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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Technical Documents/Reference >> Various and Sundry Tips and Tricks /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1101159893 Message started by Jon on 08/26/04 at 15:45:09 |
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Title: Various and Sundry Tips and Tricks Post by Jon on 08/26/04 at 15:45:09 > I used a blow dryer. Good sticker tip! Now, I've had the horrible experience of marching out to buy a minty used bike only to find that the guy, just minutes before, had scrubbed road tar off the pipes for me with an SOS pad. Do you know what steel wool does to chrome?!! :o If there are burned-on bugs and tar spots, use a cleaner wax like Mequiars (maroon bottle). It will remove the junk without scratching. If the chrome has surface rust, scrub it with an old toothbrush and Turtle Wax Chrome Polish. The rust will disappear. If you have a blued header, Blue-Away used gently does a good job removing it. ------------------- Don't use Armor-All on the seat. You will slide onto the tank during hard braking and suffer a voice change. Don't use Armor-All on the tires. The bike 'will' go down in a corner. ------------------- Motorcycle screws are power-tightened on the assembly line. If you are going to own a motorcycle, buy an impact screwdriver. It's absolutely mandatory to prevent mashed screw heads. ------------------- If the drive-belt squeaks, rub a little bees wax on it. That's what the Harley shops apply for $65. |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by Mr 650 on 08/27/04 at 10:26:59 Quote:
Don't put it on the tread! However you can squirt a little on a rag, just damp, then you can smear some on the sidewall. Don't squirt so much it runs! It looks good and helps keep those little cracks away. 8) |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by Jon on 08/27/04 at 11:01:27 > However you can squirt a little on a rag, just damp, then you can smear some on the sidewall. But, if you ride in the rain the stuff will make it's way onto the tread. I recently scooped up a GS500 rider who had that experience. Be careful. |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by Mr 650 on 08/27/04 at 15:14:51 Revision. Never apply Armor-All to your GS500's tires, then go ride the rain; Your tires might get wet and skid. ;) |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by Honda_fan on 08/27/04 at 18:30:28 Always try to tighten a frozen nut or bolt first before loosening. Kroil and Silikroil are the best penetrating oils bar none. You can get them off the web from Krano labs |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by savagethumper on 08/28/04 at 07:34:14 I've used oven cleaner on the pipes to remove rubber marks. Let the bike get hot, and spray it on. Mine wiped right off. |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by savagethumper on 08/28/04 at 07:35:58 I guess everybody knows by now, that the Savage stickers on the side of the bike, below the rider, are not clear coated. They come off pretty easy. I'm not about to tackle the tank stickers, though. |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by Honda_fan on 08/28/04 at 19:26:15 Greg_650 wrote:
Has not failed me in 25 years of working with bolts and screws. Only talking of breaking them loose not off. Yes it takes some feel and experience. |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by Mr 650 on 08/29/04 at 06:50:35 Righty tighty,Lefty loosey most of the time :D Like the little belt pulley is left hand thread. |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by Munson_kl279 on 08/30/04 at 05:35:24 Greg_650 wrote:
There is actually a tool that I just picked up from Harbor Freight that is made to do this. The kit comes with 3 philips and 3 flat head bits and you can use your 1/2" sockets with it too. When you hit it with a hammer it turns the screw or bolt out about a quarter turn at a time. It works great! |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by Jon on 08/30/04 at 14:53:03 > Yo! Harbor Freight !!! a.k.a. Harbor Fright Ever see one of their metal lathes up close? Crude as a barnacle, they 'require' a tear-down and detailing before application. Most of the handtools are adequate, although the steel tends to be soft. |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by Jon on 08/30/04 at 15:12:01 gitarzan wrote:
Harleys aren't bad, they're just overpriced. Alongside the LS650 their paint, polish, upholstery, and chrome is much better. Mechanically, since the early 90's they have been reliable. The point was that a lot of stuff sold by Fright is junk, and they are not happy to refund your money without hassling you. I'd bet that their impact screwdriver has a high failure rate from the internal spring sagging or fracturing. |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by gitarzan on 08/30/04 at 16:23:21 I know Harleys are just fine. Still, H-Ds are way low on my want list. AND I've NEVER heard of anyone having a problem with Harbor Freight and returns/refunds/exchanges. (At least around here) My $119 compressor had a bad dial after 4 months, and they took it and gave me a brand new one with no questions asked. I needed my receipt, but that's fair. Their tools aren't premium, but for what they are, they are a deal. I bought a compressor for use once or twice a year. It was a deal. And their extended warranties aren't ripping you off for an arm and a leg, they are priced fairly and reasonably. Now, Sears refused to replace a broken 4-1/2" Craftsman vise because they no longer sold a 4-1/2" vise (the mainscrew bent). They wanted to give me the lowest price ever credit on it. I told them I'd rather have the satisfaction of throwing it thru their window. I didn't of course, since I'd already tipped my hand :-X |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by Munson_kl279 on 08/31/04 at 07:12:05 I haven't ever heard of any problems with returns in my area either. The biggest thing is if you are buying a larger power tool you better buy the warranty or good luck getting it fixed. |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by Sgt_Mike on 10/27/04 at 05:42:12 I bought a hand impact screwdriver years ago from Sears. I can't count how many times this tool got me OUT of trouble. If you're going to buy one, buy quality, it may cost a little more but the benefits from quality can't be argued. You bought a quality bike, work on it with quality tools. Semper Fi & be safe. Sgt Mike |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by rkutzner on 10/28/04 at 17:16:21 savagethumper wrote:
Tackle the tank stickers. You don't need WD-40. Grab a hair dryer, put it on medium or hot and start peeling starting with your fingernails and grabbing what you can when you can. You will get it off in about 10 to 15 pieces in about 10 - 15 minutes. Then wax the spot a couple times and you'll never know it was there. Really. And I don't have much in the way of fingernails! |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by Sgt_Mike on 10/28/04 at 17:20:44 If those things are breaking cutting wire ties, there must be some thing the matter with the trouble, or you dont need vise grips when you latch on to someone or something. Hopefuly the next pair will last quite a bit longer Sgt Mike |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by lagagnon on 10/31/04 at 11:30:56 Build yourself this very simple, effective and inexpensive bike lift to make your working on the Savage a darn sight easier. http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/bikelift.htm Larry Gagnon |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by Savage_Rob on 11/13/04 at 10:45:33 lagagnon wrote:
I built one of these and it works great. I was unable to find any 4x8's but I got two lengths of 2x8 pressure treated pine and lag bolted them together. For about $20, it's a great tool. I wonder if the above tip might not make a good addition to the tech corner area.... |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by Susan on 11/13/04 at 11:52:09 Savage_Rob wrote:
Good thought. Why don't you do the honors? |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by Savage_Rob on 11/13/04 at 12:58:56 Susan wrote:
Done! |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by sluggo on 11/14/04 at 00:42:59 i built the same lift in july using the info in the link. works great. if i'm working on back of machine i push handle forward and push back to work on front. curently it's pushed forward. i'm just finishing up a radical bob. i'm using the half rear fender from my old gn 400. just debating rechrome vs paint same color as tank and front fender. i'ts a great lift and make sure the creator gets the credit for the idea |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by Kropatchek on 11/17/04 at 06:44:39 Anybody know this site? Lots of Suzuki new parts. Greetz Kropatchek ;D Example: http://www.andersonvintageparts.com/products.php?cid=2&pid=2207&image=http://www.andersonvintageparts.com/auction/5960024b40a.jpg |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by marke2571 on 12/22/04 at 07:30:33 Another sticker removing tip. This stuff works like magic, easy enough on MOST (not all) stickers to scrape off with a fingernail. Naptha (Ronson's lighter fluid or Zippo Lighter fluid). In my line of work, I have to remove old stickers. This stuff is safe for use on just about anything. It evaporates fast and doesn't leave any residue. I removed the warning label off my tank with my fingernail, naptha, and a little elbow grease. Have an old bottle with caked on sticker residue? Pour some lighter fluid on it and wipe it off with a towel! Try it for yourself. I like it better than goo-gone. --Mark |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by slavy on 03/15/05 at 07:48:52 Yes, Harbor fraight are good if You don't have any other choice. If You will use the tool once ot twice- they are OK. If You want to buy a wrench 24mm and bigger they are OK. But if You intend to use their tools on a professional bases- You better think again. The air compressor I bought from them still works thaw - knock on wood. |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by WD on 03/17/05 at 03:12:34 Easy Savage tinkering? Throw away the entire tool kit and buy some real tools. For the cost of the factory kit, you can get a full set of open end combo wrenches, a t-handled spark plug socket, a handfull of dedicated screwdrivers, good allen wrench or two. Buy a LONG 6 pointed box wrench for the rear axle nut, not a 12 point or a thin wall socket (trust me, I broke the factory wrench). The belt gauge is a joke. Set the belt so it can be twisted 90 degrees to the line of travel, without the belt skipping. Any tighter is way too tight. Solo seat conversion: stuff the voltage regulator in the air box. Mine has been that way since 99 with no problems. Wiring: tape all the factory bullet connections. Mine would get moisture in them and the bike wouldn't start. Squeaky belt: align the rear end to the drive pulley. Even then, it will squeak. Quiets it down a bit so it isn't as annoying. Tire dressing: black shoe polish! Brake fluid: Castrol GTX-LMA isn't as hydroscopic, so it holds up better. Higher flash point too... Front disc: keep it clean! My front brakes have never worked right. Course, I did pop the fork seals within 5 minutes of taking possession at the dealership... I got lots more...conserving bandwidth (okay, I'm too tired to type them all in). -WD |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by WD on 07/22/05 at 08:19:39 I popped them by dumping the clutch while smacking the throttle. As in, I WHEELIED a SAVAGE!!! Blown seals are easy to diagnose, there will be a dark "grease" line at the upper limit of fork travel. Or a lot of clear oil on the front fender and lower fork leg. Or, no compression damping when you "bounce" the forks. Easy to fix, costs about $15 for a set of seals. All seals "ooze" a small amount of oil. No matter how clean the tubes look, they aren't. Oil + dust = lapping compound. Wipe the tubes daily with naptha or WD-40 and see just how much gunk comes off. -WD |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by CHRIS on 08/02/05 at 21:27:11 Just my opinion... Impact drivers are a god sent, Craftsman tools are the best for value and warranty, foam air filter cleaner (PJ1 and others) works great for sticker removal and smells a little better than WD-40, and will never use Armour-all on any of my tires, on anything I drive, It just collects dirt and then looks bad. |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by Dynobob on 08/03/05 at 12:36:40 CHRIS wrote:
Yes, avoid using ArmorAll on anything rubber. It will make it crack. I used to put it on tires...big mistake ! I now use Maguiars Vinyl and Leather Conditioner on vinyl and rubber. It works well on tires but put nothing on the tread where it can meet the road. |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by barb36jack31 on 09/18/05 at 17:36:58 For taking decals off the tank, frame, fork head etc, cut a hardwood dowel on an angle. This gives you an clean hard edge to scrape with. It is also one that will not scar the paint. Allpy Goo Gone to the decal and let sit for 30 seconds or so. Start to scrape with the dowel and the decal will start to lift. Stay with it and in less than five minutes, you will have the decal off. Wipe clean with paper towel and Goo Gone and then polish. Outstanding! I did this just yesterday with my new 05 and it worked perfectly. Jack H. |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by barb36jack31 on 09/18/05 at 17:59:19 One way to loosen the phillips head screws that hold on the float bowl - the front ones are readily accessed and come loose quite nicely. The 2 rear ones are a different matter. The ones on my 05 S40 were so close to the battery box cover that I could not get a phillips head screwdriver onto them. The handle of the screwdriver would slant the bit so that it would not seat properly in the screwhead. an offset screwdriver did not work either. I bought a 3 1/2 in long "2 phillips driver. The kind you use in a drill. A 1/4 in. open end or box wrench fits perfectly onto the driver and with just a small tug, the screw loosens. Worked perfectly and now I don"t have to remove the battery box to pull my float bowl. By the way - I am a NEWBIE and I think this web site is great! Jack H |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by SavageBiker on 02/18/06 at 21:19:43 I forgot where I read about it but using a nickel (yes, a $0.05 coin) on a hot exhaust will remove shoe rubber and just about anything else that you unintentionally melted on your bike. At first I didn't believe it but I tried everything else and nothing worked so I had nothing to lose. Apparently, the metal in the coin is softer than the chrome so it doesn't scratch. Worked like a charm for me - it even removed burnt on dress pants that were scortched when I filled up on my way home from work one day. Of course I'm much more careful now. Oh yeah, be careful not to get burned by the exhaust or the nickel, the coin heats up quickly. |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by Kropatchek on 11/14/06 at 03:50:57 Trouble getting the clutch cover off? Use the clutch lever to loosen up the gasket. Geetz Kropatchek ;D |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by justin_o_guy on 11/18/06 at 15:37:13 Re; Squeeky belt, I use Gulf wax like is used for canning. Candle wax is harder. |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by Savage_Rob on 11/20/06 at 12:44:07 KenGLong wrote:
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by sparkett on 01/24/07 at 15:29:04 at walmart they sell neverdull, comes in a can and works great on all metal. dont know whats in there, besides the inside of a pillow, but its good stuff! ;D oooo and ooo steel wool, from a paint or furniture refinishing store polishes the aluminum and chrome pretty well. if its really bad and old( oxidised) it takes time but works pretty well. . Mothers billet and chrome works nicely too. |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by skatnbnc on 04/13/07 at 07:01:38 A crumpled piece of aluminum foil rubbed on chrome covers small scratches and gets rid of small rust pits. PAM cooking spray takes dried on bugs right off of paint and chrome. A bamboo chopstick (or two) is great for all sorts of safe poking around (where did that O ring get to?) and can also be used to scrape off bugs and stickers by shaving one end into a chisel point. A tiny flask funnel works perfectly for adding water the the battery or to guide lube oil into a tight area (thus saving removing the covers...again). Replacing the rear seat allen style screw with a phillips head saves the seat vinyl from getting torn up. It was a pain to try and undo the allen screw due to the clearance problem of the L shaped wrench. Now its a straight up breeze! |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by Greg_650 on 06/04/07 at 22:50:03 skatnbnc wrote:
Good ideas. We changed our seat bolts to allen head years ago. Same idea as phillips screws. Either way, I have no idea what Suzuki was thinking because I've actually tried to help someone take off their seat using the stock toolkit....but they also had saddle bags too. Impossible combination. Luckily a biker came by with a socket set. |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by Greg_650 on 06/04/07 at 22:57:38 Another one...I've mentioned it before... ...and I don't know if anyone else has posted it in a separate topic. Anyway, it concerns installing the tank. I just used this trick again tonight which made me think of posting.... If you want to make it easier to get it on with no cussing, pushing and beating. Then rub your rubbers generously with Vaseline. I always keep a jar handy. Makes those rubbers slide right in there. It's even handy on those other rubber toys like o-rings :P |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by firsts40 on 06/05/07 at 12:42:03 Another alternitive to Armor All, and works a lot better is Black Magic Leather Conditioner. Don't collect the dust and dirt like Armor All and last a lot longer. As far as polish goes, all I use is Mothers Sinwax, Chrome Polish, Aluninum Mag Polish, except an occasional use of Never Dull. :) All great products :) 8) |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by Digger on 06/05/07 at 20:51:09 Greg_650 wrote:
I use the same concept, except I use silicone spray. |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by Savage_Greg on 08/19/07 at 08:53:46 I don't know why I never thought of this before, and maybe other's already use this trick.... Anyone that has removed the clutch in your Savage knows that reassembly can be a real pain in the butt. Lining up all the tabs on the friction and drive plates while sliding the whole assembly into the basket can be frustrating. I realized yesterday that any easier way is possible, especially if you don't need to separate the plates (as in changing the cam chain)... After removing the tab washer and nut...simply grab a couple flat washers and reinstall 2 of the springs on the pressure plate. Run the screws down until you can no longer wiggle any of the plates and then just slide the whole thing out...no messing with the wave washer or the 1st plate. You could also remove the entire clutch at this point, and you wouldn't have to line anything up on reassembly...the trick is using the springs. http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b277/gmdinusa/Clutch_Plates_Out.jpg To be honest though...this vision didn't come to me until I was going to install the clutch after being disassembled for months.... In this scenario or if you are changing plates, slide all the plates onto the clutch hub in the proper order. Then slide in the pressure plate and add the springs, washers and bolts, but leave them loose enough to wiggle the friction plates.... http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b277/gmdinusa/Clutch_Plates_In_1.jpg ...then take the assembly and adjust the plates enough to get the hub lined up on the countershaft splines. Then wiggle the friction plates into the basket one at a time... http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b277/gmdinusa/Clutch_Plates_In_2.jpg There you go, and when I have more time, I'll post another trick...:P |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by T-Mack1 on 08/22/07 at 08:53:39 When disassembling or taking off engine covers: Here's a tip: when you take the bolts off, take cardboard, draw an outline of the thing the bolts are coming off (Head, side cover etc etc) then punch the bolt thru the cardboard in the appropriate spot on the outlined cardboard. Makes reassembly easier. This is one of the things that saved me when I bought my bike with the engine in pieces. |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by Savage_Greg on 08/22/07 at 10:26:41 T-Mack1 wrote:
Sounds like my post from Oct 2004.... http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?board=tech;action=display;num=1099227295;start=0#0 Very good ;D |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by Tim_Krantz on 11/14/07 at 05:37:42 For the very best bug remover money can buy. Use a fabric softener dryer sheet wetted with water. Don't believe me? Even gets week old bug guts off with NO hard rubbing. |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by Arthur on 11/30/07 at 08:05:16 Be careful about using Armor All on anything. I used to use it regularly on all my cars vinyl dashboards, and they cracked anyway. I used it on the plastic tailight lense on my Jaguar and it streaked the plastic to the point that you could feel the damage with your fingernail. I then researched Armor All on the Internet and found many bad reports about it doing damage to vinyl over time. Although I've seen no tests to prove it, the popular theory is that Armor All has chemicals in it which cause the natural oils in the vinyl to dry out, requiring the application of more Armor All. What I can tell you for sure is that I faithfully used the product on the vinyl dashboards of my cars and they all cracked anyway, and faster than those on other cars of the same age in the same climate. And I only ever used water to remove the dust before applying fresh Armor All. |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by Savage_Greg on 12/01/07 at 05:52:16 Good warning. I used it on my dash and just about everything "plastic" in my Malibu. Armor All clouded the clear panel over the dash instruments and gages. |
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Title: japanese phillips carb screws Post by tinga on 01/17/08 at 08:47:51 the carb screws are a japanese phillips head,that is there is a small dot in the crosshairs of the slots. the jap phillips screw driver fits amazingly perfect. i have 1 and never striped the screw heads,you can get from kline tools but the one i use came in a bit set. this is no joke, this is a certified,bonafide tool. my old kzs even had these screws! |
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Title: Re: japanese phillips carb screws Post by Digger on 06/25/08 at 20:24:06 372A2D2422430 wrote:
Very true, those screws are VERY easy to strip out using standard Phillips screwdrivers. Note that the front brake master cylinder cover also "features" these types of screws. The JIS screwdrivers work great on these. Here is another source for the JIS screwdrivers: Ames JIS Screwdrivers (http://www.amessupply.com/products1.cfm?aid=1&cid=D&sid=DE&fid=1404070) I've bought a few of these screwdrivers from them. |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by justin_o_guy2 on 08/16/08 at 04:24:07 I used to repair copiers. Back then, most used a 100% silicone oil in the fuser, which is where the toner gets melted into the paper. Its not cheap & is getting hard to get, but it's the Good part of Armor All. I use it & can find no ill effects. Hit an old copier repair place & see what they have. Some copiers used a near syrup & others were watery, pick one you can spread. When its time to wash & wax, I wash, then use a small paintbrush, trimmed as if for pinstriping, & hit the plastic & rubber things I dont want wax on, besides, they need protected. Loads cheaper than Maguiars & better than Armorall, since there are no chemicals that evaporate. |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by serowbot on 08/25/08 at 15:21:02 Use rubbing alcohol to remove and install handlebar grips. |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by Electrent on 09/14/08 at 16:26:25 Hello all. Yesterday I discovered that a new Savage signal light flasher goes for over 60 dollars plus 15% tax! So I went to the auto supply store and a Tridon HD12 plugs right in and works for 10 dollars. I used a zip tie to attach it to the original flasher's bracket. |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by mpescatori on 09/18/08 at 02:07:25 4075626058313237070 wrote:
Sorry, Greg, the pics are gone... :P Or is it just me ? :-/ |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by EssForty on 09/30/08 at 02:52:56 The stock petcock vac line is cheap and seems to be at the heart of a lot of "bike won't run" postings. Spend a dollar to get a foot of thicker walled, same ID automotive vacuum line and matching clips. Here is a picture of my original hose & slinky wrap and the new hose. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_2NU0p82vl5Y/SOH2tya1tNI/AAAAAAAAAF4/K8xRLV3Dpdw/s400/DSC_0008-1.JPG |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by DavetheDog on 04/09/09 at 11:39:21 0103160D0D0C110B11620 wrote:
Excellent and affordable tip. I bought some today at my local napa for about $1/foot after finding my stock hose had cracked right at the nipple. |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by SimonTuffGuy on 04/10/09 at 05:51:00 What is the reasoning behind the wire that surrounds that tube? |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by DavetheDog on 04/10/09 at 06:02:52 467C787A7B4160737352606C150 wrote:
I may be wrong but I think it is to prevent the tube from kinking since the walls are fairly thin and of course to provide some degree of protection. |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by Digger on 04/12/09 at 21:11:22 152F2B29281233202001333F460 wrote:
My guess: To spiff up the appearance. This is, after all, a cruiser, however cheap. The same dealio goes, BTW, for the spring on the front brake hydraulic hose (on my bike, anyway, see my signature). |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by BouleTard on 06/02/09 at 19:42:46 Great tips, guys, Here are a couple I didn't see: Substitute marine '303' UV protectant for anything you'd normally armor-all. It is expensive but good. No impact driver? Set your B&D, Makita or whatever brand electric drill on reverse and let the drill's clutch hammer it out. Shoot compressed air under a hand grip to break the glue bond. |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by BouleTard on 06/04/09 at 06:37:13 Oh yeah, here's one I may have originated through my own engine-uity and profound brainy smurf sense of uh, thrift ::) So a rock flew up and dinged your fork tube, not so bad that it causes a leak right away OR you can smooth it out pretty good with a jeweler's file so you don't have to replace the tube. Loosen the triple clamps and rotate the tube periodically so that the wear is leveled. That is, the defect wears on a different part of the fork seal with each small rotation. Turn it just enough so the ding is past any groove it may have worn in the seal. Do this every 1000 miles or so and with any luck the seal will last almost as long as if the tube was never dinged. |
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Title: Re: Tips and tricks.... Post by Serowbot on 02/24/11 at 22:51:31 1E21656663530 wrote:
Naaa,... it's righty tighty too... :-? ... |
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Title: Re: Various and Sundry Tips and Tricks Post by verslagen1 on 08/25/20 at 07:39:45 1B08110805000209080C11610 wrote:
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Title: removing left handlebar grip Post by buster6315 on 09/15/21 at 08:33:36 Is there any tip on how to remove the left handle grip? I am going to install different handlebars. Thank you! |
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Title: Re: Various and Sundry Tips and Tricks Post by Ruttly on 09/20/21 at 10:26:29 Slowly work a screwdriver between grip n bar spray some wd40 in there ,do the same in 4 or 5 spots ,remove screwdriver , twist n pull |
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Title: Re: Various and Sundry Tips and Tricks Post by buster6315 on 02/12/22 at 07:53:55 I removed the chrome end cap, then I worked a stiff wire attached to my drill chuck in between the grip and the handlebar. Activate the drill and the wire will walk its way around the handlebar. Use pressure to force it in the full width of the grip. BAM! |
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