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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Correct OEM Spark Plug /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1490109935 Message started by Kenny G on 03/21/17 at 08:25:35 |
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Title: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by Kenny G on 03/21/17 at 08:25:35 :-/I am trying to place an order with Ron Ayers and I want to add a spare spark plug and they list 3 different plugs for the 2103 S40. Since this is the first one listed is anyone using it: NGK, DPR8EA-9 I am having no issues with the factory spark plug so I don't think I want to change or upgrade. Kenny G |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by Gary_in_NJ on 03/21/17 at 09:01:39 According to NGK's site it's DPR8EA-9, stock #4929 with a gap of 0.035 |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by Ruttly on 03/21/17 at 09:04:36 NGK or Nippondenso , go big get platinum just make sure they are direct cross reference so as not to change the heat range ! |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by Kenny G on 03/21/17 at 09:12:51 Thanks Guys, I am going to stay with the DPR8EA-9. When I am not having trouble, I am not wild about switching to a better spark plug, or any other better part. Kenny G |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by Gary_in_NJ on 03/21/17 at 09:40:59 A platinum plug will not make your bike run any better, but it will cost you more. It may last longer, but our ignition isn't hot enough to take advantage of the features of a platinum plug. It's gonna foul the same way at the same time as the regular NGK. |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by Kris01 on 03/21/17 at 17:18:27 Kenny, copper is way more conductive than platinum. If you can get copper over platinum, go for it. The only drawback is the electrodes don't last as long with copper. The platinum is much harder. Copper plugs are also a lot cheaper. Just FYI. Both will run fine for you. |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by Kenny G on 03/21/17 at 17:27:10 Kris, I have generally changed spark plugs at 10,000 miles on most of the motorcycles that I ever owned. I cannot recall having ever worn out spark plug. Whenever I have changed plugs the old ones looked like they have plenty of life left in them. Kenny G :-/ I rest my case. |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by batman on 03/21/17 at 18:46:49 If you look at both plugs side by side you'll notice the center electrode to be much smaller in diameter on the platinum making up for the difference in conductivity .The heat range should be the same ,the standard plug should last 25,000 miles ,the platinum about double.I pull my platinum plug every year to check for fouling, and color,to make sure of conditions such as worn valves,guides,or rings.I then check the plug gap and reinsert the 6 year old plug.If your bike is running good the last think to carry on a trip is a sparkplug ,their to reliable .If you're not planning to put 25,000 miles on your bike this season a standard plug is fine. |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by hotrod on 03/21/17 at 20:48:30 Standard Autolite works for me. Always have. |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by Kris01 on 03/22/17 at 18:48:57 Here's something I always do when changing plugs: http://www.enginelabs.com/news/getting-the-most-out-of-your-ignition-spark-plug-indexing-101/ The idea is to move the ground strap away from the intake valve so it doesn't block the A/F mixture. It meets the spark quicker this way. You may need to buy a few plugs though. There's no rhyme or reason as to how the threads are started compared to where the ground strap is. You can always take back your unused plugs. It's a good reason for a ride! ;) |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by batman on 03/22/17 at 19:43:29 Kris ,this may added horsepower to the head shown(a two valve with the plug to one side) I have my doubts that it's worth the hassle with our 4 valve tscc (twin swirl combustion chamber)head ,with the plug right in the center,and the tip close to the piston crown. |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by eau de sauvage on 03/23/17 at 02:26:03 I'm wondering why they don't make silver point plugs, Silver has the highest electrical/heat conductance of any metal. Try putting an ice cube on a 1kg bar of silver, the ice melts instantly. |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by Dave on 03/23/17 at 05:20:49 22302427303634510 wrote:
Silver is a very soft metal, I imagine it would erode away very quickly in the combustion chamber. Platinum is one of the least reactive metals. It has remarkable resistance to corrosion, even at high temperatures. |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by justin_o_guy2 on 03/23/17 at 08:19:37 It's not hard to electroplate with silver or gold. Low voltages will drag silver off a silver probe in water. I'd expect the voltages in an ignition system to blow a silver spark plug Up.. |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by Kris01 on 03/23/17 at 17:42:36 3D3E2B323E316B675F0 wrote:
I haven't done it on the S40 yet. My plug is still good and doesn't need to be replaced. If I think of it when the original plug dies, I may give it a shot whether it's beneficial or not. It won't take but an extra 2 minutes to do. BTW, you're not believing Suzi's Twin Swirl crap, are you? ;D |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by piedmontbuckeye on 03/24/17 at 11:32:57 I am wondering if this sort of thing is really necessary, or will be even noticeable on our machines for our kind of riding? If I owned a race car, and wanted to get the last once of power . . . . then maybe! |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by Kris01 on 03/24/17 at 17:37:22 Worth it? Absolutely! Can you feel it? Probably not. If we had about 7 more cylinders then it might gain 2 or 3 hp. It MIGHT be more responsive but not any faster. It doesn't cost anything more when changing your plug and you'll only spend an extra 2 minutes doing it, so why not? To each their own. I was just providing info for anyone who wants to experiment. ;) |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by batman on 03/24/17 at 19:09:41 Platinum has very high heat resistance that's why they last longer ,temperature of the fuel /air mix in motors can reach 5000 degrees F. |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by batman on 03/24/17 at 19:23:54 Kris which intake valve are you going to point the gap at?I believe either would be wrong,for our motor.but I think I'll let you guess why. |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by Kris01 on 03/25/17 at 08:42:47 You'll have to clue me in on that one Batman. We could probably just aim between the two? :-? |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by batman on 03/25/17 at 15:09:39 Kris, if were to do it I would point the gap to the left side of the motor at 90 degrees to the valves,for two reasons,one; the plug is at an angle and sets in an uneven pocket in the head .keeping the neg. electrode in the deepest side ,keeps it from blocking the fuel/air mix across the chamber. second,this also exposes the spark to both sides of the chamber evenly,and the two major squish zones are between both sets of valves heating and pushing the fuel mix toward the plug as the piston reaches TDC. |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by Gary_in_NJ on 03/25/17 at 16:14:38 Plug indexing is just not needed in a cylinder head design like the high-swish design used in the Suzuki engine. |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by Kris01 on 03/26/17 at 20:17:14 Anybody got a pic of our combustion chamber? |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by Kris01 on 03/26/17 at 20:22:50 Nevermind! Found one! http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1360537452/13 http://suzukisavage.com/yabb2.2/Attachments/Suzuki_Head_1.jpg |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by batman on 03/26/17 at 23:18:04 Kris ,it's funny the plug in the pic is nearly in the position I described earlier,about another 1/8 of a turn would have been perfect.You can see that the threaded base of the plug protrudes slightly at the top,but you can see about 2 1/2 threads showing just to the right of the neg. electrod.You can also see the squish zones at 3and9 o clock. |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by Kris01 on 03/27/17 at 19:36:11 Wouldn't pointing the plug between the 2 intake valves be beneficial? I mean, at least the ground strap wouldn't be blocking the A/F mixture and spark from meeting. |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by Gary_in_NJ on 03/28/17 at 05:41:37 The spark plug doesn't ignite the mixture as it enters the combustion chamber. Remember, INTAKE happens on a downward motion of the piston. Before the piston reaches BDC the valves are closed. As the piston rises and compression of the mixture commences, there is tremendous swirl within the combustion chamber. By the time ignition occurs the mixture is distributed evenly in the chamber. Sparkplug indexing is total BS! |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by hotrod on 03/28/17 at 13:09:37 Gary, I believe you're correct. |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by Kris01 on 03/28/17 at 17:28:21 WOW! I've been drinking the Kool-Aid all these years! You're correct! The plug doesn't do anything while the intake valve is open. I've never actually considered what happens during the actual combustion process. The ground strap wouldn't block anything! I guess the idea is to not allow the ground strap to block the flame front. By turning the ground to a favorable position MIGHT be beneficial in some combustion chamber designs, but not ours. |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by Kris01 on 03/28/17 at 17:33:01 http://www.privatefleet.com.au/wp-content/themes/privatefleet/images/upload/glossary/combustion-chamber.jpg Maybe a design like this would benefit from not having the strap block the flame front. It's possible the flame front would travel a bit quicker. |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by Gary_in_NJ on 03/28/17 at 18:14:07 I believe the concept comes from the days of side valve engines. We can kill the folklore right here, right now. |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by Ruttly on 03/28/17 at 19:07:36 Some performance builders still use plug shims to correct to plug position for proper alignment in combustion chamber for faster more complete burn. As Armen would say " Gonna get that last .6 of a horsepower " I believe the term is " Spark Plug Indexing " |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by justin_o_guy2 on 03/28/17 at 19:14:15 I'd need to see a dyno comparison. |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by Kris01 on 03/29/17 at 18:43:31 3A30343E353C38316F696D5D0 wrote:
Maybe plug indexing and one of these... https://www.google.com/search?q=intake+tornado&num=50&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwio0PKcjP3SAhVjzFQKHRyvCwIQ_AUICSgC&biw=1600&bih=768 ...would net another 15 hp? :D |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by Ruttly on 03/29/17 at 19:22:42 I don't think that fan thing would do anything but slow incoming air. But if your running a mikuni vm36 a UFO & a Quad Flow Wing , claims 1 H/P per 100cc ! So if you have the 695cc big bore that should net you another 7 H/P and some awsome acceleration ! Sorry I don't have dyno reports to back it up , but you can come take it for a ride and see for your self , but it has several other engine mods as well ! Add a Intelajet too for a additional mid range punch ! thunderproducts.com |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by hotrod on 03/29/17 at 21:48:34 Plugs......Nothing to think about. Just gap them, and put them in . |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by Kris01 on 03/30/17 at 16:50:25 That sounds like a winner to me! Ruttly: Yeah, it's a gimmick! |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by Ruttly on 03/30/17 at 18:24:58 It does have a draw back , it runs so good it's real hard not to open it up every chance you get , in turn fuel mileage takes a hit , but I guess it would be ok if I OBEYED the speed limit , but it's waay too much fun to ride fast !! |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by Dave on 03/31/17 at 04:25:46 This is what you really need......a small 12v fan as a supercharger! The darn thing is supposed to increase engine power......looks like a big blockage in the intake pipe to me. Why would anybody be fooled into thinking a tiny electric fan can provide boost? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Electric-Supercharger-Turbos-intake-Fan-Boost-12V-16-5A-with-ESC40A-Airplane-/142314783770?hash=item21229f441a:g:9zIAAOSwhQhYyhjs&vxp=mtr |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by Gary_in_NJ on 03/31/17 at 06:08:50 I have a Subaru BRZ that has a REAL electric super charger. It operates on a dedicated 24V system (that is charged from the car alternator) and it makes about 5 pounds of boost. It only activates when the throttle is at 75% or greater, otherwise in spins just enough to keep it from being a restriction. It's good for about 60 second bursts (although 20 to 30 seconds is a long time under full throttle) and recharges/recovers in just a few seconds (depending on length of boost). Horsepower in the BRZ goes from (on a dyno) 170 to 210 and torque goes from 135 to 200 lb-ft. What is impressive is the area under the curve. It completely changed the character of the engine. And it bolted on in about an hour of time. I was one the beta testers of the system for Phantom Super Chargers http://www.phantomsuperchargers.com/ The technology is real and is now being adapted by OEM's such as Audi and Volvo. Their systems are 48V. |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by batman on 03/31/17 at 19:05:05 Tune your intake with a length of pvc and get the same boost with no time limit.and no moving parts. |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by Gary_in_NJ on 04/01/17 at 17:18:18 7073667F737C262A120 wrote:
How does a PVC intake runner make boost? There is zero science to support this claim. All you can do is minimize loss. |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by Kris01 on 04/01/17 at 17:21:08 It won't make ANY boost but it will move your torque curve a little lower and make the engine more responsive. |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by Gary_in_NJ on 04/01/17 at 18:37:18 5E677C662524150 wrote:
The goal is to FLATTEN a the torque curve and to move it up. Regarding Batmans post, he said that a PVC intake would somehow make 5 pounds of boost (the same as my supercharger spinning at 10,000 rpm with 5000w of power.). A tuned intake can actually pressurize the intake? How is that possible? |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by verslagen1 on 04/01/17 at 18:41:24 414B4F454E47434A141216260 wrote:
How does a PVC intake runner make boost? There is zero science to support this claim. All you can do is minimize loss.[/quote] You have to know the science to make what batman says make sense. It's a little bit like the exhaust... a long straight pipe with a burst of pressure traveling down it. Once it gets going it develops momentum and in the case of the intake, only thing to stop is the piston. Then the intake valve shuts and bounces the flow back the way it came. Until the intake opens again, the flow snaps back to heads down the pipe again in one hell of a rush. The trick is to make the intake long enough so the pressure wave doesn't get out before it turns around. At high rpm, a velocity stack is all you need. mid-range on our thumper, you may need one a foot long. the math is around here somewhere. |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by Ruttly on 04/01/17 at 19:35:16 Think the title was "Tuning your intake " and has links to the math. |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by Gary_in_NJ on 04/02/17 at 05:58:43 You're all smoking something. You can not make boost with a tuned intake runner. The best you can do is minimize flow losses. If you improve flow loss from 75% to 90%, you haven't made 15% of boost, you've improved flow. |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by Dave on 04/02/17 at 07:25:37 I'm with Gary on this one......you may improve flow, but you will never make a "boost" without a pump (turbo or supercharger). The intake valve is only open for 1/4th of the 4 cycle process, and that means that 3/4th of the time the incoming air only has momentum to keep it moving....and there is a pulse created in the intake runner as the intake valve opens and closes. Tuned intake runners can maximize the benefit of the momentum in the air mass and improve efficiency - but it cannot make boost. |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by verslagen1 on 04/02/17 at 07:46:46 6B4C4D4D5540390 wrote:
yeah... except you can't spell worth a ... http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1464235388/0 |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by batman on 04/02/17 at 09:34:09 Perhaps BOOST was an improper term to use, but you can increase VE (volumetric efficiency),ideally by up to 30% by tuning the length of your intake.The post started by me ,with many more members that knew their stuff ,giving the correct info,at the place Vercy posted above. |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by Ruttly on 04/02/17 at 11:15:38 Did the math , did extensive R & D on this one, months of work with tubes,elbows, different filters. Have a huge box of hoses ,tubes filters,clamps. Found out where you have a gain you have a loss ,was able to to move my mid range around somewhat but at the same time I would lose some power of the line(where I like power) or was unable to get to that last 7 or 8 mph on top cause I had a killer midrange tuned too low in the rpm range. At one point I had it close but tubes duct taped to bike and air filter way too the rear wasn't going to stay,think I had gone to a additional bounce the pressure wave. It was fun and educational but the work did not equal the gain. A good cam or vm36 with UFO , Quad flow wing , Intelajet will get you a better midrange punch. Not worth the time and effort for minimal gains ! |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by batman on 04/02/17 at 17:13:23 Verslagen ,seems to have had a bit of success doing it on his "beast" and I'm going to experiment with it myself.I think if you just try to use a length to capture the 4% and 7% to raise VE, in the rpm range you cruise and pass in ,it may prove to be worth it. |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by Ruttly on 04/02/17 at 19:04:57 At the risk of getting Versy upset and only he can say what's true. He came up with a cool dual filter intake , but I not so sure it had ram induction in mind when it was made and I'm pretty sure he's got a 40 or 42 mm Harley carb on it that needs the extra air intake flow. So do tell Versy, inquiring minds want to know ! I think my next build ,if it winds up being a savage engine, I won't hold back I will pull out all the stops. And then .................................... |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by verslagen1 on 04/02/17 at 19:20:02 In truth, I did not whip out my calculator and design my intake, it just looks right. My carb was acquired carb, maybe off of a harley, you might be able to find another. But I hear good things about a lector. |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by Ruttly on 04/02/17 at 19:50:58 Yes sometimes we acquire parts and sometimes a miracle happens , it all works perfect together. I thought I remembered you saying something like that before. If it wasn't for that RYCA battery box I would have moved the carb further away from the engine and a straight hose back to as huge foam air filter that way the engine would continue to suck the money directly from my wallet !!! ;D ;D ;D |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by Ruttly on 04/02/17 at 20:11:36 Batman what engine mods have you done so far ? But by far if you have room for a "Versy Type Intake-V.T.I." That would be the way to go . The longer intake I was using, but not the longest, worked well but I would have needed support brackets for carb & intake to keep it from pulling carb out of rubber manifold. However I am still searching for some light weight piping to play with ! |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by batman on 04/02/17 at 23:42:17 Ruttly,i'm running a stock motor,my only mods being ,spacer and rejetting of the carb,and a Dyna muffler.I've got a hold of a spare stock air box and side covers,and am gutting the box and using 2" pvc right off the stock rubber hose into a 90 elbow and small extension(length to be determined) in the neighborhood of18" .Air filters to be moved to the areas of the side covers which will end up twice as deep ,but the bike will remain fairly stock looking (sleeper) 4% rise in EV should occur at 3877rpm-61 mph to 4336rpm-68mph,(superslab speed in N.Y. being 65).7% rise in EV should occur at4973rpm-78mph to 5683rpm-89mph in passing mode.I'm not looking for higher speeds as the bike will already do 90,I'm looking for more power to build speed on on ramps .to be able to pass a bit faster if need be and to have a bit more power as I am riding two up most of the time.the speeds above are 5th gear,being in4th would decease them by 4mph. |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by Ruttly on 04/03/17 at 05:57:00 Batman , Inorder to get more air in this engine you have be able to get more out to make it effective. I highly recommend that you do some work on the exhaust port ! |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by batman on 04/03/17 at 08:31:04 Ruttly ,yes ,have planed to do that,I've also thought about shortening the exhaust header slightly(less than an inch) as that favors higher rpms. |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by Ruttly on 04/03/17 at 10:08:48 I will send you a PM when I get home tonight. There is a book you need to read ! |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by Kris01 on 04/03/17 at 17:54:10 Enlighten us! |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by Ruttly on 04/03/17 at 18:35:55 This is the book everyone wanting to learn about getting more performance should read. In this book they use a Yamaha SR 500 as a example , parallels with the Savage engine quite well. All the theory , all the math , it's a fantastic book , has been in print for many many years and is still relevant today. The teacher I had used this book in his engine performance class Dema Elgin of Elgin Performance Cams. You can find it new or used online. Four Stroke Performance Tuning by A. Graham Bell It's worth every penny ! |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by Kris01 on 04/03/17 at 18:40:16 Oh yeah! I've got a copy around here somewhere. It's probably 20 years old by now! |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by Kris01 on 04/03/17 at 18:42:40 Here ya go: https://www.scribd.com/document/79009859/Four-Stroke-Performance-Tuning-3rd-Ed-A-Graham-Bell |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by Ruttly on 04/03/17 at 19:50:16 Dema taught us to pick a cam,but the cam had to have a specific use drag , off road , road racing and then we would pick the engine and then the math begins bore & stroke , compression ,intake & carb to match cfms required by cam & piston exhaust runner lengths. So I did the SR 500 and the cam I had bartered over way too many beers for some pristine BSA fenders and Victor 441 tank for a new mega cycle cam my SR project. Turned out to be a very fast engine ! This book is filled with great stuff and it's in depth but not so much that you won't be able to learn from it. Batman you will find a formula for exhaust runner length , paper & pencil & calculator will be needed ! I still refer back to this book , twenty five years later. |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by batman on 04/04/17 at 13:20:26 Ruttley .Yes heard of this book in earlier posts ,will check it out.thanks! |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by hotrod on 04/04/17 at 13:46:37 Another great book is, Design And Tuning Of Competition Engines, by Philip Smith. Mine is old, like 1966. It's a surprise to see that not much has changed over the years. Those old dudes were smart. |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by Gary_in_NJ on 04/04/17 at 15:38:17 7F565A5A524506370 wrote:
In 1966 the ICE was already over 75 years old. Of course they knew a lot about engines. Look at the advancements through the 1940's and 50's alone. Before the jet era Pratt and Whitney, Allison and Rolls Royce built the most advanced engines the word had ever seen. Race car engines were making over 100hp/liter. By the 1960's the ICE was well known and established technology. It certainly wasn't the dark ages. Yes, the basic formula of suck-squeeze-bang-blow hasn't changed in 50 years, but almost everything about the ICE has. When that book was written points and condensers buried inside of a distributor and mechanical fuel injection were state of the art. Few could ever imagine computer controlled engine management that has given us variable valve timing, direct ignition, electronic fuel injection, HCCI...we can go on for pages. |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by Ruttly on 04/04/17 at 20:50:48 Many of these type of books have been in print for years and years but not many include motorcycle engines. ICE is a ICE but to me when your only working with one cylinder , makes me want to get it as close to perfect as possible. I love my Thumpers , they are dinosaurs in a modern world , for me it's a thrill to ride them ! I don't care if I ever reach 105 mph again , even if every ride is a journey , I'll enjoy every mile and get off smiling ! |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by Kris01 on 04/05/17 at 18:48:33 321514140C19600 wrote:
And that is exactly why I ride! Most of these books talk about intake plenums and header collectors. That's something unknown to a thumper but the rest of the book usually applies. |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by Ruttly on 04/05/17 at 19:11:04 Yeah some people golf , bowl , gamble , baseball , video games I just ride , it repairs my soul , puts my mind at ease , gets the blood flowing , kinda like a mini vacation ! |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by Kris01 on 04/05/17 at 19:19:38 I live about 45 seconds from a main road. In that 45 seconds, while I leave the neighborhood in 2nd gear, my whole attitude changes. It can be the worst day ever but in that first 45 seconds, my whole world changes. The bike and I are warming up together, so to speak. |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by Ruttly on 04/05/17 at 19:39:25 No matter how I try to explain it , words can't explain how it makes me feel |
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Title: Re: Correct OEM Spark Plug Post by Ruttly on 04/08/17 at 21:55:27 For total overall performance the SR500 is a better engine , but I already have one , so I needed another project. RYCA tracker original plan was find the donor bike ,put nice exhaust on it and rejet stock carb and call it done. But oh no , two things changed all that , first is I found this forum and all goodies to be had from here and a great membership complete with technical support and second was I found my donor engine leaking oil between the two main cases. Darn the bad luck now I had to tear down a engine with only 809 miles on it. Upside of that was I get to build the engine. Finding that this engine has its draw backs , a simply horrible exhaust port and a crankshaft/flywheel/rotor that is incredibly heavy and flimsy clutch basket , amongst some other issues. But it has two outstanding attributes it's a big 650 single with a happy button. I will spare you all the long a$$ list of engine mods , but it is much improved over a stocker as far as power , now we will find out if it will stand up to the test of time ! |
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