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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> replacement bolts... /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1606447080 Message started by chimmu on 11/26/20 at 19:18:00 |
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Title: replacement bolts... Post by chimmu on 11/26/20 at 19:18:00 I recently bought a used 2015 S40 which has some bolts oxidized and some rusted. The bike was parked outside/outdoors for some time I believe. Is there an easy way to order many of bolts which can be replaced on the bike? or even a list of them based on the section of the bike. Thanks. |
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Title: Re: replacement bolts... Post by verslagen1 on 11/26/20 at 22:33:48 There is no kit that I know of, replacement bolts can be bought from oem suppliers such as bikebandit or the like. engine bolt kits can be found on fleabay. |
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Title: Re: replacement bolts... Post by norm92de on 11/27/20 at 08:14:59 I have replaced many of the bolts on my 2014 with SS socket head bolts. I did it a few at a time. Much nicer, no more rust. The bolts are widely available at hardware stores. |
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Title: Re: replacement bolts... Post by chimmu on 11/27/20 at 19:29:05 thanks! will find them locally and replace some at a time.. <update> Actually I was searching online and I came across the OEM parts section at Revzilla where you can find the exact bolt/nut replacements. https://www.revzilla.com/oem/suzuki/2015-suzuki-s40-boulevard |
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Title: Re: replacement bolts... Post by Dave on 11/28/20 at 03:05:03 373C3D393921540 wrote:
While that may seem like a good idea - you will find that stock replacement hardware is pretty expensive. Also the current Covid affair is making it very difficult to get any OEM parts online. The online dealers don't stock Suzuki parts - they order parts from their supplier and send them to you. Earlier this year I tried to order the plastic stone guards that are on top of the forks. My forks were apart and waiting for them to arrive. After 2 months of waiting I was lucky that our member Ruttly had some and I bought them from him and cancelled my online order. On November 3rd I ordered a few Suzuki bolts and a couple oil seals for the compression release shaft on the Suzuki Savage. Every few days I get an email from the seller telling me that there has been a delay and the parts have not yet shipped. If/when you go online and the parts list shows the in stock - that doesn't really mean the seller has it sitting on a shelf waiting for you to buy it from them.......I believe it only means that the part is available from the supplier. So - my suggestion is that you buy replacement nuts/bolts from you local hardware store when they are available - and only order them from Suzuki when they are specific bolts/nuts for a special application. I bought this stainless engine bolt set off eBay, and it is nice and works great. When you install the engine bolts - be very careful not to over tighten them. The aluminum threads in the engine block are easily stripped if you apply too much torque. Use a small torque wrench that measures in inch pounds.....don't attempt to use a 150 ft/lb torque wrench set to a low setting - as they just aren't accurate at those low settings. (If you don't have a torque wrench use one hand on a 3/8" ratchet with the palm of your hand near the head of the ratchet). |
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Title: Re: replacement bolts... Post by Zepp on 11/28/20 at 05:37:57 48434246465E2B0 wrote:
Its this, Im a milimeter guy, living in Sweden.. and to that im working at a car making suplier, I have all sorts of bolts in my garage, and could get some more if needed. In any case, I prefer Allen head bolts.. to that I can buy stainless on my local hardware shop if i like! But this is in Europe,, an easy task. At last, im a workshop guy, know a bit of milimeter, UNC/UNF, whitworth, any other bolts and treads! In any case, go to a local hardware shop, and buy better/often cheaper bolts.. and if you like Allen heads and/or stainles, what ever! In anyway one dont like rusty bolt heads, change them, first as it look awful on a bike, for the other, could it be rusty inside of the aluminium casings.. perticaly if there is on the engin! The thing is, that original bolts is the cheapest for manufactories to buy, but is expensive to buy as spare parts! The only bolts that is importante to buy as spareparts is head bolts, or other bolts that conect moving parts, or bearing bolts! |
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Title: Re: replacement bolts... Post by Gary_in_NJ on 11/28/20 at 05:48:11 Also know that stainless steel fasteners are more brittle than what you currently have on your bike. For that reason they shouldn’t be used to support a heavy load in sheer. The engine/frame through bolts come to mind. |
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Title: Re: replacement bolts... Post by Zepp on 11/28/20 at 07:09:55 272D29232821252C727470400 wrote:
And as I is a workshop guy with a minor university examina on mecanical engenering, I have to coment this.. you got it almoste right. Its this, stanless steal have different behavings, it could be ferro or martensit or Austenitic, dont get in to this.. its a jungle! But there are some comon isues, its not brital at first, but could get brittle if ounder tensil strench. In any case, I think those bolts cald stainless is acid stainless steel? Then I think that is Austenitic stainless steel? Its better to sustain acids and not get rusty, in a very acid invoronment, or outside in winter? But carbon steel is better as fastening, perticaly for parts that need hard fastening.. and they dont get brittle that fast! Hope that my 1,5 years of universety study could could have make me to made some understandble ansver? And dont even ask about ferrit, martensit and austenitic stanless steel! Its Austenitic steel in those bolts you byu in a major hardware shop! |
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Title: Re: replacement bolts... Post by Hiko on 11/28/20 at 18:05:06 I would definitely change the head to header bolts with studs and dome nuts rusty or not. |
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Title: Re: replacement bolts... Post by Zepp on 11/29/20 at 09:12:08 In any case, there are a lot of bolts and nuts! The major parts are 8.8 and 12.9! Its a EU standard, in US it could be some other value? in any other case,, its international standard based on kilogram! 8.8 says, the first number tells about the force to break it, the other number tells about the force to prolonge it! 8.8 is often blank and coated whit zink. 12.9 is often black no zink coating, they are for extra endurance, often internaly in engins or similar conditions! I dont know about nuts that are 12.9.. my 1,5 years at universety says that its the nut that should get broken befor the bolt! Its probably some sort of enginering kind of best solution, in moste case? And for god sake, dont even ask my about the values and how to understand them, it was 20 years ago I was study and Im now going to be retired sooon! |
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Title: Re: replacement bolts... Post by justin_o_guy2 on 11/29/20 at 18:32:27 I buy bolts from Longview bolt and screw. Hardware stores are expensive. Someone Sells to the hardware stores That's where I go |
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Title: Re: replacement bolts... Post by Hiko on 11/29/20 at 19:26:07 7E415454240 wrote:
I have been retired for a long time now and spent all my working life in the engineering game I have seen a lot of broken bolts but cant recall seeing a broken nut I had a university type ask me to test some bolts and nuts to destruction for him one time He wanted to know at what point the threads would strip. He was most surprised when the bolts snapped every time which in my experience is usually the case with properly sized bolts and nuts. |
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Title: Re: replacement bolts... Post by verslagen1 on 11/29/20 at 19:56:12 in tension or torque? |
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Title: Re: replacement bolts... Post by Hiko on 11/29/20 at 22:37:32 Good question The bolts and nuts were put in tension with a hydraulic ram as that was the expected load condition The end use was for a wharf construction and from memory were around 3/4 inch diameter |
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Title: Re: replacement bolts... Post by verslagen1 on 11/30/20 at 05:50:28 Our bolt fail when being torqued so it's a different issue... usually. |
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Title: Re: replacement bolts... Post by Zepp on 11/30/20 at 13:03:14 7A4F5C5850583D0 wrote:
I have been retired for a long time now and spent all my working life in the engineering game I have seen a lot of broken bolts but cant recall seeing a broken nut I had a university type ask me to test some bolts and nuts to destruction for him one time He wanted to know at what point the threads would strip. He was most surprised when the bolts snapped every time which in my experience is usually the case with properly sized bolts and nuts.[/quote] Applied mecanics was not my best subject. :-[ In any case I was not studying to be a full enginer, but have to read about basics, and the words that i got is that ordany nuts are small and have not that many treads, they supose to go befor the bolt it self. In other cases, like bolts that conect the head to the block, preferely on car engines, there are full lenght treads, and one often have to replace those bolts everytime becuse one often have strengthen the bolt alredy.. to some limits. In anyway, I got my degree! |
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Title: Re: replacement bolts... Post by Zepp on 11/30/20 at 13:29:05 213225243B3630323966570 wrote:
Are you using this 8,8 and 12,9 markings in US for bolts? In anyway, the first digit is some Newton force per square millimeter to break it, the other digit is Newtons to prolong it, whitout going back! However, there are no strenght to consider on bolts that holds engin covers, cowlings and heatshields. |
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Title: Re: replacement bolts... Post by Dave on 11/30/20 at 16:31:52 677463627D7076747F20110 wrote:
Most of the engine head cover and side cover bolts thread into aluminum - so the limiting factor on torque is often the aluminum! The torque value on these is very low - so you can substitute stainless for the original bolts with no issues.....don't overtorque either type! I also have no problem using stainless on body or seat fasteners, or other places where little Doo-Dads are hung on the bike. In those places like axles, swing arms, footpegs, brake calipers, forks and handlebars are located.......I don't feel comfortable replacing those bolts with hardware store parts. I have a lot of stainless fasteners on my bikes.....including the original body fasteners on the BMW's - you don't need a lot of strength to hold on sheet metal or plastic. |
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