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Message started by Mekh on 04/13/17 at 14:39:50

Title: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by Mekh on 04/13/17 at 14:39:50

After disassembly/reassembly engine is "suddenly" difficult to turn over.

I had solved my issue with the clutch lever etc., and prepared for starting the engine, but after having engaged the starter a bit the engine got sort-of stuck.

Tried a bit of this and that, and ended up with Google, where I found this post:
http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?board=RubberSideDown;action=display;num=1110163653;start=27#27

Can anyone point me to s schematic/drawing that shows what this is about and where what should go?

Title: Re: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by verslagen1 on 04/13/17 at 15:10:45

Let's review the symptoms.
1. it won't spin with the starter.
2. it won't spin with a wrench on the crank.

Now for the probable causes.
1. could be the decomp, but since it doesn't turn with a wrench either, that's not it.
2. hydraulic lock, did you fill the cylinder with oil? shouldn't need more than a teaspoon for lubrication.
3. did you use the penny method for torquing the clutch?

Title: Re: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by youzguyz on 04/13/17 at 15:44:37

6D454B48200 wrote:

If you had the stator cover off, this could happen:
http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1479321667/22#22

Is that what you are asking about?

Title: Re: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by batman on 04/13/17 at 17:09:50

If you pull the sparkplug ,and the motor turns over normally ,it,s not the washer on the wrong starter gear.It may be your decomp not set right,or you need to check basics,spark ,fuel, compression(did you spray a little oil in the cylinder?)If the battery isn't fully charged and the voltage drops below 10v when you engage the starter ,you won't have any spark.

Title: Re: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by Mekh on 04/14/17 at 01:30:43

I can see that my explanation was rather lacking last night :)

Before I re-disassembled and re-re-assembled my clutch I could turn the engine over manually with a breaker bar just fine with the spark plug out. The decompression lever should be properly adjusted as per the manual.

Last night I put my clutch back together using sort-of the "penny method" and all was fine, for a short while.
I did not however try to turn the engine over after re-assembling the clutch as I saw no need to at the time. In glorious hindsight I probably should have.

So, I assembled everything needed to try and get the engine started including putting motor oil on the engine, (but not in the cylinder as I oiled that well during assembly).

When I got to the point where I had checked that the decompression lever did what it should, I let the starter try and get the engine running but it got sort-of seized after very little rotation.
I then took out the spark-plug and tried the same, with the same result.
Then I tried rotating the engine manully, and I can rotate it but it takes too much force to do it and it feels like there is a massive friction in the engine (tar instead of motor oil might result in something feeling like this), so I knew something was wrong.
I checked various things, ending up on google and found the thread about some washer on the torque limiter gear that can be misplaced, but could not from that thread understand what washer and where.

A link to a thread with a photo showing it made it clear what I should check, and I intend to check that later today... after having finished some chores regarding gutters filled with leaves, replacing some rubber tiles with concrete ditto aaand some more even less interesting stuff.
Photo from when I disassembled that side of the engine. I can't spot a washer there. Will be interesting to see where it is, if there is one at all...
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0gidj3vfwvutfyy/2016-12-14%2020.40.01.jpg?dl=0

I appreciate all the help so far :)
If you spot anything in my description above that leads to something I should check also, please do let me know,

Title: Re: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by youzguyz on 04/14/17 at 04:48:18

Always look at the parts drawings from one of the OEM sites as well:

http://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d32fb4f8700232d0b3d91b/starter-clutch

This shows that there should be washers on both sides of the limiter assembly (2).
The bad thing about this drawing is that it makes you think the limiter engages the starter gear (due to the relative position of the limiter and idle gears). The photo shows that the limiter engages the flywheel, which is correct.

Title: Re: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by Mekh on 04/14/17 at 05:54:28

Hi

There are no washer(s) on my model, which is a 1993-1994.

So it seems I have assembled it correct, but it also means that I have no idea why it's not turning easily. Guess I will have to take the clutch cover back off and check everything. :(

Found this, which looks like mine (1988):
http://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d32ebdf8700232d0b3d6d6/starter-clutch

Photos from my engine:
http://https://www.dropbox.com/s/ovgksvqyq544vey/2017-04-14%2014.26.30_small.jpg?raw=1

http://https://www.dropbox.com/s/p3dlnnzhly5pjns/2017-04-14%2014.26.31_small.jpg?raw=1

PS.
Figured out why I could not link directly to photos in my Dropbox, so in case others here uses Dropbox:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/p3dlnnzhly5pjns/2017-04-14%2014.26.31_small.jpg?dl=0

Manually change "dl=0" at the end of the link to either "dl=1" or "raw=1", and it works :)

Title: Re: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by youzguyz on 04/14/17 at 06:17:48

Before opening the clutch side again, I would pull off the idler gear that meshes with the flywheel and see if the engine turns more easily manually with the breaker bar/wrench.
Might as well eliminate that side of the engine first.

And, I would leave it off until the issue is resolved!

Title: Re: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by Mekh on 04/14/17 at 06:20:52

Yes, I have tried taking off those small gears and turning the engine over, but no difference.

I intend to let the left cover off until I have figured out what is going on.

Will report back when I have had the right side back off gain.

Title: Re: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by Mekh on 04/14/17 at 07:00:18

The cam chain is tight... super-tight... WAY too tight, even without the tensioner installed. Video: https://www.dropbox.com/s/3mkxwy31dkwxhr2/2017-04-14%2013.46.19.mp4?dl=0

I understand nothing right now... :o

After engine assembly the engine has been turned over several times manually, both to test everything rotated as it should, but also when I adjusted the valves, decompression valve and so on and everything worked fine at all times.

"Only" thing I have done since then is fixing the clutch (other thread: http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1491743506).

I am completely stomped here... and don't feel like messing with anything until I have some idea what may be going on... In other words: Help!

Title: Re: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 04/14/17 at 07:09:44

I can't watch the video. A picture of your chain with and without you squeezing it would help.

Title: Re: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by Dave on 04/14/17 at 07:14:36

I can watch the video......and that just isn't right.

There should be far more slack than what the video shows.

Title: Re: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by Mekh on 04/14/17 at 07:21:02

Whereas there should normally be slack on the left side of the chain where the tensioner presses on the chain there is slack on the right side of the chain.

So... what can cause this and why is it happening now, when it has rotated just fine so far? I really don't like where this is going :(

Not touching the chain:
http://https://www.dropbox.com/s/zz6gvij9iordb5p/2017-04-14%2016.13.02_small.jpg?dl=1

Pressing left side of chain:
http://https://www.dropbox.com/s/x1hpk8e2gorogy4/2017-04-14%2016.13.07_small.jpg?dl=1

Pressing right side of chain:
http://https://www.dropbox.com/s/dvk9wasam0z9apw/2017-04-14%2016.13.16_small.jpg?dl=1

Title: Re: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by youzguyz on 04/14/17 at 07:24:07

I've been looking through your pictures trying to see when it went weird.

You look ok here.
2017-04-13 16.41.13.jpg

And maybe all the way to here:
2017-04-13 17.35.53.jpg

Any chance that something fell down between the chain and the bottom gear?
What were you using between the drive gear and the clutch when you tightened stuff up?

Never mind.. Just saw the pictures of the slack on the right side

Title: Re: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by Mekh on 04/14/17 at 07:27:06

52445E514C5E52512B0 wrote:
...snip...
Any chance that something fell down between the chain and the bottom gear?
What were you using between the drive gear and the clutch when you tightened stuff up?

Will go check for parts that should not be there, but for locking the gears I used a rather large piece of bright red plastic, so no chance that could have been lost in there. I also recall being annoyed when trying to remove it again after tightening.

Title: Re: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by verslagen1 on 04/14/17 at 07:28:44

As tight as it is, I'd say you don't have the teeth engaged with the chain... the chain is riding on top of the teeth.

Or you got the wrong chain.

You need to take the top off and check.

Title: Re: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by Mekh on 04/14/17 at 07:35:52

Is there any harm done trying to rotate the engine "backwards", meaning clock-wise on the flywheel, rather than counter-clockwise?

Title: Re: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by Mekh on 04/14/17 at 07:39:09

312235342B2620222976470 wrote:
As tight as it is, I'd say you don't have the teeth engaged with the chain... the chain is riding on top of the teeth.

Or you got the wrong chain.

You need to take the top off and check.

I'm using the same chain that has been there the whole time and what really confuses me is how this can happen at this late stage. Fiddling with the clutch and all that, should have no impact on the chain as far as I can tell.

I probably have to take the top off, but I really, really would like to understand how this could happen.

I suppose I need to have the engine out of the frame again, in order to take the top off?

Title: Re: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by youzguyz on 04/14/17 at 07:40:54

If you put a wrench on the crank shaft (right side) and rotate it slightly clockwise, it should pull the slack out of the right side of the chain and move it to the left.
I don't know what that would prove though.

Either something is binding at the crank shaft, or at the cam shaft.
(Stating the obvious)

Title: Re: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by verslagen1 on 04/14/17 at 07:41:45

many do it in the frame, it is tricky.
the center bolt will give you the most trouble.
take it off, clean it up and practice a couple of times.
then add the rtv give it a go.

Title: Re: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by verslagen1 on 04/14/17 at 07:44:57

4E58424D50424E4D370 wrote:

There is no slack, period.
turning it now may get the teeth to engage with the chain, but I'd be uncertain if it was timed right.

Title: Re: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by batman on 04/14/17 at 07:45:01

I wouldn't pull the motor! you just need to take the top off so you can look at the gear and chain on the cam.Either the chain is not properly seated on the cam shaft gear or the drive gear on the crank shaft, It's the only thing that would explain the chain being that tight.Instead of plastic to lock the gears when working on the clutch it may have been better to use aluminum.At this point I don't think rotating the motor backward will help,but if it did allow the chain to mesh with the gears the timing might still be off.

Title: Re: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by youzguyz on 04/14/17 at 07:46:20

Just a thought, and hopefully not an evil one.
Is there ANY chance you put the cam shaft in with the piston at BOTTOM dead center, instead of TOP dead center?
Can't be.. would have shown up when you were adjusting the valves.

As Versys says, and as much as I wouldn't wish it on anybody, I think you better open up the top and take a look at that chain all around.

Title: Re: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by verslagen1 on 04/14/17 at 07:46:40

5E76787B130 wrote:

Is there any harm done trying to rotate the engine "backwards", meaning clock-wise on the flywheel, rather than counter-clockwise?

You can, but take the starter out.
The one way starter clutch will engage and you can bust out the mounting or crack the case.

Title: Re: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by verslagen1 on 04/14/17 at 07:59:41

Didn't see these before, something's odd, you have slack on the right side, none of the left.

Pressing left side of chain:
http://https://www.dropbox.com/s/x1hpk8e2gorogy4/2017-04-14%2016.13.07_small.jpg?dl=1

Pressing right side of chain:
http://https://www.dropbox.com/s/dvk9wasam0z9apw/2017-04-14%2016.13.16_small.jpg?dl=1

I'd still take off the top, you need to inspect.

Title: Re: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by youzguyz on 04/14/17 at 08:07:58

Versy,

Do you think it could be a good idea to take off the primary drive gear first to see how the chain is riding at the bottom (I don't know if you can see it with the gear on).

Title: Re: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by Mekh on 04/14/17 at 08:16:06

I went in for the day, to grab a cold beer and read a good book. Needed a break.

No matter what, I now need the top off to check timing etc., so will start on that day after tomorrow as we will have guests all day tomorrow.

I cannot thank you all enough for the responses and help. I will let you know what I run into going back in.

Title: Re: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by Dave on 04/14/17 at 08:20:13

Depending on where the cam is......it can explain why there is slack on the right side and none on the left. If the cam is on the backside of a lobe and a valve is closing - the valve springs can be trying to rotate the camshaft forward and it is pulling on the cam chain.

Title: Re: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by verslagen1 on 04/14/17 at 08:28:51

That's true dave.
If it was turning before the clutch work, most likely it is something to do with the clutch work.
Common sense says undo the last thing you did and check.

Title: Re: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 04/14/17 at 08:35:18

2D3E2928373A3C3E356A5B0 wrote:

That's true dave.
If it was turning before the clutch work, most likely it is something to do with the clutch work.

Read/Heed

Common sense says undo the last thing you did and check.

And pay attention to the oil pump drive gear. It's easier to get backwards than the oil filter.

Title: Re: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by Mekh on 04/14/17 at 08:59:50

170413120D0006040F50610 wrote:
That's true dave.
If it was turning before the clutch work, most likely it is something to do with the clutch work.
Common sense says undo the last thing you did and check.

But... I dit not have the chain tensioner off while taking off the clutch, so the chain should have been nice and tight the whole time. Still don't understand how this happened.

Title: Re: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 04/14/17 at 09:16:45

Which way did you spin the motor?
The crankshaft and wheels all rotate the same way.

Title: Re: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by Mekh on 04/14/17 at 10:06:05

The flywheel was rotated counter-clockwise, as the wheels when driving forward.

Title: Re: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 04/14/17 at 10:16:09

Then the only way I can envision slack in the chain on the front side is as mentioned above, cam lobe in the
Let's Close the valve
zone. The valve spring drove the cam .
The chain isn't telling me anything.

What did you Feel as it didn't wanna rotate?
Grinding?
What did you hear?
What did you take off that is still on?
Starter?

Title: Re: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by batman on 04/16/17 at 18:45:20

I'm thinking it goes back to his statement that he "used a large piece of plastic"to lock the gears when torqueing the clutch, and had a real bad time getting out ,It sounds to me like the plastic didn't hold the gears but may have got crushed and slipped between the gears,what this movement could have done to the cam chain and gears isn't clear,in my mind but I think it bares looking into.Is it possible the primary drive gear slid across the crushed plastic one tooth and through the cam timing off?

Title: Re: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by Mekh on 04/17/17 at 03:51:53

I have now removed all relevant bolts from the valve cover, and would like a hint on how to slide out the cover. The engine is in the frame.

Which side and/or forward do you usually slide/tilt it out towards?
EDIT: NVM, I got it out easy when I took it out left side.

76756079757A202C140 wrote:
I'm thinking it goes back to his statement that he "used a large piece of plastic"to lock the gears when torqueing the clutch, and had a real bad time getting out ,It sounds to me like the plastic didn't hold the gears but may have got crushed and slipped between the gears,what this movement could have done to the cam chain and gears isn't clear,in my mind but I think it bares looking into.Is it possible the primary drive gear slid across the crushed plastic one tooth and through the cam timing off?

I am 100% positive that the plastic piece held the gears.
It is a method I usually use and have originally learned from my father who usually employs a similar method. You just have to make sure the material is strong enough to not be squeezed out from between the teeth when you apply force on it, which I can see was not the case.

One of the benefits of using a softer material like plastic as opposed to (soft) metal is that it is less prone to be dropped between the time you put it in place and till you apply some real force on it, as you can "set it" in place by applying a little temporary force/torque on it.

Also... I did not have "a real hard time" getting it out, but I did have to wriggle and pry it a bit of course :)

The setup I used at the time (This one is staged):
http://https://www.dropbox.com/s/n45eqrxoryy2ts8/2017-04-14%2016.42.55_small.jpg?dl=1

Title: Re: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by Mekh on 04/17/17 at 05:53:44

Back to the last step you did and check that...

I had a stupid brain fart when I re-assembled the clutch it seems. The small gear that sits on the backside of the clutch basket was oriented wrong... Gears towards the case, rather than towards the clutch basket. Nothing seems to broken/damaged because of this, so I will now re-assemble it all.

However, I'm unsure whether the timing is right. Can I slide the chain over the bottom or top cam chain gear without disassembling anything further?

Title: Re: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by Dave on 04/17/17 at 06:28:55

0C242A29410 wrote:

However, I'm unsure whether the timing is right. Can I slide the chain over the bottom or top cam chain gear without disassembling anything further?

I don't believe so. There is a part of the case that prevents this on the bottom - and I am not sure how you would slide the chain over a tooth on top. When I need to move a tooth - I take the cam out and let the upper sprocket drop down a bit.....then move the chain on the sprocket.

Title: Re: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by youzguyz on 04/17/17 at 06:31:04

49616F6C040 wrote:

If you have the head cover off, you can see the end of the cam. If you can see that, you can tell if the timing is OK.
Your picture 2016-11-05 19.10.01.jpg shows what it should look like at TDC.
If it is not right, you will probably need to take the cam gear, cam, chain apart and fiddle. I don't think it can be done from the bottom.

The BIG question is: Does it still feel like it is binding now that you flipped the oil pump drive gear over?

Title: Re: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by youzguyz on 04/17/17 at 06:32:36

P.S. Did you make SURE that the oil drive gear pin was in place????
Item #19 here: http://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d32ea1f8700232d0b3d67b/clutch

Title: Re: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by Mekh on 04/17/17 at 06:44:48

Oil drive gear pin: If it's the pin that holds the small gear on the clutch basket in place, then YES, I have triple-checked that. :)

Timing was off, and I ended up loosening the camshaft gear wheel in order to get the timing right again.

So far everything "feels right" after having rotated stuff with a preliminary assembly.

Title: Re: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by Mekh on 04/17/17 at 11:28:03

The bike is currently cooling off a bit after it's initial 10 minute break-in.

It started after no more than 2-3 turns of the engine and it sounds daasm good so far :)

Using original exhaust in order to be able to best possible hear if anything is not sounding right. but so far it's the cleanest sound I have ever heard from this engine. :D

Now I will change the oil, and oil filter and prepare for the 30 minute break-in. I have 2 fans blowing on the cylinder, which I suppose should suffice. Anyone have any feedback on this?

Title: Re: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by Dave on 04/17/17 at 11:51:24

Yep. Don't brake the engine in without riding it. The piston/cylinder needs the pressure of the acceleration and deceleration to get the rings seated properly.

Title: Re: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by youzguyz on 04/17/17 at 12:00:13

58707E7D150 wrote:

SOOOOO happy that you got it going and it sounds good.

Not the way I did my break in after doing valves and rings, but everyone has their own method.
I did 600 miles on Rotella T3 with a little extra ZDDP. Never going WOT, never leaving the RPMs the same for an exended period of time.
Doing accels and decels almost all the time.
Then changed the oil to Rotella T6 and continued the gentle treatment for another 1000 miles.

Title: Re: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by Mekh on 04/17/17 at 12:13:29

This is the break-in method I have read smaller variations of for new cam shaft and rocker arms. Whether it's for motorcycles or cars this seems to be the most commonly referred method.
the main purpose of this break-in is to make the needed surface hardening of the cam-shaft and rocker arm surfaces, while ensuring oil pressure at all times. In case of this bike, by keeping an eye on the oil glass. while breaking it in, I keep the rpm's going up and down between 2000-3000 rpm's by ear.

Besides that we have a VERY wet spring here in Denmark (as usual), and would definitely prefer to be able make the break-in here inside, as I try to keep the bike out of the rain as much as possible.

I am re-using the piston rings, so they should not really need break-in.

Title: Re: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by Gary_in_NJ on 04/17/17 at 15:39:45

WOT, at low rpms is good for break in. It creates high cylinder pressure without excessive heat.

Title: Re: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by batman on 04/17/17 at 19:55:29

Gary ,I'm a bit confused, how do you get low RPMs with a wide open throttle?

Title: Re: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by Kris01 on 04/17/17 at 20:03:58

I think he means to open the throttle fully from idle instead of jerking it open from halfway or so while cruising at 3500 rpms. Starting from a higher rpm will start with more heat.

Title: Re: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by Mekh on 04/18/17 at 01:52:26

I suppose WOT (Wide Open Throttle?) is most relevant for cylinder/piston/ring break-in, but I can't see how that will influence what happens between cam shaft and rocker arms.

My thinking about what influences pressure between the cam shaft and rocker arms is limited to lubrication, valve spring force and RPM's, where higher RPM's will result in higher accelerations of the rocker arms and therefore also higher forces ultimately resulting in higher pressure between the cam shaft and rocker arms.
However, higher RPM's also result in more oil pressure, hence the need to make sure there are enough RPM's to generate sufficient oil pressure to keep those surfaces well lubricated.

I don't think the cam shaft and rocker arms can "feel" any difference between being rotated by forces from gasoline being burned or from being dragged by the rear wheel, while for example the piston rings will see a significant difference between the two.

Does this make sense, or...?

Title: Re: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by Dave on 04/18/17 at 02:54:24

The comments about opening/closing the throttle, and at what speeds to ride are all related to the cylinder/piston ring break in. Since you didn't change the piston rings.....those issues don't change.

The camshaft break in is a lot less fussy - you aren't supposed to idle the engine for the first 10 minutes of operation. They want a lot of oil on the cam, they want the cam to be moving fast so they oil doesn't have time to squeeze from between the cam lobe/rocker, and you should have been provided a cam assembly lube that has a lot of "stuff" in it to keep the cam from scuffing for the first few minutes. (Probably a moly and ZDDP paste).

Don't overdo the engine running without being ridden.......the engine is air cooled and designed to be ridden - not stationary.

Title: Re: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by Gary_in_NJ on 04/18/17 at 05:48:07

3132273E323D676B530 wrote:
Gary ,I'm a bit confused, how do you get low RPMs with a wide open throttle?

Crack the throttle open (WOT) at 2,000 rpm and allow the engine to increase rpm to 4,000. You have high cylinder pressure and low (not redline) rpm. Makes for happy valve guides, seats and piston rings.

Cams don't necessarily need a break in. What will wear a cam in hour 1 will do the same in hour 1,000. Cams need oil, so set your idle rpm to no less then 1,300 rpm. Excessive idling is not good.

Title: Re: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by Mekh on 04/18/17 at 14:15:56

Just a status from here... Had a 1 hour drive today, while we had some less than wonderful late year snow... >:(
Luckily it was not much, so not a big issue driving.

I haven't given it some throttle yet, as I want to drive it easy for some hundred kilometers just in case, but so far it feels and sounds VERY nice.

I think I could hear some slight ticking from the valves towards the end of the drive. I suppose this is to be expected, considering new rocker-arms with their included adjustment screws?

Originally the plan was to re-build the bike a bit, but then I found out the cam shaft and rocker arms were bad, so I ended up "only" giving the engine a major overhaul.

Below is a few photos from this evening:
http://https://www.dropbox.com/s/zlof9bn2l9ny8td/2017-04-18%2022.29.26_small.jpg?dl=1

http://https://www.dropbox.com/s/utdrzf0nvokdrty/2017-04-18%2022.39.25_small.jpg?dl=1

http://https://www.dropbox.com/s/f0f9vwjbhmztxhj/2017-04-18%2022.39.11_small.jpg?dl=1

http://https://www.dropbox.com/s/5n85x1ijegzk7xc/2017-04-18%2022.38.44_small.jpg?dl=1

Very, very, very happy about it at this point... Now looking forward to some better weather and some good long cruises. :D

Title: Re: Engine not turning (Hard to turn manually)
Post by Mekh on 05/20/17 at 23:53:12

Just a quick little follow up here... :)

I have now put about 2-3000km on the clock since I fixed this issue and it has been driving just fine (when warm).

Yesterday however, I think it sounded like it had a small leak from the head gasket, which is probably because I have not re-tightened the header bolts as they should have been.

This goes together with a distinct (not problematic) ticking from the valves, so today I will re-tighten the header bolts and re-adjust the valves afterwards.

When I have checked that it runs fine, I will re-jet it a bit richer, and see what that does for it... (Having received a jet set from Lancer :))

I might even put on my muffled (DIY) Raask exhaust, just to see what it does for its looks and sound.

Very happy with how it runs so far, and I just had the bike pass 65.000km (+40.000 miles) the other day, but hoping my renovation has put quite a few more kilometers in it :)