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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Alternator-Side Engine Cover /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1705762126 Message started by ThumperPaul on 01/20/24 at 06:48:46 |
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Title: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by ThumperPaul on 01/20/24 at 06:48:46 It's looking like I might have to remove the alternator side engine cover. I have a small oil drip that's bugging the crap out of me. I'm replacing the o-ring on the starter suspecting its the culprit. I found some oil in the catch tray below the starter that may be flowing out the drain hole in the tray. Funny how they put that drain hole there like they know the darn o-ring is gunna leak. That said, I might have a gasket leak at the bottom of the engine cover. And it may be where the stator wires come out - I tried to patch up that plug area with RTV (maybe it didn't work). I just can't quite tell where the drip is originating from. If I have to pull the cover to replace the gasket, it seems simple enough.... But, any tips? It unnerves me a bit that you have to remove the long through bolts and remove the foot pegs. Worried I'll get 'em out and then they won't want to align right and go back through. |
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Title: Re: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by youzguyz on 01/20/24 at 09:35:26 The foot peg bolts are not a concern. They will line up OK going back together. You may need a long bolt or something to drift them out. While you may not have to take them all the way out to get foot peg clear and the cover off, it is easier in the long run if you do. (my opinion) After the bolts of the cover are off, it may feel like the cover is stuck. That is the magnetic pull from the fly wheel. It takes a good tug to get it off. Then all the washers fly off and stick to the fly wheel. Make sure you put them back where they belong. See picture. If your oil leak is the wires going in for the stator, good luck fixing that. I just let it leak .. |
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Title: Re: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by youzguyz on 01/20/24 at 09:42:21 To make the washer dilemma clear. TWO washers go on the front (anti back lash) gear. One on each side. NO washers go on the idler gear (next to the starter gear). |
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Title: Re: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by verslagen1 on 01/20/24 at 09:57:01 Check where you're leaking 1st. Remove the pulley cover, clean and leak check. https://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1335737953 To remove the cover, you'll need to remove the kickstand mount too as it blocks the case from coming straight out. A good stand is two jackstands under the tubes that the upper thru bolts go thru. I usually have no problems getting the thru bolts in. I've only had 1 that I had trouble with and lifting the engine with a floor jack brought into alignment. |
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Title: Re: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by DragBikeMike on 01/20/24 at 10:03:25 "Funny how they put that drain hole there like they know the darn o-ring is gunna leak." I believe the drain hole is intended for water. If the bike is outside in a rain storm, the starter cavity would fill up with water if the drain hole wasn't there. Inspect your wires carefully. I had a new stator start leaking at just a few thousand miles. The Teflon insulation on the wires had cracked. The oil ran through the stranded conductors and out through the cracks. The insulation on that particular piece of junk is Teflon. No sealant will stick to it. It's pretty much a boat anchor now. Maybe someday I will try to install new wires. Look at this piece of junk. |
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Title: Re: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by ThumperPaul on 01/20/24 at 10:38:02 Thanks Mike. You made sense of the drain hole! You shared this photo in my original post about the stator wire exit grommet. I shared my ugly pic. I thought I got it patched up with some RTV, but I still have this drip that I can't pinpoint. I think I need to remove the alternator side cover, replace the gasket, and do a better job with the RTV. Globbing it around only the outside probably isn't good enough. It needs some around the the perimeter against the engine casing is my guess. Any tips for removing the alternator cover? Can it be done without completely removing the long through bolts holding the pegs? Just back out partially? Or is that just making it a pain? |
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Title: Re: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by ThumperPaul on 01/20/24 at 10:44:01 180E141B0614181B610 wrote:
I'll look at the manual, but what do those washers do? How do they stay in place? "One on each side." Each side of what? Sorry, I didn't see your other comments before I replied in my last comment. |
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Title: Re: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by youzguyz on 01/20/24 at 12:52:24 6559445C4154436150445D310 wrote:
I'll look at the manual, but what do those washers do? How do they stay in place? "One on each side." Each side of what? Sorry, I didn't see your other comments before I replied in my last comment. [/quote] From left to right in the photo you have: flywheel, back lash gear, idler gear, starter. When you pull off the cover the washer that is on the outside of the back lash gear will likely jump off and stick to the magnetic flywheel. There is another washer on the inside of the back lash gear. If you look at this fiche, the washers are #2. The only go on the back lash gear (#1 - limiter assy). NO washers go on the idler gear (#3). https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/suzuki/motorcycle/2002/savage-ls650p/starter-clutch |
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Title: Re: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by ThumperPaul on 01/20/24 at 13:46:30 Thanks youzguyz! Weird. Does that outside washer just hang on the outside? I'm not grasping its purpose. It'll probably make more sense when I get in there. Thanks. |
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Title: Re: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by Dave on 01/20/24 at 17:26:40 102C312934213614253128440 wrote:
The washers (on both sides) keeps the splined shaft from chewing into the aluminum. |
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Title: Re: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by Ruttly on 01/20/24 at 22:24:34 Wow , All that great info. I’ll be replacing rotor here soon , what great timing. One of the items on winter maintenance list that I’m late on getting started on. ;D It was like a refresher course. And drain hole isn’t for oil , it’s to drain water away from starter pit. |
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Title: Re: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by ThumperPaul on 01/21/24 at 05:30:36 Thanks Dave and Ruttly. I’m still not grasping how a washer just floating on the end of the shaft can do anything. Nothing holding it in place? And it jumps on to the magnetic flywheel upon disassembly? What? At least the washer on the inside of the gear is blocked from going anywhere. How does the outside washer do anything just being loose on the outside of the shaft? What am I missing? DBM explained the drain hole earlier. That makes complete sense now! Duh! But me finding residual oil down in the tray suggests I haven’t resolved the o-ring issue on the starter motor. This could be the source of my oil drip and I want to replace the o-ring and rule out this item. I have the left side crankcase gasket in hand and ready if I need to go further. If the leak is where the stator wires come out of the side cover, that I’ve already tried to patch up from the outside, is the culprit, DBM has already said “good luck and just let it drip”. This is so unlike Mike. Impossible must actually exist! Houston added a new postal service distribution center and it’s been a disaster! I’m waiting for multiple deliveries from Parzilla ordered as far back as Dec-17. Some parts are non critical, but the correct OEM o-ring for the starter is in one of those orders! It’s like I’m not meant to get this bike back together correctly any time soon! |
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Title: Re: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by youzguyz on 01/21/24 at 06:28:38 6D514C54495C4B69584C55390 wrote:
The COVER holds the other end of the shaft for that washer. See picture. See the two holes in the upper left? The one on the left is for the idler gear. (it does NOT need washers). The one on right is for the backlash gear (it gets a washer on both sides). Does that help? |
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Title: Re: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by ThumperPaul on 01/21/24 at 07:14:51 Thank you, thank you, thank you, youzguys!! A picture is worth a 1000 words! And sorry to be so dense!! And yes this would have become obvious once inside (but I had to know!!). |
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Title: Re: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by DragBikeMike on 01/21/24 at 10:35:57 "DBM has already said “good luck and just let it drip”. This is so unlike Mike." Paul, can you point out the post where I said that? I would like to get a feel for the context. I suspect the comment pertained to the type of insulation on the wires. If the insulation is Teflon (like the wires I show in my picture), you aren't going to find any sort of sealant that will stick to the insulation. So, good luck getting that sealed up. I opted to just change the stator assembly even though the one I had in the bike was still almost new. I hate screwing around with cheap, poor-quality aftermarket electrical parts. Mechanical stuff I can fix, electrical stuff not so much. The only good fix I can see for the cracked insulation shown in my picture is to unsolder the wires at the stator, pull them out of the plug, and replace with new wires. Someday I will attempt that. The stator checks out electrically, but the crack in the insulation leaks oil like crazy. It also bubbles like crazy when I air test and check with soap solution. I don't know why you haven't air tested yet. It's easy to do and works great. If you are afraid of 10 psi, test at 5 psi. You are correct to be respectful of air pressure. It can be dangerous and has the potential to pop an engine case just like a balloon. I install a bleed valve between my regulator and the item under test. Then I open the bleed valve all the way and adjust the regulator until I just start to see pressure on the gage. Then slowly start closing the bleed valve until I achieve the desired test pressure. An even safer method is to use a bicycle pump. Put a little air in that thing and soap down all the joints. The bubbles will show you where the leak is. |
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Title: Re: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by Ruttly on 01/21/24 at 11:24:22 At the dealer we had dye to add to oil , run it , get it some ultra violet light on it . The smallest leaks looked like flowing /glowing lava , very cool. |
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Title: Re: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by ThumperPaul on 01/21/24 at 11:24:56 My bad Mike. Bad quote. It was youzguyz that made the comment. |
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Title: Re: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by ThumperPaul on 02/08/24 at 13:59:02 I am replacing the alternator crankcase gasket today. I don't have a washer on the outside of the anti-backlash gear. I've checked the flywheel magnet and the floor and I can't find it. I've looked and felt around and I can't find it. The washer on the inside of the gear is there. Do all model years have the washer on the outside of the gear? I looked at the case and there is no damage from the gear rubbing against it. |
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Title: Re: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by ThumperPaul on 02/08/24 at 14:01:34 Another view with the gasket area cleaned up and the bolts back where I found them until I figure out my washer situation. Also, how many crankcase bolts should have a washer? I only had 1 bolt with a washer located between the starter gear area and the top of the front pully (top rear - right side edge of photo). |
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Title: Re: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by ThumperPaul on 02/08/24 at 14:12:03 I believe this is the source of my leak. There was no gasket material behind where the stator wire grommet plug comes out the case. There was some RTV in the area. I'm guessing someone removed the cover and damaged the gasket. Then tried to fix with RTV. There was also evidence that the entire gasket had some RTV applied to it. I had to gently scrape and clean for about an hour. |
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Title: Re: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by ThumperPaul on 02/08/24 at 15:18:02 I checked the parts diagram and the outside washer should be there. I've looked again and still don't see it. Would the gear necessarily grind on the case without the washer? I'd order it except it's a $2 part and they want $9 to ship it. Ain't happening. I'll try Ace Hardware first. Now worried it's in there somewhere and I'm just not finding it. Then again, maybe it was already missing.... |
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Title: Re: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by ThumperPaul on 02/08/24 at 15:34:24 But wait, there's more!! I think it had a rubber o-ring on the outside. A rubber o-ring magically appeared in my work area when I was pulling off the case. That actually seems kinda smart if that's what somebody did.... |
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Title: Re: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by ThumperPaul on 02/08/24 at 16:00:50 I put the o-ring on the shaft, and Perfect fit. I'm pretty sure this is why the o-ring magically appeared on the floor when I pulled the cover. Thoughts? I think it's fine and this is what was used instead of the washer. |
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Title: Re: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by Dave on 02/08/24 at 17:25:10 I would remove the O ring and get a steel washer.....just like the factory did it. I would not trust an O ring to hold up for very long.....O rings are used for seals - not for thrust washers. Get a washer at the hardware store as close to size/thickness as you can for the inside washer that you still have. |
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Title: Re: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by ThumperPaul on 02/08/24 at 18:47:29 Thanks Dave. That was my original thought. |
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Title: Re: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by DragBikeMike on 02/09/24 at 09:44:02 The OEM gaskets come with a bead of silicone pre-applied to the face of the gasket. It is grey. When that outer washer gets away from me, I usually find it stuck to the inside of the alternator rotor. You might wanna look in the rotor real good, all the way around. Is there any chance that its stuck on the inside of the cover? The oil tends to hold it on the cover, like this one. |
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Title: Re: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by DragBikeMike on 02/09/24 at 09:46:29 Sometimes, the torque limiter comes out with the outer cover. Then the inner washer likes to fall between the starter gear and the flywheel, like this. |
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Title: Re: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by ThumperPaul on 02/09/24 at 12:14:51 I searched and felt around everywhere. No washer. I bought a 10mm washer from Ace and it fit well. Got the bike put back together this morning and took it for a short ride to warm up the oil and get it flowing. I still have a darn drip. And I swear its where the stator wires exit the cover. I'm done for the day.... Total frustration has set in. On a positive note, I don't hear a washer flying around in there... I more convinced now that the PO used an o-ring in place of the washer. |
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Title: Re: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by ThumperPaul on 02/20/24 at 10:01:00 Late to give an update... I thought I was done here. Woody is bleeding like a stuck pig. I got the area near the stator wire exit patched up with some RTV. That seems to be holding for now. But.....the gasket didn't seal right near the top front of the alternator cover. You can see the gasket sticking out about 0.5mm all the way around expect for between the 2 bolts in the photo. Amazing how much it can spew through such a tiny gap. I used an aftermarket gasket on this side. I used a quality OEM gasket on the clutch side. Lesson - pay the extra $7-8 bucks and buy a quality OEM gasket. It is also probably partially my fault. When the cover jumped back on (magnet working) and it landed nicely on the locating dowels, I thought hooray! I eyeballed it and thought I saw the gasket nicely in place all the way around. Apparently my eyesight isn't very good. So, lesson 2, look closely before buttoning up. It could also be that the aftermarket gasket isn't cut prefectly. So, new OEM gasket is ordered. Oil has been drained. And I try again with a new gasket. Any tips? Clean it up real good and use some RTV to hold the gasket in place when the cover gets sucked into the case by the magnet?? I really don't want to use RTV, but I'm tired of this issue! I'm gunna jump! |
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Title: Re: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by ThumperPaul on 02/20/24 at 10:02:51 Woody on the stand and hanging from the rafters! I am about ready to hang this bike! PS - Ignore the circa 1998 Macintosh All-In-One computer. It actually still works and will be donated to a museum. LOL. |
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Title: Re: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by Dave on 02/20/24 at 15:45:51 If the locating dowels are on the crankcase side....then put the gasket on the dowels before you put the cover in place. If the dowel(s) are on the cover......see if you can move them to the crankcase side. |
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Title: Re: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by ThumperPaul on 02/20/24 at 19:29:20 I put the dowels on the crankcase side and then put the gasket in place using the dowels to hold the gasket in place (or so I thought). (your option 1). I also put a light smear of grease on the gasket to tack it on the mating surface. I've got a new OEM gasket coming. Hopefully its a better thickness and better cut. And I just need to make sure it's situated perfectly this time. |
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Title: Re: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by zevenenergie on 02/21/24 at 00:08:36 I would make sure that the ring that you slid over the gear axle has the correct thickness so that the crankcase can actually close. And if I had lost that ring and I saw Dave's photo, I would have pulled off the flywheel and then fished in the crankcase with a small neodinium magnet on a throttle cable (taped with JBweld) until I was sure that there isn't a ring wandering anywhere in my engine. |
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Title: Re: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by ThumperPaul on 02/21/24 at 05:18:30 Thanks Zevenenergie. I thought about the thickness of the Ace hardware washer I installed and it possibly preventing a solid seal around the cover due to excessive thickness. It “looked” the same thickness as the inner washer, but my eyesight isn’t great, I didn’t measure, and we are talking micrometers making a difference. Here’s the brain dead thing about that …. I had put an exact correct washer in my Partzilla.com shopping cart 2 weeks ago when I discovered it was missing on the bike (or swapped out for an o-ring)…. When I put the gasket in my cart the other day, I saw it. It didn’t click in my head. I forgot what the washer was for and removed it from my cart not remembering or realizing what it was for or why I put it in my cart. I’m getting senile. So the Ace Hardware washer is going to get filed and buffed a tad thinner before reinstalling just in case it’s the root cause of a poor seal. Thanks for reminding me about the stupid washer! |
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Title: Re: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by youzguyz on 02/21/24 at 07:16:13 You should compare the Ace washer to the one that is already in there, as they need to be the same. https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/suzuki/motorcycle/2002/savage-ls650p/starter-clutch From what I am reading, the thickness is 1.0 mm. |
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Title: Re: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by ohiomoto on 02/21/24 at 17:44:27 4D5B414E53414D4E340 wrote:
Or, you could just order the correct washer and a spare gasket or some other maintenance items you know you'll need (if you need to justify shipping costs). I would never use an OEM equivalent or performance part on an engine. I wouldn't trust the quality of that washer. Especially after you grind it down. Every bit of that engine is machined to a higher tolerance and uses higher quality materials than anything you're going to get at ACE. And I love ACE! Half of my motorcycle is built wither their hardware, but not in my engine. :) |
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Title: Re: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by Surviving Philly on 02/21/24 at 17:51:41 Hey what are the torque specs on the bolts for this cover? Is it the same as the clutch side? As a side note -- I just pulled mine to remove debris from chiseling through the timing port plug to replace that with a hex head version (and adjust valves). The old gasket was SERIOUSLY stuck to the crank case. I had to carefully scrape away at this with a razor blade before putting the new gasket on -- outside on a busy sidewalk, mind you. Not fun. I'm thankful I had the foresight to buy the replacement gasket, I was about to try and reuse the old one before seeing exactly how worn out it was. Seems to be dripping a tiny bit of oil -- may not have gotten all of the old gasket off.... |
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Title: Re: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by ThumperPaul on 02/21/24 at 18:18:12 OhioMoto - see above. I ordered the new OEM gasket and like an idiot I removed the correct washer from the shopping cart. I really don't think it's the washer. See my solution above, but I may go ahead and order the $2 washer and another $9 shipping charge. Sorry SurvivingPhilly - glad you got the new gasket. It should be an easy swap, but nothing ever works out easy. The Clymer manual doesn't distinguish left from right. It just says 6mm crankcase bolts 9-13 N.m. (6.5 - 9.5 Ft-lb). I cranked mine down to 13n.m. |
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Title: Re: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by ThumperPaul on 02/22/24 at 09:14:17 I love Partzilla.com. And they probably love me too with all the $$ I’ve dropped there. New washer (on back, back, back order slip) and a few other bolts I want are being shipped for free! I’m so tickled - I haven’t gotten anything for free in a long time! |
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Title: Re: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by ohiomoto on 02/22/24 at 18:42:26 Oh, I missed that part (of forgot). Sorry. :) |
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Title: Re: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by ThumperPaul on 02/27/24 at 07:35:21 Philly - I'm definitely getting senile. I did make and use a bolt template when I replaced the gasket on the stator side. I suffered the mistake of copying the prior owner by putting bolts in the wrong holes and not having a true #17. Don't mimic errors!! |
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Title: Re: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by ThumperPaul on 02/27/24 at 07:41:09 New OEM gasket. This is interesting. They only put the pre-applied sealant where the stator wires come out. 1) obviously a place prone to leak... 2) too cheap to put sealant all the way around... Some things just make me shake my head! All of the Chinese dirt bikes I've worked on put the stator wire exist on TOP of the cover. Smarter design to me as you won't get a leak due to gravity or momentum to the lower rear side. |
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Title: Re: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by verslagen1 on 02/27/24 at 09:23:12 Item 14 - p/n 01547-06257 - bolt 6x25 Item 15 - p/n 01547-06357 - bolt 6x35 Item 16 - p/n 01547-06457 - bolt 6x45 Item 17 - p/n 01547-06507 - bolt 6x50 image curtesy of ThumperPaul |
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Title: Re: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by ThumperPaul on 02/27/24 at 10:10:48 Thanks for doing that Verslagen!! Cool! You answered my question about the length of #17! Glad to see its a nice long 50mm. I'm waiting for mine in the mail! I'm on the right path to getting this side 100% leak free!! |
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Title: Re: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by ohiomoto on 02/27/24 at 18:56:24 6A796E6F707D7B79722D1C0 wrote:
If we had "Like"s on here I would've hit it. |
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Title: Re: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by Dave on 02/28/24 at 03:52:13 When I have to assemble something like this without knowing where they go - like when you buy a new kit of stainless bolts for the engine, this is what I do. You start placing the screws in the holes one by one without threading them in, and they should all stick out about the same distance. If one of the screws doesn't reach the threads - then it is too short. If one of the screws sticks out excessively - it is too long. Move the screws around until they all have an equal amount of distance to be threaded into the holes. |
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Title: Re: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by DragBikeMike on 02/28/24 at 12:22:07 Good practical advice Dave. As a general rule of thumb, when using steel bolts in aluminum you want about two thread diameters of engagement. The aluminum is significantly weaker than the steel, and it is desirable to have the bolt break before the internal threads shear. Engine cases, cylinders, and cylinder heads are way more expensive than bolts. So, for 6mm fasteners you would want to see around 12mm of engagement, 8mm fasteners should have about 16mm of engagement, etc. I measured the alternator cover bolts protruding from the cover right at 11mm. Seems like 10 to 12mm would be a good range. Less than 10 and the fastener is too short or the first few threads in the case are stripped. More that 12 and the bolt is too long. |
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Title: Re: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by ThumperPaul on 02/28/24 at 14:57:18 Thanks Guys. And with the right bolts, a template, and the parts diagram, I will get them in the right place. In 20/20 hindsight, I worked too quickly, assumed something, and didn't double check my work closely enough. I'm gunna get it right this time!! |
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Title: Re: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by ohiomoto on 02/29/24 at 15:59:25 4E75786F7E72696F747C716E1D0 wrote:
That's what I've always done. I keep the bolts with the cover that they held. Also, I hand-tighten most case and bodywork bolts because I have a better chance of stopping before they strip than a torque wrench does. Most of those types of bolts don't affect the operation of the bike and have lower torque values. (I do use a torque wrench on the chassis, suspension, top-end, and anything inside of the cases. That's just what I do, you do you. |
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Title: Re: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by ThumperPaul on 03/05/24 at 05:48:27 Midge supervising to make sure I put the thrust washer on the right gear shaft and the bolts in the right holes! |
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Title: Re: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by Surviving Philly on 03/07/24 at 14:06:22 Want to just throw some info here -- I just (again) replaced the stator side gasket following a leak from a prior attempt. Now having succeeded I want to share these observations. 1: if you jack up the bike and have it off the side stand, you can remove the nuts from the long thru bolts and tap them out just enough to push the kickstand assembly away from the case without fully removing it. This lets you get access to the low bolts without totally taking the thing apart. 2: small amount of sealant around the wiring grommet (high tac from permatex) solved my oil leak. 3) this gasket for whatever reason is way, way less structurally sound than the clutch cover gasket. Just be observant of that. One should apply the new gasket with small dabs of grease to keep it in place when positioning the cover and battling the pull of the magnet. 4) that thrust washer can want to fall off. I also greased this. Taking it apart this time around I noticed it was not where it needs to be -- it was stuck to the magnet (thank God). Anyway that's all |
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Title: Re: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by ThumperPaul on 03/10/24 at 08:03:03 All good points SurvivingPhilly. I still have a tiny drip after 2 attempts. I'll be going for "3rd time's the charm". I can't pinpoint exactly where the leak is, but its in the area where the stator wires exist. This time, 1) I'm going to try to seal up the wire exist from the inside of the cover with some polyurethane sealant that supposedly sticks and seals plastic/rubber/teflon/metal. 2) Suzukibond is getting applied to both side of the gasket all the way around. 3) I'm going to give all sealants 48-72 hours to ensure fully curing before putting oil back in the motor. I agree about the OEM gasket on alternator side of the motor. It's not as robust as the clutch side gasket. It only drips a small amount when on the side stand. It's more pronounced after a ride and the motor/oil is warm. If the bike is on the center lift stand and straight up/down, no drip (or seemingly so). It's like the oil level inside is reaching the level of the wire grommet and then escapes through there. |
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Title: Re: Alternator-Side Engine Cover Post by ThumperPaul on 03/10/24 at 14:43:30 As it turns out, the gasket sealed fine. It's the darn stator wire. The grommet that the wires pass through isn't sealed very well when you get an aftermarket stator. DBM documented his when it was new. Mine was patched with some RTV when I bought the bike. I tried cleaning up the old RTV and removing what I could. Then applied fresh RTV. This was obviously unsuccessful. Here's a pic where the oil found its way down the wires and created an exit in the RTV. This photo is after I trimmed back some of the failed RTV. NO, I'm not proud of this RTV job by me and the prior owner, but shame on the manufacturer for not making the grommet leak free! I've cleaned up and cut back old RTV. I'm trying polyurethane sealant this time. It seems to want to stick better. We'll see. I have a feeling this is going to continue to happen. It's just a matter of if it will last 3 days, or 3 weeks, or 3 months, or 3 years. I'd like 5 years please. I don't exactly remember, but I think these cheap aftermarket stators are like $40 vs $400 for an OEM. I don't fault or criticize anyone for going with the $40 aftermarket. If you need a new stator and go the aftermarket route, check where the wires go through the grommet and if needed patch it up from both sides before you ever get oil near it. Once oil gets in there, its almost impossible to get it perfectly clean and dry and then any kind of sealant will fail. |
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