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Message started by Manco12 on 07/26/18 at 13:20:24

Title: Valve cover replacement
Post by Manco12 on 07/26/18 at 13:20:24

I have some questions about putting the valve cover back on.

1. I didnt set it to tdc before removing, does this matter?
2. Why does it actually have to be set to tdc on the conpression stroke before replacing it, out if curiosity.

3. I uploaded 2 pictures showing the cam lobes. Can tdc of the compression stroke be verified this way, and if so which picture is the right one? And is lining up the tdc mark accurate enough? (And using the lobes to determine compression or exhaust)

Title: Re: Valve cover replacement
Post by Manco12 on 07/26/18 at 13:32:04

Okay sorry had to resize the pictures. But if You click on the image it shows both, I'm curious if the top picture or bottom picture is the compression stroke. Thank you

Title: Re: Valve cover replacement
Post by verslagen1 on 07/26/18 at 13:33:00

1. no.
2. setting it to tdc just makes it easier to install, then adjust the valves.
3. the alignment pin on the cam/gear interface will be at 1 o'clock, rotate till it is.
3. cont. yes, if you're re-installing a used cam chain, the horizontal cam mark will be slightly raised due to chain stretch.

http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/cam_line_up.JPG

Title: Re: Valve cover replacement
Post by Manco12 on 07/26/18 at 13:44:13

All I'm doing is putting the valve cover back on after installing the head plug.

"2. setting it to tdc just makes it easier to install, then adjust the valves."

The valve cover easier to install? Right now im just worried about getting this bike in one piece. So im focused on putting the valve cover on, dont need to adjust the valves right now unless youre supposed to after reinstalling the valve cover?

Title: Re: Valve cover replacement
Post by verslagen1 on 07/26/18 at 14:02:28

yes, with the engine at tdc, you won't have to fight the valve springs to get it on.
yes, you must adjust the valves afterward because you may have more or less rtv between the cover and head.

Title: Re: Valve cover replacement
Post by Manco12 on 07/26/18 at 14:37:27

Ahh thank you. So I guess another way to verify compression stroke tdc would be the cam lobes facing down and the valve cover sits flush. As the valve cover doesn't sit flush on the other tdc because the valve springs.

I'm just trting to make sense of all this in my head, ive always been scared to touch engines because it all confuses me to death. I'm not good at thinking about things that I cant see with my own eyes

Title: Re: Valve cover replacement
Post by Manco12 on 07/26/18 at 15:03:05

I guess my next concern is.. I can get the valve cover offand on with the engine in place.. But how the neck am I gunba do this with the ebgine in the bike without smearing any of the sealant? Seems like its bound to happen

Title: Re: Valve cover replacement
Post by DragBikeMike on 07/26/18 at 17:39:12

The first time I had mine off I could see it was going to be a struggle to get it back in place without screwing up the sealant. So I did three or four dry runs articulating the cover around to make sure I had an install routine that would get the cover in place without messing up the sealant. At first, it was like a puzzle, but eventually I found all the right angles and dangles to get the cover in place without touching the sealing surface and messing things up.

Make sure you apply the sealant in an extremely thin coat and keep it well away from the cam bearings. If you squeeze out sealant into the cam bearing chamfers you run the risk of preventing proper oil flow through the top end. That will spell death to your cam, rocker arms and possibly the entire engine. Also stay clear of the oil feed hole identified by a teardrop shaped cavity with an o-ring. Don't slop sealant all over that or you will have the same problem (i.e. no oil to top end).

Awhile back I did a post on a sealant applicator. That thread had a ton of good comments on how to apply the sealant. I am attaching a picture of the applicator and will look back through and find the post on sealant.

Title: Re: Valve cover replacement
Post by DragBikeMike on 07/26/18 at 17:49:30

The post on "sealant applicator" is dated 5/5/18.

suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1525551307

Hopefully this link will get you there. If not, just go back a few pages and you should be able to find it pretty easy.

Title: Re: Valve cover replacement
Post by batman on 07/26/18 at 18:34:52

You should install the long bolt in the head cover before placing it on the motor as the frame will not allow room to get it in later.

Title: Re: Valve cover replacement
Post by Dave on 07/27/18 at 08:07:22

Yep.....as Batman says there is one bolt in the center that will be under the main frame tube - that you can't get in/out after the head is in place.

I put a piece of tape on the bolt to keep it from dropping down too far while I am installing the head cover - then pull the tape off once the head cover is in place. Practice doing this a few times before you put the sealer on - it helps you to get coordinated.

Don't over tighten the head cover screws - they strip easily as there is a narrow range between tight......and too tight! The last head I did I followed a suggestion by Verslagen and first snugged them all up a bit, then went around and torqued them all down. Then 10 minutes later I checked/torqued them all again....the again at 20 minutes. This helps to account for the movement/compression of the sealer.

Title: Re: Valve cover replacement
Post by batman on 07/28/18 at 14:20:13

If like me you don't have a torque wrench ,then just tighten them by hand (until you feel the bolts stop) and give them just 1/8 of a turn more. If they weep after running the motor you can give them another 1/8 turn,it is far better to have them leak, than to over tighten and snap them off in the motor which becomes a major problem.

Title: Re: Valve cover replacement
Post by eau de sauvage on 07/28/18 at 16:52:49

1E323D303C6261530 wrote:

...I'm not good at thinking about things that I cant see with my own eyes

You can put a plastic straw down the spark plug hole and then you can see with your own eyes when the piston is at top dead centre. Then it's simply a matter of knowing if it's on the compression stroke or the exhaust stroke which you can easily work out because the exhaust valves will be closed on the way to the TDC compression stroke.