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Message started by rocknrob on 09/01/04 at 14:17:45

Title: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by rocknrob on 09/01/04 at 14:17:45

Okay, I have a typical problem that alot of people have. My pipe is "Blue-ing" or discoloring right out of the manifold.  First, how do I get that off and make it look pretty again and I'm guessing that adjusting and/or re-jetting my carb should be done to prevent it from happening again. The fuel/air mixture is what causes this or is it something else???   Help please

Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by Greg_650 on 09/01/04 at 14:46:47

People just don't like to believe that all conversation about the jetting stuff is important, do they?  ::)

First off...WHY is it discoloring?  Have you changed anything?  Do you live in a really hot area and ride in a lot of really slow traffic?

Second, you can clean it up pretty good, but it will never be as good as new.  Sorry.  You may want to start cruising through some of the other topics on this subject.

Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by Jon on 09/01/04 at 15:24:06

With the plastic needle shim removed I never had blueing on my otherwise stock '88 or '96, even on 90 degree days.  No sign of color on the S40, either.

Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by Greg_650 on 09/01/04 at 15:39:21


Jon wrote:
With the plastic needle shim removed I never had blueing on my otherwise stock '88 or '96, even on 90 degree days.  No sign of color on the S40, either.


Exactly....

Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by Mr 650 on 09/01/04 at 16:05:04


rocknrob wrote:
Okay, I have a typical problem that alot of people have. My pipe is "Blue-ing" or discoloring right out of the manifold.  First, how do I get that off and make it look pretty again and I'm guessing that adjusting and/or re-jetting my carb should be done to prevent it from happening again. The fuel/air mixture is what causes this or is it something else???   Help please


Well, you can learn to like the psychedelic colors.
Or,re-jet and hope it does not get worse.
Alternatively, you can have it coated, w/ a metalic ceramic finish.
Coating is not the same as chrome but if your pipe is badly oxidized, then you can't do much.
W/ Blue Away and others original finish won't return, just clean it up. Coating is not a shiney as chrome but it will end the oxidation and give a reasonable facsimile.
Jet-Hot, Airborn and several others can do it.


Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by Greg_650 on 09/02/04 at 02:48:14


Mr 650 wrote:


Well, you can learn to like the psychedelic colors.
Or,re-jet and hope it does not get worse.
Alternatively, you can have it coated, w/ a metalic ceramic finish.
Coating is not the same as chrome but if your pipe is badly oxidized, then you can't do much.
W/ Blue Away and others original finish won't return, just clean it up. Coating is not a shiney as chrome but it will end the oxidation and give a reasonable facsimile.
Jet-Hot, Airborn and several others can do it.


How much does a ceramic coating cost?  Any ideas?  I had ceramic black pipes on my XS850, but I bought them that way.  Do you have to rough up the chrome finish first?

That is what I said about removing the blue....never be good as new.  The products to remove the blue have to remove some of the surface metal to do that.  My spouse removed the blue on her SuperTrapp with "The Bom" which is a really fine abrasive polish.  She put lots of elbow grease into it too.  Looks good from a distance but up close, the finish is duller than the original.

Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by klx650sm2002 on 09/02/04 at 04:03:12

The first 8" of My pipe has burned the black finish off, probably from when it was lean.If it had been chrome this would be blue. Plus it's only "single wall".I used zebrite black grate polish which makes it as good as new but wares off.

Clive W  :D

Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by Munson_kl279 on 09/02/04 at 05:17:31

I used Blue-Away on mine and it actually made the pipe look great even close up...Atleast the parts that I could get to.

If you buy the kit it comes with a semi-abrasive "sponge" that you put in a drill.  I found that if you take the pipe off completely it makes it alot easier and less clean up.

Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by Greg_650 on 09/02/04 at 15:12:18

Call me a Skeptic (only, please)  

I still don't believe that you can manually polish chrome to the same shine and smoothness that the electo-plating process creates in the first place.  That is done on molecular level.  A "semi-abrasive" of any kind is exactly that...something that scrapes away material in small chunks.

I am not a really patient person when it comes to stuff like that.  Maybe that's my problem, but I watched my spouse put hours into her "blue away" process.  She has a softer "touch" with that kind of thing too.  When she was done, the blue was gone, but the chrome was dull.  Looks fine from a few feet away.

I could be wrong, but I'd like to see proof of "like new", just once.

PS - the blue also stayed away because I rejetted her carb  ::)

Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by Mr 650 on 09/02/04 at 20:47:16


Greg_650 wrote:


How much does a ceramic coating cost?  Any ideas?  I had ceramic black pipes on my XS850, but I bought them that way.  Do you have to rough up the chrome finish first?


Well Jet-Hot was like the 1st coater, then Airborn was a spinoff. They do lots of stuff for folks like in NASCAR and stuff, About twice as high too.
I don't think they will do anything better than Firecote.
We have used Firecote w/ good results on a set of zoomies for a nostalgia dragster and the price was better than Jet-Hot or Airborn. Ihad planned to use them again, but Firecote's website was down the week I wanted my headpipe done, so I asked around, did a search and found M&R in Kodak TN, They turned my badly blued pipe around in about 10 days.$36 bucks for the full boat, inside & outside job.
I have a good plater here but don't think he would replate my pipe for that.

While I am tuning my 650, I plan to do a report w/ photos of my tests w/ the Supertrapp, the NOS 1st generation Savage Mikuni vs. the stock 2001 carb for you guys. Unless I find a bike dyno in my area, I just plan to  jet it and test @the drag strip (it's more fun too).
I will post a photo of my coated headpipe for your inspection when I get home. My friend took my camera to the big F.A.S.T. (Factory Appearing Stock Tire) race in St.Louis so when I get it back and I come back from Indy maybe next week I can post something.



Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by Greg_650 on 09/03/04 at 02:34:43


Mr 650 wrote:


Well Jet-Hot was like the 1st coater, then Airborn was a spinoff. They do lots of stuff for folks like in NASCAR and stuff, About twice as high too.
I don't think they will do anything better than Firecote.
We have used Firecote w/ good results on a set of zoomies for a nostalgia dragster and the price was better than Jet-Hot or Airborn. Ihad planned to use them again, but Firecote's website was down the week I wanted my headpipe done, so I asked around, did a search and found M&R in Kodak TN, They turned my badly blued pipe around in about 10 days.$36 bucks for the full boat, inside & outside job.
I have a good plater here but don't think he would replate my pipe for that.

While I am tuning my 650, I plan to do a report w/ photos of my tests w/ the Supertrapp, the NOS 1st generation Savage Mikuni vs. the stock 2001 carb for you guys. Unless I find a bike dyno in my area, I just plan to  jet it and test @the drag strip (it's more fun too).
I will post a photo of my coated headpipe for your inspection when I get home. My friend took my camera to the big F.A.S.T. (Factory Appearing Stock Tire) race in St.Louis so when I get it back and I come back from Indy maybe next week I can post something.



Be interesting to see how the NOS Mikuni works compared to the 2001.  If you can find it, let us know the 4 digit code on the left side of the carb.  That will give us the jet sizes.

Title: tRe: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by Mr 650 on 09/03/04 at 20:49:38


Greg_650 wrote:


That will give us the jet sizes.


Quote:
The 1986 Savages had a 155 main with a very similar exhaust (maybe less restrictive), so using similar logic I figure that a #155 may also work on a stock Savage....and yes, I do understand that other parts on the inside of the carbs have changed in 18 years.  Do you realize that the '86 Savage had a larger throttle plate in what looks like the same carb?


Cool,
It's not here yet but it ought to have the 155 main and a bigger throttle plate right?
What are the jet codes?


Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by Greg_650 on 09/04/04 at 02:27:17

The carb code is a number that is etched on the left side of the carb near the top.  It will indicate the year and maybe the country that the carb was built for.  The one on my 2000 is "24C4".  That will identify the internal jetting too.

Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by rocknrob on 09/04/04 at 17:13:51


Jon wrote:
With the plastic needle shim removed I never had blueing on my otherwise stock '88 or '96, even on 90 degree days.  No sign of color on the S40, either.


Okay, I am a new Savage owner, what is this plastic needle??????


Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by Mr 650 on 09/05/04 at 01:41:53


Greg_650 wrote:
The carb code is a number that is etched on the left side of the carb near the top.  It will indicate the year and maybe the country that the carb was built for.  The one on my 2000 is "24C4".  That will identify the internal jetting too.


Ok,spill the beans.


Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by Mr 650 on 09/05/04 at 01:58:27


rocknrob wrote:


Okay, I am a new Savage owner, what is this plastic needle??????

The plastic washer is a spacer under the needle jet.
check the Thumper page, been covered under several forums, old news.

Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by Greg_650 on 09/05/04 at 02:21:03


Mr 650 wrote:


Ok,spill the beans.


Okay, what's the number?
::)

Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by suzyssuzi on 09/05/04 at 07:35:43

have seen several pics of tape wrapped around pipes , does anyone know about this looks cool and will cover the blueing pipe. would esp look good on certain color bikes .

Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by gitarzan on 09/05/04 at 07:59:28

Strangely, the bluing doesn't bother me.   ???

I think it looks mean.  >:(

Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by Greg_650 on 09/05/04 at 11:14:09


gitarzan wrote:
Strangely, the bluing doesn't bother me.   ???

I think it looks mean.  >:(


Yeah, it isn't bad.  Just think of some bikes like the BMW that have only stainless single wall pipes.  They are always blue.

Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by Greg_650 on 09/05/04 at 11:21:46


suzyssuzi wrote:
have seen several pics of tape wrapped around pipes , does anyone know about this looks cool and will cover the blueing pipe. would esp look good on certain color bikes .


I forget the name but I know what you mean.  Not only does it cover the pipes and make them flat black, but they also are well insulated.  I met a guy with a HD that had that done and while talking he said that I could touch his header without getting burned...."What?", I said, and then I gently touched his header pipe with my finger (call me a sucker?)  Amazingly he was right.  I was able to touch the pipe on an engine that he had just turned off.....just warm to the touch.

Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by klx650sm2002 on 09/05/04 at 12:05:14

I hear what You're about the single wall pipe, That's why My black stuff keeps wearing off then  ???

Clive W  :D

Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by Jon on 09/05/04 at 13:17:49

> I still don't believe that you can manually polish chrome to the same shine and smoothness that the electo-plating process creates

Right on, prior to chrome plating metal parts are polished to a mirror shine with tin oxide, silicon carbide, and other compounds.  The chrome just covers the existing smooth surface.  Chrome is also way up there on the Mohs hardness scale so you'd probably need a polishing powder fine enough and hard enough (like powdered diamond) to put a shine on chromium.

The blue is sort of an oxidation.  Blue-Away will 'usually' remove the blue chemically if you just smear some of the paste on a cold pipe and leave it sit awhile.  The grit in Blue-Away (a pumice, I think) is intended to remove burned on road gorp and bugs, and it will dull the chrome if you scrub.  Don't scrub it, let the chemicals work, then clean off the scorched bugs with Mequiars cleaner wax which will not dull the chrome.

Btw, there are other products in powder form that you mix with water to remove blue.  They also work chemically.

Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by klx650sm2002 on 09/06/04 at 03:47:43

Where is the plastic washer, above or below.

Clive W  :D

Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by Greg_650 on 09/06/04 at 04:24:10


klx650sm2002 wrote:
Where is the plastic washer, above or below.

Clive W  :D


Above  :D

Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by klx650sm2002 on 09/06/04 at 04:34:15

Thanks a lot Greg that makes sence to Me and I feel much better now.

Clive W  :D

Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by Greg_650 on 09/06/04 at 05:09:04

You are welcome, Friend.

Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by Munson_kl279 on 09/06/04 at 07:34:33

I have to take back my ealier statements about that suff working.  I guess when I used it before the problem wasn't that bad.   :(

While trying to fix my problem with the the new turnsignals my dad killed my battery and when he was trying to charge it once he got it started he had the bike in my garage and kept the engine at high rpms and smoked it!  Now I can't get the dis-coloration off.  

Does anyone know if Suzuki changed anything with the header pipe since '86?  If not I'm hoping to be able to replace it.

Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by Greg_650 on 09/07/04 at 02:16:10

I don't believe there are any changes in the header pipe.  Shouldn't be a problem.

Title: is blueing the same as golding?
Post by russ_g on 09/08/04 at 14:00:05

My pipe actually has a gold tinge to it.  Is that the same thing.  Actually looks kind of nice as it fades from a gold to the chrome silver.

Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by Otis on 09/08/04 at 14:18:47

> My pipe actually has a gold tinge to it.  

It goes amber before turning blue.  If the fuel mix is rich enough, it won't advance to blue.  The Blue Away type compounds will remove the color, but as mentioned just smear it around on the pipe and let it sit a while.

Title: Re: is blueing the same as golding?
Post by Greg_650 on 09/09/04 at 04:14:35


russ_g wrote:
My pipe actually has a gold tinge to it.  Is that the same thing.  Actually looks kind of nice as it fades from a gold to the chrome silver.


I think that the gold tinge happens to every Savage.  Just at the downward curve.  Just the nature of the pipe.  If something else causes the engine to run hot or lean, then it will change to blue.

Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by Mr 650 on 09/11/04 at 17:35:18


Greg_650 wrote:
The carb code is a number that is etched on the left side of the carb near the top.  It will indicate the year and maybe the country that the carb was built for.  The one on my 2000 is "24C4".  That will identify the internal jetting too.

Ok Greg,
My new carb arrived, I popped the float bowl and hoped to see “155" on the main jet, but the jet is like in Japanese.
The main jet is barely stamped, could say 130 or 180, either of which would be wrong.
I pulled the main jet out and held it and my 150 side-by-side, up to a light. They look the same, but I doubt I could tell any difference between a 150 and a 155 main
There are two numbers on the upper left side of the diaphragm housing:

24B40
E531

Please, how do you decode this? :-/


Title: Re: is blueing the same as golding?
Post by Honda_fan on 09/11/04 at 18:10:50


russ_g wrote:
My pipe actually has a gold tinge to it.  Is that the same thing.  Actually looks kind of nice as it fades from a gold to the chrome silver.


The color is temperature dependent. As you heat the steel up it will go from straw to dark straw to blue.

Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by Greg_650 on 09/12/04 at 04:15:23


Mr 650 wrote:

Ok Greg,
My new carb arrived, I popped the float bowl and hoped to see “155" on the main jet, but the jet is like in Japanese.
The main jet is barely stamped, could say 130 or 180, either of which would be wrong.
I pulled the main jet out and held it and my 150 side-by-side, up to a light. They look the same, but I doubt I could tell any difference between a 150 and a 155 main
There are two numbers on the upper left side of the diaphragm housing:

24B40
E531

Please, how do you decode this? :-/


I'll tell you what, if you can't read the number (I usually use a magnifier with my old eyes), do you know someone with set of pin gages you can check the jet size size?...or if you have a complete set of Numbered drill bits you can check it (ball park) with the different shanks.  Maybe it is a Japanese carb, too.  Where did it come from?

Now the code is really putting my manual (which stays at my desk since I joined this forum) to the test.  Here is what I find....bear in mind that there are multiple un-named listings for different countries in here too after 1996.

For US carbs the ID number was 24B00 and 24B20 (CA) from 1986 until the bike was reintroduced in 1995.  At which time the ID number changed to 24C4 and 24C5 (CA).  The carbs in the 24B** series had a #155 main jet.  The 24C** series went to a #145.  So your carb appears to be Pre-1996.

Now the other confusing part is the "E531".  That is an item number and this number doesn't appear in the charts until 1996, and here it gets good.  There is only a listing for E53, not E531.  And the really interesting part is that carbs in this series had a #125 or #130 main jet.

The E53* series carbs are also listed for 1999 and later, but I believe that Mr. Kropachek can help here...cause it almost sounds like a European carb.  

Can you read the number on the Throttle plate?  Mine says #120.  Is yours a #125?  

Does yours have a jet needle with a clip on it rather than a spacer?

Can you read the number on the "needle jet" (remove the slide)?

We're becoming carb detectives here for sure.  Mr. Watson, where did it come from? ???

Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by Greg_650 on 09/12/04 at 04:32:54

I got an idea (thanks to Mr. Kropachek), and here is more information from Ron Ayers...

http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/300_0271/carburetor/carburetor.cfm

This is for a 1996 carb, and I think it gives us a clue.  It appears that 24B** designates the top diaphram part of the carb and the E53* numbers are for the bottom fuel end.

It appears that your carb "ain't from around here".  

Interesting!

Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by klx650sm2002 on 09/12/04 at 04:48:48

I'd like to be able to help but don't know about LS650 carbs, I just fitted a dynojet kit to My CV carb. Do dynojet do a kit for LS's.

Clive W  :D

Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by Greg_650 on 09/12/04 at 05:51:03


klx650sm2002 wrote:
I'd like to be able to help but don't know about LS650 carbs, I just fitted a dynojet kit to My CV carb. Do dynojet do a kit for LS's.

Clive W  :D


Yes, they do.  I think that Jendesigner or Nancy P got one.  Can't remember who.

Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by Mr 650 on 09/12/04 at 10:25:58


Greg_650 wrote:


I'll tell you what, if you can't read the number (I usually use a magnifier with my old eyes), do you know someone with set of pin gages you can check the jet size size?...or if you have a complete set of Numbered drill bits you can check it (ball park) with the different shanks.  Maybe it is a Japanese carb, too.  Where did it come from?

Now the code is really putting my manual (which stays at my desk since I joined this forum) to the test.  Here is what I find....bear in mind that there are multiple un-named listings for different countries in here too after 1996.

For US carbs the ID number was 24B00 and 24B20 (CA) from 1986 until the bike was reintroduced in 1995.  At which time the ID number changed to 24C4 and 24C5 (CA).  The carbs in the 24B** series had a #155 main jet.  The 24C** series went to a #145.  So your carb appears to be Pre-1996.

Now the other confusing part is the "E531".  That is an item number and this number doesn't appear in the charts until 1996, and here it gets good.  There is only a listing for E53, not E531.  And the really interesting part is that carbs in this series had a #125 or #130 main jet.

The E53* series carbs are also listed for 1999 and later, but I believe that Mr. Kropachek can help here...cause it almost sounds like a European carb.  

Can you read the number on the Throttle plate?  Mine says #120.  Is yours a #125?  

Does yours have a jet needle with a clip on it rather than a spacer?

Can you read the number on the "needle jet" (remove the slide)?

We're becoming carb detectives here for sure.  Mr. Watson, where did it come from? ???


Man! Thanks for the info! Like it says Yabb god.
I was gonna slam the K &N, the new Supertrapp exhaust system and this carb all on at once,can you imagine how it would run on a 130 jet!? :(

This thing turned up w/ my ebay filter from this place:
www.AndersonVintageParts.com
It was listed as NOS andit looks brand new inside and out.

I put on my low power readers over my high power readers and I an afraid this thing has a 130 jet, like you said. Kalifornia carb?  ???
Above the screw driver slot, this main jet has an "R" followed by a "square" within a square in the lower left corner.

Below the slot is stamped "130". :-[

Likewise the throttle plate has the same "square within a square"symbol followed by "125".
Is this the larger or smaller plate?

I wonder if it is for the 400 Savage -Japanese version?  ???

I gotta go to the shop (18 miles) to get the top off. The diaphagm cover screws are real tight, and don't wanna strip 'em. I will report back w/ needle info.
If this thing has the larger throttle, perhaps we can build it up, but i expect we will need to swap stuff as far a jet, needle and bleed. (This ain't like my old Kawy.
it didn't have the diaphragm, the throttle operated the slide.)

I was hoping for a carb that was set up more like yours.

I bought it thinking the larger throttle plate would run better w/ the K&N and open end Supertrapp, remove the white spacer if present,
starting w/ the 155 main it was supposed to have, and try the 157 too.
*If* this one has the larger throttle, perhaps we can build it.

Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by Greg_650 on 09/13/04 at 03:06:22

Cool.  You do have a larger throttle plate.  To me it sounds more like a UK version carb because their emissions restrictions are a little tougher than ours (I think).

Actually I think that you have the makings of an '86 carb and all that you need to do is some jet swapping.  The '86s had that size throttle plate.  If you can find that chart in the topic  about changes to the Savages, I think you'll see which jets to find.

Be interesting to see what's under the diaphram now.  :)

Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by Mr 650 on 09/13/04 at 10:56:03

I found the 1st number under 1987 carbs:
( 2-2 )   13500-24B40
 DIAPHRAGM ASSY  

http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/300_0039/carburetor/carburetor.cfm

P.S I forgot your  post of carb changes  ::)in 'changes' catagory, perfect info!
Muchas gracias Greg.


Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by Mr 650 on 09/13/04 at 13:30:17

Greg, there's the other oddball stuff:

5C16-jet needle

"534 (square icon) X-7" needle jet

70 - pilot jet (screws in under the diaphragm) ???

P.S Who carries assortment of BS40 parts?
Where can I find a chart to show the differences in '87- 90's BS40 needles, needle jets, and pilot jets.
Like what's the diff. between the x-6 and x-7 needle jet? (besides"one", Suzuki numbers?)
They vary widely over the life of this model.

Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by Greg_650 on 09/15/04 at 02:47:28

All this is pretty interesting, isn't it.  It points to the fact that OEM companies make losts of little subtle changes that are hardly noticable.  When looked at more closely, it is almost baffling.

I bet the X-6 and X-7 for the jet needles is some kind of designation that relates to the taper of the needle.  Maybe the number means a 6% or 7% taper to the needle (like on the signs for a downhill grade).  The taper changes the ratio of the fuel mix relative to the throttle opening.  And I guess that a larger taper would mean the fuel mix from the needle jet advances more rapidly with the throttle position.

Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by klx650sm2002 on 09/15/04 at 05:56:11

Sounds good to Me Greg.

Clive W  :D

Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by Mr 650 on 09/15/04 at 12:22:52


Greg_650 wrote:
All this is pretty interesting, isn't it.  It points to the fact that OEM companies make losts of little subtle changes that are hardly noticable.  When looked at more closely, it is almost baffling.

I bet the X-6 and X-7 for the jet needles is some kind of designation that relates to the taper of the needle.  Maybe the number means a 6% or 7% taper to the needle (like on the signs for a downhill grade).  The taper changes the ratio of the fuel mix relative to the throttle opening.  And I guess that a larger taper would mean the fuel mix from the needle jet advances more rapidly with the throttle position.


I hope to have them both.
My 'stealer' (good guys actually) finally got in a batch of jets, so I have all the main jets in the 150's now.
He said he could get the X-6 & 5C17, so I ordered them yesterday. I plan to install the '86 parts w/ the 155 or 157.5 main and tune from there. I would seriously consider something else based on your experience. I get no joy swapping the tank on & off. I hope I get close w/ that set-up.
Last night  local track said I needed a dead man switch to run my stock 650 for test & tune night (not even a race), so no trap speed to do carb comparos. The only time I topped it, the LS ran indicated 89 mph on level road.

Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by Gargoyle on 09/15/04 at 15:33:04

I have used Blue Away and it removed the bluing but it also somewhat scratched the chrome or dulled it a little. The bluing on the header pipe I live with. The bluing on my drag pipe I'll cover with a heat shield.

Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by Greg_650 on 09/16/04 at 02:27:08


Mr 650 wrote:


I hope to have them both.
My 'stealer' (good guys actually) finally got in a batch of jets, so I have all the main jets in the 150's now.
He said he could get the X-6 & 5C17, so I ordered them yesterday. I plan to install the '86 parts w/ the 155 or 157.5 main and tune from there. I would seriously consider something else based on your experience. I get no joy swapping the tank on & off. I hope I get close w/ that set-up.
Last night  local track said I needed a dead man switch to run my stock 650 for test & tune night (not even a race), so no trap speed to do carb comparos. The only time I topped it, the LS ran indicated 89 mph on level road.


While you have it apart, change all the screws to stainless allen head bolts.  Much easier to deal with.

I'd like to see how your needle change goes.  That could be one definitive answer for the 4 years that I've heard of people removing the spacer.  Keep us posted when you are below 80  ;)

Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by Mr 650 on 09/16/04 at 11:43:26


Greg_650 wrote:


I'd like to see how your needle change goes.  That could be one definitive answer for the 4 years that I've heard of people removing the spacer


Greg,
FYI; according to Mr. Brown & Mr.Sharpe's caliper,

This 5C16 needle from mystery NOS carb tapers like this:

0.118"- in diameter from the c-clip to the start of the taper.
1.450"- length from start of taper to the smallest diameter-
0.100" - in dia. at the little end of taper (base of the cone that forms the point) and the point is about
.050" from the point back up to it's base.
2.269 overall lenght from tip to tip/

0.087-white spacer thickness

Will post 5C17 specs on arrival.
 


Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by Greg_650 on 09/18/04 at 05:54:29


Mr 650 wrote:


Greg,
FYI; according to Mr. Brown & Mr.Sharpe's caliper,

This 5C16 needle from mystery NOS carb tapers like this:

0.118"- in diameter from the c-clip to the start of the taper.
1.450"- length from start of taper to the smallest diameter-
0.100" - in dia. at the little end of taper (base of the cone that forms the point) and the point is about
.050" from the point back up to it's base.
2.269 overall lenght from tip to tip/

0.087-white spacer thickness

Will post 5C17 specs on arrival.
 


It will be interesting to see the results of your measuring.

What's up with the white spacer thickness of .087"?   ???  Isn't that thinner than the other ones?  I wonder if the spacers have changed over the years too.

Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by Greg_650 on 09/18/04 at 06:04:16

I just checked the Ron Ayers micro-fiche again.

The spacers in the 1987 models have a different part number than in the '96-'02 models.  Does that mean they are a different thickness?

Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by Mr 650 on 09/19/04 at 13:55:31

ATTN;Paladin

Greg_650 wrote:

The spacers in the 1987 models have a different part number than in the '96-'02 models.  Does that mean they are a different thickness?


That is a very good question.
W/o further info I will split the difference and do the #4 washer trick, but that may be too rich. If the X-6 & X-7 needles measure about the same It should run better.

Also a report over on Be_Savafe forum said;

"whyno12@e...> wrote:

> i took the plunge today. put a 155 jet in the scooter, and put a k & n air filter in the stock box. scooter runs like a scalded dog.
made a big difference. i did take the plug out of the mixture adjustment and adjusted the carb out to where it was running good...
that was all the changes i made. the savage starts, runs, and sounds like i think it should. have not changed the muffler as of yet,and not sure i will."

The 155 main seems to be the best place to start w/ a stock muffler and 157.5 w/ open pipe.


Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by Greg_650 on 09/20/04 at 02:33:31

I don't know.  I took mine up in stages and checked as I went.  Then I did the same sort of thing with my spouse's having a different pipe.  In either case, I went until it seemed  to be the best and stopped.  

Did the guy say what year Savage he was riding?

Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by Mr 650 on 09/25/04 at 23:23:56

The stock carb had a flat spot when the air cooled off after I went to eat, I noticed coming back Thursday night w/ new  Supertrapp pipe on for 1st time.
It backfired big (about a .38 special or 9mm) and had a flat spot just as it came off idle and was slow to rev up.

So I installed the new carb tonight along w/ a K&N filter.
http://www.icestormcity.com/elsnod/bigcarb.JPG
Current config;

157.5 main jet
5C17 needle
X-6 needle jet
white washer reduced to .050 from .088
67.5 pilot jet under diaphragm

The #4 washer's O.D. was too big for the recess in the slide and was binding, so we just filed the white nylon washer down to 50 thou.
I set the idle screw to 3 out, by the book.
My compadre said 'this thing is gonna run like S%#t and you're gonna wind up w/ the stock one back on it'.
I put the big new carb on the bike & as much as I had changed I was surprised, relieved and very happy it cranked at all :)
In fact Suzy fired right up and idled real good w/o  any choke! :o

Crack the throttle and it barks, and falls right back to idle, unlike the old one which fell below then back up.
I rode down 1/2 mile  to I-240, up to about 80mph over to next exit about 1/2 mile  and back home, about 3 miles around town. No malfunctions. She pops a little on decel and sometimes as I shift up, but no duck and cover stuff now.
Throttle response was good around town.
I will need to ride it w/ this set-up more and maybe try a 155 main later.
Next need to pull the tank, check the valves and stick a new plug in it before I test top speed.
It's getting late so better not be blasting around town any more tonight. 8)
Gotta say thanks to Greg and everyone here, and at LS650.net http://www.heise-workstations.de/ls650/LS650.html
TheThumper page http://www.thumperpage.com/ and the
Be _Savage folks http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Be_Savage for all the tuning and carb input, oh yeah I got the carb from our new sponsor at Anderson Vintage Parts too.

P.S. I did a snorkel-ectomy to the air box too.

Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by Jon on 09/26/04 at 01:33:55

> The spacers in the 1987 models have a different part
> number than in the '96-'02 models.  Does that mean
> they are a different thickness?

Is the part number for the '87 the same as the '88? I have 1988 and 2005 spacers here and both measure .112 with a dial caliper.

Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by Jon on 09/26/04 at 01:42:46

> The #4 washer's O.D. was too big for the recess in
> the slide and was binding

Yes, just a hair too large in diameter. The #4 washer can be chucked in a Dremel tool mandrel and spun against fine sandpaper to reduce it down.  

Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by Greg_650 on 09/26/04 at 02:53:46


Jon wrote:
> The #4 washer's O.D. was too big for the recess in
> the slide and was binding

Yes, just a hair too large in diameter. The #4 washer can be chucked in a Dremel tool mandrel and spun against fine sandpaper to reduce it down.  


Good technique!  A lot simpler than trying to turn it in a lathe  ;)

Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by Greg_650 on 09/26/04 at 02:54:52


Jon wrote:
> The spacers in the 1987 models have a different part
> number than in the '96-'02 models.  Does that mean
> they are a different thickness?

Is the part number for the '87 the same as the '88? I have 1988 and 2005 spacers here and both measure .112 with a dial caliper.


I wonder why Mr650's spacer was .088"

Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by Greg_650 on 09/26/04 at 03:07:41


Mr 650 wrote:
The stock carb had a flat spot when the air cooled off after I went to eat, I noticed coming back Thursday night w/ new  Supertrapp pipe on for 1st time.
It backfired big (about a .38 special or 9mm) and had a flat spot just as it came off idle and was slow to rev up.

So I installed the new carb tonight along w/ a K&N filter.
Current config;

157.5 main jet
5C17 needle
X-6 needle jet
white washer reduced to .050 from .088
67.5 pilot jet under diaphragm



So essentially you have an '88 carb on a '01.  Was the throttle plate a #125 or #120?

I'm interested in the 67.5 Pilot Jet.  The stock is 47.5 and once I had tried a 50.0 but it didn't seem to run very well.  

Does anyone know if the BS40 carb meters fuel or air with the pilot jet?  I thought that I'd heard there was a way to determine that difference.  If it meters air then the 67.5 makes it leaner...if fuel then richer.  I could be wrong ???

Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by Mr 650 on 09/26/04 at 08:49:22


Quote:
So essentially you have an '88 carb on a '01.  Was the throttle plate a #125 or #120?

I'm interested in the 67.5 Pilot Jet.  The stock is 47.5 and once I had tried a 50.0 but it didn't seem to run very well.  

Does anyone know if the BS40 carb meters fuel or air with the pilot jet?  I thought that I'd heard there was a way to determine that difference.  If it meters air then the 67.5 makes it leaner...if fuel then richer.  I could be wrong


I was looking at the '86 specs. & bought the jets.
I started w/ a 125 throttle body.
Ron Ayers shows the pilot jet as item ( 12-1 )   09491-67004  
 M/J 67.5 (N102221)  
http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/300_0039/carburetor/carburetor.cfm
The new carb had a 70 pilot jet in it, so I went w/ the 86 spec.
I went to 10 differnt bike shops and the only 67.5  jet I found was the "larger Mikuni" main jet to use under the diaphagm. I turned the O.D. down to match the 70 jet that came in the new carb (and like the 2001).
Also the X-6 needle jet was unique to '86 (I think).
It may or may not be different than the X-7. I had it, so in it went. We both measured the X-6 & X-7 needle and they were the same, so we went w/ the adjustable X-7. I will open the 2001 carb and tell you what I find. I pulled the bowl off and the 01 had a 145 main in it as it should.


Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by Mr 650 on 09/26/04 at 09:16:26


Greg_650 wrote:


I wonder why Mr650's spacer was .088"


Beats me,
Remember we never figured out what this NOS carb was for, it had parts didn't match much.
At 1st I thought it was a California model, but Clymer shows an emission fuel vapor tube that this one ain't got.
We both measured the washer w/ different calipers, same thickness. Ron Ayers shows the same part # for both years, I may not have checked every year.  Seems like I read someone over on LS650.net saying theirs was .090. "across the pond". So it may be a euro carb.


Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by Tad Anderson on 09/30/04 at 15:35:03


Mr 650 wrote:
The stock carb had a flat spot when the air cooled off after I went to eat, I noticed coming back Thursday night w/ new  Supertrapp pipe on for 1st time.
It backfired big (about a .38 special or 9mm) and had a flat spot just as it came off idle and was slow to rev up.

So I installed the new carb tonight along w/ a K&N filter.
http://www.icestormcity.com/elsnod/bigcarb.JPG
Current config;

157.5 main jet
5C17 needle
X-6 needle jet
white washer reduced to .050 from .088
67.5 pilot jet under diaphragm

The #4 washer's O.D. was too big for the recess in the slide and was binding, so we just filed the white nylon washer down to 50 thou.
I set the idle screw to 3 out, by the book.
My compadre said 'this thing is gonna run like S%#t and you're gonna wind up w/ the stock one back on it'.
I put the big new carb on the bike & as much as I had changed I was surprised, relieved and very happy it cranked at all :)
In fact Suzy fired right up and idled real good w/o  any choke! :o

Crack the throttle and it barks, and falls right back to idle, unlike the old one which fell below then back up.
I rode down 1/2 mile  to I-240, up to about 80mph over to next exit about 1/2 mile  and back home, about 3 miles around town. No malfunctions. She pops a little on decel and sometimes as I shift up, but no duck and cover stuff now.
Throttle response was good around town.
I will need to ride it w/ this set-up more and maybe try a 155 main later.
Next need to pull the tank, check the valves and stick a new plug in it before I test top speed.
It's getting late so better not be blasting around town any more tonight. 8)
Gotta say thanks to Greg and everyone here, and at LS650.net http://www.heise-workstations.de/ls650/LS650.html
TheThumper page http://www.thumperpage.com/ and the
Be _Savage folks http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Be_Savage for all the tuning and carb input, oh yeah I got the carb from our new sponsor at Anderson Vintage Parts too.

P.S. I did a snorkel-ectomy to the air box too.



I'm glad to hear it worked out for you :)  Also, if it helps with identifcation any, the carb was purchased in a 4 semi load buy out from Suzuki of Frankonia (Switzerland) last december.

It's country code states it for use in;

ENGLAND
FRANCE
ECE1 (E2/E6/E24)
ECE3 (E15/E16/E17/E21/E25/E39/E53)
GENERAL (N° 1)

Also, we are about to open our online catalog today!

Cheers,

-Tad

Title: Re: Dis-coloring pipes!!
Post by Greg_650 on 10/01/04 at 03:06:38

I thought that it might have been a European carb since none of the specs really matched a CA model either.

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