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/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Ignition coil /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1489021811 Message started by batman on 03/08/17 at 17:10:11 |
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Title: Ignition coil Post by batman on 03/08/17 at 17:10:11 It seems that the only time we talk about the coil is to tell our members to test it by putting a plug in the coil wire and hold it against a good ground on the head ,check for a good bright blue or weak yellow spark. How blue is blue? how yellow is yellow? If we use a volt/ohm meter the Clymer manual tells us to remove the coil and set the meter on the ohm's scales ,the primary resistance can be taken across the +and - connections and should be between 1-7ohms,set a lead on either the + or - and the end of the sparkplug wire ,the resistance of the secondary should be 10k-25k ohms. This would give us a better idea of the health of the coil. The coil is built very tuff and gives remarkable service.Charge time ,the time it takes to fully build a charge in the primary in our coil can be between 2.1-6 milliseconds,that voltage is between 12.5-14.5 normally ,(we know if voltage drops below 10 v while the starter is engaged we don't have spark at the plug) The field will then collapse ,inducing a current in the secondary,the voltage grows until it can ionize a path between the electrodes of the sparkplug ,allowing the plug to fire. At an idle speed of 1000RPM the plug fires 16.66 times/per second, at a speed of 4140 rpm (about 65mph) it fires at a rate of 69 times/per second(248,430 /per hr.) After market /racing coils should never be used on our bikes ,these are high output and the voltage that can't be used by the plug can cause Flyback,which disturbs coil harmonics and can damage the TDI,they are also low resistance admitting EMI(electromagnetic interference) and RFI (radio frequency interference) which can also damage the TDI. These coils have charge times from .3-.5 milliseconds and are used with CDI 's, which send voltages of 30 to 500v to the primary coil but are only needed for motors that redline at about 10,00 RPM and above. |
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Title: Re: Ignition coil Post by justin_o_guy2 on 03/08/17 at 19:39:15 I'm tired and my brain calculator is not exactly charged up, but it looks like you didn't account for the TDC exhaust spark.. |
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Title: Re: Ignition coil Post by batman on 03/08/17 at 19:53:19 JOG the spark is driven off the crank so I think I did |
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Title: Re: Ignition coil Post by justin_o_guy2 on 03/08/17 at 20:30:39 Okay, should have known. How do you know so much about coils? I wouldn't have known I couldn't just stick one off of an old pickup on it. |
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Title: Re: Ignition coil Post by mpescatori on 03/09/17 at 01:14:27 OK. Let's say I am traveling and my coil goes bust. No OEM coil available. What other possible coil ? Will any coil do ? ::) |
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Title: Re: Ignition coil Post by LANCER on 03/09/17 at 06:30:47 55485D4B5B594C574A51380 wrote:
When traveling carry a spare of each electronic component. They don't take up much room. 8-) |
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Title: Re: Ignition coil Post by justin_o_guy2 on 03/09/17 at 06:50:11 Coil, ignition box, what else? There's the thing in the engine, name escapes me, thanks to the sixties...no, not the 1960s, |
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Title: Re: Ignition coil Post by Ruttly on 03/09/17 at 06:54:28 Ignitor ? |
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Title: Re: Ignition coil Post by justin_o_guy2 on 03/09/17 at 07:48:56 Stator? Yeah, not a carry item, but I can see hauling bulbs and a coil. I've never had a coil go bad on a bike, but considering how hard it would be to get The Right coil from, even If it puked in a town, odds of someone having it on the shelf are slim. So, in preparation for the trip, what besides bulbs and a coil should I have? It'd be Nice to have black box, but they are a rarely dead and always expensive item, aren't they? Ya know, there's a motorcycle junkyard about forty miles from me. I should check it out. I have an 02, I guess any year model coil would work, but if I could get the iggy module and decomp controller for cheap, I'd like that. Might as well grab a rectifier. Does anyone know what year donor bikes would work with the 02? |
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Title: Re: Ignition coil Post by batman on 03/09/17 at 09:05:36 If I were pressed for a coil I would use a standard coil off a auto, (you should be able to buy one of the old ceramic ballast resistors used in Chrysler products to bring the voltage going to the coil from 12 to 6v) but not run the external capacitor usually connected at the positive post of the coil. The resistance of the coil would be unknown ,but there would be some in the spark plug wire,standard wires have a core of carbon infused fiberglass fibers,where as high out put coils sometimes use solid wire ,usually stainless steel,which might cause flyback. I would change to the stock coil as early as possible . AS for spares I find that to carry them is both expensive and inconvenient ,The best thing to carry on a trip would be a set of jumper cables that you can make yourself out of two runs of wire and 4 clips, these can get you out of trouble ,a lot of motorists will stop if your on the side of the road ,dead battery , get a jump,bad alternator,remove your head light bulb-get a jump,OR two or three,pogo yourself to the dealer.coils as stated before are very tuff ,the most likely problem would be the sparkplug lead being cracked due to age and the spark jumping to ground on the head before reaching the plug, this may be taped for a temporary fix . TDI gone because you left the key on? sorry it's tow time. |
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Title: Re: Ignition coil Post by verslagen1 on 03/09/17 at 09:46:39 Unless you're going on the alaskan hwy, bulbs and fuses are common items. and most of those pesky electrical items can be bypassed. safeties, decomp controller, kickstand relay (WTF does that do anyway?) Key items that would cause great concern for replacement, TDI, coil, stator, starter relay, and rectumfryer. The TDI for us comes in 2 varieties, pre and post '88 (gonna have to check transition year) Other than timing (location of the sensor trigger) advance curves are more or less the same and done electronically per rpm. I would think any single TDI and matching coil would serve as a replacement. Of course there could be an issue with timing, so having a commensurate year may work. As to whether you could replace 1 coil with another, probably. Find 1 with the same size, resistance it may work. Please remember that our coil will burn out the TDI if left on over night. So I'd check the amperage of the coil as well. These values may have to be checked by others so that we have values to check against. Checking a burnt out coil ain't gonna work. stator/rectumfryer, we already know a few models have a similar stator, although the wiring will be different, you should be able to splice it in. and same for the rectumfryer. Starter relay, worst case place the starter somewhere where you can get at it and jump the 2 terminals with a screwdriver. Otherwise, any relay rated for the amperage will do, and others will work once or twice ;) |
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Title: Re: Ignition coil Post by justin_o_guy2 on 03/09/17 at 11:12:34 Well, I Have a cell phone. I hope a couple of you electrical component savvy guys will let me have your number before I hit the road. I wasn't planning on hauling an ohm meter,, but if I have room after the important stuff, tent, fishing stuff, clothing, I will look at what else I have room for. I pack light and tight. I emptied the salt shaker and stuffed a sock in it once when I was moving. An old LTD with a Two Jimmy Hoffa trunk, everything I owned had to go in or get tossed out. |
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Title: Re: Ignition coil Post by batman on 03/09/17 at 12:01:08 Versy , If I were planning a trip to Alaska, I'd be changing all the items first ,working on the bike on a dirt section of the al-can highway with a grisly bear looking over my shoulder as little appeal for me.I think my spares would be more like ,tires ,tubes ,drive belt,and fuel. |
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Title: Re: Ignition coil Post by verslagen1 on 03/09/17 at 13:13:13 Don't forget the 50cal... 'jack' :-? |
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Title: Re: Ignition coil Post by batman on 03/09/17 at 16:48:22 Shotgun ,rifled,18.inch barrel,butt shorten to have a total length of 29 inches, meets federal law in all 50 states,12 gauge Remington copper plus ammo . a discouraging word that will be heard,even if the skies are cloudy all day! ::) |
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Title: Re: Ignition coil Post by Kris01 on 03/09/17 at 17:49:59 485B4C4D525F595B500F3E0 wrote:
I think that's what allows the bike to start with the stand down but only in neutral. |
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Title: Re: Ignition coil Post by batman on 03/09/17 at 18:06:17 Kris ,you can start the bike in gear with the stand down ,it doesn't stall until you let the clutch out,and you have to pull in the clutch lever to get the starter to run.(stock bike nothing bypassed) |
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Title: Re: Ignition coil Post by Kris01 on 03/09/17 at 19:58:31 Ahhh...that's true. I guess the kickstand relay works with the clutch lever to kill the engine when in gear. I was just trying to provide Versy with some info. (Like I know something he doesn't! :P) |
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Title: Re: Ignition coil Post by verslagen1 on 03/09/17 at 22:30:31 yes works with the kickstand to cut the power to the ig circuit. http://www.savageriders.com/verslagen/Circuits/%2796-%2703Startingcircuit.jpg |
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