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General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Getting smokey and a myriad of other issues
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Message started by I401 on 07/24/25 at 08:58:48

Title: Getting smokey and a myriad of other issues
Post by I401 on 07/24/25 at 08:58:48

Hey y'all, I'm pretty new to riding and brand new to my 2013 Suzuki S40. From less than a half hour after I bought my bike to now it's been issue after issue so I'm hoping I can start soaking up some know-how. I figure it's not so long that I can't just start from the beginning of the story and ask for any advice on all this crap that keeps piling up.

I know I overpaid at 2,800 for it. Definitely had been dropped both sides with the scraped up exhaust and 3 of the 4 turn signals ought to be replaced at some point but I was excited to be looking at something barely in my budget that wasn't a rebel 250. (Should've walked away when the lady kept saying anything wrong with it must've been the previous owner)

On the ride back to my buddy's place, him riding it and me driving because I'm still on a permit, I noticed the headlights go out and got confused as to why he'd turn them off in the evening. Came to find out the electrical was on the fritz half way through getting back because other controls weren't working. we made it back to his garage and found out one of the connections in the wiring harness underneath the tank had started coming apart and was barely hanging together by a couple prongs. Simple enough I just plugged it back together and suddenly all the controls and headlights were working again.

So, unfortunately it wasn't until a couple days after I'd bought the bike that I learned of an oil leak making it get pretty smokey if I stopped for more than 30 seconds in the same spot. I've already ordered the cylinder head plug that I found out is often a cause for this and I hope that's all there is to it, BUT I've also heard that the cylinder head bolts can have a tendency to back themselves out causing a smokey oil leak that way as well. Have any of y'all had similar troubles?

I did also find one of the cylinder head bolts were finger loose. I figured I'd tighten it up until I'm able to get the cylinder head lid off later but when I started wrenching it, it just kept spinning with some of resistance but not a ton. I'll attach a diagram I found with the specific bolt circled. Am I royally crappity smacked with a stripped engine bolt?

http://https://i.imgur.com/ZXyWnnC.jpeg

Before finding the cylinder head bolt issue though, I found out all 3 top engine mount bolts are absolutely crappity smacking seized with what looks like either sheet metal jammed between the threads of the bolts and nuts (seized heli-coils? I don't know) and the nuts are so stuck on there they're deforming before even budging. (will attach photo of one of them if the file size isn't too big) Going to try taking a pen torch to them to see of I can get it off but if not I may have to drill them out and order new OEM bolts and nuts. I don't think they're original nuts but can't be sure.

http://https://i.imgur.com/ZjTBO8Rl.jpg

From what I understand after reading the forum here for a while, the drive belt should be loose enough to pinch it between your thumb and index then be able to turn your hand 90 degrees, right? If that's the case my belt is way too tight and that would explain why it squeaks when I move it around while the engine's off.

Finally, while inspecting it closer, I found another electrical problem, being that clip that keeps the left handlebar electricals plugged into the wiring harness is snapped off. It was just covered in electrical tape and I hadn't noticed it before. I can't find an OEM replacement (besides a whole new left handlebar control assembly) but if y'all know of something I'd appreciate it. It's simple enough to just check and make sure the plug isn't backing out but it pisses me off how many issues were covered with tape and nuts that I hadn't recognized because I had rose tinted glasses on looking at the thing before buying.

Plans I have at the moment are to get the cylinder head lid off and replace the plug, put Permatex ultra red around to make sure there's a really good seal, checking cam chain tensioner during the oil change, reassembly, and figuring out how to loosen the drive belt.

I've already swapped the OEM petcock for the raptor. Still need to plug the carb though and considering putting in a fuel filter

Title: Re: Getting smokey and a myriad of other issues
Post by DragBikeMike on 07/24/25 at 11:04:09

Fix for stripped head cover bolt. Easy to do, works great.

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1665791582

Solution for belt squeal. Easy, cheap. needs a simple machining job. Contact Armen for the machining or go to local machine shop.

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1561964431

The self-locking nuts on upper engine mount are original equipment. Use six-point wrench and six-point socket. Twelve-point wrench and socket rounds off the corners.

Post pics of the broken electrical connector. Might be candidate for epoxy repair.

Title: Re: Getting smokey and a myriad of other issues
Post by I401 on 07/24/25 at 11:44:53

494F403C3E393D0D0 wrote:

Much appreciated Mike! I'll get photos of the plug up once I'm off work and with my bike. As for the engine mount bolts, a hexagonal socket was the second thing I tried after a normal crescent wrench but the nut deformed and rounded over with that too. It's good to know some jerk didn't screw with it before me and they're stock but still going to be a hell of a time getting them off.

Title: Re: Getting smokey and a myriad of other issues
Post by LANCER on 07/24/25 at 15:34:58

Just because a nut is stock does not mean someone didn’t “Re-torque” it sometime after they got the bike.

Title: Re: Getting smokey and a myriad of other issues
Post by I401 on 07/24/25 at 20:24:54

Here's the clip for the left handlebar control assembly that's broken. The female end of the plug has a hook that juts out and the male end of the plug has a loop that the hook goes through to keep from backing out. The loop is broken so it's able to be pulled out. If anybody knows a part number or if it's possible to just pull the wires and replace the plug please let me know!

Also, I got the engine mount nuts off with a really good penetrating oil. Some not a very nice person absolutely retorqued them because looking at it better one of the washers was cracked and the bolts were slathered in blue lock tight.

Title: Re: Getting smokey and a myriad of other issues
Post by Dave on 07/24/25 at 21:22:01

473A3E3F0E0 wrote:

Here's the clip for the left handlebar control assembly that's broken.

It appears that is the clutch safety switch (a bit hard to tell from the close up photo).

I may have one of those connectors in my box of spare parts......I eliminated that switch and also my kickstand safety switch years ago. I am a seasoned rider and learned to ride before those were invented, and I did not want the switches going bad when I was far from home and causing me to get stuck. My starting routine always includes getting on the bike and tipping it upright, pulling up the kickstand, turning on the fuel, turning on the key and looking for the neutral light, pulling out the choke knob, pull in the clutch and then hit the starter button. It is a routine that would serve every rider well!

I am out of the country right now and likelky won't be able to look for that connector until after August 3rd.

Or - you can do what I did and remove the clutch safety switch by clipping off the connector and soldering the wires together

PS. Don't use Red gasket sealer.....it sets up too quickly and makes a mess. Plus the bright red color lets everybody know te bike has been worked on. Buy a tube of Suzukibond and do the job correctly - it sets up slower than store bought RTV and gives you more time to work. Also it stays useable in the tube for several years - the store bouhgt RTV sets up in the tube and you generally only get one use out of it.