|
SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Paint /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1110891261 Message started by robz on 03/15/05 at 04:54:21 |
|
Title: Paint Post by robz on 03/15/05 at 04:54:21 I have a 1987 Savage and wanted to touch up some of the paint work. Its a dark blue (sort of purple!). Does anyone know the Suzuki reference number for this particular paint colur. Also any websites where I could order a small quantity. ??? Thanks Rob |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by DangMan on 03/15/05 at 08:00:33 Hi Try to look at this table, there is a lot of colors on it ! http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/300_0271/color_table/color_table.bmp |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by gitarzan on 03/15/05 at 08:49:22 http://www.color-rite.com/ I just bought a touch up pen for about $15. |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by sluggo on 03/15/05 at 12:07:21 gitarzan wrote:
and when he learns how to write he'll be allowed to use it. ;D |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by gitarzan on 03/15/05 at 12:54:54 sluggo wrote:
I already scribbled on the wall. :-[ |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by sluggo on 03/15/05 at 13:53:53 [quote author=gitarzan link=board=RubberSideDown;num=1110891261;start=0#4 date=03/15/05 at 12:54:54] I already scribbled on the wall. :-[/quote] i bet it was a dirty word the the K turned around backwardz. 8) |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by Greg_650 on 03/20/05 at 09:05:54 I just ordered an aerosol can of "Suzuki Y7G Dark British Racing Green (4945)" for $30.95. That's supposed to be the color for the 2000 models That will be my touch up for the rear fender and the holes that I need to fill. Should arrive in 2-5 days. Here is the site (I think Susan found it first).... Paint (https://secure.cmagic.com/TMC_Paint/catalog//logoff.php?osCsid=686181164c495a4ece0608424d5209e1) |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by Greg_650 on 03/25/05 at 12:31:55 Update on paint order.... http://home.comcast.net/~gmdinusa/GreenPaint02web.jpg Now, who can tell me if it is possible to use a fiber type body filler to fill 6 of the holes in the rear fender? Will it crack and fall out? Do I need some kind of screen backing? Why do I ask? I am installing these in the 2 rear fender holes.... http://home.comcast.net/~gmdinusa/RearSignals02web.jpg And even though this doesn't involve paint, while I have the rear wheel off, I am going to install these.... http://home.comcast.net/~gmdinusa/RearBrakes01web.jpg |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by woodworker on 03/25/05 at 13:57:20 Greg; If you want to use a fibreglas body filler, use the type with the long strands of fibreglas in it. It wouldn't hurt to back it up with some fibreglas mat/cloth on the inside of the fender. A question for you: Are the windscreens on your bikes (as shown in Paladin's gallery) the "National Deflectors"? |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by gitarzan on 03/25/05 at 19:39:54 I want to paint the chomed battery box and toolkit cover. I think the "big chrome brick" detracts from the 650's lines and engine. Should I just clean it real good and paint over the chrome? Or wet-sand it with ultra superfine? How about priming? Needed or not on chrome? |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by WD on 03/25/05 at 19:49:31 Git, either sand the chrome off or buy Por-15 tinted clear for chrome...nothing else sticks well to chrome. Plan to throw away the belt cover too...bleah!!! :P For Greg, definitely back the holes before you putty them. Fiberglass or window screen or hardware cloth, or such. FYI, putty does NOT stick well to epoxy or most fiberglass resins. Oreder a West Systems sampler kit...good stuff! Something noone remembers is that no matter how pricey it is, rattle can paint doesn't hold up well... -WD |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by klx650sm2002 on 03/26/05 at 01:30:45 Greg, EBC nice I use nothing else. Clive W :D |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by bobo383 on 03/26/05 at 06:07:57 Re paint: I've shot several bikes and car parts with DuPont Nason Acrylic Enamel (yellow label). It holds up well. Of course the painting is the shortest part. Smoothing and prep take forever. The paint store can match any color you have. |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by Greg_650 on 03/26/05 at 06:14:45 woodworker wrote:
Honestly, I don't know. I bought one of them from a guy that was changing the one on his Honda and the other one was just hanging on a hook at bike shop. The price was right for both of them. But I never saw any packaging on either. They work fairly well, but they are "deflectors" and not windshields. Good for keeping yellow jackets out of your shirt :o |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by Greg_650 on 03/26/05 at 06:32:21 WD wrote:
Cool. The guy at the parts store told me that for holes 3/8" diameter or so, that backing up the holes wouldn't be necessary if I was generous on both sides of the hole. He told me not to use fiberglass filler (which I've never tried) but to use regular Bondo instead. Hmmm. Well, I tested my "rattle can" paint. It may not be as good as the professional sprayer type, but I assure you that this Color Rite paint is the best "rattle can" that I've ever used. First out of the nozzle, there was no splatter and the fan pattern was really smooth and even. I used an old coffee can and the color is an awesome match, right down to the meta-flake specks....so, bottom line: it may be pricey, but it is good stuff. I was impressed. http://home.comcast.net/~gmdinusa/GreenPaint03web.jpg |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by Greg_650 on 03/26/05 at 06:36:02 klx650sm2002 wrote:
I've had good luck with them too. My rear wheel is off and they'll be changed today. |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by Greg_650 on 03/26/05 at 06:50:24 bobo383 wrote:
Yep, and as I'm living in an apartment with a rented garage, it's not like I have an air compressor. I need to rent a disk sander today. The little wire retainers and the hoop that hooks the pillon seat need to come off. I want a solo seat, but I still want to use the stock rear fender. So what I want to do is to re-shape the fender with Bondo and round out the flat areas. I have already decided where I'm going to move the rectifier....it's gonna be painted black and mounted on the back or bottom of the battery box. I'm gonna be up to my knees in Bondo dust before I'm done, and thanks to all, for your "brainstorming" :P |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by bobo383 on 03/26/05 at 08:07:58 We'll be watching for an "after" photo |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by Greg_650 on 03/27/05 at 06:14:00 bobo383 wrote:
Here is step one. Removed rear pillon mounts and wire clips. Cost = new side grinder and sanding disks, $40. http://home.comcast.net/~gmdinusa/RearFender01_1web.jpg Here is the end of first day... Cost = Bondo and emory cloth, $25 http://home.comcast.net/~gmdinusa/RearFender02web.jpg Lots of sanding and shaping to do today 8) |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by woodworker on 03/27/05 at 08:57:37 Greg; I know this is after the fact, but from what I gather from your photos, you decided to leave the bondo on overnight before touching it. It'll be hard as rock to shape and form. The best time to get at the bondo for shaping and forming is right after it starts to kick-over(much easier and much less dust!). Final sanding can be done anytime after it is cured. Just a thought for next time. |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by Greg_650 on 03/27/05 at 09:23:17 It'll be okay. I just had no more time last night, and infact I ran out of hardener (I like how they do that) and ran out to get more. I have plenty of 60 grit paper, anyway. |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by WD on 03/27/05 at 13:33:40 As someone who has been using body filler most of my life... 1. You can knockoff the majority of the excess filler as soon as at tacks up enough for a surform file to cut without clogging or skipping. 2. Let the remaining putty sit AT LEAST 3 days before final sanding. Scuff the top off with 60 grit twice a day. You want the shrinkage and outgassing done before you final sand and start the primer/glaze coat process. 3. Make sure you coat the putty with an etching primer for maximum adhesion. 4. Rustoleum auto primer over the etching prime. Fills the micro pits better than lacquer based primers. Is lacquer safe, gives a smooth base for the topcoat to adhere to. 5. Wet sand the primer to 600 grit before you add color coat. 2 dust coats of color. Wet sand with 400 or 600, add a "wet coat" of color. Make sure you use a clear over the color. Have fun. Take your time. When you finish the fender top, but preferably, before you finish the fender top, buy a can of under coating or bed liner spray (Wal-mart stuff is fine). Will protect the topcoats from junk hitting the underside of the fender. Lessens the impact and lowers the chance of the force cracking the paint. -WD |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by Greg_650 on 03/28/05 at 05:20:06 WD - Thanks for the tips. As someone that has only used Bondo a couple time, they are appreciated. I started to buy one of the forming files, but didn't. Alot of sanding.... Question: why in the hell do they make the print on the back of the Bondo can so small? Here's where I had to leave it...the spouse wanted me to quit for Easter dinner anyway :P I just threw it back together to get a look. http://home.comcast.net/~gmdinusa/SoloSeat01web.jpg |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by cphilip on 03/28/05 at 09:38:09 I normaly use 80 grit on a sanding block to knock off the heavy parts. Then step down to 200 0r so when it gets close then quickly over to 600 grit finaly to feather in the edges and blend it all in. Final sand with 1200 or so. Primer will fill 600 grit or less scratches. Don't be afraid to refill if you got a low spot. Spend lots of time blending in where the bondo leaves and metal starts. Nice smooth transition or it will pop out and show like a sore thumb when the final paint gets on. If you want I can shoot that thing for you Greg. What paint you got? If you really want to I will shoot the base/clear you need if you go match the base. I got clear coat here enough to do it for you. |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by Susan on 03/28/05 at 12:04:54 This is a great thread. I'm about to do some painting too. Can you use any clear coat over the regular paint or is it better to get a special type? |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by cphilip on 03/28/05 at 12:18:27 Not sure what you mean by regular paint.... The regular paint on Savages is base coat clear coat if that helps. But normaly its risky trying to paint over enamel or something without sealing it out. You can scuff it up if its in good shape and blend out any chips in the paint, then paint it with epoxy primer and then base coat and clear coat it. |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by Susan on 03/28/05 at 12:24:10 cphilip wrote:
I have several projects requiring paint. One is a custom piece I've built that goes where the pillion seat was -- it is a fiberglass piece; I'm also painting my helmet to match the bike; and then if I get ambitious there's a scratch on the bike, I'd like to touch up. What does this mean: "But normaly its risky trying to paint over enamel or something without sealing it out."? Thanks! |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by cphilip on 03/28/05 at 12:35:41 Well as we learned here... Helmet manufacturers use Base Coat Clear Coat a lot. Some paints will react or deter bonding with other paints surfaces. So scuffing them and then Epoxy priming makes certain the base coat will not react with whatever is down there first. Mainly its done "just in case" as you don't want to find out later it's going to let lose. Its an insurance step is all. Normaly you just do not put base coat onto just anything. You put it onto a known compatable primer. Several of them are. If not most of them. Sandable automotives as well as Epoxy primers are. I perfer Epoxy primer. Although it does not fill quite as well it bonds very hard and gives a tougher surface to apply the base coat too. Its a bit more of a paint to work with but it does a real good job so I opt for it. Just as if you were stripping it to bare metal you would want to prime it. Same thing if your not stripping to bare metal. You prep the old surface for flaws, scuff it up so it will bond with the primer and then prime it. And then proceed as normal from there. That Helmet you should not have to prime it. It should work with just scuffing and base clear. The bike it depends on whats on there. If its the normal factory base clear you can probably get away with not priming. Just scuff pad it and color it and clear it. Get a 3m "red' scuff pad. It will leave enough scratches that the Primer, color will fill. Too much and too deep scratching and it shows through. Most things will not show if they are finer than 600 grit sand paper will leave. So normaly you sand to finer than 600 grit. Like finish sand it just a bit with 1200 or something. The scuff pad does this all very well on old paint surface or on old clear coat. And the pad last for a long time. |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by WD on 03/28/05 at 15:38:26 Krylon or Rustoleum Crystal Clear are compatable with the stock paint. DO NOT use Duplicolor or Plasticote (lacquers) over the stock paint. Lacquer"eats" enamel. The rule is lacquer over lacquer, enamel over lacquer or enamel, urethanes over SAME type of urethanes. -WD |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by Greg_650 on 03/30/05 at 05:22:14 cphilip wrote:
Thanks for the helpful hints....as it turns out and because I have less experience than patience...I have applied the Bondo, then removed too much, applied the Bondo, then removed too much, repeat.... That was another reason that I put the fender away last Sunday. I kept removing too much. I think that I also learned how not to leave "pores" or pockets in the Bondo so that as you sand it down, you don't find a hole that has to be refilled. That happened a few times. The biggest thing is covering the flat spots for the rectifier and the pillon mount (I cut off the front pillon mount) while keeping a smooth radius on the fender. Also, without the side rails, it appears that the rear fender is slightly concave on the sides, so in filling those front 6 holes there needs to be a smooth layer along most of the sides. Thanks for the offer to shoot the fender. I'll keep hammering away it myself unless I get hopelessly lost. Like most things that I've done, I may not know it all, but I'll work at it until I get it right. I was very pleased with the match for the paint (which I got from Susan's site). You can see the color above. My biggest concern is whether I'll be able to blend the new paint with a small portion of the old paint on the fender tip where my name is painted. That is the part protected under the cardboard and duct tape. If there is a small difference, I'm hoping that it'll be disguised by a visual "break" along where the taillight and turnsignals mount. Once again thanks for any thoughts and hints...they are all noted. |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by Greg_650 on 03/30/05 at 19:25:40 Another question?????????? or two????? So the Bondo requires 3 days for curing and "outgasing" and final sanding? It doesn't say that on the can, but it's true? And an etching primer? I haven't seen that on any can labels. I've seen "sandable" but not etching. Explain? I'm a "newbie" body man, in case you wonder (but I'm a quick learner :) |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by WD on 03/30/05 at 21:24:41 It doesn't specifically reguire 3 days, however, plastic body filler was invented for the body shop industry. Fill, spray, out the door. Who cares what it looks like in a week, let alone a year. ::) There is a reason I still use lead for some repairs... Etching primer has an acid base. It "eats" into the substrate. I have had excellent results with Plasti-kote brand, part number 470 grey. I get it at Pep Boys. You can get similar from Autozone, Schucks (aw shucks, we ain't got it) part of the Checker/Schucks/Kragen parts empire, and where you are, GI Joes. Pep Boys carries Plasti-kote, the others carry Dupli-color. Same idea. Next? Glad to help, I love doing body and paint. -WD |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by rkutzner on 03/31/05 at 18:07:25 Hey guys, is the battery box plastic or metal? If plastic then Krylon Fusion works wonders on plastic...it 'moleculurly bonds' to plastic. Never chips off of fender flares or my quad/dirt bike plastics. |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by cphilip on 03/31/05 at 19:29:32 those new plastic paints are good.... but painting plastic is age old technology. Well... not that old but old enough to be perfected. The problem with those paints is your limited by color selection they make them in. And they make no metalics in those and they are VERY limited. But they do work because they incorporate chemicals in them that have long been used in body work on plastics. Painting plastic parts in body work with matching paints has been done for years. One product I use with regularity and great sucsess is called "Bulldog". It's a plastic adheasion promoter and elastisizer that you spray on first and let flash off and then you proceed as normal with your base and clear coat. You can see that T5 I did. It has mucho plastic parts up on the headset. All done in the very same Metalic flake black and clear coat. Its been used for years on bumpers and plastic trim on cars...etc... Simple and easy to do. The stuff works great. A quart lasts forever. It has to be sprayed at a lower pressure than paint. About 30psi but it covers well and flashes off in less than 30 minutes and is ready for color then. |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by Greg_650 on 04/01/05 at 05:20:30 cphilip wrote:
Okay, okay...what actually does "flashes" mean? |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by cphilip on 04/01/05 at 07:43:10 Not maybe what it sounds like.... No fire involved unless of course you are into that kinda thing! ;D Just dry fast. Wait till its a bit past tacky stage is all it means. And dependent upon weather, temp and humidity that is going to vary. Basicaly its dry but not really worried about if it's cured all the way in this case for this product. Note: you still want to scuff pad the plastic parts before you apply this but do not scuff pad this before you apply the Primer/Paint. I buy this stuff in a Quart because it comes out cheaper. But it does come in a rattle can as well http://www.raptortechnique.com/images/paint02.jpg |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by Greg_650 on 04/01/05 at 08:03:42 rkutzner wrote:
The battery box has a plastic top and the rest is chromed steel.... |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by Greg_650 on 04/01/05 at 08:07:47 cphilip wrote:
Okay. That's kinda what I quessed. I figured that is was close to being "dry". BTW - I also scuffed the clear coat on my engine cases before I applied the ceramic engine paint. That plus actually baking the paint, made it very tough. |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by Greg_650 on 04/02/05 at 16:13:39 Update....the fender looks deeper because of the filler that contours over the pillon and rectifier mounts. I tapered the radius under the rear of the rider seat and between the frame tubes. No more holes except for the ones for the signals. The last primer coat after wet sanding..... The first base coat of the green to dry over night.... http://home.comcast.net/~gmdinusa/2RearFender01web.jpg This rookie used almost a quart of Bondo and most of it became powder on the floor ::) |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by cphilip on 04/02/05 at 17:30:26 Lookin good Greg. Is that your name thing you got taped off up there? More Bondo on the floor aint such a bad thing. Its like sex... better too much than too little! |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by Paladin on 04/02/05 at 17:54:24 Greg_650 wrote:
|
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by Greg_650 on 04/02/05 at 19:06:06 Paladin wrote:
Thanks. It was tough and I challenged myself more than I thought to do the job....tomorrow I will wet sand and paint some more. From now on I have more respect for the guys that do this stuff on custom bikes to be sure. It takes a lot of "feel" to do it....you gotta look at it from all kinds of angles, and your fingers have to be real accurate. You got to just sense shape and it isn't easy. Not sure if I've done it well enough, yet. If I don't like it, I'll redo. Tomorrow I wet sand and repaint. That will tell. |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by Greg_650 on 04/02/05 at 19:08:56 cphilip wrote:
Yes, my name is taped off. I hope to feather the paint and then clear coat that paint too. If the base doesn't match well enough, I'll regrettably remove it and paint over it. I told myself that too....just glad that a quart was enough :o) |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by WD on 04/02/05 at 19:21:30 Greg, here's another little "trade secret" to make sure your putty work is acceptable and ready for paint. Ask your wife for a hand sized piece of nylon stocking material. Put it on your hand like a mitten, rubber band it over yor wrist. Place that hand over the piece you want to inspect. Close your eyes and rub your hand over the panel or spot repair. The nylon lets your hand "slip/glide" without getting skin oils all over the part. By closing your eyes, you feel blemishes that your eyes would cause your hand to miss. Trust me, it works. As far as Bondo dust goes, 90% or more of the wet putty put on had better wind up on the floor as dust. Body fillers, even the newer formulations, are for less than 1/16th inch, preferably less than 1/64th inch, skim repairs. They work in thicker layers, but are more fragile. Polyester and talcum powder with red or other dye to show consistency. Think contaminated fiberglass resin, without the glass reinforcing strands. If the green sections don't transition well, instead of sanding your name off, mask them only. Cut out the tape around them and give the entire green section a pass or two. Clear it, pop the tape off, clear it again. No biggie, just a few extra steps. The way it is raining a couple hours north of you, I hope you painted the parts in the house. I watch the Portland news, you've been getting wet too. Come summer, the paint may try to "gray out". Bomb can paints and humidity do not get along very well. At the very least, cure the paint in the front room, not the garage. Saves alot of grief later inthe year. -WD |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by Greg_650 on 04/03/05 at 07:23:15 WD wrote:
See, the name was painted at a rally so therefore it was never clear coated. Seems to be a good paint, and impervious to gas or wax (my spouse has some on her tank)...but that was done almost a couple years ago, and thought the new green paint seems to be an excellent match, I wonder if there isn't a slight difference in color. Maybe the old paint is faded a little bit, I don't know. So the first thing I'll do is uncover the taped area and check it this morning. If it is good, then I'll feather the paint around the area and tape it off again. Like I did with the primer. At this point, I'm up to 1000 grit paper. I have some 1500, and eventually I'll move on to the polishing compound. Oh yeah, my painting stopped yesterday when the weather went from sunny and breezy to cool and rainy. I do know that the clear coat will only be done on a dry day. Nothing worse than cloudy clear coat. Oh yeah...another decision....after seeing the underside of the fender which is routinely sand blasted while riding, I'm thinking about using an under coating there. |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by bobo383 on 04/03/05 at 08:25:56 I appreciate you guys going thru all this on the forum. I've done some bodywork, but have had no mentor (old-head, whatever you call it) to educate me in any way on the subject. I'm looking back (in my head) as I read and noticing why some of my stuff looked great and some sucked. Thanks again. |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by Greg_650 on 04/03/05 at 10:05:51 I'm fighting the "sucked" issue right now 8) |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by Greg_650 on 04/03/05 at 19:16:42 Here's an update...and all of you guys with a good eye, can probably see where I ended up with a flat spot in my Bondo work. As Cphillip said, it becomes more evident as you go. But actually it isn't too bad for a newbie. I think that if you weren't in the forum, that you might just think I had a screwed up rear fender. Not ;D Just a dry run. Still needs sanding and clear coat. Nothing is bolted tight. I put the lights there because I'm really kinda "anal" with this stuff. It will soon be my solo Savage. http://home.comcast.net/~gmdinusa/RearFender05.jpg Now, I still have the issue of matching paint and then the clear coat....one newbie step at a time..... |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by bobo383 on 04/03/05 at 19:47:02 Looking good |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by WD on 04/04/05 at 01:20:37 Looks to be coming along nicely. Wish I knew how to import a thumbs up smiley from the truck forum, you've earned one. You want to make the shocks "pop"? Paint the eyes and acorn nuts black so the shocks appear to float. Put the shocks back on so the adjusters aren't visible. Amazing transformation. For your solo seat, are you going to just recover the stock foam or go another route? I can tell you from experience, recovering the factory pan isn't worth the hassle, no matter what you do, it looks awful. -WD |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by Greg_650 on 04/04/05 at 05:18:05 Actually, Suggo sent me a link for a solo seat...a springer. 8) |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by Red_Wine on 04/04/05 at 11:58:23 Looking good, Greg.... Just keep the pics coming... ;D RW |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by Greg_650 on 04/04/05 at 12:11:22 The fender is just hanging by 2 bolts and the rear axle isn't even through the wheel, but after spending the better part of 2 weekends in Bondo powder and paint, I had to get an up to date look at this. Another challenge is the wiring. There are 2 nuts under the fender for the rectifier mount. When I applied the Bondo, I had bolts in those holes to keep them from getting filled. I plan to bend a piece of tubing as a wire way to carry the tail/turn signal wires under the fender. It can be clamped using the 2 bolt holes that I saved. Then I'm going to try to bring the wires out of the cut-out on the left fender side by the ignition switch (clearance for the belt guard). I can bundle the ignition switch wires together with the lighing in some wire wrap....which is what contains all my wiring anyway. Now, the rectifier under the battery box? That means that I need to shorten the wires from the alternator and lengthen the ones to the battery.... |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by Greg_650 on 04/10/05 at 19:12:42 I can't let this topic fade into the salvage yard yet.... I tried to buff out my paint today and "feather" my old custom lettering on the fender with the new base coat. It ain't happenin' :( I had to buff all of my lettering off the fender (1500 grit wet), and what is sad is that under my old clear coat, the British green color is the same. But there is no way the paint will clearcoat and look right....so the lettering had to go. It cost me $100, too. Sadly too...or newbie ignorant...if I had sanded all of it down to start with, I would have had enough paint for the entire fender. Now, I just finished making my order from Color Rite for more paint. Next weekend, I should be able to finish the darn fender....at least it is all buffed out now. BTW - For rattle can paint, this Color Rite stuff isn't like any Rustoleum. It has a really good fan pattern and doesn't spit or splatter. It also dries quick and doesn't run. So, for us amateurs, it is good stuff. Just follow the directions. |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by WD on 04/10/05 at 23:18:11 There is definitely something to be said for quality bomb can nozzles. I know Duplicolor and Plastikote have adjustable spray pattern nozzles, makes life MUCH easier than the standard WD40-esque spray nozzle. Too bad about having to sand off your name, it looked really good on the end of the fender. There are some very talented pinstripers and airbrush artists in the greater Portland area, surely one of them can do a comparable job. I know it won't be the same as the Freedom Fest (I assume the Key West one?) lettering, but, then again, a new home calls for new artwork. -WD |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by Greg_650 on 04/11/05 at 05:12:32 I think that I was just stubborn about the name, and I really knew all along that I couldn't save it. Oh well. |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by Greg_650 on 04/15/05 at 13:53:26 Update....the fender is buffed out real well, and my new cans of paint and clearcoat arrived today. I think tomorrow is supposed to be sunny, so the humidity may be just right to finish this part of the project. |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by WD on 04/15/05 at 19:13:59 Rub it in...pouring here. -WD |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by Greg_650 on 04/16/05 at 06:47:22 WD wrote:
Nope....the weather "persons" lied as it started raining after I made that post...it is raining today. I am learning the truth about the rain in Portland, now. However, unlike the southeast the rain is different and here the rain doesn't stop people from riding. So, I'm gonna try and see if I can do some painting too :) |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by WD on 04/16/05 at 19:47:11 Are you growing gills and moss yet? ;D I need scuba gear to get to my truck... -WD |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by sluggo on 04/16/05 at 20:00:38 sunday is opening day at the racetrack, we already put out the sign explaining rain out policy. i hate it when we wash out opening day.. i'll keep my fingers crossed for good wx.. doubtfull. |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by Greg_650 on 04/17/05 at 06:57:42 WD wrote:
Nope. I'm growing webbed toes 8) |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by Greg_650 on 04/17/05 at 07:16:30 sluggo wrote:
On a positive note again. I have surprised the snot out of myself. I have actually created a paint job that is better than I expected...this is my first serious attempt too, and it has only taken 3 weekends :) My paint job is not as good a bodyshop guy could do by a long shot, but for a newbie, it will work. As hard as I tried there was always something that got into the paint as I sprayed in a closed garage (cough, cough). You don't realize all the crap that you inhale until you are trying to paint...and then there it is sticking out of your finish. But thanks to Susan and her Color Rite link, I at least was working with a product that exceded my skills. I finally got a good buffed out color coat (2 cans later), and was able to get a final color coat with a minimum of UFOs in it. Then following the directions and waiting for the "flash" time, I started the clearcoats....I got 5 of them on there. Wow. I now have a deep metalic green finish, and darn it, I think it looks nicer than my tank and from fender. It is so deep that everything reflects as you move around it, and the color goes from bright green to black depending on the angle. I am absolutely amazed at the result, and today I can move on to other stuff. In a week, I may take some polishing compound to it, but I really don't want to touch it anymore. For a newbie bodyman with a rattle can in a rented garage, this Color Rite paint ROCKS. |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by Paladin on 04/17/05 at 07:35:57 Isn't that a fantastic feeling -- "My God, I did it and it came out RIGHT!" You have always admired those who could do such marvelous stuff -- and then you find that you are *also* one of those marvelous guys. You want to walk down the street and grab people and show them -- "See! See what I did! I did GOOD!" We are those people. You did GOOD! You are an inspiration for those of us still hesitant. |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by Greg_650 on 04/17/05 at 07:56:20 Paladin wrote:
I know, I took it in the house to show the spouse. I sat it on the dining room floor and didn't stop talking about it for 30 minutes.... Quote:
That is what I'm trying to do...without boasting, mind you. I look at it and I see flaws, every one of them. I know they are there...I know my limits and abilities, and they are in the paint job. But also, I know that with patience, a little research, and hard work that we can do new things with decent results, if we try. ....all I'm doing here is passing on what I learned so that others will feel less hesitant...and trust me, it wasn't easy passing that point of "no return" when I first put my side grinder to the fender. I just kinda closed my eyes and jumped in. ::) |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by Greg_650 on 04/24/05 at 18:45:04 More.... The fender and the electrics work, but I have it all apart. Wow, when you get down to the schematic level it becomes a challenge.... I am moving all the connections that are normally under the seat, up under the tank. It takes wire and time, and the terminal connectors are getting changed. A lot of soldering and crimping... Right now all the connections to the tail and turn signals are done. They are all working. Here is the present condition...and did I mention that today I turned "double nickels"? Yep, the spouse has been letting me do anything I want...including all day in the garage 8) http://home.comcast.net/~gmdinusa/05GMD02web.jpg |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by Kropatchek on 04/25/05 at 01:06:50 Looking nice and Happy Birthday :D Greetz Kropatchek ;D ;D ;D |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by WD on 04/25/05 at 02:31:21 Looks real good. Happy B-day. Wish my bike looked even 1/2 that clean...oh well. Someone has to ride a roach bike, guess I'm elected. -WD |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by klx650sm2002 on 04/25/05 at 03:28:05 Yes happy birthday Greg. from Clive W :D |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by Red_Wine on 04/25/05 at 13:25:40 Happy Birthday Greg, It's starting to rain in otherwise dry and riding-loving Chile ... :( Take care, RW |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by Savage_Rob on 04/25/05 at 13:57:14 Happy Birthday Greg! |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by Greg_650 on 04/26/05 at 13:26:11 Thanks to you all.... I hope to be fitting the solo seat this weekend. I got those new springs and now all I need is the front mount. Essentially what I did to the wiring was to lengthen all of the tail light (all 4) wiring from under the tank to behind the license plate lamp where I put the new bullet connectors. That meant 5 new hot and 4 ground wires. All soldered connections with heat shrink tubing, etc. Then all these wires go through wire wrap. There will be visible runs of wire wrap....but hopefully they will be tastefully routed. I just want to get rid of the spider web of crap under the seat. What is also interesting is that in peeling back the wire harness I have found spare wires and some connectors have extra wires that connect to nothing. Makes me wonder about whether the harness is generic (for an Intruder, maybe too) or has wires for options not available in the US. Hmmm. |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by Mr 650 on 04/26/05 at 13:48:02 Looks good from here, Happy Birthday G-man! (late) :) I drug mine out Wed. and rode to "Bike Night" at Joe's w/ new carb and 'Trapp. Sounds great. I tried out the new Grex flip-face helmet and it will do, but it has more wind noise and no snap-on shade like the RJ-Air. I have been looking for a real touring rig and the Pacific Coast or an FJR are the current contenders. Damif there was not an '89 PC parked side by side w/ a '02 FJR! I spent awhile eyeballing the seat height and bars when the guys came back and answered my questions and let me sit on them! I think the PC is all I really need, and it has a little lower seat height of them but I was surprised and pleased to see the FJR's ride position is very good/comparable, not as radical as I imagined ( not to mention that 145HP ;D). Thanks Tom and Dave of the MSRC! |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by Greg_650 on 05/01/05 at 20:06:38 The Savage electrical harness. Close to the way it should be without a spiderweb of connectors. All devices are connected directly to the harness. There is a connector at each device and the harness is one piece. No crossovers and splices. I basically had to route the wires for their connection side. Took about 32 hours. A couple things to mention....with the springer seat, I wanted to move the fuses. So now they are mounted under the coil where they can be reached from the front of the tank. BTW - The blue wires on the left side are the connectors for the tach. http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b277/gmdinusa/05GMDWiring02_1web.jpg Here is where I hid the rectifier and regulator....behind the engine, under the battery... http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b277/gmdinusa/05GMDWiring02web-1.jpg Here is the CDI unit. Had to solder splice the wires. The cable wrap is not the split kind. It a solid tube so all cables were reworked. And everything still works too ;D http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b277/gmdinusa/CDI01web.jpg Here is the infamous double diode, exposed from the harness. Normally there are 3 wires here. This one connection on the diode is for the nuetral switch and lamp. The one that is missing is for the side stand relay and switch, which is now grounded at the extra bolt tappped in the frame. http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b277/gmdinusa/Diode01web.jpg Here is the starter relay. The small black wire on the starter lead goes to the CDI unit. Makes me wonder if this means the CDI unit senses when the engine is being started and advances the ignition timing accordingly. http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b277/gmdinusa/StarterRelay01web.jpg Time to start mounting the seat.... |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by Greg_650 on 05/06/05 at 16:04:37 The picture is the first assembly without paint and refinements. I had to offset the mounts because the frame and seat mounts aren't the same distances apart. And I wanted to lower the rear springs, too. This shot shows the glass beaded steel parts on their first fit. A little easier to see without paint. The front seat mount will still mount over the tank bushings and the front of the seat is higher than stock. (The rear will compress when I get on). I need to shorten bolts and threads and use some flathead screws for more clearance.... I may make a leather bib for under the seat on the frame, but I don't know, yet. The next picture will be the completed bike. I may call this my "Feather Bed" Savage 8) http://home.comcast.net/~gmdinusa/05GMDSeat01web.jpg You can see the air cleaner from the rear :) http://home.comcast.net/~gmdinusa/05GMDSeat04web.jpg Front seat mount...gonna paint today. http://home.comcast.net/~gmdinusa/05GMDSeat02web.jpg |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by Greg_650 on 05/08/05 at 06:25:09 Where to put the fuses so that they are easy to reach and out of the way... http://home.comcast.net/~gmdinusa/Fuses01web.jpg |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by Paladin on 05/08/05 at 08:32:46 Where did you put the horn? |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by Greg_650 on 05/08/05 at 10:21:17 The horn has been up under the lower triple tree for a while now. It and it's wimpy sound face forward :D |
|
Title: Re: Paint.... Post by Greg_650 on 05/17/05 at 10:36:39 Update on this design... http://home.comcast.net/~gmdinusa/05GMDSeat01web.jpg It won't work. The springs are mounted as the picture on the web site, but there is no flexibility with the mounting of these springs. The springs want to bend forward and down while the seat wants to pivot rearward and down. The end result is similar to a triangle design with the rider weight on the top of 2 legs, and the seat was absolutely rigid. Does that make sense? The mounting is so rigid that when I tried to make the springs compress, the "Made in China" welded seat mounts broke off. Completely. Then the seat would compress, with the springs "floating" loosely under the seat...and then I discovered the other truth...the springs aren't strong enough to support a 200 lb. rider anyway. Conclusion: Don't buy springs like this. Back to the drawing board.... |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by klx650sm2002 on 05/17/05 at 10:51:43 Hey Greg That pic of Your breather filter is the one that inspired me to go upward and foreward with the filter on KLX. It fits in a small gap between the tank,fork leg,indicator,rad and rad scoop. Thanks for the idea. Clive W :D |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by Greg_650 on 05/17/05 at 11:21:03 klx650sm2002 wrote:
You are welcome. Now I have to redo so that I can mount my coil springs under the seat. They are strong enough for my weight, but since they are wider, my present brackets will need to be modified...again. |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by Greg_650 on 05/28/05 at 11:36:40 Well, many of you remember this picture...the topic concerned moving our Savages to the Pacific Northwest last December. It looks like that topic has been dormant too long and has been purged. No matter...here it is again. That was the last time that our Savages actually ran... http://home.comcast.net/~gmdinusa/BikeTrailer01web.jpg Well, I'm happy to state that my Raask pipe has finally awakened after a long winter's nap. Fresh gas, full charge on the battery, new synthetic oil and about 6 revolutions on the engine with the choke out. Boom, boom, boom...around the apartemnt complex I went ::) New pictures later. Time to go back and wax and shine. |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by bobo383 on 05/28/05 at 12:51:10 Love those trees, man. Good to hear you're running again! |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by WD on 05/28/05 at 21:07:54 Greg, I've got a couple hundred 3 inch seat springs if you need to tinker... might even have a pair of 4 inchers. Made in China seat is pretty fragile I gather...want me to see if I've got any good USA made pans floating around? My preference is an old Farm-all side seat style seat pan, although, they are tricky to upholster. John Deere or 8/9N Ford pans cut down nicely too... -WD |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by Greg_650 on 05/29/05 at 06:04:36 bobo383 wrote:
Man, those are NC trees. Usually those are some scrubby old pine. You wanna see some real trees? You gotta see these puppies here in the northwest...Spruce and Douglas Fir. |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by Greg_650 on 05/29/05 at 06:25:04 WD wrote:
I think the seat is okay. Yeah, the mounting studs for the springs broke off the seat. What can I say, I was trying to follow a budget and the online ad said nothing about made in China....but it is the adapter type of mount that I need that is the problem. I have 3 inch coil springs like Sluggo, but (#1) the springs are too tall on a Savage to mount them directly on the frame, and (#2) the spring mount spacings on the seat and the frame are a different distance apart. So, all in all I need some mounts to offset the springs below the frame about an inch and to adapt different spacing. Unfortunately too, I made a double dog leg kind of mount Friday at work...government work that is....and when all was done, I pulled out my tape to check it, and "SOB!" I made the stupid thing an inch too wide. How in the hell, I scribed a line in the wrong place, I don't know. It went in the scrap bin and I'm back to the drawing board. I need to find a local little shop that does cash jobs :P |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by Greg_650 on 05/30/05 at 10:29:52 Ready to go. I'll finish the springer setup later. I need a fender bib to match the tank... http://www.digimaging.net/images/999_05GMD07web1000.jpg |
|
Title: Re: Paint Post by Greg_650 on 01/21/07 at 08:38:59 Looks like my photos are gone from the post. I'll fix it soon. |
|
SuzukiSavage.com » Powered by YaBB 2.2! YaBB © 2000-2007. All Rights Reserved. |