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Message started by goofin on 07/06/23 at 15:01:08

Title: Clutch rod replacement?
Post by goofin on 07/06/23 at 15:01:08

with just under 15000 miles on it Her 2006 S40 needs some tlc. Clutch started slipping under hard acceleration and since im opening the case to replace the cam chain tenioner, i figured id do the clutch. EBC pates and springs, Barnett steels. New seals and gasket. I have a new clutch cable as well. Since Ill have it in the living room and air conditioning i figured id go over it all. July 28th will mark 1 year since Bernie passed away and i want to take her bike to the beach to spread Bernies ashes.Sorry for getting side tracked.. if im replacing clutch discs and steels, do i need to replace the stock clutch rod with the longer one?
I only want to tear it down once, im waiting on a few other parts so if I have to order another rod, its no big deal

Title: Re: Clutch rod replacement?
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 07/06/23 at 16:16:29

IDK the answers to all your questions, but don't miss the o ring in the side cover that the clutch rod runs through.

Title: Re: Clutch rod replacement?
Post by Dave on 07/06/23 at 17:26:33

Before you tear it apart......look at the right side case and see where the location of the chrome clutch actuating lever is when the slack is taken out and the lever is just beginning to release the clutch.  If the arm is located between the marks that show the proper place for the lever.....then the rid and clutch plates are fine, and your problem is elsewhere.

Also be sure there is a bit of free play in the lever and cable before the actuating lever at the engine engages the clutch.

Using oils with friction modifiers or too much moly can cause your clutch to slip.  Do not use oils with a "Energy Saving" mark or comments on the bottle.


Title: Re: Clutch rod replacement?
Post by ohiomoto on 07/06/23 at 18:02:23

My condolences.  That ride to the beach on Bernie's bike will be perfect.

Title: Re: Clutch rod replacement?
Post by goofin on 07/06/23 at 19:30:56

thank you

Title: Re: Clutch rod replacement?
Post by goofin on 07/06/23 at 19:36:56


09323F2839352E28333B36295A0 wrote:
Before you tear it apart......look at the right side case and see where the location of the chrome clutch actuating lever is when the slack is taken out and the lever is just beginning to release the clutch.  If the arm is located between the marks that show the proper place for the lever.....then the rid and clutch plates are fine, and your problem is elsewhere.

Also be sure there is a bit of free play in the lever and cable before the actuating lever at the engine engages the clutch.

Using oils with friction modifiers or too much moly can cause your clutch to slip.  Do not use oils with a "Energy Saving" mark or comments on the bottle.

A quick look indicates the the clutch arm is at the upper mark. Im off Friday and plan to dig into it more. Ive always used Rotella T4 since i picked it up, it had less than 4100 miles on it. ill adjust the cable and take it for a ride. Atleast if it does require new parts, ill have them, if not they are paid for and I dont have to feed them..lol

Title: Re: Clutch rod replacement?
Post by Dave on 07/07/23 at 03:52:02

I believe that as the clutch wears....the lever moves downward and you get toward the bottom mark.

If that is so....your slippage is likely not because the clutch plates are worn.

Title: Re: Clutch rod replacement?
Post by TheSneeze on 07/07/23 at 07:59:19

If you are putting in stiffer clutch springs, you may want to consider upgrading the clutch cam to one of my AR500 ones to avoid having the stock one break under the increased clutch force.

Title: Re: Clutch rod replacement?
Post by goofin on 07/07/23 at 08:57:50


6E55584F5E52494F545C514E3D0 wrote:
I believe that as the clutch wears....the lever moves downward and you get toward the bottom mark.

If that is so....your slippage is likely not because the clutch plates are worn.

The top picture is the arm location with the clutch lever pulled all the way in. the bottom picture is clutch lever normal, all slack removed from arm.
http://https://i.postimg.cc/qz6NrgRh/20230707-092211.jpg (https://postimg.cc/qz6NrgRh)

http://https://i.postimg.cc/yJLzgbhW/20230707-092228.jpg (https://postimg.cc/yJLzgbhW)

Title: Re: Clutch rod replacement?
Post by Surviving Philly on 07/07/23 at 19:31:43

I think it's possible for the friction disks to be worn enough to cause slippage without being able to tell by looking at the indicator marks  -- it's also possible the basket or hub could be warn (grooves in the basket spokes OR hub face wear) which can cause slippage but wouldn't necessarily have an effect on the position of the lever.

But that being said, my personal course of action here would be to first make sure the cable/perch are adjusted correctly and the cable is lubricated since the entire clutch assembly is so sensitive. Since you already have the pack why not go ahead and install it.

As far as the rod goes, having just been down this rabbit hole myself (thanks again Dave for your words of wisdom) I don't think any rod length other than the stock rod needs to be used, especially with a brand new clutch pack, unless that pack is aftermarket and very different spec from stock in terms of thickness.

Edit: I want to add too that the indicator marks are to be read with the clutch engaged, I.E. lever not pulled in. just with slack taken out of the line.

Title: Re: Clutch rod replacement?
Post by ohiomoto on 07/07/23 at 19:43:10


727A7A737C7B150 wrote:
all slack removed from arm.

---------------
All slack removed from the arm???  

Are you referring to the arm or is that how the cable is adjusted?  There should always be a few mm or slack in the cable.  If you don't, that might be your issue.

Title: Re: Clutch rod replacement?
Post by goofin on 07/08/23 at 09:49:16


33343533313328335C0 wrote:
[quote author=727A7A737C7B150 link=1688680869/0#8 date=1688745470]all slack removed from arm.

---------------
All slack removed from the arm???  

Are you referring to the arm or is that how the cable is adjusted?  There should always be a few mm or slack in the cable.  If you don't, that might be your issue. [/quote]
i replaced the cable so i had to adjust everything so it had the proper amount of free play in it, thus removing all the extra slack in it. unfortunately im on call this weekend and haven't ridden it yet.

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