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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Engine Problem on my RYCA Cafe Conversion /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1525204140 Message started by caferacer on 05/01/18 at 12:49:00 |
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Title: Engine Problem on my RYCA Cafe Conversion Post by caferacer on 05/01/18 at 12:49:00 Hello, Appreciative new member here. And I have hit a snag with my Ryca cafe conversion of a 2003 ls650 with 4500 miles. I completed the Ryca cafe racer conversion about 3 weeks ago and have taken about 6 or 7 ten-mile rides on the bike for the purpose of (1) fun obviously and (2) tuning the carb. Bike has a fresh oil change and oil level is proper judging by the window on the engine while bike is level. I removed the brass cover to the mixture screw and adjusted that screw to get a smooth idle and to minimize afterfiring. Before this adjustment, the bike would die at idle occassionally and the throttle would be lurchy and not totally responsive. After the mixture screw adjustment everything was all very smooth and dependable for several short rides (50 miles total) Yesterday, I rode to the YMCA (about 5 miles away). I followed my standard start procedure: 1. Petcock to on position 2. Pulled out choke fully 3. Pressed decompression lever (the ryca part that replaces the stock decompression solenoid) 4. Pressed ignition and released decompression lever. The bike started right up as has been typical. I let it warm up with the choke out for 30 sec or so and then pushed choke back in and idle settled in between 1000 and 1500 rpm. I ride to the YMCA with no problems. Engine is smooth, throttle is responsive, and idle is dependable during 2 or 3 stop lights on the way there. I don't push the bike past 55 to 60mph during the short ride. I park the bike at the YMCA for about 1 hour during my kid's soccer game. The weather is warm, about 75f, but not hot. I get back on bike and it starts right up without the need of using the choke. Stock petcock has been set to on position this whole time. I ride about a mile or two, and the bike dies as I am downshifting during approach of stop light. I coast to the side of the road. The bike starts back up after 3 or 4 tries. I am pretty sure I smell gas. I ride another mile or so and notice that the idle is no longer dependable. I have to keep the rpms up to keep it from dying, like 2k to 3k rpms. The bike dies on me again. It takes me several cranks to get it going again. Pretty sure I smell gas again, and I thought I even saw light puff of smoke somewhere near the engine, but I couldn't tell where it came from. I get it back home, but it is not running right, and it dies as soon as I let off the throttle. The Ryca conversion removes the airbox and just puts an air filter on the intake of the carb. I notice a bit of smoke coming off that air filter. Its not as much smoke as a lit cigarette makes but looks kinda similar. I let the bike cool for an hour so I can take a closer look without getting burnt. My first hunch was that my header pipe screws had vibrated loose and that there was not a good seal at the engine. The fact that I had seen smoke near engine earlier contributed to this hunch. But my header pipe screws were tight. I also confirmed secure connections between my filter/carb and carb/engine. I reluctanty tried starting up again. It did start again after a few cranks but I noticed several things. 1. I saw the same faint mist of smoke near left side of engine. 2. Pretty sure I smelled gas again. 3. A very slight bit of gas was spit out from somewhere near the top left part of the engine because I felt it and the top left side of the engine had a slight residue of gas on it. The bike did not run long or right. I let it die within 20 seconds by letting the rpms down. For the life of me, I can't find the source of the gas on the engine. I detected no leakage/wetness where petcock enters gas tank. Fuel hose appears intact. I just can't figure out where this gas could be misting from. Evidence of gas on the engine is enough to keep me from trying to start again until I get some guidance and a gameplan. I have explored this forum and suspect that a bad petcock may be the problem. But could that explain the puff of smoke near engine, the cigarrette-like smoke from air filter, and the residue of gas on the top left front of the engine? Thanks in advance for any help! |
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Title: Re: Engine Problem on my RYCA Cafe Conversion Post by norm92de on 05/01/18 at 13:17:19 caferacer, Two things come to mind. 1. petcock 2. fuel level in float bowl. Have you changed the petcock for a YAMAHA raptor? |
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Title: Re: Engine Problem on my RYCA Cafe Conversion Post by Dave on 05/01/18 at 13:26:57 What does the level in the crankcase look like - do you have more oil than you did when you started the ride? Does your oil smell like gasoline? Do you have the stock vacuum operated petcock.....or the Yamaha Raptor replacement? |
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Title: Re: Engine Problem on my RYCA Cafe Conversion Post by caferacer on 05/01/18 at 13:27:21 Yeah, I was thinking the petcock may be the problem. I think I will get the Yamaha petcock out of abundance of caution. But does that explain the fuel on the engine and light smoke? Would the fuel come out of the float bowl if the level is wrong. And is a float-bowl-level issue a symptom of a bad petcock or are these two things unrelated? |
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Title: Re: Engine Problem on my RYCA Cafe Conversion Post by norm92de on 05/01/18 at 13:30:07 caferacer, Another thing. How much oil is in the engine? With the engine tipped forward like that how are you determining the proper oil level? Perhaps somebody who has done the RYKA conversion will chime in on this proper oil level thing. |
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Title: Re: Engine Problem on my RYCA Cafe Conversion Post by caferacer on 05/01/18 at 13:44:13 I do not have the Raptor yet, but plan to get it. I just have the stock petcock now. When I did the fresh oil change, I drained completely (I let drip for an hour) then added the amount prescribed by the Clymer manual. But after adding that amount, the oil level looked a bit low in the engine window, so I added just a bit more until the level was right in the middle of the crankcase window. I did consider whether the angle of the engine (due to the longer shocks in the RYCA conversion) may have effected the accuracy of the window level indication. But I just figured I would err on the side of ensuring that the window level was correct. Hope I haven't destroying anything with too much oil. I will do the sniff test to the oil as suggested above, but what would gas smelling oil indicate? |
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Title: Re: Engine Problem on my RYCA Cafe Conversion Post by norm92de on 05/01/18 at 13:58:54 caferacer, If you have a stuck float in the carb. fuel can overflow and drain into the crankcase. Very bad. Too much "oil" and the gas in there doesn't help at all. |
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Title: Re: Engine Problem on my RYCA Cafe Conversion Post by norm92de on 05/01/18 at 14:00:50 I have a Raptor and I religiously turn the gas off when I stop for more than a short time. |
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Title: Re: Engine Problem on my RYCA Cafe Conversion Post by Dave on 05/01/18 at 15:19:58 There are several different scenarios that can occur when the stock petcock decides to be a problem. 1) The diaphragm in the petcock can get stiff, and fail to provide enough fuel flow to keep the engine running. During periods of low vacuum, the diaphragm can fail to flow fuel...and the engine runs out of fuel and stops. After some cranking a bit of fuel may flow into the carb and help the bike to start again. (As a temporary solution/fix/bypass to the problem, you can turn the petcock to PRI and see if the bike runs). 2) The diaphragm can also leak fuel down the vacuum line when it goes bad. This can cause the bike to get too much fuel to the intake port, and as the same time can cause the fuel flow to the float bowl to be erratic. It can also allow fuel to flow into the intake and flood the crankcase with gasoline....and this causes very poor running as the crankshaft is embedded in too much oil/fuel, and the spray can come out the breather hose....which may be the smoke you are seeing. (As a temporary cure you can disconnect the vacuum line to the carb, plug both the carb and petcock ends of the vacuum hose, and set the petcock to PRI. If the crankcase has too much fuel/oil - you need to dump the contaminated oil and filter and start again). 3) The petcock can also be very elusive about failure. You can ride along without issue, then a strong headwind or some freeway riding can result in the bike stopping like it is out of fuel - even though you have lots of fuel. The low intake vacuum that occur when you have the throttle cracked open can result in low intake vacuum - and that can result in the petcock shutting off the fuel flow. There have been several forum members trying to chase down electrical or carb problems that are related to a fuzzy stock petcock. I have a Cafe' conversion where I have used some RYCA parts and modeled my bike based on their conversion. I have 10,000 miles on the bike and you can keep your oil level between the 2 marks on the oil window without issue - but do this with the bike level and not leaned over on the sidestand. You should also consider jetting the carb properly, and doing a white spacer mod.....and actually setting your idle fuel mixture with the engine running and your ears listening - not by just cracking the screw open a bit more. I can't see in the photo where you are running the engine breather hose to.....do you have a filter on the end - or is it open? I would not be surprised to see some smoke come out of this hose when the engine stops.....it likely will emit some water vapor and oil goo out of this tube. |
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Title: Re: Engine Problem on my RYCA Cafe Conversion Post by caferacer on 05/01/18 at 16:29:15 Dave, Thanks so much for the detailed info. I followed up on your oil sniff check and discovered that indeed the oil has a smell of gasoline. I suspect this means that scenario #2 that you describe is the problem. I will inspect the vaccum tube for evidence of gas drainage to confirm. In any event, I'll order the Raptor petcock tonight. Any recommended links to a good supplier? I think my oil level is ok based on the crankcase window indicator. Its between the two notches when bike is held upright and level. But given the gas smell, I'll go ahead and change the oil and filter in abundance of caution. I think my carb tuning was ok. I followed the process described on this forum (thanks Lancer), doing incrimental 1/4 turns on the mix screw during idle to find the sweet spot where idle was fastest/smoothest. And the spacer mod was part of the RYCA kit, so I have done that too. I have the breather tube left open (unfiltered) and loosely zip tied down the right side of the frame. Will check for discharge. Is discharge normal or a symptom of the petcock problems you describe? Many thanks again for your help. I am developing a gameplan. |
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Title: Re: Engine Problem on my RYCA Cafe Conversion Post by norm92de on 05/01/18 at 16:44:12 Whatever you do don't leave the engine breather open. To the air- box or to a filter on the end. |
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Title: Re: Engine Problem on my RYCA Cafe Conversion Post by caferacer on 05/01/18 at 16:49:47 Thanks norm92de. Since I don't have an airbox on my cafe conversion, a filter would be my only option. But can you tell me the function of the breather tube and, in turn, the function of a filter on the breather tube? I am confused about whether the breather tube discharges or sucks air at its ending? |
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Title: Re: Engine Problem on my RYCA Cafe Conversion Post by Dave on 05/01/18 at 19:08:45 7E7C7B786F7C7E786F1D0 wrote:
Since this engine is a single....the crankcase gains volume when the piston goes up, and loses volume when the piston goes down. At low speeds air goes in/out of the vent tube....this evens out as the rpm increases as the air cannot flow in/out of the small tube as quickly as the volume changes.....so a sort of partial vacuum/pressure exchange occurs constantly in the crankcase. Having a filter on the end will prevent dirt from entering through the tube when it is in a vacuum condition in the crankcase. However - the rings don't seal perfectly well and some combustion gases to get past the rings...especially at high throttle settings. Those gases will vent out the tube, and carry some oil and water vapor with it. You want to look for a genuine Raptor petcock. If they don't show the white Yamaha box, and claim it is genuine and include the part number and want about $25 or more...it is not the real deal. https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-YAMAHA-RAPTOR-660-YFM-660R-OEM-FUEL-VALVE-SHUTOFF-PETCOCK-5LP-24500-01-00/273176937668?fits=Make%3AYamaha%7CModel%3ARaptor+660R&epid=1023314198&hash=item3f9a9d44c4:g:DLkAAOSwmfhX4r09&vxp=mtr |
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Title: Re: Engine Problem on my RYCA Cafe Conversion Post by ohiomoto on 05/02/18 at 07:19:13 Your float valve is stuck open. You might be able to tap the carb with a screwdriver to get it moving again. If not, you'll need to pull the carb and pull the needle valve. Might just have some debris lodged in there or it's a bit gunked up. As stated above, change your oil and get a Yamaha Raptor petcock in there ASAP. And, don't mess with jetting until you have it running reliably. |
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Title: Re: Engine Problem on my RYCA Cafe Conversion Post by caferacer on 05/02/18 at 07:29:24 Thanks ohiomoto. Will check the float valve too. Is there anything I need to do, in addition to getting the Raptor petcock, to keep the float valve from sticking in the future? I cleaned the entire carb very well (with carb cleaner) when I changed the pilot jet during the recent RYCA conversion/rebuild. I ordered the Raptor last night. I plan to install that, change the oil/filter, and look into the float valve. Will report back here on the outcome of those efforts. ;) |
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Title: Re: Engine Problem on my RYCA Cafe Conversion Post by batman on 05/04/18 at 11:20:09 what was your reason for changing the pilot ? engine mods? elevation? what size did you install? |
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Title: Re: Engine Problem on my RYCA Cafe Conversion Post by caferacer on 05/04/18 at 17:22:54 I have a 55 pilot jet and 152.5 main jet. This change was called for by the RYCA conversion instructions due to the type of muffler and air filter that were swapped in place of stock muffler and filter. Elevation in my area is about 600 feet. The jet combo I have in there was performing well before I encountered the sudden engine failure that I am currently troubleshooting. Raptor petcock arrives Monday, so will replace that and pull the carb to check float mechanism early next week. Still researching what I should be looking/checking for on the float mechanism, so any suggestions on that are welcomed! I also discovered that the source of the gas expulsion during start attempts after engine failure was almost surely from the carb vent tubes, which makes me even more strongly suspect there may be an issue with my float valve. |
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Title: Re: Engine Problem on my RYCA Cafe Conversion Post by batman on 05/04/18 at 22:26:29 the float valve tip can be worn ,this is seen as a ring around the tip of the valve. The float valve seat (which just pulls out once you remove the screw holding the plate) has an O-ring on the outside , to stop any flow around the valve . The float could have a hole in it shake it ,to detect fuel , or place it in warm water to look for air bubbles. the float level should be 1.02 inches measured from the flange (without the gasket) to the highest point of the rounded float. if the float valve doesn't seat the level will keep rising in the float bowl and would flood out the vents I would not pay strict attention to what Ryca suggests for jets ,as they don't even know about the spacer mod (you should read up, it 's in the Tech Section. |
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Title: Re: Engine Problem on my RYCA Cafe Conversion Post by caferacer on 05/05/18 at 08:33:03 Thanks batman. That gives me a much better idea about what to look for while inspecting the float valve. I think this is this the spacer mod that you mention: http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1104205157 When I did the carb mods, I just followed the instructions in this RYCA video: https://youtu.be/rFFuF9QZ4IM The spacer mod is addressed at 3:56, so I think I'm all set there, but will read up more in the tech section to make sure my spacer is set up ideally. |
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Title: Re: Engine Problem on my RYCA Cafe Conversion Post by caferacer on 05/06/18 at 09:01:58 Ok. Pulled the carb. No leaks in float. Here is my float valve tip. What do yall think...ok or need to replace? |
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Title: Re: Engine Problem on my RYCA Cafe Conversion Post by batman on 05/06/18 at 10:27:08 Is that a rubber tip? not use to seeing that ,I can't remember ,but I think mine is all metal . before you buy new,you might try testing it by hooking up the fuel line to the carb,with the bowl off, and try holding up the float (gently) to see if the valve holds . but generally the tip should be cone shape , that makes the entire length of the cone a sealing surface ,where as the tip your showing here can only seal the width of that small grove. A new valve comes as a matched set the valve ,seat and the O-ring for the outside of the seat. I think I'd go new. |
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Title: Re: Engine Problem on my RYCA Cafe Conversion Post by caferacer on 05/06/18 at 10:35:20 Thanks batman. Yes, it is a rubber tip. But my last question about the valve tip is probably moot now that my float bowl gasket is toast...see pic. I've ordered this carb repair kit that includes the bowl gasket, float valve, and other parts: https://www.amazon.com/Boulevard-Carburetor-Niche-Cycle-Supply/dp/B06XS1KCVW |
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Title: Re: Engine Problem on my RYCA Cafe Conversion Post by Dave on 05/06/18 at 13:33:44 If that is a round ridge in the rubber......the float valve looks crappy to me. It should be a smooth rubber cone without ridges. |
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Title: Re: Engine Problem on my RYCA Cafe Conversion Post by caferacer on 05/06/18 at 14:00:58 Well dang it! I just tried to remove the screw that secures the port for the float valve, and it stripped on me. I could feel that it was tight so I made sure to use a screw driver that fit deep and snug but nevertheless. Any ideas about how to get this screw out of there or am I just screwed (pun intended). A sense of humor is about as good as I can do at the moment. Will research "screw extraction" whilst I wait for the wise to weigh in here. |
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Title: Re: Engine Problem on my RYCA Cafe Conversion Post by norm92de on 05/06/18 at 14:41:17 Can you get hold of it with Channel lock pliers or vice grips. Or perhaps penetrating oil overnight with a bit of heat, hair dryer? Carbs are very expensive! Good luck. |
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Title: Re: Engine Problem on my RYCA Cafe Conversion Post by Dave on 05/06/18 at 15:05:32 Do you own a set of JIS screwdrivers? The screws on a Japanese bike are not Phillips....they are JIS. (See that little dot stamped into the top of the screw head.....that is the clue it is JIS). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gEwVUZr5xxQ At this point you can try to get a hold of the outside of the screw with vice grips. If that doesn't work you might be able to cut a slot with a hacksaw, and use a flat blade screwdriver. If that doesn't work you can drill the head off. The threaded portion won't be tight in the carb body, and once the head is off you should be able to back the threaded portion out easily. If none of that sounds reasonable....send it to me and I will get it out for you. |
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Title: Re: Engine Problem on my RYCA Cafe Conversion Post by caferacer on 05/06/18 at 18:15:21 Hot dang! So I took a mini hacksaw and very carefully cut a straight slice into the head of the screw and used a flat screw driver (with some penetrating oil) to pop that sucker out. Float valve filter was totally clean. Lesson of the story I guess is get a JIS screwdriver set and use penetrating oil BEFORE stripping the screw. The OEM screw replacement is only $1.99, so I am relieved this mistake was not more costly. HUGE THANKS Dave! |
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Title: Re: Engine Problem on my RYCA Cafe Conversion Post by justin_o_guy2 on 05/06/18 at 19:24:22 very carefully cut a straight slice into the head of the screw Yes you did.. |
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Title: Re: Engine Problem on my RYCA Cafe Conversion Post by norm92de on 05/07/18 at 11:29:52 Caferacer, Talking about the ring around your float valve needle. Both Dave and I switch off our Raptor petcock a certain distance from home to empty the float bowl before parking the bike. This of course, drops the float relieving the pressure on the tip of the valve, which we hope will give it a much longer life. Also helping to prevent the float bowl from "crudding" up with evaporated fuel. We are so smart we can't stand ourselves. ;D |
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Title: Re: Engine Problem on my RYCA Cafe Conversion Post by batman on 05/07/18 at 16:01:05 I don't know for sure but I think less fuel in the float will evaporate faster than a full bowl |
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Title: Re: Engine Problem on my RYCA Cafe Conversion Post by batman on 05/07/18 at 16:06:54 Caferacer , rebuild kits ordered on the web often come with the wrong size jets .(about six sizes to small) |
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Title: Re: Engine Problem on my RYCA Cafe Conversion Post by norm92de on 05/07/18 at 16:49:38 Yes sir, but the fuel is far away from the jets etc. where it can do less harm. |
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Title: Re: Engine Problem on my RYCA Cafe Conversion Post by caferacer on 05/07/18 at 18:09:42 Thanks batman. Even though the kit I ordered comes with a jet or two, I don't plan on changing my jet setup, since the bike was running great till it started puking gas out the carb vent hoses. Raptor petcock came today. Waiting on the new float valve and bowl gasket, then it'll be go time. I also did some reading up on several threads concerning oil choice. I opted for the Rotella T4 in 15w40. Is it a huge no-no not to use the redline zddp addative with this particular oil? Also, is it a problem that I won't be able to warm up the engine (due to the gas smelling oil) before draining and adding new oil? I read in another thread that engine should usually be warmed before oil change. |
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Title: Re: Engine Problem on my RYCA Cafe Conversion Post by Dave on 05/07/18 at 18:29:41 7C7E797A6D7E7C7A6D1F0 wrote:
The current formula of the T4 has 1,200 ppm of ZDDP....that is enough and no additional ZDDP is necessary. How much gas got in the oil? If it is just a little bit I would just drain the sump and leave filter alone. If the oil level raised considerably....I would change the oil and filter. Dumping oil on an engine that has run a week ago is not nearly as potentially destructive as doing it to an engine that has sat for weeks, months, years without being started. |
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Title: Re: Engine Problem on my RYCA Cafe Conversion Post by caferacer on 05/07/18 at 20:20:42 There was no noticable rise in the oil level, judging by the crankcase window. So, I don't think a lot of gas got in the oil. I think I'll follow your recommendation Dave by just draining and refilling without messing with the literally 70-mile old filter. |
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Title: Re: Engine Problem on my RYCA Cafe Conversion Post by batman on 05/07/18 at 21:56:30 Gas evaporates at very low temperature ,and your oil runs at least 270 F ,the little bit that may still be in the filter will be turn into fumes and end up going through the vent tube and into your carb. Adding products like ZDDP , or Sta-bil to your gas tank at every fill up as some have said ,is something I've always avoided. Nobody seems to take into account that you never drain out all the oil or gas from your bike so that adding a standard amount each time actually builds up the level of these over time . ZDDP level in the oil your about to use(1200) will be enough to protect your motor, 1600 is said to be max, 1800 is to much and can damage your motor. Unless you add more ZDDP ,the level, just using T-4 ( or T-6 Syn.) can never be over 1200. |
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Title: Re: Engine Problem on my RYCA Cafe Conversion Post by batman on 05/08/18 at 08:59:15 Norm ,I'm didn't know fuel harmed the jets , mine seem to be quite happy submerged in fuel! what are you saving them from? If you store your bike off season with fuel in the gas tank ,do you fill the tank or half fill it ? Air and the moisture in it is the enemy, not fuel. If your going to lower the fuel level in the carb ,then you really need to drain the bowl completely ,or the idea is half baked . To think that your saving the float valve from wear is a joke ,I haven't had to replace mine in 23 years. |
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Title: Re: Engine Problem on my RYCA Cafe Conversion Post by Dave on 05/08/18 at 09:47:17 I run my engine out (or low enough that the engine stops) on my way home after each ride - the "STOP" sign down the street is my landmark and the bike begins to sputter as I start down my driveway. Is this "anal"? Yes it likely is - but I have not had to clean or rebuild my carb and I don't worry that there is any gunk building up if I don't ride for an extended period. The photo below shows what can happen with the fuel we get in Kentucky. This photo shows Shell Premium Pump gas that was placed in a plastic bottle that had a small vent hole drilled in the cap to simulate the fuel tank vent - I stored this in my pole barn so it could get the daily temperature and humidity swings that my yard equipment experiences. The dark yellow liquid at the bottom is the Phase Separation where the absorbed moisture and ethanol combined and dropped out of suspension in the gasoline. I don't want that crap in the bottom of my float bowl. http://i41.tinypic.com/qsl5du.jpg |
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Title: Re: Engine Problem on my RYCA Cafe Conversion Post by norm92de on 05/08/18 at 12:13:11 As you wish Batman. You have the last word as I knew you would. |
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Title: Re: Engine Problem on my RYCA Cafe Conversion Post by batman on 05/08/18 at 22:22:30 NORM I your case I can't see it making much sense ,In Dave's case he has a few bikes and may not ride the same one as often ,so It might make more sense. Dave said he hasn't had to clean his carb since he been doing this and he has bad gas , I've never had to clean my carb or rebuild it ,I run 87 (E-10) gas ,but it 's the only bike I have on the road . It doesn't sit more than a day or two during the riding season.As for having the last word ,I guess I'm an opinionated old fart, but I base my answer to my knowledge base (and I'm often wrong) but If your running gas with ethanol ,you might consider the fact that ethanol prefers to bind with water rather than gas. When you drop the level of the fuel in the bowl your exposing more surface area of the remaining fuel to outside air that enters through the bowl vents. the humidity in the air will be absorbed degrading you fuel ,and water being heaver that gas settles to the bottom of the bowl, this may form crud that could go into suspension when you refill the bowl and be carried into the jets , that is why I refrain from doing what you do. It may cause more harm than good. |
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Title: Re: Engine Problem on my RYCA Cafe Conversion Post by ohiomoto on 05/09/18 at 09:31:00 My bike sat all winter with a mostly full tank of gas and full float bowl. All of my stuff does. Every spring I fire my stuff up and use it. Savage runs fine. As a matter of fact, I don't even understand all this carb cleaning talk on here. There isn't much to clean on these things if they haven't sucked up a bunch of rust from the tank or sat for several years. Furthermore, most things that might be in there will just get mixed up and burnt as soon as it hits the combustion chamber. |
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Title: Re: Engine Problem on my RYCA Cafe Conversion Post by Dave on 05/09/18 at 12:05:18 4C4B4A4C4E4C574C230 wrote:
There must be a huge difference in fuel quality in different areas of the country. The lady that bought my Savage rescue bike 2 years ago called me last spring, as she could not get the bike started. She doesn't winterize her bike. I checked everything over, it had fuel, it had spark, it had compression. Prior to putting the spark plug back in I put a bit of fuel in the cylinder. When I put the bike back together it fired right up. This year when she called, I explained to her husband how to drain the float bowl and allow some fresh fuel to flow through the carb - after they did that it started right up. It is obvious to me that the fuel left in the carb for extended periods just doesn't work with the fuel we have in Kentucky (at least until July 1 when the reformulated fuel goes away). |
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Title: Re: Engine Problem on my RYCA Cafe Conversion Post by batman on 05/09/18 at 22:44:31 I use Sta-bil in a full tank of gas to winterize, I also use clear packing tap to cover the keyhole in the gas cap to limit air flow in and out during winter temperature swings (some times hitting -25 degrees), and drain the carb bowl . this allows me to pull the plug in spring and clean and gap it if it needs it, and add a bit of oil to the cylinder. Install the battery ,and the bike fires right up , take a short ride to heat up the oil ,then do a change ,and I'm ready for the season. |
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Title: Re: Engine Problem on my RYCA Cafe Conversion Post by caferacer on 05/14/18 at 19:29:37 Success! Oil changed to Rotella T4 in 15w-40 Petcock changed to Yamaha Raptor Carb recleaned Float valve and float bowl gasket replaced Started up after a dozen cranks and after petcock was switched to reserve position. Would die within three minutes or so if I left petcock to on position but ran dependably with petcock to reserve position. Thought I put at least 3/4 of a gallon in the tank so was suprised I had to leave it in reserve position. Will completely fill up tank tomorrow and re-expiriment with the on position. Still some pesky afterfiring when engine breaking, but from what I have read on this forum, some afterfiring is normal for a well-tuned Savage carb during abrupt throttle roll-offs. But how do I know how much afterfiring is too much? The noise itself doen't bother me at all. But I don't want to do damage to my muffler. I also hear a light but consistent "poof" when I turn off the engine. Is the afterfiring and poofing upon turnoff a symptom of running too rich? Should a slight tightning of the mixtire screw help reduce the afterfiring, or is that a mis-diagnosis of the cause? Many thanks for everyone's input on this thread! The bike is certainly in a better state than when I reached out for help. |
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Title: Re: Engine Problem on my RYCA Cafe Conversion Post by batman on 05/14/18 at 22:15:54 A poof at shut down is normal, afterfire (backfire out the muffler) isn't caused by to much fuel, it's caused by being to lean. when you close the throttle and your slowing ,if you hear a light popping or gurgle that's normal sound if your well tuned, if your hearing a louder backfire you need to retune the carb.backfires won't harm your exhaust unless they are awfully strong. |
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