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General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Is the Clymer wrong?
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Message started by Dan Stafford on 07/05/21 at 19:43:20

Title: Is the Clymer wrong?
Post by Dan Stafford on 07/05/21 at 19:43:20

so I had to do the old oil head plug change out. The bolt that keeps the intake rocker arm shaft in place, I guess I considered one of the cylinder head to cylinder bolts. It clearly says 9 pounds for the exhaust rocker arm bolt, In doing so with torque wrench in hand,) I think we all know where this is going ( >:( ( ) I heard the dreaded slightly Tinker Bell-ish sound of “tink”. So yeah that one snapped…. I haven’t ran it. Gasket maker is drying I probably won’t run it until I get home from work tomorrow hopefully it’s not an issue…. By the way I have a 2000 savage bobberls650

Title: Re: Is the Clymer wrong?
Post by Fast 650 on 07/05/21 at 22:58:56

I think Clymer was a bit optimistic with that torque value. Typical torque specs for a hardened bolt threading into steel is 1.5 times the diameter. A 6mm bolt in that case would be 9 lbs. For a standard 6mm bolt into aluminum about 6 lbs is the max torque.

Title: Re: Is the Clymer wrong?
Post by Dave on 07/06/21 at 03:08:08

The Torque list in the Technical Section of this forum lists 5.9 - 8.8 Ft./Lbs.

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Title: Re: Is the Clymer wrong?
Post by Dan Stafford on 07/08/21 at 21:00:33

I appreciate the info… now im having a no start issue… getting only three volts to control side of my start solenoid… lights, horn neutral light, all work. I powered the starter direct..still good…have continuity from ground to bat neg….

Title: Re: Is the Clymer wrong?
Post by verslagen1 on 07/08/21 at 22:31:25

there are several connections throughout the wiring... you probably need to clean them all.

Title: Re: Is the Clymer wrong?
Post by Dan Stafford on 07/09/21 at 07:04:30

Good morning and thank you sir. I was just afraid that trying to start it after the carb rebuild and valve adjustment I burnt something up. New to motorcycle engines and electrical. I know it’s all kind of relative in the same thing as I am a Small engine mechanic. Then I have a buddy who has Harleys he says don’t ever adjust the valves if it has miles on it because they stretch now I’m concerned about proper valve adjustment. I have a 2000 LS 650 Savage. 13,000 miles on it. So now I’m individually testing components, currently I have the dcom controller out running the manual test.

Title: Re: Is the Clymer wrong?
Post by verslagen1 on 07/09/21 at 11:07:13

You can also work thru each connection to see where the problem is.
Use a voltmeter and check v at the battery, then pull the right connector under the tank and check the orange wire, reconnect it, then pull the clutch safety connector and one of those wires should have v on it. It does go thru the side stand relay, not sure which wire, then it goes to the starter relay.

Title: Re: Is the Clymer wrong?
Post by Dan Stafford on 07/09/21 at 11:31:23

How do you feel about decomp deletion?

Title: Re: Is the Clymer wrong?
Post by verslagen1 on 07/09/21 at 16:26:44

6B575A5B4A5B5A4D5651503F0 wrote:

How do you feel about decomp deletion?

I've done it, others have too.
But, from time to time you might be in a situation where you can't start the bike. You need to add a manual decomp lever and may have to deactivate the clutch safety.

Title: Re: Is the Clymer wrong?
Post by Dan Stafford on 07/09/21 at 17:52:54

Never mind I got it! Had to jump green and yellow and black and yellow inside the pin connector. This keeps 12 V to the switch. I agree about the clutch safety though that’s next I was just happy to ride that thing around the block LOL! ;D