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Message started by Peter Fonda on 05/27/25 at 17:13:12

Title: New clutch time
Post by Peter Fonda on 05/27/25 at 17:13:12

so I’m pretty sure the clutch on my bike is on its last legs, lever needs to be 3/4 of the way out before you feel it grab. Now I’ve looked on line but can’t find a full kit replacement most places sell plates individually, and I THINK my bike only require five Friction plates(2008 suzuki s40) I’ve always just replaced the friction and steel plates and springs before.

What do you guys recommend ?? I’ve seen cork style and Kevlar style friction plates. I do tend to get a little wild with my shifting sometimes, I don’t granny shift it - I like to bang a few gears like most bikers do lol :)

Title: Re: New clutch time
Post by verslagen1 on 05/27/25 at 17:33:44

sounds like you have an adjustment problem.
most people complain their clutches slip, if you got grip, adjust and be happy.

tell us where the arm is on the case when you take out the freeplay?

Title: Re: New clutch time
Post by Peter Fonda on 05/27/25 at 17:47:35

I’ll have to check that tomorrow after work and see where the free play is on it.

Title: Re: New clutch time
Post by Tocsik on 05/27/25 at 19:38:25

You may just need the next size pin. I know someone with more knowledge and the right link will chime in.

Edit: push rod
Part 22 in this diagram: https://www.revzilla.com/oem/suzuki/2006-suzuki-s40-boulevard/clutch?submodel=ls650&srsltid=AfmBOooHjaX-59DI1tesuYf6AVYATLLUbLT5DsxWlPEPsLX1cpD4tP2x

Comes in three lengths. If I remember correctly, the shorter push rod is what fixes engagement as the plates wear. It's a bit counter intuitive. At least to me, who doesn't have the vast understanding of the workings of the innards like many here do.

Title: Re: New clutch time
Post by Dave on 05/28/25 at 04:01:40

1632202A013A3736216562530 wrote:

I do tend to get a little wild with my shifting sometimes, I don’t granny shift it - I like to bang a few gears like most bikers do lol :)

Title: Re: New clutch time
Post by Peter Fonda on 05/28/25 at 08:07:06

704B4651404C57514A424F50230 wrote:

[quote author=1632202A013A3736216562530 link=1748391192/0#0 date=1748391192] I do tend to get a little wild with my shifting sometimes, I don’t granny shift it - I like to bang a few gears like most bikers do lol :)

The Savage clutch is not very robust - you really should be a bit gentler to it. This is especially true if you have done anything to bump up the HP of the engine.

You should let your clutch completely out and let it engage fully before you apply throttle......don't start applying throttle while you are still releasing the clutch lever. Your clutch and drive belt will appreciate the kindness!!!!![/quote]

Yes I do so, but I’m referring to I like shifting fast once in awhile. Also why I was asking if I should stay with a cork style plates or go to Kevlar material if I need a new one

Title: Re: New clutch time
Post by Dave on 05/28/25 at 09:20:02

I have the Kevlar plates in my bike currently - I really haven't noticed any difference in the performance.

Longevity is likely never to be an issue for me - I have only put about 1,000 miles a year on Savage. (I ride a lot....but with 5 motorcycles the mileage on each one doesn't go up very quickly).

Title: Re: New clutch time
Post by Peter Fonda on 05/28/25 at 10:43:04

That’s where the arm on my case is at right now

Title: Re: New clutch time
Post by verslagen1 on 05/28/25 at 12:17:30

if you look at the case right below the arm you'll see a line and there's another one hidden by the arm.

the less freeplay you have, the more action you'll have.

Title: Re: New clutch time
Post by Peter Fonda on 05/28/25 at 12:24:13

So then should I loosen those adjuster nuts, and make sure that the arm is in the middle of those two lines on the case or why would the arm be sitting so much or so far off of the centre like that wasn’t adjusted wrong to begin with or why would my arm even be sitting that way?

Title: Re: New clutch time
Post by verslagen1 on 05/28/25 at 12:57:02

1st and foremost... adjust the cable to minimize freeplay.
2nd look at the lines for an indication for a need of adjustment.
the higher the arm is the more likely you'll need to change the throwout rod for a different 1.
there are 3 lengths, they are not expensive, buy all 3. better to have an extra 1 then the wrong 1.

Title: Re: New clutch time
Post by Peter Fonda on 05/28/25 at 13:12:37

Well there is no free play in my cable at all

As soon as you move the lever or the arm you can see the cable move and feel the pressure

Title: Re: New clutch time
Post by Dave on 05/28/25 at 14:24:46

Here is a video on how to adjust the clutch cable.

For the bottom adjustment you use the 2 nuts near the cable end.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8MW4h1Rk9AA
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8MW4h1Rk9AA[/media]

When that chrome lever at the engine rises enough that it is at the upper mark on the case - it is time to install a shorter rod inside the clutch.

Title: Re: New clutch time
Post by Peter Fonda on 05/28/25 at 15:24:35

So do I need to be lowering the shaft closer on the case end then ??

Title: Re: New clutch time
Post by Peter Fonda on 05/28/25 at 15:25:33

Kind of hard to see but ya get it

Title: Re: New clutch time
Post by Needles on 05/28/25 at 16:45:50

If you have no freeplay at all, try loosening the tension on the cable. Too tight will make it slip, because that's like having a certain amount of pull started on it before you pull it.

Title: Re: New clutch time
Post by Peter Fonda on 05/28/25 at 17:13:18

So then should I loosen the nuts on case adjuster and bring that down further a bit ? That way the arm on the case is lowered a bit to be more in middle of the two lines aka marks

Title: Re: New clutch time
Post by Dave on 05/28/25 at 18:31:52

First - Adjust the cable as shown in the video.....you need some slack in the cable and the "free play" as described and demonstrated with the two nickels. You can make this adjustment using the adjuster up at the lever on the handlebars.....or if needed with the two nuts at the bottom end of the cable.

Second - then look at the position of the chrome lever down on the engine. If it is even or higher than the upper mark on the black case, then you need to install a shorter rod inside the clutch.

Title: Re: New clutch time
Post by Savard 05 on 05/29/25 at 03:22:23

Imma chime in and say you want 2 -3 mm gap in clutch lever and handle grip of free play per the manual. I like to grip a 3 -4 mm socket or allen wrench and put to gap for size comparison

Title: Re: New clutch time
Post by Peter Fonda on 05/29/25 at 11:52:16

Ok so I’ve got about two nickel widths on my lever right now but the arm hasn’t moved much it seems. I’ll have to fire it up and see where it feels like it grabbing

Title: Re: New clutch time
Post by Peter Fonda on 05/30/25 at 09:33:05

So the clutch seems to engage the same place it did before about 3/4 of the ways out when ya release the lever

Title: Re: New clutch time
Post by verslagen1 on 05/30/25 at 21:45:56

It seems to me that you need to change the throwout rod.

Title: Re: New clutch time
Post by Peter Fonda on 05/31/25 at 02:48:42

I was thinking the same thing too, all though the place I was gonna order from online is out of stock with all three rods [ch128078][ch127996] so I might have to check with somewhat local Suzuki dealer

Title: Re: New clutch time
Post by ThumperPaul on 05/31/25 at 11:40:48

Part #22 in the diagram. Your choice of 3 lengths (44.5mm, 45.5mm, 46.5mm).

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/suzuki/motorcycle/2005/boulevard-s40-ls650/clutch

Where do you want/expect the clutch friction zone to begin? If engagement begins 3/4 of the way from the handlebar grip (beginning of the friction zone) AND the clutch fully engages by the time you fully release the lever, you're actually in a pretty good/normal place.

I prefer a minimum of freeplay (like the thickness of a quarter at the clutch perch). So if the friction zone begins at 3/4 of the way from the grip, it's pretty ideal for me.

I know some people like a lot of freeplay (slop) in the clutch lever. They want to have squeeze the lever all the way to the grip to fully disengage the clutch and their friction zone begins at maybe 1/8th release and the clutch is fully engaged by the time they release it 1/2 way. And then the lever just flops around with all that freeplay slop. This feels "yucky" to me, and I don't want to be clenching the lever all the way to the grip like GI Joe with the Kung Fo Grip to stay out of the friction zone.

If your clutch fully engages (no slipping under load) and fully disengages (no creeping when you're stopped and in gear), you don't have a clutch problem. You simply have a comfort or expectation mismatch.

Title: Re: New clutch time
Post by Peter Fonda on 05/31/25 at 12:01:44

Well when releasing the clutch lever you don’t feel it grab until 3/4 of the way out from the bar. But when squeezing the lever you can feel some tightness it just don’t grab to move the bike till 3/4 out. Any bike I have rode always would grab about 1/4 way out.

Only a couple nickles worth of free play on the lever like manual suggest

Title: Re: New clutch time
Post by ThumperPaul on 05/31/25 at 12:55:58

Do you mean "releasing the lever" (not squeezing the lever)?

I don't know what other bikes you've had, but if the freeplay was set correctly around 3-5mm depending on the exact bike, the friction zone shouldn't be that close to the grip (1/4 out).

If you want the friction zone closer to the grip, just give it a ton of freeplay. If that's what you like and that's what you are used to.

Title: Re: New clutch time
Post by Peter Fonda on 05/31/25 at 13:56:49

Ok so sitting in the bike you squeeze the lever to bring it in, I have about a couple nickles of free play. Then when you release it to start to move the bike don’t start to move until the lever is about 3/4 of the way out

Other bikes I’ve had have been Suzuki hayabusa, kawi 636r, ktm smc625,

6B574A524F5A4D6F5E4A533F0 wrote:

Title: Re: New clutch time
Post by ThumperPaul on 05/31/25 at 15:22:52

So back to what I said earlier…. If the clutch will fully engage and fully disengage, you don’t have a major clutch problem. Sounds like you just have a comfort issue with where the friction zone starts and ends.

I’ve not ridden those other bikes you’ve owned. Where did the friction zone on those begin and end? Did you own any of them since brand new? If not, maybe they had stretched clutch cables or nobody ever adjusted the freeplay slop. Oh and, the Hayabusa has a hydraulic clutch, so totally different feel (apples and oranges comparison).

I’ve had 5 Savages/S40s and they all had the friction zone start at about 3/4 of the way from the grip. Full clutch engagement is virtually at the end of the lever (minus the freeplay I adjusted to). My Honda Shadow 750 and Kawasaki Vulcan S 650 are the same.

If you just feel like opening up the engine and inspecting the clutch and push rod, go for it. I sent to a link above where you can get parts.

Title: Re: New clutch time
Post by Peter Fonda on 06/01/25 at 07:23:07

Well maybe this or these type of bikes are setup different cuz almost every bike I’ve rode you’d feel the clutch grab about 1/4 way out when letting the lever out and then about 3/4 ways out would end of friction zone. Last 1/4 was free play like and no the bikes I’ve had before have been used when I had them