SuzukiSavage.com /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Any Paint Experts /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1576772721 Message started by Gary_in_NJ on 12/19/19 at 08:25:20

Title: Any Paint Experts Post by Gary_in_NJ on 12/19/19 at 08:25:20 I know this isn't Savage related...but there are some very smart people on this forum and I'd like to tap into the knowledge base here. It is a technical question and may help a Savage owner in the future. I'm finally finishing my DRZ Street Tracker project (just in time for it to sit in my garage for 3 months of winter). I had an extensive punch list and I'm literately bolting the final pieces onto the bike. The major fabrication for the Street Tracker was adapting a fuel tank from a mid-70's Suzuki TS125 onto a modern DRZ. It required welding bosses/mounting points onto the DRZ frame and brackets onto the TS tank. My buddy who did the welding for me got a little over zealous on one of the brackets and heated the tank to the point where the pristine 40+ year old paint bubbled. I've attached a photo of the damage. I don't want to repair the damage (it's on the underside of the tank and completely unnoticable) but I do want to keep it from propagating and flaking. Can anyone offer advice on how I might save the paint from further damage?

Title: Re: Any Paint Experts Post by SpamyToo on 12/19/19 at 20:11:56 I wouldnt consider myself a professional but have painted a lot of bikes and a few cars (and a butt load of houses). Similar to what Dave said.  Looks like you gotta paint those welds anyways so, 1. Lightly clean up the loose paint. 2. Mask an area that includes all the bare metal and some of the yellow stock paint. 3. Sand the bare metal and stock paint lightly (maybe 800 grit), within that masked area. 4. Primer the bare metal (keep the repair part light, primer can build up fast). 5. Assuming you dont want to buy color matched paint. Buy the closest yellow you can get in Dupli-color aerosol paint (from O-reily or where ever). Paint the area with 3 or 4 coats. 6. You will either be left with a ridge from the new paint to old, or you can try to fade it in to the old.  Then use a little polish to make the transition less noticeable. Theres other options, but thats pretty quick and easy for a spot that you cant see under normal conditions.

Title: Re: Any Paint Experts Post by batman on 12/19/19 at 21:21:26 I don't know no much about painting but due to the location of the tank right over the motor,  I would use an etching primer on the bo-bo  and the new raw steel mounts ,as it should bite into bare metal giving a strong base ,  rather than epoxy which may need to be ruff sanded(400-600 grit) before the finish coat , may not play nice with other paints,  and  starts to soften at about 140 F. Even a good two part epoxy (Eastwood) is only rated for 250F  ,temperature of a stock Savage head runs 270 to 300F  and is below the gas tank . Hot days , and city stop and go traffic conditions might cause problems.

Title: Re: Any Paint Experts Post by Dave on 12/20/19 at 04:54:09 I deleted my post - as Batman with his limited experience believes he knows better.  I specifically avoided the use of etching primer, as it has a strong acid in it and I don't like using the etching primer on areas where it will contact existing paint (it works great on bare metal).  But obviously Batman has a superior knowledge in him limited experience and is willing to correct me when I am so obviously wrong. I used epoxy primer on every piece of my motorcycle......even the fuel tank.  I also used it on the Ninja fuel tank, the Savage fuel tank where I welded up the speedometer hole, and the last 2 cars I restored.  Sanding the metal parts and getting some "tooth" for any primer to adhere is always a good idea and helps with adhesion on existing paint - but if you notice the factory primer/paint is applied to clean metal and there are no scratches from the factory sanding anything before they paint. I am not why Batman feels the fuel tank is going to get up over 240 degrees when it has fuel in it - but once again I am obviously wrong in suggesting that epoxy primer should be used. My tank has been on the bike for more than 10,000 miles with the epoxy primer...I guess I should stop riding it as it is likely going to fall off from the affects of engine heat any day now. I will not post in this thread again - as Batman obviously has it all figure out.   :-/

Title: Re: Any Paint Experts Post by Eegore on 12/20/19 at 05:29:19  I have epoxy primer on 4 different bikes due to continual modifications.    I have never experienced any softening in any location, I would think it would work fine unless you are heating your tank up to 250 degrees for some reason.

Title: Re: Any Paint Experts Post by Dennisgb on 12/20/19 at 08:26:08 Once you repair the area I would shoot the entire tank with a 2 part clear coat to protect against fuel damage. You can get 2 part in spray cans with the epoxy in the bottom which you activate when ready to spray.

Title: Re: Any Paint Experts Post by batman on 12/21/19 at 13:39:49 Well Dave ,thanks for all those kind words , I'm almost surprised you didn't remove my post! I guess you missed the first seven words in my reply. I didn't say epoxy wouldn't work ,I haven 't ever used it, I meant to convey that it may not do well near the motor's top end due to the heat.  How close the area is to the head will depend on the mounting,  the flange where the tank side and bottom meet face down and might absorb heat which can't be dispersed by fuel ,as none is present . Sorry to have caused you to have a hissy fit just by voicing a different opinion ,but  epoxy can soften and run at as low as 140F and what to be used should be based on what the owner sees fit to use ,not you or I . I am disappointed that as a moderator you seem not to allow any point of view other than your own, it seems poor form.

Title: Re: Any Paint Experts Post by justin_o_guy2 on 12/22/19 at 22:39:36 Nifty product that turns iron oxide into iron phosphate available at Kelly Moore. A quart is under ten bucks. After you've cleaned it to shiny metal, use it. It'll react with the rust . It may look clean, but some is lingering. And it'll blossom eventually. Liquid, not gel. Used to be called Ospho Renamed a while back. It's dilute phosphoric acid. Get some good masking tape, protect the good paint. Waste tape, put on layers if that's what you need to do to avoid a complete paint job. Fwiw, I haven't been without some of that in my shop in twenty years. It's just that handy to have around.

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