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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Torque limiter swap? /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1586445460 Message started by Berzerker on 04/09/20 at 08:17:40 |
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Title: Torque limiter swap? Post by Berzerker on 04/09/20 at 08:17:40 I have a 87, I'm gonna swap starter gear for torque limiter. Just want to make sure I'm understanding it right, I can get the torque limiter and crank case cover off of a 96 or later and it will all just bolt on? If so, does anyone have a crank case cover for sale? |
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Title: Re: Torque limiter swap? Post by verslagen1 on 04/09/20 at 10:04:55 Yup, that's right, it's bolt on. And it is possible to have the cover modified to accept the new gear. |
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Title: Re: Torque limiter swap? Post by Armen on 04/09/20 at 10:37:31 FWIW, It took a little bit of machining, but I made the new parts fit my old style motor. |
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Title: Re: Torque limiter swap? Post by Berzerker on 04/09/20 at 16:16:53 Thank u VERRY much. |
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Title: Re: Torque limiter swap? Post by batman on 04/13/20 at 13:10:09 I believe the machining is done to the side case, due to the new gear being wider , some of the case is ground away where the gear's shaft enters the case. |
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Title: Re: Torque limiter swap? Post by verslagen1 on 04/13/20 at 13:14:04 3C3F2A333F306A665E0 wrote:
Machining is done to the cover, about a 1/2" is removed from the boss. |
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Title: Re: Torque limiter swap? Post by Berzerker on 04/13/20 at 15:31:44 I found the old thread, it says take about a half inch off and u have to drill out the center of it to a bigger diameter. Doesn't sound to complicated, but I have a questions? What does not taking enough off do? What does taking to much off do? Do I just drill out the center enough to fit new shaft? I guess what I'm trying to get at is Are there certain tolerances I should be following? |
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Title: Re: Torque limiter swap? Post by verslagen1 on 04/13/20 at 20:22:42 http://i840.photobucket.com/albums/zz322/bug_dragon89/IMGP0489.jpg cut this boss down, do not drill the shaft hole. |
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Title: Re: Torque limiter swap? Post by verslagen1 on 04/13/20 at 21:05:18 655844447A5E5B5B5245370 wrote:
less is easy to fix, remove more, too much add washers. On stator covers without the torque limiter, the boss is .513" below the surface. On stator covers without the torque limiter, the boss is 1.034" below the surface. When you put it back together, take out the starter and push the gear back and forth. Too much slop? add washers. bound up and starter won't turn, skinny washers or remove more material. And washers only go on the torque limiter gear. |
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Title: Re: Torque limiter swap? Post by Armen on 04/14/20 at 06:01:05 Hey, if you're in that far, do the light flywheel! A few more steps. Dave has light flywheels, and a tool kit available for the project. |
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Title: Re: Torque limiter swap? Post by Berzerker on 04/16/20 at 15:46:06 Thank u Verslagen, for the specs. A light flywheel? Wouldn't a heavier fly wheel be better for such a big single? I mean, if u have to cut throttle real fast I wouldn't think u would have the momentum to keep from stalling? I'll look into that. |
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Title: Re: Torque limiter swap? Post by Armen on 04/16/20 at 17:15:29 Talk to Dave :-) And Drag Bike Mike... |
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Title: Re: Torque limiter swap? Post by Dave on 04/17/20 at 04:16:41 0C312D2D133732323B2C5E0 wrote:
I haven't noticed any huge change in the tendency to stall in a throttle chop. When you get in to an emergency stop and have to hit the brakes hard and chop the throttle instantly - sometimes the engine can stall. It is a carb issue more than a flywheel issue - if your engine is cranking 4,000 rpm and you instantly close the throttle - you have a huge vacuum pulling on the closed carb throat - and all the jets are closed except the idle circuit. The high vacuum pulls a lot of air past the closed slide - but there is very little fuel to mix with the air.......the result is a mixture that is so lean the spark plug cannot ignite it. It has also been suggested that if you are braking very hard all the fuel in the float bowl surges forward and the jets cannot pick up any fuel. As the engine rpm slows down and the high vacuum diminishes the fuel/air mixture can return to normal and the engine resume firing with the spark plug the engine can begin to idle - but sometimes it stalls. The stock CV carb has a TEV that is supposed to add additional fuel in those high vacuum situations and it may help prevent stalling during instant throttle close situations. My engine has the Mikuni VM round slide carb with the jetting set up for clean running while the throttle is open, and I have the idle set at 1,100 rpm. About twice a year somebody forces me into a panic stop scenario and the engine stalls. If I had to come to a full stop in a hurry I have a lot of tidying up to do, as I generally would still be in 4th or 5th gear. For most of the hard braking I don't stall the engine and I have enough time to get into a proper gear to get rolling once the emergency is over. It could be that jetting the bike richer at idle could provide more fuel for those panic stops - but I don't want to ride a bike that is running too rich so that it might avoid stalling with a chopped throttle. If the engine stalls I can generally hit the starter button and fire it right back up before I roll to a stop and I can just keep on riding. The Savage engine has a very heavy electrical rotor, a very heavy crankshaft, a very heavy counterbalance shaft that spins twice the engine speed - the flywheel can be cut down without making any negative impact on the way the engine runs or the bike rides. When I went to the middle weight flywheel from the stock one I got a 1/2 second reduction in my 0-60 times (my GPS speedometer has a 0-60 mph timer). http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1504271719/0 |
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