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/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Rounded a nut. Help! /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1486256915 Message started by jwenrich on 02/04/17 at 17:08:33 |
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Title: Rounded a nut. Help! Post by jwenrich on 02/04/17 at 17:08:33 Well the piston swap was going great. Got the engine out, head cover is off, and finally just had the two under head nuts to remove. The rear nut rounded off :( It's such a small space, I couldn't get any of my sockets in, and using a 12pt wrench rounded it. I've tried heat, some vise grips (needle nose, all I've got) At this point I'm at a loss. How do I get this nut off. Its stopped my whole project. Any thoughts/advice? |
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Title: Re: Rounded a nut. Help! Post by Serowbot on 02/04/17 at 17:25:16 Kin ya' git a vice-grip in there?... :-/ |
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Title: Re: Rounded a nut. Help! Post by Kenny G on 02/04/17 at 17:36:12 Start out with soaking the nut and stud with penetrating oil. As I posted on FaceBook you need a Craftsman 6 point Craftsman box end combination wrench. You may have to take a wooden dowel and hammer to tap the wrench into place and maybe put something on the end of the wrench to get more leverage. Make sure that you are turning the wrench the right direction. Kenny G |
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Title: Re: Rounded a nut. Help! Post by Gary_in_NJ on 02/04/17 at 17:46:06 25382A213D262C274F0 wrote:
There your cause. Take all of your 12-point sockets and wrenches and give them to someone you don't like. Then go replace them with proper 6-point sockets and wrenches. Of the hundreds of sockets and wrenches in my box, not one is a 12-point. Now, on to the problem. Use a file and redress the nut. Then use one of your new 6-point wrenches (better, a socket and a long breaker bar) to get this nut started. Vice grips will work if you have room to move. If you have a die grinder you can score the nut and crack it with a chisel and hammer. If you can't get it off at all, cut the whole thing off and replace the stud. Can someone chime in and confirm that the stud can be backed out once the head is removed? |
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Title: Re: Rounded a nut. Help! Post by jwenrich on 02/04/17 at 17:46:36 I was hoping to avoid buying new tools, but looks like I'l have to. I wouldn't know if the vise grips fit until they arrive :/ I'll try a 6 point and I'll get some PB blaster, but the edges are getting pretty mangled. If I can't wrangle it off, what are my options? the screw portion seems to go through and up to the intake. Also, how much do I need to worry about hammering into the thing. Do I risk cracking portions of the block? |
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Title: Re: Rounded a nut. Help! Post by gizzo on 02/04/17 at 17:51:06 Cut it off with a grinder. Take some photos of sparks flying to post on instagram. ;) The 6 side ring spanner or even better a flank drive ring spanner will get that nut undone. |
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Title: Re: Rounded a nut. Help! Post by batman on 02/04/17 at 17:57:08 You might take a small fine file ,use it two clean up the flats ,then try a six point box end after soaking it a few times (or days) with penetrating oil........avoid buying tools? tools are like uncut diamonds,and the proper tool is a cut and polished diamond. If you buy them as you need,they shouldn't cost you much over time, and will keep you from problems like this in the future. I would try not to damage the stud going up in the head as it is steel and the head alum. and is difficult to remove and replace ,the nut isn't. you may want to replace and tighten the nut on the front of the head first ,before trying to loosen this one, the head may have "cocked " (lifted in front) allowing the rear to bind.this is after all just one of six head bolts and should have been only torqued to about 20 ft/lbs.(you should have loosened all of them a little at a time,in stages, not one at a time completely,that's how their put on ,it keeps the head flat, and the head gasket evenly compressed ,not so now!For that matter you could replace all the head bolts and try removing this one first!THEN the front and the four on top evenly in stages. I would try this first, you have nothing to loose and it shouldn't cause any damage if you use a torque wrench ,don't exceed the proper torque or you could damage threads or stretch the studs . |
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Title: Re: Rounded a nut. Help! Post by buster6315 on 02/04/17 at 18:44:24 You might take a pointed chisel and position it on the shoulder of the nut and tap it in two different spots, and see if you can break it loose. You may use a small drill bit to create holes in the shoulder to set the chisel point into. |
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Title: Re: Rounded a nut. Help! Post by Armen on 02/05/17 at 07:05:14 Out of curiosity, what brand of wrench was it? |
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Title: Re: Rounded a nut. Help! Post by njohnso8 on 02/10/17 at 12:20:44 I was in EXACTLY the same predicament you are in with that exact same pain in the ass bolt, so I can certainly empathize. Heres what you do: 1) spray the hell out of it with penetrating oil 2) Go buy a set of center punches and with a lightweight hammer, TAP perpendicular into the bolt to get some grip, then turn the punch so you can tap it in the counterclockwise position. You will have to repeat this many, many, many times and it will be a huge pain. I pretty much ended up taping almost completely through the bolt before it finally loosened Heres a pic of what mine looked like when it finally came off |
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Title: Re: Rounded a nut. Help! Post by justin_o_guy2 on 02/10/17 at 13:09:26 There are no rules when fighting a problem. Tools are just tools. You can get a junky wrench at a pawn shop, clean up the area you want stuff to stick to, SURGICALLY apply a light grease to everything else, wipe a bit of epoxy on the nut and inside the wrench , wait, break it loose. I wouldn't use JB Weld,, but something you Can break loose, like a five minute epoxy. I used Devcon, because it's good. For this, I'd probably use Duro, because it's not that great. Super glue gel might be a choice, since it will dissolve with Acetone. I have been known to clip a strip of a thin feeler gauge, hold it in position with needle nose pliers until the wrench has it held in place and tapped the wrench down into position. If you can get a pin punch and shape it up to drive the smeared part of the nut back home, that might help.. The thin, runny superglue Might work, Even pounding a small, Hard wire as flat as you can might give the wrench the bite it needs. I was changing wheel bearings on a friend's car. My socket was sloppy. Option, go to town, spend twenty bucks or cut up a feeler gauge and shim it... We didn't go to town. He was Very skeptical and really didn't want me to do that. It worked and left no rounded edges on either nut, |
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Title: Re: Rounded a nut. Help! Post by piedmontbuckeye on 02/10/17 at 13:44:09 PB Blaster is the best "penetrating oil" I have ever used. Years ago, MAC tools used to sell a set of what we called "Flex-Head" wrenches. On one end was a 6-point socket that flipped side to side (180 Deg.) and on the other end was an open end. Best and most useful tools I have used over the years! 6 point, good quality tools are a must, and worth every penny! |
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Title: Re: Rounded a nut. Help! Post by Ruttly on 02/10/17 at 14:32:36 Indeed PB Blaster is the best I have ever used ! |
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Title: Re: Rounded a nut. Help! Post by justin_o_guy2 on 02/10/17 at 15:52:21 Recently an article was passed along to me from Machinist Workshop Magazine. They tested some commercially available penetrating oils on a group of nuts & bolts they had scientifically rusted to a uniform degree in a salt water solution. The fasteners were treated with a variety of commercially available penetrants and the measured torque required to loosen them was recorded. The break out torque required for: Nothing = 516 ft. lbs. WD-40 = 238 ft. lbs. PB Blaster = 214 ft. lbs. Liquid Wrench = 127 ft. lbs. Kano Kroil = 106 ft. lbs. 50/50 blend of ATF and Acetone = 50 ft. lbs. I have a shelf of lubricants, WD40 has never even been in the shop I've had for about 8 years. I have the Acetone/ATF mix, PB Blaster, Kroil. Depending on the problem, I pic k an oil. The Kroil spray is 14bucks, PB is cheap, the ATF/acetone doesn't spray and it's a hassle. |
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Title: Re: Rounded a nut. Help! Post by Gary_in_NJ on 02/10/17 at 17:49:02 627D7B7C61665767576F7D713A080 wrote:
Put it in a common spray bottle. ATF/Acetone is my go-to penetrate |
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Title: Re: Rounded a nut. Help! Post by justin_o_guy2 on 02/10/17 at 18:23:01 Word,,will do.. |
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Title: Re: Rounded a nut. Help! Post by LANCER on 02/10/17 at 20:27:59 5C565258535A5E57090F0B3B0 wrote:
Put it in a common spray bottle. ATF/Acetone is my go-to penetrate[/quote] This is the 2nd time I've seen this mix mentioned; believe it's time to mix some up and SPRAY. |
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Title: Re: Rounded a nut. Help! Post by Dave on 02/11/17 at 04:21:01 Be a little careful about what you mix and store it in......Acetone is a strong solvent and will dissolve most plastic containers. And Acetone evaporates quickly, so if you decide to store it in your metal oil can and it is vented.....the Acetone will evaporate and won't stay in the mix very long. |
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Title: Re: Rounded a nut. Help! Post by piedmontbuckeye on 02/11/17 at 06:13:37 Technically, WD40 is not a lubricant at all. It does penetrate, and if lube is there (like a door hinge with dried up grease) it will penetrate and then get the already-there grease to re-lube! Was not allowed even in the building when I worked at Rubbermaid, because it would wash away any lube the machines had on their ways. |
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Title: Re: Rounded a nut. Help! Post by Gary_in_NJ on 02/11/17 at 11:07:39 514844454C4E4F554354424A445844210 wrote:
Correct, since it's mostly Naphtha, WD40 is a solvent. I believe it does, have some 5w oil, but its not a good lube. I do use it to clean a roller chain before lubing and I do use it directly on O and X ring chains. It's also great for removing stickers. |
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Title: Re: Rounded a nut. Help! Post by Ruttly on 02/11/17 at 21:31:59 WD40 = water displacer compound 40 , light oil & solvent Not a good penetrant PB Blaster is ! |
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Title: Re: Rounded a nut. Help! Post by jwenrich on 02/12/17 at 17:49:21 Huzzah! Got the darn thing off. A dremel, some screwdriver +hammer and some choice words and it's off. |
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Title: Re: Rounded a nut. Help! Post by piedmontbuckeye on 02/17/17 at 12:58:15 4C514348544F454E260 wrote:
I have, over the years, relied heavily on anti-seize compound on problematic nut locations - thus preventing the issue you had beforehand. Anti-seize is a MUST when using steel screws going into aluminum, or on stainless screws into stainless - really prevents gaulding. |
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