|
SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> The Cafe >> Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1737483815 Message started by Dave on 01/21/25 at 10:23:35 |
|
Title: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 01/21/25 at 10:23:35 Somewhere around 2009 I bought a small 4x8 trailer with a 4' height to haul my trials motorcycle around.....and to sleep in. Not long after that in 2012 I got my Savage and used the trailer to go from Kentucky to Long Island to pick up the motorcycle. It was a long trip and I had to sleep in the trailer 2 nights on the trip. Even though the trailer was only 4' wide I had room to sleep by putting the Savage over to one side. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 01/21/25 at 10:30:33 The small size of the trailer was a huge advantage, as my little 4 cylinder Pontiac Vibe could pull it without straining too much. I removed the standard spring axle and got a low torsion axle that provide a deck height only 11" off the ground. The manual transmission was shifted a lot when pulling the trailer - if I kept the engine above 3,000 rpm on the hills it did a good job of pulling the hill. Even on Jellico Mountain I could almost maintain 60mph up the hill. On hills I would find a semi truck going about my speed and often tuck in behind them so I was not needlessly blocking traffic. The small trailer size was a huge benefit when traveling or camping, as I could park just about anywhere. At campsites I was often just charge the same as a tent. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 01/21/25 at 10:38:03 When I bought the trailer it had windows with screens as the previous owner used it to haul show rabbits all over the country. As time went on I spruced things up and added curtains, an electrical outlet that could be plugged in when the campsite had power....I could charge my USB devices and also plug in a small heater if needed. I have camped into the 50's without a heater - a few nights I slept in my driveway when the temps got really cold and used a heater just to see what was comfortable. I have slept in it overnight at 9 degrees by bundling up and using a sleeping bag and blankets - however my breath left a thick coating of ice and frost on the inside of the camper (This trailer is not insulated). I bought a foam pad and a local lady made me a cover for it - the pad was leaned up against the wall and secured with bungee cords when I traveled. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 01/21/25 at 10:43:58 The little trailer has been to Long Island, Pennsylvania, Georgia, Tennessee, North Carolina, Ohio and every state between Kentucky and Texas twice. One year we towed the trailer with my Vibe and we discovered that although the car could do it well - the Vibe just wasn't all that comfortable for such a long trip. The next year we used Deb's small SUV to haul it and it did just fine. It did not get as good of fuel mileage as my Vibe - but it also didn't slow down going up the hills and was far more comfortable! |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 01/21/25 at 10:50:15 I had this trailer for about 12 years and put about 30,000 miles on it. I stayed at campgrounds and used the available showers and bathrooms. For food I would just take a cooler and put lunch meat and yogurt for breakfast and my drinks. The campgrounds always had bagged ice available. The Savage fit in just fine, the F800 required me to remove the windshield and that took about 15 minutes to complete. My bigger R1200 would not fit as the bodywork at the handlebars was just too tall to go through the door. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 01/21/25 at 10:52:50 The rear opening had a cargo door. This was nice for use as a camper as I could just swing the door closed when I was inside and I had an interior latch to keep it secure. I used a small ramp to get the bike in/out - it was secured to the wall at the left side floor. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 01/21/25 at 10:57:02 I also added a small toolbox on the tongue to hold the jack and tools necessary for changing a tire. I had a small space saver spare tire I tucked behind the driver seat in my car. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 01/21/25 at 11:03:18 This was a great little trailer and did a nice job of hauling the bike and providing me some simple shelter. Now that I am retired I plan on traveling more and we bought a used RV for traveling. The little trailer was just too low to the ground to tow behind the RV - so I sold it and bought a bigger 5x10 trailer that is 5' high so that I can haul any of my bikes. It has a ramp rear door and an RV style side door. (I will post more on that later). |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by JOG on 01/21/25 at 11:25:53 Nobody puts Savage in the corner. Shame on Yew! |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by ohiomoto on 01/21/25 at 16:53:49 Nice. I like that little trailer. It was perfect for how you used it. Congrats on the "upgrade". |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by jcstokes on 01/21/25 at 17:18:26 A pearl white Savage, Boulevard, S40, one of the better colours. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 01/22/25 at 04:44:06 797060677C787660130 wrote:
It was a very nice motorcycle - it was 5 years old and only had 262 miles on it when I bought it. I rode it for a year like that - then it got torn apart and converted to a Cafe' bike. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 01/22/25 at 04:51:04 Here is what my new trailer looked like when I picked it up at the factory that built it. The smaller 4x8 trailer was only 4 feet high inside and was very low to the ground with an 11" deck height....it weighed about 600 pounds. This new trailer is 5x10 and has a 15" deck height, and weighs 870 pounds (before I added insulation and paneling). This trailer has a rear door ramp to make for easier loading, and a side door with an RV style latch so I can get out of the trailer when sleeping inside. The extra height and width was very noticeable to the small Vibe. I found I was driving a gear lower while hauling it home - the extra wind resistance of the higher/wider trailer was noticeable at highway speeds. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 01/22/25 at 04:53:49 This is what the inside of the trailer looked like when I got it home. I put the big bike inside to make sure it fits....it fits fine but doesn't leave a lot of room for hauling anything else. It is nice that I don't have to remove the luggage, as those take up a lot of room when hauling them off the bike. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 01/22/25 at 04:56:46 This is what the inside looked like after I insulated the walls and ceiling, installed windows that open and have bug screens, added thin Mahogany plywood to the walls and ceiling for a cleaner look, installed a ceiling fan, and put Monster Liner on the floor and ramp. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by ThumperPaul on 01/22/25 at 05:01:35 I like it, Dave. I really want one, but subdivision living creates a storage issue. I live at the end of a cul-da-sac, so I was able to install a double gate on one side of the house (about 10’ wide). That let me store an 18’ boat in the backyard for the 2 years I had it. It was tight between the houses and my good neighbor was ok with me occasionally trenching a rut down the property line to back it in there. The boat was low enough to hide below the 6’ privacy fence so the HOA left me alone. If they could have seen it from the street, I would have got a letter and told to remove it in 30 days. If I get a toy hauler, I want it at least 6’ tall inside and that would make it visible from the street. I may forge ahead and get one anyway, but most likely it won’t happen until my wife retires in 2-3 years and we buy a property/home in the “country”. When you added electric, did you install an RV style breaker panel? Trying to think of the best way to do that. On our last 3 camping trips, we’ve lost 3 tents and a canopy due to high winds and thunderstorms. I’m pretty tired of that. The wife says we are buying a new tent this year and I’m saying we’ll find campsites with small cabins. The toy hauler/camper would be a nice compromise and great excuse to bring a bike. I’m thinking 5x10 with a low ramp and side door. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 01/22/25 at 05:08:06 This shows the shelves I added in the V nose for storage. The shelves slide into slots that are cut into the support wood, and the shelves can be removed if needed by taking out a few screws on the fascia boards and sliding out the shelves. The bungee cords are there just to help hold things in place while traveling. The trailer has a couple of 110V outlets inside that are wired to an exterior plug. The black box on the left bottom is a NOCO battery charger/maintainer that is specifically for charging RV style batteries. The lights in the trailer are LED 12V lights that are run from a battery box mounted on the tongue of the trailer. There is also a battery voltage display and lighter socket at the top shelf. I have intentionally made the inside of the trailer to run from 12v so that I don't need an inverter to change the 12V to 120v to run my lights. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 01/22/25 at 05:21:17 This is the inside with the LED lights on and the wheel chock in place. I have since added a steel bar across the floor at the beginning of the V nose to hold the wheel chock in place. The carpet runner keeps the rubber feet on the wheel chock and motorcycle tires from staining the floor black (something that happened on my previous trailer floor). When I go camping I also take a 10x10 pop up awning and park the motorcycle under it at night or on those raining days! For sleeping I now use an inflatable air mattress and just lay it on the floor. I have tried this camper out in my driveway during cold weather to see what it takes to keep me comfortable. On a 10 degree night I found out that a 500 watt heater is just not enough to keep the inside comfortable and I got cold. A few nights later I tried with a 1,300 watt heater and it got too warm after a couple of hours....I could have fooled around with the thermostat a bit and got it right - but at that point I proved it was possible and I went inside to sleep! The walls and ceiling warmed up and did not feel cold when I put my hand on them - however the floor never did warm up and was very cold. I did insulate the floor underneath - however it is 3/4" thick and in full contact with the aluminum framework underneath, and I just don't believe it will ever get warm when the weather is really cold. The air mattress on top of the cold floor did a good job of keeping the cold from getting up to my sleeping bag. I do crack the windows a slight amount to keep the moisture from building up inside the trailer while I am sleeping...that does require a bit more heat to compensate for the loss of heat out the window. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by ThumperPaul on 01/22/25 at 06:21:11 Lots of great ideas. What is the ‘opening’ in the roof? Since most of our camping is in the south in the summer, I want a 5-6k BTU window AC unit more than heat. Set it up to easily install once at camp and be able to remove for rolling down the road. Sleeping in an 80-85° tent can get a bit sticky, and I like my creature comforts more and more the older I get. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 01/22/25 at 09:34:39 1C203D25382D3A18293D24480 wrote:
The opening at the top is a vent with a fan. It is a MaxxAir fan with a low profile/rain proof cover. You can leave it open and the rain will not come in. The fan has 4 speeds and it is very quiet on the lower settings. Most of my summer travels are to the area around TN/NC/GA area in the Blue Ridge/Smoky Mountains, and even in the summer when daytime temperatures get into the 90's the night temperatures are cool enough for reasonable for sleeping. The ceiling fan will provide enough air flow for the summer nights. Adding AC to a camping trailer is not incredibly easy. The RV style roof mounted ones are expensive, heavy and very noisy. They are also far too powerful for a small trailer and will cycle ON/OFF continually. Using a small residential style window AC can be done - it takes a bit to adapt them to a small camping trailer (unless you just mount it in the wall and let it poke out the side of the trailer). There are a lot of videos on YouTube that show how to install one of these inside the camper bodywork and build duct work to run the hot and cold air where it needs to go - and it is a bit of an issue to get it done correctly so that the trailer will remain waterproof when towing it down the highway during rain or wet roads....as the trailer must have large vents cut into the walls. Using the portable AC units appears to be easier to me - they just need a hole cut for the exhaust air and that is easy to do and seal up while traveling. You can even place the AC unit outside and run the cooling air hose to the trailer on some models. There is a fellow who camps at the Cherohala campground who has a window until he built into the left front wall of the trailer. He has a rectangular plastic tote that he attaches over the AC when traveling to protect the AC from the elements - the tote is also in place when he is not using the AC. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by ThumperPaul on 01/22/25 at 10:49:39 Thanks Dave. The AC window unit is preferred. I know the rooftop rv type are expensive. My idea is to cut an opening (call it a window) in the side that can also be closed up with a makeshift piece of plexiglass, frame, and weatherstripping (or something like that) window when the AC unit isn’t installed and when rolling down the road. Your ceiling fan/vent is great. Warm or cold, circulation and fresh air is good. All this talk makes me want to do it! And before my wife tells me to buy another tent! [ch9978][ch65039] I can’t complain - at least my wife likes tent camping and the outdoors (and she owned a Sportster and an Intruder back in the day). She’s more of a bada$$ than me. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 01/22/25 at 13:30:50 1D213C24392C3B19283C25490 wrote:
Watch YouTube videos on converting trailers and you will see lots of good ideas. There are hatches/doors available that can be opened and swing out of the way - and you can then install the window AC unit. When done you can pull out the AC and just close the hatch. You can buy small AC units pretty cheaply, and they are plenty big enough for a small camper. Here is an example of the portable unit installation. Portable units come with either a single or double hose. The single hose pulls air from inside the room and blows the hot exhaust out - the double unit pulls air from outside the unit and then blows the hot air out. You can easily install two holes in the floor or wall to vent the hoses and close them up when you remove the AC unit. RV and boat retailers have a good selection of round access ports with lids that cover the hole when not in use. Or a PVC pipe with a cap would work. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=awrlPIaiNbc [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=awrlPIaiNbc[/media] |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by ThumperPaul on 01/22/25 at 14:57:52 Thanks Dave. Appreciate the video of the install. We have 2 small window units in our home. They are cheap and part of our hurricane preparedness to run on the generator. A small 6k BTU unit is plenty - actually impressive how much square footage we can cool down in the house when we have to. Looking online at trailers today, I may opt for a standard rear door and just use a ATV ramp to load and unload. Ramp doors aren't as common and thinking about it - kinda clumsy. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 01/23/25 at 06:47:33 One huge consideration for what you need in your trailer is how you intend to use it. For me the trailer is used to haul the motorcycle and my riding gear to and from the riding site and protect it from the elements - the motorcycle is clean, dry and secure while traveling. The trailer also serves as my sleeping area once I get to the riding area....and I park at a campground/resort that provides a bath house/bathroom. Most often I do not have access to 110V "shore power" - and that is fine as I do not cook food or use AC or need heat. I have not ever needed to "boondock" for extended periods of time - my rides take me to places I can get food and drink. My riding is done in a climate where daytime temperatures can be in the 90's but cool down to the 70's in the summer - fall and winter riding can have overnight temperatures drop into the 50's....that is very comfortable sleeping inside the camper without any AC or heat needed. A small amount of battery power provides the power I need to run the ceiling fan and charge my USB devices for several days.....I do have a 100 watt solar panel that I can use (and if needed I do have a small 2,400 watt inverter/generator that I could use. If you are going to be using your trailer in hotter/colder climates or using the trailer for actual "living" while traveling - your needs are going to be far different. Having heat/AC, a water supply, a bathroom and the ability to refrigerate food and cook adds considerably to what you need in your trailer........and including your wife on the trip really makes a difference and requires a lot bigger trailer to provide sleeping areas for 2 people. Running AC, a microwave, a fridge, heat, etc. really ramps up the system you need to provide power. If you want a trailer/camper that has AC/heat/water/bathroom, etc. that provides a comfortable living space.....and is more than just a "rigid tent" - you should consider trying to find a good used commercially made toy hauler. We bought a used one for $11,000 and used it for a couple of years, and sold it for what we paid - it wasn't a break even event as I had to install new tires, bought a cover for off season storage, and sold it with a water hose and other essentials I had purchased. Doing this will often get you a fully functional camper that is likely more reliable and comfortable than anything you can build, and it doesn't require you to spend a lot of time fabricating something. Our toyhauler was 23' long and was a Greywolf 19RR. It was towable with a 1/2 ton truck and was a comfortable living space for two people. With the motorcycle inside the only thing we lost was the dining room table - we could camp comfortably on while traveling with the motorcycle inside. It did not have a generator so we could not use the AC, TV or microwave if we were not plugged in at a campsite - however the 12V battery could power the lights propane furnace, water heater and cook top/oven for several days. While traveling to our destination we could overnight at Cracker Barrel, Walmart, Rest Areas, etc without paying for camping. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/584927901134198/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A668d4490-7c0e-4f96-9628-e0a24c1f057c NOTE: The only big problem I had with the Greywolf 19RR toyhauler I had was the deck height was very high. Using the rear ramp was very difficult with the stock ramp as it was very steep. I had to build a ramp extension that provided a longer ramp for loading my 500-600 pound street bikes. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by ThumperPaul on 01/23/25 at 07:21:42 The wife and I are still considering a traditional RV trailer with all the amenities. But until she retires and we can take longer trips, it’s not a practical choice and then there is the storage issue living in a subdivision. I’m not paying $100+ per month to store it somewhere and only use it 2 weeks a year. And I can’t put a motorcycle inside it. So for now, I am selfishly looking at a “toy hauler” to transport a bike and serve as a glorified tent and be able to hide it in the backyard out of the HOA’s sight. It’s safe to say that our primitive camping days are over. We always look for water and electric on site. We have plenty of outdoor cooking equipment, so not really concerned with that. Having basic electric and an AC window unit would be “glamping” for us. I have to weight all this against just finding campsites with basic cabins and renting a motorcycle trailer from u-haul as needed. The uhaul trailers aren’t enclosed, but with only occasional use it’s not a big deal to me. That said, I do like a clean bike that’s kept protected from the elements. I have a motorcycle cover once at location (with some extra “packaging effort”, it could probably be used while towing). Maybe we just buy another tent for campsites that don’t have cabins. But I still like thinking about a lightly modified toy hauler. No, I really don’t want to make a major project out of this or spend a bunch of money doing it. Thanks for helping me think out loud about it. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by ohiomoto on 01/23/25 at 09:16:43 I've built out two sprinter vans for travel (I sold the first one). We keep our camping, hiking, biking, ski equipment along with inflatable kayaks stored under the bed. I have a hitch rack for hauling our motorcycle or scooter. It suits our needs perfectly. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 01/23/25 at 09:22:10 The next issue I want to discuss is weight and wind resistance. Having the smallest trailer you can get by with helps a lot to keep your fuel mileage and travel time efficient. My first trailer was just big enough to get the job done - it could haul all but my biggest bike and had enough room to change clothes and sleep in. The 4 foot height that helped with reducing drag prevented you from standing up inside - when loading the bike you needed to lean over and duck, and when changing clothes it was done sitting down or kneeling. My newer trailer is a foot taller and a foot wider inside the trailer, and the roof is likely 1.5 feet higher - it had noticeably more air drag. So many of the people who transform a cargo trailer to a camper don't seem to worry much about how much weight they are adding. I have seen conversions where they install wood boards for the roof and wall covering, install wood flooring and cabinets - it can add up very quickly and make the trailer harder to pull. The Discovery trailer I made is claimed to weigh 970 pounds by the manufacturer. I borrowed some chassis scales from a friend who makes race cars to see what my trailer weighed after I made changes so I could see what it weighed. I also wanted to see what the tongue and axle weights were so I could know where to position the bike inside (My goal was to achieve a bit over 10% tongue weight). After I added a floor coating, insulated the walls and ceiling, added windows, added wiring and a battery box, and added the thin Mahogany paneling on the walls and ceilings the chassis scale showed this: Total weight 1,187 pounds. Axle 1,042 pounds. Tongue 145 pounds. Tongue weight 12% When I add the wheel chock inside and put a battery in the box: Total weight 1,227. Axle 1,060 pounds. Tongue 179 pounds. Tongue weight 15% With the battery and F800 positioned for good tongue weight: Total weight 1,750 pounds. Axle 1,539 pounds. Tongue 215 pounds. Tongue weight 12% With battery and R1200 positioned for good tongue weight: Total weight 1,835 pounds. Axle 1,599 pounds. Tongue 236 pounds. Tongue weight 12.5%. These weights are well below the 3,500 pound axle rating, and the hitch restrictions are less than the 500 pound tongue weight/5,000 pound pulling weight that the hitch is rated for on my tow vehicle. I try to avoid having too much tongue weight as the ride suffers and the headlights shine too high when the rear end squats excessively. I put the battery box on the tongue rather than inside the trailer - as lead acid batteries expel gases when they are charging. This does add 34 pounds to the tongue weight. While this doesn't make much difference to the tow vehicle - it does make a lot of difference if you are trying to hook up the empty trailer to the tow vehicle by lifting the tongue up and setting it on the hitch. Lifting 145 pounds is closer to my ability than 179 pounds is - so next time I need a battery I may go with a Lithium battery to cut down on the tongue weight a bit. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 01/23/25 at 09:48:15 7B475A425F4A5D7F4E5A432F0 wrote:
If you looking for an interim solution - I suggest you go cheap/small for until you (and the wife) need something bigger. Get a used 5x8 cargo trailer with a 5' height. Find the cheapest one you can get that is in good shape and doesn't leak. If it has a ramp rear door you will need a side door to use while camping inside - if it has cargo rear doors you can use them while you are inside sleeping by installing a latch inside. You can insulate the walls and ceiling, install a vent fan in the roof and do some basic wiring for power. If you need AC you can do a simple opening in the rear door that allows you to install the AC when parked - it could be removed for travel. A 5x8 trailer can easily be moved into your back yard if they are allowed to be parked there by your HOA.....or you might be able to find a friend or relative who will allow you to park it on their property. Look at YouTube videos and you will be amazed what folks have done with these small trailers. And really - my little 4x8 trailer was a great trailer for the 12 years that I owned it. It could be parked sideways in the back of my garage and I still had room to park my Vibe in the garage. For a single person hauling the motorcycle and camping single - it has plenty of room for hauling all but the biggest motorcycles and worked great! I bought it used for $1,000 and it was one of the best investments I have ever made! My small 4x8 trailer was |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 01/23/25 at 09:56:19 I found a photo of a ramp extension that is needed for some toy haulers. The high deck height makes the rear ramp overly steep and unsafe for loading large motorcycles safely - your feet cannot touch the ground when the front wheel is on the ramp and the back wheel is no the ground. The steep ramp also makes it impossible to back the bike down and hold it with the front brake, as the front wheel just slides down the ramp. This photo is the same folding ramp that I bought from Harbor Freight, and he is using jacks and some boards to elevate the ramp. I built folding legs that held the ramp extension up and also supported the trailer ramp. It took several days to build it, and it had to be stored vertical at the back of the camper when traveling. NOTE: When using a ramp like this and "riding" the motorcycle up - you need to use straps to secure the ramp to the trailer or truck. When the rear wheel gets on the ramp - the driving force can kick the ramp backwards....and you come crashing down! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Zslzmp_WQA [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Zslzmp_WQA[/media] |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by MMRanch on 01/23/25 at 21:15:12 Hay Dave That is the same AC unit I picked up. It fits in the middle of the floor with a Dryer Vent hose guiding the hot air out ! We got it for working over at our son's house last summer and saw how easy it is ! :) The Diesel Heater exaust is easy in my tractor shed but the same Diesel Heater in the Trailer is going to heat the exaust pipe up a lot to much to rest against anything but metal. I'm thinking it needs a "heat Sink" like a small radiator before it get to the floor/wall to exit , what have you thought of ? |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 01/24/25 at 03:49:21 MM: Glad you could join the party! I watched a video last night where a fellow mounted the diesel heater on the floor underneath the cabinet he built in the V-Nose. He cut out a small square of the wooden floor and used a metal plate and some sort of a baffle. When I saw that little baffle it looked a lot like the little fitting you install in the bottom of a rain gutter to connect the downspout. This fellow intentionally made his conversion spartan so that they can move things around and use the small trailer as needed. They did not install permanent beds and used some very nice cots for sleeping. The two things I think he did not address for those traveling with a wife is having a toilet - and a place to hang clothing. Both of those are easily corrected. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x8wR7AOlrF8 [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x8wR7AOlrF8[/media] One thing the fellow didn't mention in his video - is that he painted the bottom of the wood floor. I believe this is important and will help keep the trailer floor from absorbing moisture. The first time I used my trailer to camp was at the Iron Horse campground and it was parked in grass. When I got home I saw that the wood floor had expanded and pushed the sealant at the joint upward and made a bulge in my fancy Monsterliner floor coating. Since then I have painted the bottom of the floor with enamel paint and also placed sheets of foam insulation and caulked the seams. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 01/24/25 at 04:32:19 6067666062607B600F0 wrote:
That looks very nice! I know the Sprinter Van would be far more comfortable to drive than the big RV we bought, and it would also be able to keep up with traffic on hills! For camping with the wife, dog and cat we needed something bigger. I get up hours earlier than my wife and I needed a dining room area where I could sit and cruise the internet until she gets up. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by ThumperPaul on 01/24/25 at 05:40:17 Hey, there’s MM! He found the right trail now! For weight distribution, I’ve always just roughly followed the U-Haul recommendation of 60% of weight in front of the trailer axle. That’s worked well without any problems. My 1/2 ton Ford F150 with a 3.7L V6 does fine for towing. A 6x12 fully loaded is no problem. At 60-65mph while towing, gas mileage drops down from about 20mph to 15mph. As we all know, fuel mileage claims provided by the powers that be are grossly overstated. If I totally behave and drive a slow 60mph without a trailer, the best I have gotten is about 20.5mpg. Size and weight is something I’m definitely considering though (especially if I try to store it in the backyard out of HOA sight). Here’s a random question…. Is the left side of a trailer the same as a car or motorcycle? ;) No wonder boats have Port and Starboard (for people like me!). For the AC unit, a traditional window unit makes sense to me. It doesn’t take up any floor space or require any special condensate or heat removal. Cut an opening in the side, frame it with support, and be able to remove the AC unit while driving (install a piece of plexiglass or something to enclose it when the AC unit isn’t installed). What am I missing? That’s what a guy I know did on his totally homemade mini trailer camper. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by ThumperPaul on 01/24/25 at 05:55:23 5A5D5C5A585A415A350 wrote:
OhioMoto: Very nice! Well done! |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 01/24/25 at 06:56:39 003C213924312604352138540 wrote:
I really don't want to put an additional opening in the side of my trailer. I really don't need AC where I take the trailer to ride - so the needs in the mountains up here are far different than what you need in Texas. There have been a few times I have been hot at night in my little trailer - but it did not have a ceiling vent and a little airflow would have helped significantly. When I was still working I often would leave a Council Meeting and head to the mountains after the meeting was over - sometimes it was 9PM or later when I got to start the 7 hour drive. One time I left and the daytime temperatures had been in the 90's with bright sun all day. I got to Alcoa and it was about 2AM and I really wanted to stop and sleep, as it was another hour to the campground area and the route took me over the Tail of the Dragon. I just wasn't anxious to drive the Dragon with a car and trailer late at night - especially since I had been up for 20 hours. I pulled over at the Walmart parking lot and climbed into the back of my trailer to get some sleep. The deck of the trailer was only 11 inches above the blacktop parking lot - and that same asphalt had been soaking up the sun all day long. The radiant heat coming off the parking lot made the inside of the trailer like an oven!!!!! It was impossible to get any sleep - so I got back in the car and drove another hour until I reached Deals Gap. Once in the mountains the temperature was down in the 60's and I had no trouble sleeping. Being able to make an opening that looks good both inside and outside when the AC is not installed is not something that is easy to accomplish. I have watched a lot of videos on YouTube prior to building my trailer - and I haven't seen one that I liked and would be happy with. For heat when I don't have a 120v connection I think this could be the way to go. It is very portable and could even be used to heat the house during a power outage (provided you have a 12V battery to power the unit). I could cut a hole in the V nose floor for the heat hose - the hole would include a cap so I could cover the hole when not in use. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yA8M2c2UIgQ [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yA8M2c2UIgQ[/media] |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by ThumperPaul on 01/24/25 at 07:49:51 Our needs in Texas are definitely different than in the mountains or up north. I don't see us ever needing HEAT. Just avoid camping in Jan/Feb. I guess, in my mind, I'm oversimplifying creating an opening for a window AC unit. I'll do more research if I decide to get a toy hauler. I don't want it to look like crap, but appearance is less important than function. Something like this doesn't bother me. Except it should be closer to the top than the floor. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by ohiomoto on 01/24/25 at 10:01:15 Thanks the complements. I think the RV vs. trailer vs camper van vs whatever else really depends on how you use your rig. I don't believe there is a right way or a wrong way. You just need to figure out what works for your use case. Our van has everything we need in a minimal foot print. It works for us because we spend most of our time outside of the van and it's comfortable enough that we can survive being stuck inside for a day or two before we want to kill each other. Luckily, that has only happened to us once since we built our first van in 2019 and she didn't kill me. ;) |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by ohiomoto on 01/24/25 at 10:17:55 If there is an interest, I would be happy to share how we built our van, what works, what doesn't work, why we choose some of the "systems" we used, etc. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by MMRanch on 01/24/25 at 23:11:50 One of the u tube video's folks had the regular window AC units on the floor with the fridge sitting on top of it with it's back vented out the wall , it was in a little cabinet. That tall AC tower that stands in the middle of the floor and runs a 3" hose over to the window works great ... and ... the same vent hole can be used for the Diesel Heater for heat coming in for cold weather - The exaust pipe is only about 1.25" metal exaust pipe , if you didn't want to leave the entire heater outside under floor. The cooling and heating is easy. ! ;) They havent called me to come pick it up yet . |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 01/25/25 at 05:29:09 I really like the way this fellow built his fold up beds. The video is a bit cumbersome to watch - but the work is great. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WcmWZzWTDI0&t=1106s [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WcmWZzWTDI0&t=1106s[/media] I am still going to use my inflatable mattress on the floor - but if you want a bed that folds up to the wall this is a nice way to do it. The only downside that I can see is the top bed is pretty darn high - but the height is necessary to allow for the width of the bottom bed. In this camper he could not lower the bottom bunk, as it had to be above the internal fender of the trailer. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by ThumperPaul on 01/25/25 at 06:59:13 At least I can see the floor supports for this fold up bed. When I made my comment about the Murphy beds, I guess I didn’t look close enough because it appeared they were just hanging on the wall. OhioMoto - My wife and I resemble those remarks. I’m guessing my survival rate stuck in a 5’x10’ box with her is about 10 hours max. More like 4 hours without AC. MM - The dual purpose capability of the setup for AC/Heat makes it more practical. I can see that now. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 01/25/25 at 07:40:33 There are the type of access ports that can be put in the floor or walls. This is a 4", and you can find them in other sizes. You can put the heater outside and run the heat hose inside - or you can use your portable AC and run the hose outside. And when you don't need a heater or AC - you just leave them home. https://www.etrailer.com/Boat-Accessories/Seaflo/SE23FR.html?feed=npn&srsltid=AfmBOoqlAs1XYPsYpDIEOeyY1-srU_MvOnn3DkuNjP55L1BrEq7fRffOpwA&gQT=1 |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by ThumperPaul on 01/25/25 at 09:13:40 This is kinda what I have in mind. Newer, looks clean, unmolested clean slate, ramp door and side door, priced decently. https://www.facebook.com/share/12FpFpJkX8c/?mibextid=wwXIfr |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by MMRanch on 01/25/25 at 09:35:04 MM - The dual purpose capability of the setup for AC/Heat makes it more practical. I can see that now. OH Yea ! One hole for all uses ! :) I use one of those Diesel Heater in my Tractor Shed , this is the first year . It's real easy on fuel , its all inside one metal box , about 5 quart plastic fuel tank . requires 12 volts (10 amp fuse) and it runs 10 to 15 hours depends on how much you ask out of it. I got it off ebay. The AC came from Lowes , after knowing about this one It seems silly to even think about any other cooling method ! ;) https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hisense-7000-BTU-DOE-115-Volt-White-Vented-Wi-Fi-enabled-Portable-Air-Conditioner-with-Remote-Cools-299-sq-ft/5005337835 ........................................................... I'm itching to go pick it up and bring it home ! ::) I wanted to get a 5'x10'x72" with a side door but it was a lot easier to get the same thing in 6' wide . The 5' wide with a side door was the hard part. My 2017 - Colorado is rated at 27mpg and most of the time does better. I've got a cattle trailer that when it's full of cow will bring that fuel millage down to 15mpg with no problem ! ;D ;D |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by ThumperPaul on 01/25/25 at 12:08:35 That looks just like a dehumidifier that I bought when I renovated a house. That thing could give off some heat. Good for a cool damp basement. I was using it in February so it worked out ok giving off some heat. I was using it to get rid of some musty smell and part of a mold remediation process. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 01/25/25 at 17:19:26 Well the portable AC and a dehumidifier have a lot in common - but the end result is different. In the dehumidifier the incoming room air hits the cold coils and the moisture drops out - then the air hits the hot coils and the air come out hot. In the portable AC unit the incoming room air hits the cool coils and is then blown into the room - while the air blowing over the hot coils is blown outside through the exhaust hose. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by ThumperPaul on 01/25/25 at 17:48:12 5A616C7B6A667D7B6068657A090 wrote:
Yup. Exactly. Just saying my dehumidifier looks virtually identical. I use it in the garage occasionally when it’s cold (cooler) and damp in there. Like today. And then run the little oil radiator heater with a fan blowing across it. I can get it pretty comfortable in there with low electricity usage. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by MMRanch on 01/25/25 at 18:57:12 Yes sir Paul , that thing gathers up the Hot Air in the room and shoves it into the 4" pipe and a window attachment comes with it to fasten the pipe to kind of like the window fan attachment from when we were kids. :) That makes me think about poking a hole in the roof for a vent. To POKE a hole in a roof that is prone to leak anyway is a little disturbing. I'm sure most folks can do it with no problem . I'm not taking the chance . I think the AC and an Exit hole for the pipe hauling the heat out. How about one of these - high on the rear back wall ? https://www.ebay.com/itm/295736666840?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D264183%26meid%3D8dba146556a44d5cad92b3cdc0517d0e%26pid%3D101196%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D7%26sd%3D404848721446%26itm%3D295736666840%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2332490%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWebWithBBEV2bAndUBSourceDemotionWithUltimatelyBoughtOfCoviewV1%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2332490.c101196.m2219&itmprp=cksum%3A2957366668408dba146556a44d5cad92b3cdc0517d0e%7Cenc%3AAQAJAAABQJh9BGsXvPG03pKg78mUhLLErCJ%252BXOEYDkzTGJ85B4rSRXG6DGHfiL9UFpXuaOk%252FmuXW6x51j8YJMfy7doeYuyk9WZaRPkl%252FLlHN84X3%252FeYgVG3iucUQjkVp9Lf5uEN8TsikqC7xuRmFmkn2pc7mkNOYXavjSQf%252FjQ%252F1IXrJ3R2zX%252F0rQMB6QlzTHRgOLTVi2d3kgP81geIMdtx4fUa0uAbW6AqEa3eORGOop2pQdM78IXyRCHE0JvfSz3UM0aJOJ7zAecyALSzoZ4VebKJcFoQ9v4r%252FFW1%252BxLcExCUtMrVJx%252FeWagmkmDfHTjEJta2GMhdNIYeBo9aOkKfrEAGCYZxQuss6WV5DgzQuA%252BnRQiMwogF8C1cVEyNxzQrVe1mASmx2jJmGdPqCuiD8xe%252BVX%252Bad9NKp5pPO%252BdAU6ArnTOR7%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2332490&itmmeta=01JJG8RGFQQZNY7GR5SEZGPJ0W ....................................................... Somehow this seems like a good idea but I don't know how yet ? https://www.ebay.com/itm/156584890285?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110018%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.COMPLISTINGS%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D264183%26meid%3D6b68c452ff6d4edfb7753b6adc2e0eb4%26pid%3D101196%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D365174229509%26itm%3D156584890285%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2332490%26algv%3DCompVIDesktopATF2V6%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2332490.c101196.m2219&itmprp=cksum%3A1565848902856b68c452ff6d4edfb7753b6adc2e0eb4%7Cenc%3AAQAJAAABILx1mZQ2L9jLv%252BUPTFTna8XcGfl2wNJcn022gtZb5sDiT1gLSZ78EXXOKHESou%252Fh3C1Zw8udsGB%252BKfxyTbwEQE3gKbRgqHeMI2kApjWQXpCbKT1QGv6unaNbH3kUV8sTCyo4Lg0TAlFKGxHW2Nu9XySJxPdrr7xN1PnbkjfSqVlcrBEeU%252FSXgXcIBZGTTguLFQ3LV5sn78bkTyrUwGAcZIpVxVGQ8h3tpd5AgkC8GposEPYyQUJ2OnEBZwnRJHFgreBGcCohh9Cw4d9RTOI5p8m4oZBTSJHnLjjOmNoApz5LKKB9YZD5XO%252BElKVm08AB%252B23MubqZDH2miLhggv9K0bcgNE0GU3jTuE9lWIDnLmSGbyVHg2%252BcT5BbQYzQVvzLJw%253D%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2332490&itmmeta=01JJG9KDFJ8NG215G5NCKVAXJD |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by MMRanch on 01/25/25 at 19:51:30 Hay , I may be thinking ahead a bit ... considering I don't have a trailer to build yet , but I do have plenty of inverters ! I'm looking at charge controllers and came across this one that looks a lot like the one Harbor Freight has but is a lot less money. I know enough to think "when the seller says 100 Amps that is 100 amp at 12 volts or 1200 watts? https://www.ebay.com/itm/305757939694?_skw=600+watt+Solar+Panel+Battery+Charge+Controller+12V%2F24V+LCD+Regulator+Auto+Dual+USB+US&itmmeta=01JJGAVBXAYG9PTZ4ZNEDFNZ5A&hash=item473097e7ee:g:J~EAAOSwZYpm0q5z&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAABMHoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKmTj00fCMlCXGt0flfyMCSS%2BVe%2FgvbEyGBzBE8OnR3pMA1%2BORpTuKRvM9QLnSc7VVP0X38yuGhSTCWwIsW5vIt9EbA2Km2tO0m3ObqxXl4AMOkoiEjcxft199HD4BGYqqr6dgitJs978DibAMI241aVeQQvxE7fFhEIf7WUnTzM1q9uK3AshEo25hxprhyIzFFCAQHFggNqlYxqly%2BBoBXM1YVLFTXWBlT0pKtkdpbBpH4Ukz86CyEUgPXIBQy%2BylOzX7jtHaPdS9Z1JObkZ3dBaB6on5SIBtwGAsG1ViTB1qT96%2BOao7yXvU1wtTp5866esEb59ciWYoQkHtP5S53ZWcRU6QpzB5iXmuLGushPr%2FyPvbpVJh17JLxfYuE9YBo%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-6-7YqUZQ What do you fellers have ? |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 01/26/25 at 03:24:01 MM: Mounting the vent in the roof is fine - the butyl sealant under the flange is waterproof, and the lap sealant you use on the outside is very durable. Their are also tape systems that are easier/neater to use than the lap sealant and are supposed to be more durable. This video shows the tape after 4 years - it was applied over the previous sealer and it would be flatter if installed on a new flange without the lap sealer underneath. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x37YvBP_NO8 [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x37YvBP_NO8[/media] Don't go cheap on this very important item. Get a good one that will be trouble free. This is the roof vent I used (although I bought a white one). The cover raises when in use, and it also serves to block any rain from entering while the cover is up. On those other style vent fans you need to install an additional cover if you don't want rain getting in - and they add considerable height to the trailer (and create a lot of wind drag when towing). The Maxxair fan has 4 speeds and uses very little power and is very quiet on the low settings https://www.amazon.com/MAXXAIR-Maxxfan-Deluxe-Cover-Built/dp/B016MWZIBU?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&gQT=1&th=1 For the hose to bring the diesel heat inside.....or the AC heat outside, use one of the round access hole ports and install it in the floor in a place that won't be in your way. For me that would be up n the V-nose beneath the shelves. They come in many sizes - this is just an example to show what is available. https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Access-Doors/JR-Products/37231025.html?feed=npn |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by ohiomoto on 01/26/25 at 05:53:20 We have Maxxair fans in our van. They are indispensable IMO. We have one in front and one in the back. Different combinations of intake and exhaust allow us to move air through the space as needed. You can go full intake/full exhaust, or create a cross-breeze that will move air in either direction. The cross-breeze capability should not be overlooked in a small space IMO. We've survived a few scorchers without AC and air movement comes in clutch when using the loo for number two. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by ThumperPaul on 01/26/25 at 06:26:55 021002101D0E010C074F0 wrote:
I’ll the first to admit that electrical stuff baffles me. What does a “solar controller” do? Simple English please. One thing about buying Chinese stuff on eBay or wherever is that the “Chinglish” descriptions are hard for me to comprehend, and if instructions are included with the item, those are even worse. For the Maxxair roof fan, it looks like it opens to about 15” tall and at about a 30° angle. When closed and flush, how tall does it protrude on the outside roof and also on the interior ceiling? A fan in the roof seems like a “must have” in Texas to get some circulation. You could probably fry bacon and eggs on the roof in the summer. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by verslagen1 on 01/26/25 at 07:52:33 5468756D7065725061756C000 wrote:
Think of it as a solar battery charger plus management. It charges the battery when the sun's out and it will yell at you when you've drained the battery. Quote:
And most are written by people with only a basic understanding of english and no comprehension of technical terms. A lot of these things are made by several mfg's and sold from thousands of vendors. While some will have different features, they're all the same so you can find manuals from several sources and may be one that has decent english. https://s3.amazonaws.com/ecodirect_docs/Solarland-USA/Solarland-USA-SLC-NR2420D-installation-manual.pdf |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by ThumperPaul on 01/26/25 at 08:21:15 Thanks Verslagen. You’re absolutely right about various sellers and the quality and readability of their instructions. I’m still being dense about what the main function of a solar controller is. Is it a fancy solar battery charger that monitors and regulates itself? Seriously, I can be very dense! |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by verslagen1 on 01/26/25 at 08:36:54 0B190B19140708050E460 wrote:
I think it's the same one I have. "when the seller says 100 Amps that is 100 amp at 12 volts or 1200 watts?" I would think that too. What you have to look for is what battery with what solar cells. 12v battery with 240w18v solar or 24v battery with 480w18v solar The solar panels you'll probably find are 100 to 120 watt 12v panels, you can use 2 of those |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 01/26/25 at 08:42:11 The Charge controller takes the power coming from the solar panels, and routes it into the battery. It doesn't let the solar panel overcharge the batteries, and it provides a way for you to see what power is going into out of the battery. This is a great video on how to size solar and what it does. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sG6bErD3ZFA [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sG6bErD3ZFA[/media] For me and mine - a solar panel would only be used to recharge the battery that is providing power for small 12V things in the camper. Things like the roof vent fan, a 12V fridge, lights, charge my cell phone, power a diesel heater if I had one, or a 12V electric blanket (more on that later). Making a camper that has solar ability to operate 110V appliances requires solar cells, a charge controller, a deep cell or Lithium battery, and a 12V/110V inverter....all of which gets to be pretty expensive and takes up a fair amount of room in the camper. I watched some tests on YouTube that folks did, and a 100AMP/Hour battery running through an 12V/100V inverter will power a 5,000 btu air conditioner for about 3 hours. Therefore the decision I have made - is that if I need 110V power to run things like a 110V heater, air conditioning, a microwave, etc. - that power is not going to come from a battery and a 12v/110V inverter....as that requires a lot of battery capacity and you will use up the power quickly. If I need to run things that take a lot of power I am either going to plug into the supply provided by the campground (shore power) - or it is going to come from a small generator. Large AC units on factory campers with electric water heaters, microwaves, etc. generally need 3,500 watt generators to get the AC unit started without overloading the generator. Campers with small AC units can normally get buy with smaller 2,200-2,400 watt inverter generators that are far less noisy. I already have a small 2,400 watt inverter/generator for use at home - so if I am going to a place I can't get 110V access I can take the generator. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by ThumperPaul on 01/26/25 at 08:50:46 Thanks for the enlightenment! I can now kinda follow this conversation about a solar controller and learn! |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 01/26/25 at 09:00:20 I have watched a few videos about this blanket. It is supposed to work very well for use when camping. It only requires 50 watts to run, and that equates to about 24 hours for a 100 amp hour battery....about 3 nights of sleep. If you have a small solar panel to recharge the battery each day - you might not need additional power supply. The blanket works best if you put it under a very good wool blanket so that the heat stays with you - and does not just dissipate to the cold air inside the trailer. It heats up slowly as it is low power - it doesn't do much good if you just lay it on your lap and expect to get warm. https://www.amazon.com/Electric-Blanket-Tailgating-Emergency-Stalwart-BLACK/dp/B006A1PGDE/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=D0BSBLW1FL5O&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.641EhI5pF_TZP-J4Q7fwxJmGwllmq_HOeIv3rUCuWM7-3h1Bu5yZfJQrbkYqZnn8Ql0jwkgmj_Re4IdqZhhDbf7BXbFa51W9rX2TuFu0uUULE_NiE7dCEArB9V9__7lRNL9SRQsZrB7_HHqRW65fwHTcJ6lT8nqhQ9nREbXzPhTwxUQz5Q7t7zwwSRwsNP-Nk4IcEg5HjpOLwiEfvBp24mhdM0dMuCw_U2zS7heQA3F86Bs4QK3_M50D-CjYiQSJEeGheW65y0D9nqu7PgckSNQE0RwmtZLezurg2645D2Y.evsWhoNCyEDDNHiOwKh5eOvsfKhR2nuMhS_SoncUzyE&dib_tag=se&keywords=12v%2Bblanket&qid=1737910406&sprefix=12v%2Bblanket%2Caps%2C162&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1 |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 01/26/25 at 12:36:21 In our previous Greywolf toy hauler/camper and our current RV - the "off grid" power needs were supplied by a pair of 100 amp hour batteries and propane. The camper had a pair of propane bottles and a single group 24 deep cell battery - the RV has a propane tank attached to the chassis and a pair of Group 24 batteries. Both had a fresh water tank, grey water tank and a black tank. When 110V power is not available, the 12V system powered the lights, vent fans and controls of the the appliances. There was no inverter to convert the 12V to 110V, as those systems are not very efficient and it is better to just use the 12V power. The fridge, water heater, stove/oven and furnace all used propane to operate. The batteries could go for several days without needing charged - the propane tanks can go for several weeks.....we tend to travel when the weather is comfortable and we don't need a lot of heat or AC. The message I am trying to convey here is that if you want all the comforts of home while traveling or camping - it takes more power than you are likely going to be able to provide with a solar panels and a battery or two. Solar panels and a battery/inverter are likely going to be able to power some lights, a fridge and charge your phone - but not much else. Running AC or heat from the battery is not sustainable. My small motorcycle camper/trailer is set up as a fancy and comfortable tent - not much more. The battery can power the little LED interior lights and the ceiling fan for a couple of nights. I believe the fan will only be used to get a bit of air flow to cool the trailer down in the evening - then shut off for most of the night. If I get into situation where I need more power to run the fan continuously or plug in an electric heater - I either need to go to a campground where I can plug in or take a generator. At Two Wheels of Suches the campers in the parking area often run generators at night to run their AC - the parking area is located a good distance away from the campground so noise is not an issue. Running a generator overnight is a problem if you are camped close to tents. (The folks we bought the RV from told us they would run the generator for a few hours every 3-4 days to charge up the batteries - and they would do it in the afternoon when most folks were out hiking or on other adventures. The onboard Onan generator is pretty loud if you are within 50' and your neighbors will be upset if you run it excessively). |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 01/26/25 at 16:02:12 The MaxxAir sticks up just slightly more than 4-3/4" when it is closed. The aluminum roofs get incredibly hot when in the direct sun. Adding an inch of insulation helps considerably to slow the heat transfer down. Some folks apply a white roof coating to reduce the temperature of the roof. This photo shows my roof vent installed, and the tidy job I did applying the sealant to the vent. If you look at the roof edges you can see the factory applied sealant at the edge of the roof is ugly. They pour a wide bead of sealant along the edge and then "mush" it down with a spatula! It really is ugly - I took a razor knife and trimmed down the parts that were overly thick and sticking up in the air. The modern trailer makers are really in a hurry and not too worried about perfection! |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by ThumperPaul on 01/26/25 at 16:21:04 Nice job, Dave! Really clean install. I like how the Maxxair is low and streamlined. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 01/26/25 at 17:12:11 Here is one reason I am not installing a 12V/120V inverter. A 1,500 watt heater with a 100 amp hour Lithium battery - gets you 1 hour of heat. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AuGXEihMUNs [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AuGXEihMUNs[/media] |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by MMRanch on 01/26/25 at 19:00:36 ;D Electric résistance heat off of a battery ain't never going to be a good idea ! A Battery running some LED lights , the fuel pump and blower fan for the Diesel Heater , a micro wave to make pop corn , a TV or a computer and a router or even a small frid. kicking on 30 times a day shouldn't be no problem. https://www.temu.com/high-quality--12v-100ah-lifepo4-battery-with-100a-bms--rvs-boats-kayaks-solar-powered-trolling-motors-g-601099839825737.html?_oak_mp_inf=EMnOtbOn1ogBGiA0ODI1ODlhZWJmMTk0OWZkODQzNTQwNmU0YTg4NmQ2ZSCy56utyjI%3D&top_gallery_url=https%3A%2F%2Fimg.kwcdn.com%2Fproduct%2Ffancy%2F5f5fd78d-3a37-4a48-82b5-3a25998fe119.jpg&spec_gallery_id=3117941167&refer_page_sn=10009&refer_source=0&freesia_scene=2&_oak_freesia_scene=2&_oak_rec_ext_1=MTA4MTg&_oak_gallery_order=1102724246%2C1257678424%2C123343538%2C393968971%2C114678551&search_key=agm%20battery%2012%20volt%20100%20ah&refer_page_el_sn=200049&refer_page_name=search_result&refer_page_id=10009_1737946185548_trch16kysr&_x_sessn_id=n7lisy02ml only 21 pounds ! ;) get two of them !! two HF-100 watt solar collectors' ($220). , one HF500W- charge controller ($75). , and some size 10 wire($30). but electric heat ain't never going to work ... a little heat pump might on a really sunny day run - a 5000 BTU unit . .... maybe Three 100 watt collectors ? :) |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by ThumperPaul on 01/27/25 at 06:56:25 Hey Look! It already has some Kawasaki green accents! It probably needs a lot of work and the title and registration are probably skipping like a bad record - only $950. Need more photos and an in-person look-see. Looking at this reminds me of a question. If I’m considering a trailer in the 6x12 size range, single axle or double axle? Double will be more stable, but greater role resistance, pull heavier, and lower mpg. My truck can handle either, but is the double axle worth it? No plans to try to load it with 3500lbs of cargo. https://www.facebook.com/share/1Ynieq63Dg/?mibextid=wwXIfr |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 01/27/25 at 07:52:37 MM: I wanted to be sure folks understand that solar panels and batteries are not going to give you unlimited power - you will not be running AC in the trailer off a battery and a couple of solar cells. A search showed a 100 watt solar cell can provide about 30 amp/hours in a day. That is with direct sunlight. So 2 solar panels will provide about 60 amp/hours a day - far short of what you can store in a pair of 100 amp/hour batteries. So with good sunny days you have 60/amp hours to use daily. A few calculations show the power will: The little Chinese diesel heater take 1-2 amps. Run time = 30 hours. A camper style fridge takes around 2 amps. Run time = 30 hours. A ceiling vent fan takes around 0.5 amps on low. Run time 120 hours. Running a microwave is not as easy as you might expect. This guy showes it takes 91 amps to run a 700 watt microwave though an inverter! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fjnqK_NviqY [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fjnqK_NviqY[/media] Paul: Keep looking - that trailer is a disaster! It says he has removed the back doors. The tires are probably old and will have to be replaced and that is expensive. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by ThumperPaul on 01/27/25 at 08:44:04 I hear you, Dave. I zoomed in on the hitch too (rust bucket). I think the seller meant he removed the rear doors to get his kayaks in there. Maybe they are completely gone. I do want something newer and unmolested. I spent some time last night looking at some of our more favorite campgrounds. Prices for RV spots are getting kinda ridiculous. I must be getting old. Generally, a site with 30 or 50 amp electric hookup run about $8-$10/day more than without electric. Not terrible, but overall prices are getting high. Most of the places are now also charging a $6-$7 per person “day use” fee in addition to the camp site. The day use fees used to be automatically included if you rented a camp site. Cabins are getting even more ridiculously expensive. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 01/27/25 at 10:42:30 Paul: The cost of camping in a tent, camper or RV can vary greatly - however I would not classify it as "cheap" in most areas. You can get by with cheap or free in some places - some of it requires you to be a bit discreet. Walmart, Cracker Barrel, most casinos, public rest areas, truck stops can all be had for free overnight while traveling to your destination. We parked at Cracker Barrel both nights on the way to Texas and both nights on the way back - Cracker Barrel restaurants are generally very close to the exit ramps and you get a lot of traffic noise from the highway. Parking lot camping pretty much just allows you to sleep for a single night, and you must not set up your outdoor chairs, extend your awning, grill outdoors, etc. (the exception being rest areas that have picnic tables and outdoor grills for you to use). With a trailer you must park with the semi trucks in most rest areas - although I have seen a few rest areas where they are now separating trucks from recreational trailers/campers. Where you park with semi trucks you should expect a lot of noise as they come and go continually, and sometimes you get parked beside the truck with a freezer or refrigerator and you get to listen to the compressor kick on and off all night. I have also been unfortunate enough to have parked in a place where the urine smell is bad - as the truckers would pee at the curb rather than walk to the restroom. If you don't have some form of bathroom facilities in your trailer you do have to have a pretty good bladder to park in places like Walmart and Cracker Barrel - unless you can find one with a nearby all night convenient store. When I know when I am going to be in a specific area I have called ahead to a church and gotten permission to park overnight in their parking lot. Parking in Police Stations and City Building parking lots may also be available - when I worked for Highland Heights we would allow people to park overnight. I have also heard that many campgrounds that have camping areas for the people who are staying at the fair - but often they have those facilities available for use when the fair is not active. Private campgrounds have become pretty expensive - it is not unusual for them to charge $80 a night for an RV spot with a full hookup. You can usually find a vacancy for an overnight trip during the week - weekends are not always available without advance planning. State Parks are far more reasonable and full hookups are often $25 or less. The spots are much harder to get during peak season without reservations far in advance. However - each state requires you to obtain a State Park Pass and it is $70 annually for Texas...and similar costs for each state. If you are only going to spend a day or two in that state it makes the daily cost much higher. Some western states have free camping on Public Lands, and the Corps of Engineers also has many free campsites available in the west. For a pickup truck and a trailer in the motorcycle areas of TN/NC/GA I have found a very reasonable way to use my camping trailer. Most of the motorcycle campgrounds have parking lots that provide room for your truck and trailer to park while you are there with a tent or renting their cabin. Most of them let me pay for a tent site and park my truck/trailer in their parking lot - but I don't set up a tent and I just sleep in my trailer. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by ThumperPaul on 01/27/25 at 11:09:06 I was simply referrring to some of our favorite State Parks here in Texas. I know you can get creative with a quick overnight stop or a nap somewhere for a short while. I was just noting that it seems like everything doubled in price in a year. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by ThumperPaul on 01/27/25 at 12:30:45 Let's go tent camping! Maybe getting blown away on hot thunderstorm night in Texas isn't so bad. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 01/27/25 at 13:08:07 734F524A5742557746524B270 wrote:
Just trying to help by providing the things I have learned about trailer camping over the last 12 years. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by ThumperPaul on 01/27/25 at 14:07:29 Quote:
:) |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by MMRanch on 01/27/25 at 20:34:52 Hay guys , I one year I rolled the bike off the pavement at the Interstate rest area in Texarkana , leaned it on the side stand and put a tarp off the low side then rolled out a sleeping bag. The next morning I woke up to a weed eater on the other side of the bathroom building ! ;D In the parking lot with a trailer might be a better idea ? :) but I was on the bike at the time ! ............................................... The Natchez Trace has 3 free hot water running campgrounds between Nashville and Natchez MS. and lots of low cost campgrounds are easy to find. I had in mind Interstate rest area parking and a ultra-light tear Drop : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TZ82rS5SQTI&t=1046s With the bike in the truck or maybe the little trailer ? |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by ThumperPaul on 01/28/25 at 04:01:03 Or you could be like my x-wife’s uncle…. He would double trailer with about a 20’ trailer and a 14’ jon boat behind his diesel pickup truck. It was impressive to watch him weave that monstrosity through the piney woods of the East Texas campground at Toledo Bend. How he ever managed to back that Jon boat down the boat ramp behind the trailer was beyond me. I have enough problems launching a boat without a trailer. The tear drop trailers are too small for me, and a main reason for a trailer is to be able to put a bike inside it and unload it myself. I’ve carried smaller bikes in the bed of the truck and it’s no fun, and I always need help with it, with or without a makeshift ramp or using the pitch of the driveway to reduce the height. Good to know about the Natchez Trace if I ever roll your way! |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 01/28/25 at 04:29:55 MM: I believe you should make your trailer/camper capable of hauling your motorcycle. Getting your motorcycle in/out of a truck bed may not be something you want to continue for too many more years - for some reason the bikes just seem to get heavier every year! If for no other reason - having the motorcycle in the trailer makes riding the bike far more convenient. If you are traveling and you want to take an afternoon ride on the bike - you can just pull the rig over, unload the bike from the trailer and go for a ride. You don't have to unhook the trailer to get access to the truck bed, and you can easily ride the bike in/out of the trailer as it is much closer to the ground and the ramp is not steep. Building a trailer that can both serve as as a camper and a way to haul your motorcycle is not difficult. Here are a couple of videos that show how others have done it. It can be done by using cots for the sleeping area - or others have built beds that fold up against the wall. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MJijyZetDDw [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MJijyZetDDw[/media] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sfy880Uah24 [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sfy880Uah24[/media] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x8wR7AOlrF8&t=1120s [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x8wR7AOlrF8&t=1120s[/media] I just found this one - this is really nicely done and includes a bathroom! You could modify the bed arrangement as needed to allow you to fit the motorcycle inside. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DHVz7QbZi4Y [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DHVz7QbZi4Y[/media] One common theme of these trailers is to use the V-nose area for the storage cabinets and utilities. You need at leas a 10' long trailer to be able haul a motorcycle and not have the wheel chock up in the V nose. You can also use a cassette toilet and have it stored up in the V nose while hauling the V nose if you want toilet access while in the trailer. I prefer a single axle trailer, as the are lighter than a double axle and you can move them around by hand - the double axle trailers are heavier and you likely will have to hook them up to your truck or tractor to move them around. I have a concrete driveway and a jack wheel on my 5x10 trailer and I can easily move it around by hand - I often move it to the front or rear garage as needed, and I can also unhook it at the campground and move it out of the way while we are camping and roll it back for hookup when we are leaving. If you do not want to build beds - this bunk bed cot is pretty cool and it can also function as a couch for sitting. It does take a fair bit of work to set it up and put it away. https://www.cabelas.com/shop/en/disc-o-bed-xl-cot-bunk-beds?ds_e=GOOGLE&ds_c=Cabelas%7CShopping%7CPMax%7CCamping%7CGeneral%7CNAud%7CGoogle%7CNMT&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAneK8BhAVEiwAoy2HYVXp6ITTf50vKyiHAEcuEMduFKOCnvvGR4OA5DvLBe8Ek3GgrFNooxoC74YQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds The last thing I wan to say is to carefully consider how wide/long/tall your trailer is. Adding length doesn't hurt fuel mileage much - width and height has a considerable affect on fuel mileage. The more frontal area your trailer has - the more wind that has to be shoved out of the way. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by MMRanch on 01/28/25 at 21:38:22 Yea Dave ... Just in case we need to bring Marcia's Jeep I need to be able to put the bike in the trailer. I've got a three trail wide ramp to ride my bike up into the truck ! It ain't no problem at all . ;) It's as easy to get the bike in the truck as it is to ride up a trailer ramp . Remember my Colorado gets 27-30 mpg running empty and is only 200HP. :) With the bike in the trailer I'd have to unload it and park it in a safe place while I sleep ? Or sleep beside it ... the trailer is 6 foot wide . I need to call the folks that are building it tomorrow and see how it coming along ? Cabinets , Sink , and Stove eye up in the "V-Section" and up high on both side seem like a good idea to me. A place for a small frid., AC and a commode is good too and an open alley-way up the middle for one bike or two 28" beds. Or some thing simular I've got an idea to build a HF 4'x8'x60" sleeper with a ramp back door and a tear drop side door , that would be a lot like the little trailer you had for so many years . Then see which one I get more use out of and sell the other one . If I make them perty enough I might even break even on fixing both of them by selling one. ? :-? |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 01/29/25 at 03:56:24 With all this camper talk - I couldn't resist the temptation to sleep in my trailer last night to test out my new $9.98 heater rated at 500 watts. https://www.homedepot.com/pep/living-zone-500-Watt-7-in-Electric-Personal-Ceramic-Space-Heater-BNT-5A/329779372?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D27E-027_023_PORT_HEATING-NA-NA-NA-PLALIA-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-NA&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D27E-027_023_PORT_HEATING-NA-NA-NA-PLALIA-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-NA-20620316828-154644226215-331451257415&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAwOe8BhCCARIsAGKeD55cOWm8AXgUF46puG2Ky4j233FkX8x67DAhOCMT-lha0LSxPtrqbBgaAqbdEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds A few months ago I tried sleeping in my camper when the temperatures dropped into the teens, and I discovered the 350 watt heater was too small and I got cold and went in the house after a few hours. A few night later I tried a 1,300 watt heater and it worked too well and I got too hot. The 1,300 watt heater does have an adjustment for room temperature that could have been adjusted - but it is just a knob without any degrees and it is a trial and error approach. The temperature last night was 37 and the temperature of the ground the trailer was parked on was 30 - as the ground is still frozen from the single digit temperatures we had last week. I put the heater in the trailer yesterday afternoon when I parked the trailer outside so the trailer had plenty of time to warm up. The temperature in the trailer was right around 64 degrees all night, and the ceiling and wall temperatures showed the same temperature when I used my infrared thermometer. The floor however was right at 56 degrees - I believe the floor stays colder as it is facing the cold ground and there are aluminum beams running across the floor that are in contact with the plywood floor. The floor has a couple of inches of foam insulation between the beams - the beams are 3" deep and therefore are exposed to the air. Wrapping the beams in foam would not be very durable as any road debris would likely just tear it off. I have considered installing a smooth bottom covering below the trailer to protect the foam and make the bottom more aerodynamic - but I will likely just leave it "as-is" because this is a trailer I use when motorcycle camping, and I sleep on a mattress and the colder floor is really not an issue. So - for my insulated 5x10 trailer it appears a 500 watt heater is a pretty good size for temps in the mid 30's - the 350 watt heater will be a good size when temps are in the mid 40's and above. Small heaters will have a tough time heating up the trailer if it is cold when you turn the heater on, and it will take hours to get the inside toasty warm. A bigger heater might be required if you want to warm things up in a hurry. For my little trailer - believe one of those diesel heaters would be too powerful and would turn the trailer into a "toaster oven". Deb doesn't understand why I go out and sleep in the trailer in my driveway when I have a nice, comfy bed inside. My response was that I need to experiment a bit to find out what works - so that when I do use the trailer I know what I need to get a good nights sleep. I hate being cold while trying to sleep! |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 01/29/25 at 04:41:48 425042505D4E414C470F0 wrote:
Depending on how you build your trailer - you may be able to sleep inside with the bike in there as well. With my 5' wide trailer I have room to move the bike a bit to one side, and I can put a pad on the floor and sleep beside the bike while traveling to the final destination. It is a bit tight - but works (you likely won't want to do this while Marcia is with you). These folks built bunks crosswise in their 6' trailer. I got into my 5' wide trailer and it feels too narrow to do this - but I believe it would work fine in a 6' wide trailer. Bunks like this would make the trailer fully functional as a cargo trailer when you need to haul something, as the beds are easily removable. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zGwy7Q-p8Ag [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zGwy7Q-p8Ag[/media] |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by ThumperPaul on 01/29/25 at 05:15:48 Only in Montana will you find a mom and pop shop dedicated to making custom tent and pipe berth bed canvas. I don’t know how places like this make it. You certainly aren’t doing it for the money, but more the lifestyle. You can’t coax Deb into testing the heaters out there with ya? Body heat would be good for another 5-10°. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 01/29/25 at 06:38:32 This is how the bottom of my trailer is insulated. It is a minimum of 1" thick foam....in the back I used some left over 2" foam from the walls. The foam was glued to the floor bottom -where the cross members are I beams there is a piece of foam inserted in the web to help support the ends of the foam. All of the foam joints have been caulked to waterpoof the bottom and also to help hold the foam in place. I did leave a small gap in the caulking to allow moisture to drain out if any gets into the foam. Although it would be possible to put in more insulation and wrap the beams and close off the entire bottom - I just don't see that it is worth it. Even if I got the entire bottom closed off - the aluminum exterior walls and studs would transfer the cold down to the floor beams, as all these structural parts are welded together and aluminum transfers heat easily. Campers and RV's just have cold floors. We have camped in some cold weather in the camper we used to own and our current RV, and they are just not well insulated like your home. The 1" of insulation in the camper just isn't as effective as the 4" (or more) of insulation in your home. When we take a shower in the camper during cold weather it is really important not to bump into the wall of the shower - that darn thing is really cold! I did see a video of a camper that has air channels in the floor to warm the floor up when the furnace is working, and I have also saw some videos of very expensive Class A campers that have heated floors. The problem is that I just don't have $188,000 to spend on a camper!!!!! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-vzj5fZJhBQ&t=546s [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-vzj5fZJhBQ&t=546s[/media] |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by ThumperPaul on 01/29/25 at 08:28:55 Nice job with the floor insulation, Dave. I agree about value, and there are no $188K RVs in my future either. Changing topics a bit, but circling back to weight distribution. How did you install your wheel chock? I'm thinking it needs to be easily removable so it doesn't become a shin-buster once the bike is out of the trailer and you're using the trailer for "living space". I don't want to be dancing around the thing. This guy put it pretty forward in his rig. This location makes sense to me. The trailer needs some sprucing up, but has some decent features. https://www.facebook.com/share/1BJisQt3kP/ I also included a link for a removable wheel chock. This Zoro place has some pretty cool, unusual, and sometimes hard to find items. https://www.zoro.com/erickson-6-removable-chrome-motorcycle-wheel-chock-07506/i/G9538323/?&msclkid=a90a6e60dd451bb409c209fa8e8a61c3&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=text_rlsa_dsa_na_na_shopping%20feed%20priority%20skus&utm_term=Automotive%20Accessories&utm_content=Top%20100k%20Impression%20Products%20%24dsa&gclid=a90a6e60dd451bb409c209fa8e8a61c3&gclsrc=3p.ds |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by MMRanch on 01/29/25 at 16:15:31 I didn't get around to calling today . I'm thinking I should have went with the 5 foot wide for the better fuel millage ! But it should be almost done by now ? ::) Like you said Dave ... sleeping side to side might be a good thing. I've seen a lot of utube video of 6'x10'x72" trailers fixed up so a couple could live in for weeks with no problem. So , Marcia and I are about to get to point in life where we can spend a week of the summer staying at a campground then moving to another campground for a week . |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 01/29/25 at 16:36:39 0B190B19140708050E460 wrote:
I think the 6 foot trailer width would be better if you are going to use it for a camper for 2 people. It gives you a lot more flexibility on how you create your camper. I used a 5 foot wide trailer as I was going to be the only one sleeping in it - when Deb comes along we will be using the RV as it has a bathroom and a comfortable mattress for Deb, and I don't need my little trailer to sleep 2 people. However - I chose the 5 foot height for exactly the reason you state - I wanted less wind resistance and better mpg. Although this won't be easy to explain and maybe even harder to understand - the V nose trailer actually get worse fuel mileage than a trailer with a gently rounded front with rounded corners. Wind hates sharp corners like the V nose trailer has, and it creates a lot of turbulence. As the wind starts to close in behind your tow vehicle it hits the angled V nose almost head on, then the wind bounces off and makes a big turbulence at the outside corner, then it comes back into the trailer a few feet back and slams into the side of the trailer again. With a slightly rounded front the wind hits head on, then flows around the corner and does not create a lot of turbulence. I think you are not going to like how much less fuel mileage you get with a trailer in tow - there is not much you can do about it. You might want to consider putting a cap on the truck bed with a small spoiler/wind deflector on the top to help with wind flow. This fellow did that with his mini van and improved his fuel mileage. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9bvaEYFTKS4&t=578s [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9bvaEYFTKS4&t=578s[/media] Airstream has been famous for making trailers that pull easily, and this new trailer is an example of what the wind prefers......a nice rounded front! |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 01/29/25 at 16:52:58 Paul: That red trailer sure looks a lot like it has horse trailer heritage - it looks heavy! The tubular wheel chocks are pretty worthless. They keep the motorcycle from moving forward if they are bolted down - but they don't do anything to hold it upright. You want a wheel chock like the Baxley Sport Chock. They are expensive and I got mine used. https://baxleycompanies.com/products/sport-chock You can also find Chines copies for less money. https://www.amazon.com/SUNROAD-Trailer-Motorcycle-Locking-Adjusting/dp/B07YF99KF5/ref=asc_df_B07YF99KF5?mcid=7d2e018876c03c2ca5288c10fd6d7045&hvocijid=14185378627535952937-B07YF99KF5-&hvexpln=73&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=721245378154&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14185378627535952937&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9014387&hvtargid=pla-2281435178338&psc=1 They can be used to hold a bike upright in your garage or trailer, and once you roll the bike in it stays upright. When mounted in your trailer you can put a single bolt through the chock to keep it from moving forward in the trailer. On my neighbors trailer we welded a nut to a small square plate and put that on the bottom of the trailer floor with some screws - we have a threaded bolt with a little metal tap so we can just screw the bolt in by hand and don't have to crawl under the trailer or use a wrench. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 01/29/25 at 16:54:24 For my trailer I made a couple of adjustable rods that bolt into the front of the wheel chock. They have holes and I use a clip to adjust how far forward the wheel chock is located. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 01/29/25 at 16:56:15 I have mounted a piece of steel rack that contractors use when installing equipment, and it is bolted to one corner of the factory installed anchor points. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 01/29/25 at 16:58:38 My wheel chock can be inserted into the rack using any of the holes to center or offset the wheel chock, and the adjustable holes in the rod let me move the wheel chock if I want to change the tongue weight. When I want the wheel chock out - it just slides out of the rack and I can move it out of the way. When the motorcycle is tied down the chock does not move side to side at all. The carpet underneath is there to keep the rubber feet from making black marks on my floor. As good as it is to tie down the front of the motorcycle - it really gets stable when you tie the back down. Have the rear tie downs either sideways or slight forward - don't have them pulling the motorcycle backwards. It also helps to have the tie downs connected to the motorcycle as high as you can. for better leverage. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by MMRanch on 01/30/25 at 09:50:54 Heating and cooling your trailer ! 8-) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l2JOUCo7iaM There is a way ! We live in a wonderful time !! But - it might take two batteries to make it through the night ? :) |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 01/30/25 at 11:03:10 MM: That is a cool mini split unit - however at 12,500 btu it is likely way too big for a small camping trailer. What will happen is it will cycle on/off constantly. It would likely work great for the room in your rock house guest room - it is too big for a 6x10 trailer. A 12,500 btu air conditioner is good for 500 square feet of house room - your trailer is only 60 square feet! While the poor insulation of a trailer may require a bit more heating and cooling than a house, it is not going to require a system that big. Talk to your HVAC buddies and ask them what problems to expect from an AC unit that is 8 sizes too big. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 01/30/25 at 12:52:02 I watched this camper build video again - and it is really nicely done. It looks like you could have the beds down and still have room for a motorcycle - especially if you narrowed down the width of the beds a little bit. And although not incredibly easy, you could still access the bunks for sleeping a night or two while traveling to your destination. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mcJqBeTNK_c&t=1s [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mcJqBeTNK_c&t=1s[/media] |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 01/30/25 at 15:36:37 Here is a nice budget build. I like the way he has used cots and hinged them to the wall....it makes it easy to store them. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e54sPTyQPTc [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e54sPTyQPTc[/media] |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by ThumperPaul on 01/30/25 at 15:39:50 Lots of good information to process here! Thanks for sharing, Dave. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by MMRanch on 02/01/25 at 19:18:31 the V nose trailer actually get worse fuel mileage than a trailer with a gently rounded front with rounded corners. Looks like I'll be slowing down a bit , but thats OK , I don't have to be in a hurry for anything. Life is better in low gear IMHO ;) ............. I think a HF 4'x8' x (under 48") tear drop might be the ideal sleeper. Maybe even FOAM BUILT ? Anybody ever try the poor mans Fiber-glass ? I kind of like the start of this one just to sleep in at the interstate rest area but if the bike would fit in it then that would be just perfect ! I think to put one of my motorcycles inside would require 60" inside so the bike is still in the truck ... but I almost always get above 25 mpg from the Colorado anyway (a trailer is going to change that -almost for sure) ::). |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by MMRanch on 02/01/25 at 19:37:26 Hay , anybody toyed with the idea of a really low low height bike trailer being pulled by a camper bed on a pick-up ? :-? ..................... I put a camper top on a little Diesel Dotsun PU I had once and my fuel millage dropped from the 48mpg that I loved to only 42mpg that I tolerated . But getting the trailer and bike dropped below the Topper Roof line being the main thing. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 02/02/25 at 04:14:10 6A786A78756669646F270 wrote:
When I got my little trailer the first thing I did was remove the spring axle and install a rubber torsion axle that lowered the height by 4" - my goal was to get the height more in line with the roof of my little Vibe (which had 1.5" lowering springs installed). My experience with the little 4x8 trailer that was 4' tall towed behind my cars was this: Vibe 32mpg on trips - 19-23 mpg with trailer (mpg varied depending on wind direction and number of big hills). It had a small 4 cylinder and 6 speed manual transmission and it did slow down to 60mph on interstate hills......it was at full throttle when coming up hills. The slower pace up hills did make the travel time a bit later, and the constant gear shifting kept me busy! However - it was a nice outfit and worked well for more than 12 years. Lincoln MKC. Wife's car with a 2.0 Ecoboost (fancy Ford Edge). This car gets 24-27 mpg on trips - it dropped to 18mpg with the small trailer behind it. This car had an automatic and it did the work of shifting, and it did not slow down on hills and we could maintain the 65 or 70mph speed limits going up the interstate hills. It was far more comfortable and stable with my little trailer behind it. I have only towed my new 5x10 trailer (5' high) to TN with my Ford Explorer once. On our trip to that area without a trailer I drove calmly and we got 31mpg - that mpg only happens on longer trips at 65-70 mph on the interstate and mid 20's is more common. On the trip to the Iron Horse campground in Stecoah (300 miles) I got 18mpg pulling the trailer with a motorcycle in it. My neighbor and I have a 7'x12' trailer that is 6' tall that can haul two bikes, and he tows it with his Ford 3/4 ton diesel truck. We just made a trip without a trailer and he got 20mpg - with the trailer behind we get 13mpg. The truck has plenty of power and never shifts out of high gear or works to pull the trailer. I have seen several pickup truck/trailer combinations in the campground that have a cap on the bed of the truck and the owners sleep in the back of the truck. I believe this is the setup I would use if I owned a pickup truck and enclosed motorcycle trailer. You don't need to do anything but climb in the back to use the bed and get some sleep. I also believe that this is very likely the best route for getting the best mpg while pulling a trailer - and adding a "wing" or air deflector on the top of the bed cover would likely help as well. Here is a video of a fellow adding a skateboard deflector that helped his mpg. I am likely going to try this on my Explorer by using the roof racks as a mount for a deflector........I have been searching for an affordable snow board at the local thrift store and watching Craigslist. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9bvaEYFTKS4&t=578s [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9bvaEYFTKS4&t=578s[/media] Speed also has a huge impact on mpg when towing. The sweet speed seems to be 60mph in my RV - going over that significantly affects my mpg. The following video supports this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yqgafHOdn_k [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yqgafHOdn_k[/media] I believe where/how your are driving your truck has an effect on the mpg results of a truck bed cap. If you are driving around locally with speeds below 60mph, though town with lots of intersections - I believe the extra weight of the truck cap can reduce your mpg. If you are doing highway driving at speeds over 60mph (or pulling a trailer) - I believe the truck cap can improve your mpg. There is not doubt a trailer will reduce your mpg - however the cost of the extra fuel may not be as costly as it seems. On a 300 mile trip getting 30 mpg will require 10 gallons of fuel. If you get 20mpg you will need 15 gallons of fuel. The difference is only 5 gallons - about $15 at current fuel prices in this area. For that $15 you have brought a bed with you, hauled your motorcycle, etc. You don't need to rent a $60 a night cabin and you can either sleep at a rest area for free - or get a $20 a night spot in a campground. You have actually saved money! |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by ThumperPaul on 02/02/25 at 08:57:48 Heck. When our tents have gotten destroyed in the middle of the night, the truck cab with the seats tilted back feels pretty good until you wake up and feel like you’ve been hit by an18-wheeler. Camper tops for truck beds have gotten stupid expensive for a good one. I explored that idea. I also don’t want to leave it on the truck full time for when I need the extra height in the truck bed. Here again, the hassle of taking it on/off and storing the darn thing. My current thinking for now… 1) forget the toy hauler until we have somewhere on our property to store it. 2) forget cabin rentals. Getting expensive, not available in all locations, and most don’t allow pets. Boo.. 3) rent a real RV camper in the 21’ range, tow with the truck, wife drives the truck and I follow behind on the bike for those type excursions. My short term goal is to get out of a tent when camping and occasionally bring a bike when it’s practical to do so. It just makes sense for me to wait on the toy hauler until I have a convenient way to store it on our own property. And reality is…until my wife retires, we can only realistically camp 2-3 times per year. The “whale tail” is a slick idea. My truck gets about 15mpg when towing a good load. I’ve just learned to accept that. The darn thing only gets about 20mpg without a load and IF I only go 55-60mph. That speed just doesn’t cut it in Texas, so I really get about 18mpg on the highway doing 70-75mph (maybe 80 if the speed limit is 75). |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by MMRanch on 02/02/25 at 12:00:34 Hi Paul :) Hay I've put two Savages in the rear of my truck a lot of times with no problem. The fuel millage does drop a little from the wind of the bikes sticking up , but only a few mpg. A truck driving buddy of mine had a 18 wheeler that would only do 68 mph that he drove a long time and in every state . It's OK not to fly off the bluff just because the guy in front of ya does ... ;D I might have to watch for a small , low , dual Motorcycle trailer and a truck toper. I'll sell the left-overs when I get done. ! ::) .................... Hay Paul , if you've got a full size truck then you could get one of those 2" receiver hitch 800 pound motorcycle carriers ? :-? I know a Motoguzzi guy that put one on the front of his truck and pulled a 16' enclosed trailer/camper on the rear ... He said "no I never checked the fuel millage , I just keep putting it in when it needs it . " |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by ThumperPaul on 02/02/25 at 15:08:28 Hey MM. I still really like the toy hauler idea for bikes and camping. I just need to pause the idea until a better time. Sorry, but I'm not putting a bike in the bed of the truck. And those bike racks that go on a hitch are a big "no way". Maybe for a small dirt bike, but noooo thanks. And I'm not slowing down either. Lol.... Knock on wood, but I haven't got a speeding ticket in over 30 years. We have lots of miles of 75mph speed limits, and a bunch more 70s. Doing 70-75 is just normal. I get passed all day doing 75 in the right lane. We got places to get to in Texas. Ok - y'all get back to discussing toy hauler mods now. I've verred of course again... Wait, EDIT: I got an electronic device speeding ticket sent to me from Des Moines, IA about 8 years ago when driving to Minnesota. That's chicken-chit. Something like 62 in a 55. I paid their stupid fine. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by MMRanch on 02/02/25 at 22:12:59 Yes , if they post it at 55 then they should enforce it to be 55 ! ;D wouldn't that really be something ! :-? Just think how that would change daily life ! .................... An alternative might be to join "Bunk a Biker" https://www.bunkabiker.com/ Just Ride every where ya want to go ! but then there are all the trash mouth folks and the boarder line alcoholic people , ya just never know who ya going to find ? I'll just have to build a camper ! :) |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by ThumperPaul on 02/03/25 at 04:44:39 Definitely build that camper! Sounds like you and Dave have some space to spread out and storage space. That’s what’s really holding me back - subdivision living and a rule enforcing HOA bunch of Karens. Hopefully one day I can come back to this thread for some great info and steal shamelessly! Where is your outlaw spirit? As Sammy Hagar put it, “I can’t drive 55!”. Dave: I was reminded of your comment about going to Big Bend this April last night. The planets are in a spectacular line up right now. Even in Houston I can see Venus, Jupiter, and Mars. I’m sure I could see Saturn if I went out a little later. There is a cool free app you can get for your phone that will show you the names of stars and planets just by pointing your phone in that direction. I use one called StarTracker Lite. People expect you can see the stars and planets better when in remote places like in the heart of Texas or Montana. Of course you can, but the problem is you can see too many and can’t tell which is which! It’s like trying to pick out a particular fish in a packed aquarium versus picking it out when there are only two or three. The stars at night are big and bright “Deep in the Heart of Texas”. If you ever go to an Astros baseball game, you will be forced to sing along to this tune during the 7th inning stretch. The stars at night Are big and bright Deep in the heart of Texas The prairie sky Is wide and high Deep in the heart of Texas The sage in bloom Is like perfume Deep in the heart of Texas Reminds me of The one I love Deep in the heart of Texas The coyotes wail Along the trail Deep in the heart of Texas The rabbits rush Around the brush Deep in the heart of Texas The stars at night Are big and bright Deep in the heart of Texas The prairie sky Is wide and high Deep in the heart of Texas The sage in bloom Is like perfume Deep in the heart of Texas Reminds me of The one I love Deep in the heart of Texas |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 02/03/25 at 15:48:16 Paul: Yes I have room to store stuff outdoors.....25 acres. Maybe someday the time/place will be right for you to have a trailer. Perhaps you can find someone in your area to share the ownership with - somebody who has room to store the trailer. I loved my little 4x8 trailer and Pontiac Vibe - they were the right combination for my life from 2009 until 20023. I likely put 30,000 miles on that trailer! The 5x10 trailer that I have now is bigger and better - I am sure it will see many miles and many smiles in the years to come. It is perfect for me to haul a single bike and sleep in - with or without the bike inside. I do not have any kind of toilet, fridge or other amenities inside - it is basically a rigid gent on wheels! I can haul a cooler if I need to store food, and I pack a 10x10 pop up canopy to cover the bike once I get to my final destination. My trailer did not get as much use last year, as my neighbor and I each bought 1/2 a bigger trailer that can haul both our bikes, and I have traveled with him several times last year. We slept in a tent, cabin or hotel - the cabins at Cherohala Mountain Trailers are $60 a night and are heated, and we used the heaters as it was cold after dark the two times we went there. MMRanch: I hope you build your trailer with a flexible arrangement so you can put the bike inside if you want to....make the beds in a way they can be moved or folded out of the way to make room for the bike. With a 6' wide trailer you will have room for a bike and a sleeping bag/pad next to the bike when you are on a solo trip.....you may even have room to sleep crosswise in the trailer. I could do the math - but I had a friend who researched the costs of traveling. The cheapest way to do it is use your car/truck, stay in a tent in the campground and cook your own meals. The more expensive way is to travel by car, eat in restaurants and stay in hotels - or - Drive an RV or camper, staying in campgrounds and eat your own food. The cost of fuel/food/travel is about the same for those two - so it really just depends how you want to travel. (The cost of a new car and a used RV or camper can be about the same....and if you already have a truck that cost is already paid). Deb and I both had full time jobs and we were very frugal with our money - and I did as much maintenance on the house and vehicles as I could (I hate paying folks to do stuff I can do). Now we are in our senior years and we need to enjoy the years we have left together - time for us to travel and spend the money we saved for retirement! :) |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 02/03/25 at 17:09:35 I learned something last night.....maybe I should have learned it last summer! I bought one of these little plug in thermostats - it can control the room temperature by turning a small electric heater on/off as needed. The little 500 watt heater I bought does not have any way to adjust the heat. So last night I decided to give it a try and sleep in the trailer. I first set the temperature to 68, as that is what we have our house set at and I sleep fine. I had removed the conventional mattress I had been using in the trailer and decided to try one of the 8" thick air mattresses I had bought last year. I wanted something easy to store when I wasn't using it. I had a fitted flannel sheet on the air mattress, a flannel sheet above, and a wool blanket. I woke up cold - so I turned the heat up a bit, and I was still cold so I added another blanket. I woke up cold again! It was the kind of cold that I feel between my shoulder blades and makes me very uncomfortable. I kept turning up the heat and finally it was 78 degrees and I started to feel OK. I got curious about the air mattress - as I was not cold in the trailer a month ago when I was sleeping in far colder temperatures with a conventional mattress. I did a search on YouTube - and it turns out that air mattresses are known for making it hard to stay warm when sleeping in cold weather! The air in the mattress is not a good insulator and it transfers the cold from the ground (trailer floor) to your body. If you do use an air mattress in cold weather - you need as many blankets under you as you do on top! Last summer we were camping in a tent and I had a small little air mattress, and I froze that night as well - the next night I slept with my sleeping bag underneath me and blankets on top and stayed warm.....I didn't think my trailer floor was cold enough to repeat this cold night event! So - it turns out cots are better for staying warm on cold nights, and if you still want to use an air mattress you need to put blankets or a sleeping bag under you as well as on top. This is the little thermostat I bought - it worked very well. https://www.amazon.com/EconoHome-Adjustable-Thermostat-Universal-Compatible/dp/B0BWYZ55PQ/ref=sxin_16_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.008d028e-e56f-4003-a59e-3bb1a49f27bf%3Aamzn1.sym.008d028e-e56f-4003-a59e-3bb1a49f27bf&crid=33QPNK9QM462U&cv_ct_cx=adjustable%2Bthermostat&keywords=adjustable%2Bthermostat&pd_rd_i=B0BWYZ55PQ&pd_rd_r=120cc697-689b-4ba1-9ad7-919ad407ef67&pd_rd_w=bzFT5&pd_rd_wg=ycfRP&pf_rd_p=008d028e-e56f-4003-a59e-3bb1a49f27bf&pf_rd_r=PJY4RNH1RY297XN3WYQ8&qid=1738630385&s=hi&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=adjustable%2Bthermostat%2Ctools%2C189&sr=1-2-e169343e-09af-4d41-85b1-8335fe8f32d0-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1 |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by MMRanch on 02/03/25 at 17:43:54 Well the 6'x10' should be finished in a week or so. I have a two Blue motorcycles so I got a Blue Trailer to haul one of them in ! ::) I should find out about the fuel millage on the way home from Chattanooga ! Driving at a relaxed pace the mpg may be just fine ? Hay Paul I can save the "Can't Drive 55" for the Day Rides when your leading ! ;D I wonder how many sleeping bags we can fit into a 6'x10' floor space if need be ? ? I'm sure my wife will not be getting far from home while she can still go visit her mom. I'd think it would take years to fix a Camper to perfection ? ;) |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 02/04/25 at 04:32:10 180A180A07141B161D550 wrote:
Based on my trailer experience - you should expect a 6-10 mpg decrease. At slow speeds the light trailer is not going to make much difference - but once you start traveling at speeds 60mph and above the wind resistance will kick in. A 6' wide trailer will allow 2 cots to fit in lengthwise, with a small aisle between.....and the aisle will be handy for those trips outside to check the weather a couple of times each night! If you start piling folks in sideways.......you likely could "Sardine" in 4 people! :o When I worked on the inside of my camper - it took me nearly 4 weeks of full time attention to get it wired, windows and roof vent installed, insulated, shelves built, floor and walls painted. It would have been more work if I was building cabinets or installing a fridge or solar system. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by ThumperPaul on 02/04/25 at 05:25:05 Dave: Surprisingly, there’s something I knew and you didn’t already know. I’m stunned! Yes, at least as many blankets under you as on top of you with an air mattress or sleeping on the ground. That goes back to my Cub Scout camping days when I was 12-13 years old. Camping in the Smokey Mountains around SC/NC/GA along the Chattanooga Trail. I also use a very thick furniture protector/blanket between the air mattress and the floor of the tent. It makes a huge difference. It’s one of those blankets you can buy/rent from U-Haul. I got mine for free when I rented a trailer from U-Haul and the previous renter didn’t remove it from the trailer and U-Haul didn’t remove it either. So, free to me no questions asked when I kept it. It also helps in the summer as it kinda collects condensation and moisture in the tent at night. If it gets “wet”, drag it outside and air it out during the day. Go for it, MM! I’d go for a 1 man 1-bike setup for starters. I personally wouldn’t want to experiment with 3-4 people in there. I’d also skip building cots/bunks/Murphy bed type setup and just use an air mattress (Queen or full size - biggest that will fit). My need would be sleeping for 2 (wife and I). My needs would be kept very simple - like “less is more” approach. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 02/04/25 at 09:54:20 Paul: I am just not familiar with sleeping on cold ground...and only recently have I purchased an air mattress. When we did camp in a tent we slept on cots, and we didn't tent camp in cold weather. MM/Paul: I have kept the floor area of both my trailers open - without any permanent attachment. That allows the use of the trailer for hauling things that you want to keep covered. Things like furniture that you don't want rained on. It also is nice when hauling light things like foam insulation, thin plywood sheets and anything light that could blow out of an open trailer. In my small trailer I hauled an antique bed back to my mom's house 300 miles away - then hauled horse manure for Deb's garden back to my house! (No sense hauling an empty trailer home, and mom's horse was very neat and poo in the same spot in the barn every day - so gathering up clean horse poo and putting it in plastic yard bags was easy). I agree with Paul - don't build or attach any kind of bed to the trailer for a while, and see how the trailer works out for you. Work on getting the stuff built in the V nose first. Windows and/or a roof vent are a must to get some air flow through the trailer for sleeping. On our motorcycle trips to TN/NC/GA I have never needed heat or AC - the one time Stew and I rode when it was below freezing at night we stayed in the Two Wheel Inn and had a warm hotel room. On the most recent trip at the Cherohala Mountains Streams campground we had a cabin with heat. A few times it has dropped into the 50's at night and my trailer was comfortable without heat - I believe MM was in a tent on a few of those nights! |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by MMRanch on 02/04/25 at 20:56:00 Well , I can still do tent camping just fine but I don't think the world is as "Safe of a place" as it used to be ! :-? I don't feel as secure as I used to feel sleeping outside at an interstate rest area as I used too ! :-/ So , thinking about taking a three day (one way) ride and camping along the way in a tent at the rest area's - by my self don't sit well with me very well. If there was three or four of us I wouldn't give it a second thought ! :) The security of a closed door is what I'm after here. No call to come pick it up yet ! ::) I'm watching videos' about how to mount solar panels and hook things up. From what I gather ... everything possible needs to stay DC and only a couple of plugs need to be AC. |
|
Title: Re: Trailer for hauling bikes and camping. Post by Dave on 02/05/25 at 03:04:23 17051705081B1419125A0 wrote:
I agree - you should run as many things from the 12V source as you can - you lose some efficiency when you convert the 12V to 120V using an inverter. If you intend to buy a fridge - find one that is wired for 12V. Not only will you avoid the need to convert the voltage - 12V appliances built for camper use are going to be designed to be as efficient as possible. My trailer does not have solar - but it does have a 12V battery mounted outside the trailer on the tongue. It is outside as a charging lead acid batter puts off hydrogen gas (and I didn't want to take up any indoor space). I initially went with lead acid as Lithium were just horribly expensive when I built the trailer....and I already had a couple of batteries in the RV I could borrow. Lithium prices keep coming down and I will buy one for this camper someday. My camper is wired for 12V LED interior lights, it has a 12V cigarette lighter socket with a battery voltage display so I can monitor the battery, the roof vent is 12V. I do have a "shore power" plug that I use to recharge the battery - I have to either plug into an outlet at the campground or use a generator to charge. I do have 2 outlets for 120V inside the camper, and when I am plugged in to a 120V source I can run an electric heater inside the camper. Since most of my trips are only a few days long and I am only running a vent fan, charging my phone and powering a few lights - the battery has enough capacity without charging. For recharging my battery I have a NOCO battery tender that was built for charging/maintaining deep cycle batteries. It has the ability to work with conventional lead acid batteries, AGM or Lithium batteries. Your solar system will need something similar to monitor the power in the batteries. |
|
SuzukiSavage.com » Powered by YaBB 2.2! YaBB © 2000-2007. All Rights Reserved. |