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Message started by Vinny68 on 04/17/19 at 15:39:35

Title: Clutch kill switch
Post by Vinny68 on 04/17/19 at 15:39:35

Good day all.  I have a 2014 Suzuki that I have had about 9 months.  She has no mods and is right at 3100 miles.  I went to start her up last night and instead of cranking it clicked, then neutral lite turned off. I made sure the kickstand was down, reset the key and the neutral lite turned on but when I tried to start it it clicked again and neutral lite kicked off.  Took me several minutes to get it started and I was able to ride it home.  

Today I went out and same thing except this time I noticed when I moved the front forks the neutral lite blinked.  So I am wondering where the clutch kill switch coupler or adapter is located.  I am thinking that maybe something is just loose during last nights initial ride and needs to be plugged back in.

Any assistance would be appreciated.

Title: Re: Clutch kill switch
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 04/17/19 at 16:07:50

Turn the key on, in neutral.
Wiggle wires.
Pretty good chance there is a connector under the tank that is in the process of vibrating loose. Pretty low mileage for that, but possible.
Do any wires show signs of being pinched?
Any being bent hard and opened up with the handlebars being turned lock to lock?

Don't leave the key on more than a few minutes , or disconnect the ignition system. If it's at TDC it's firing the plug.
Or, that's my best guess.

Title: Re: Clutch kill switch
Post by Vinny68 on 04/17/19 at 18:26:57

That was my thought as welll, I was hoping to narrow down where the connection is made.  My hope is under the seat  but it is probably under the tank.

Title: Re: Clutch kill switch
Post by batman on 04/17/19 at 19:58:32

I'd check / test  , the clutch switch , under the lever on the bars ,  and the main connectors under the tank (left side ) and the  speedo - ( neutral light) , and make sure the battery is fully charged.

Title: Re: Clutch kill switch
Post by Vinny68 on 04/17/19 at 20:03:36

Thanks I will check the switch.  The battery is good, had a minder on it all last, it is at 100%.. Where is the connection for the clutch switch to the kill switch?

Title: Re: Clutch kill switch
Post by batman on 04/17/19 at 20:19:35

If you disconnect the wires at the clutch switch ,you could use a volt/ohm meter  to test both.  turning on the key ,would send power through the kill switch and could be read at the clutch switch connector (one of the wires will show 12v with the kill switch on zero volts when off)  .      
   OHMs could be used to show continuity through the clutch switch.(when the lever is pulled in).

Title: Re: Clutch kill switch
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 04/17/19 at 20:59:15

when I tried to start it it clicked again and neutral lite kicked off.  

Neutral light should not go off.
Regardless of any interlock.

Title: Re: Clutch kill switch
Post by verslagen1 on 04/17/19 at 21:55:28


4F4C59404C4319152D0 wrote:
If you disconnect the wires at the clutch switch ,you could use a volt/ohm meter  to test both.  turning on the key ,would send power through the kill switch and could be read at the clutch switch connector (one of the wires will show 12v with the kill switch on zero volts when off)


Almost right, you gotta push the start button to get volts at the clutch safety.  That's the only time it's active.

Title: Re: Clutch kill switch
Post by Dave on 04/18/19 at 04:57:03

Have you checked your battery or battery connections?

It sounds to me like the battery powers things up - but when you hit the start button the high amperage draw pulls the voltage so low that even the neutral light goes out.

Just because you have a battery tender on the bike....doesn't mean the battery has not gone bad.  I rode my ST1100 up to the hardware store, then down to the gas station....and when I tried to start the bike a the gas station it didn't even have enough power to run the neutral light.  It turns out a battery can die instantly.  You need to put a voltmeter on the battery and see what the voltage is at rest....and what happens to the voltage when you push the start button.

Title: Re: Clutch kill switch
Post by Vinny68 on 04/18/19 at 05:40:47

You are absolutely correct, the neutral light should not be going off at all.  Rather the way it acted before, if I failed to pull in the clutch was it simply failed to start.  Now I have to wonder if the starter cable has a loose connection somewhere.  

Title: Re: Clutch kill switch
Post by batman on 04/18/19 at 06:26:29

You could be sure the ground cable running from the battery,  is clean and tight at the motor case.  located about two inches above the oil sight glass and about that far in.

Title: Re: Clutch kill switch
Post by Dave on 04/18/19 at 11:51:38

I have a question about the "sequence" of events.  Is this the scenario?

You turn the ignition ON and the neutral light glows, you hit the starter button and hear a "click" and the neutral light goes out.....then when you release the starter button the neutral light glows (although perhaps a bit slow and a bit dimly).

If so.......I am convinced the battery is bad and cannot power the starter solenoid or starter.

Title: Re: Clutch kill switch
Post by Vinny68 on 04/18/19 at 11:56:07

I would say that sequence is correct except the neutral light does not return immediately.  Sometimes I have had to turn the key off and back on, sometimes twist the handlebars or bring the kickstand up and back down.  To be honest I did the kickstand and handlebars because I thought it was the kill switch.  I am becoming more and more convinced it is a loose wire on the starter switch side.  When I get time this weekend, I am going to dig in and find it.

Title: Re: Clutch kill switch
Post by Dave on 04/18/19 at 12:14:29

A loose wire on the starter switch side really doesn't explain why the neutral light goes away........it should stay on regardless of what the starter is doing.

The first thing I would do is get your battery tested.

Title: Re: Clutch kill switch
Post by Vinny68 on 04/18/19 at 12:20:29

Fair point, I will also ensure the battery is still good as well.

Title: Re: Clutch kill switch
Post by Eegore on 04/18/19 at 14:25:57

 I agree with Dave, start with the battery, all other electrical connection issues can not be accurately assessed if the source of the electricity is not performing to standard.    

Title: Re: Clutch kill switch
Post by batman on 04/18/19 at 16:42:32

You can have a good battery ,fully charged, but still show the same symptoms,  if the circuit isn't complete (grounded).

Title: Re: Clutch kill switch
Post by Dave on 04/18/19 at 19:05:04


5457425B5758020E360 wrote:
You can have a good battery ,fully charged, but still show the same symptoms,  if the circuit isn't complete (grounded).


True - but I bet far more batteries go bad than ground strap issues.  Vinny68 has not let us know how old the battery is....at this point we are all just speculating based on our experiences.  I have never had a ground strap go bad......I have had to replace batteries in every bike I have owned (Probably because I buy used bikes and the batteries are already several years old when I buy them).  I find it a bit odd that car batteries seem to give you plenty of warning that they are getting old as they start cranking the engine over noticeably slower before they fail - while motorcycle batteries work fine....then suddenly don't.

It doesn't hurt to check both......but since you suggested he check the ground strap in Post #10 - I didn't see any reason to repeat it.

When chasing electrical gremlins - I always start at the battery and work my way outward in the circuit.

Title: Re: Clutch kill switch
Post by Vinny68 on 04/18/19 at 19:32:00

I went out and played with it some this evening and it started fine several times.  As for the battery, I cannot find a date on it but I suspect it is original to the bike but the battery charger indicates, 100% at 12.8 volts.

I did have a problem with the lighting system when I first go the bike last September, the coupler was not firmly connected.  I wonder if the dealer took the tank off prepping the bike and did not the connections firmly reconnected.

Title: Re: Clutch kill switch
Post by Dave on 04/18/19 at 19:44:59

If the bike started several times......then the battery and ground strap are likely fine.  A 2014 with the original battery means it may be 5 years old - however the bike may not have sold in 2014 and they likely did not activate the battery until it was sold......sometimes these bikes can sit on the showroom floor for a year two.

If the problem is intermittent and you can get the problem to go away by jiggling wires or turning the handlebars......I would suggest removing the tank and checking the connectors for tightness or corrosion.

Title: Re: Clutch kill switch
Post by Vinny68 on 04/18/19 at 19:54:20

I did not have time tonight but that is my goal for the weekend.  I failed to mention I had rode her about 20 miles last night for a meeting.  When I came out after the meeting it would not start, so my first thought was kill switch.  Now I am inclined to think something is loose or unplugged.  I appreciate all the help working through this issue, electrical is just not my thing.  I did break down and ordered the Clymer book to help me  in the future, I though I know the book has some issues but better than nothing.

Title: Re: Clutch kill switch
Post by Dave on 04/19/19 at 04:27:23

Here is a link to the wiring diagrams in the Tech Section.
http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1294779818

When the neutral light (and starter circuit) go out.....does everything else still work (lights, turns signals, horn, etc)?

The indicator lights in the speedometer are spliced into the wires for the turn signals and high beam - so you could completely unhook the speedometer indicator light harness and the bike would still function normally - However it could be the Neutral light is required for the stater circuit to work.....as it is connected to the diode in the starter circuit and may have to be in the circuit for the starter to work (I am not certain of this).  In order to check this connector you will have to get the tank up off the frame....this requires removing the seat, unhooking petcock vacuum and fuel lines - the stock vacuum petcock also hits the frame and will need to be removed on most bikes.....then you can unbolt the back of the tank and slide it back out of the front mounts and tip the front of the gas tank up to reach the connector (you will not have to unhook the speedometer cable unless you remove the tank).

The other harness connectors you should check are on the left and right side of the frame....you may be able to reach them without removing the fuel tank.  They are at the front of the tank very near to the bottom.   

Title: Re: Clutch kill switch
Post by verslagen1 on 04/19/19 at 06:33:04


1F24293E2F23383E252D203F4C0 wrote:
The indicator lights in the speedometer are spliced into the wires for the turn signals and high beam - so you could completely unhook the speedometer indicator light harness and the bike would still function normally - However it could be the Neutral light is required for the stater circuit to work.....as it is connected to the diode in the starter circuit and may have to be in the circuit for the starter to work (I am not certain of this).  


The bike will start with the tank off... done it many times.

Title: Re: Clutch kill switch
Post by Vinny68 on 04/20/19 at 12:52:26

I think I found it, I pulled the seat and the tank off the bike and began checking the electrical couplers.  The one on right side under the tank, directly off the starter switch was loose.  I gave it pull and it popped right apart.  I snapped it back together and put a zip tie on it, I do not think that it will be coming loose again.  Thanks again for all the help gentlemen, I appreciate it.

 

Title: Re: Clutch kill switch
Post by batman on 04/20/19 at 18:25:33

I think your battery's OK, but I would have thought that it might read around 13+volts coming right off charging, and the mid to high 12's if you let it sit overnight. For that reason and the  fact that it could be old ,I'd think of replacing it for piece of mind.

Title: Re: Clutch kill switch
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 04/20/19 at 19:35:33

The one on right side under the tank, directly off the starter switch was loose.

No Kidding? Too bad nobody suggested looking for a connector under the tank that is vibrating loose a few days ago..
:D :D

Title: Re: Clutch kill switch
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 04/20/19 at 19:42:14

I would have put off pulling that blasted tank until I had covered other things too. It's a Frikken pain..

Title: Re: Clutch kill switch
Post by Vinny68 on 04/20/19 at 19:52:40

I had wiggled the wiring harness but nothing happened, the neutral lite did not even flicker.  It was not till I pulled the tank off and could peel back the cover that I could tell the plug was not secure.  It looked to be in far enough to power everything but when the starter button was pushed, I wonder if it arced.

Title: Re: Clutch kill switch
Post by Vinny68 on 04/20/19 at 19:54:39

The tank was not too bad since I had already replaced the petcock with a Yamaha petcock.

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