|
SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> 11000 mile service cost? /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1482166182 Message started by philthymike on 12/19/16 at 08:49:42 |
|
Title: 11000 mile service cost? Post by philthymike on 12/19/16 at 08:49:42 I'm just curious about what others paid taking their bike to Suzuki for this scheduled maintenance. I was quoted $209 over the phone but actually charged $189 due to sales on parts and oil used. My clutch cable was replaced too. |
|
Title: Re: 11000 mile service cost? Post by Armen on 12/19/16 at 09:21:38 Wow! Around here you can't ride past a dealer slowly for under $200! And that includes a clutch cable? Oil, filter, clutch cable, and what else? |
|
Title: Re: 11000 mile service cost? Post by philthymike on 12/19/16 at 09:44:23 The mechanic also replaced the the plug inside the head as well as all the gaskets and o-rings in the top of the head. The 1st time I brought the bike to Suzuki for its state inspection I got a $150 Metzeler front tire for $79 on clearance. I don't know what other's experiences have been with Suzuki dealerships but I really like the one I go to in Fraser PA. They're very friendly, honest and down to Earth. Service prices have been fair IMO. |
|
Title: Re: 11000 mile service cost? Post by HAPPYDAN on 12/19/16 at 10:03:47 Yeah, you're lucky. I went to one here in (unnamed city) Washington to get an oil filter for the first change on my 2012. The clerk brings out a spin-on ::). Fortunately, I had just read a post here on oil changes, I knew what to look for and didn't get stuck. I order K&N off the net now. |
|
Title: Re: 11000 mile service cost? Post by Kenny G on 12/19/16 at 10:38:10 I am going to move to Frazer PA. |
|
Title: Re: 11000 mile service cost? Post by norm92de on 12/19/16 at 10:40:54 My local Suzuki dealer wanted $350 plus oil for the 600 mile service. needless to say I turned it down. The only reason I considered it was the warranty. I work a lot cheaper than the dealer. :) |
|
Title: Re: 11000 mile service cost? Post by Kris01 on 12/19/16 at 17:40:32 FOR AN OIL CHANGE?!?!? :o Run like your life depends on it! |
|
Title: Re: 11000 mile service cost? Post by Boofer on 12/19/16 at 20:28:25 I know a lot of you didn't have the benefit of growing up poor in rural Mississippi driving junk cars like I did, but you can overcome privilege and a great education if you just apply yourself. Just kidding for the most part. IF you want to change your own oil, all you need is an allen wrench (5mm?), a box end wrench, a funnel, rags, and something to catch waste oil. A Clymer manual is good, but there are thousands of oil changes in the memories of our group. The MAIN thing is to replace the filter on the small o ring the same way it came out. Anyway, I encourage anyone to fool with their Savage a bit and become proficient with the whole ride. I carry about $50 worth of tools in a leather roll bag on my bike. It's a good feeling to know you can help yourself if you have a (Educated talk) "failure to proceed". I love the guys and gals at my cycle shop, but I equate expenditures with the amount of groceries I could buy instead. Happy motoring. :) |
|
Title: Re: 11000 mile service cost? Post by eau de sauvage on 12/19/16 at 20:45:17 Worth it to not have to check the valves, I can't imagine them being more of a PITA than they are. |
|
Title: Re: 11000 mile service cost? Post by verslagen1 on 12/19/16 at 20:55:12 65776360777173160 wrote:
Naw... for $350 they CHECK the valves... they don't adjust them. Besides, I don't know what you mean, there's only 4. And it's pretty easy. You just need more cow bell. |
|
Title: Re: 11000 mile service cost? Post by Dave on 12/20/16 at 04:21:50 The job of adjusting valves on the Savage is not difficult, and a lot of us own a Savage as it is easy to work on, and parts are accessible and affordable. With the feeler gauges bent to the proper "Z" angle.....the clearance can be checked easily. Actually getting the wrench on the lock nut and making the change can be a bit tedious. Some of the modern bikes have "buttons" under the cam that push on the valves.....and you have to remove the cams to change the shims in the buttons. (By not having rocker arms the engine can handle really high rpm's easier). It is a huge job to remove the bodywork and cam covers to even get to the point where you can check the valve clearance - then if adjustments are necessary the cams have to be removed! |
|
Title: Re: 11000 mile service cost? Post by norm92de on 12/20/16 at 07:26:55 The 600 mile service does of course entail removing the top of the cylinder head to re-torque the cylinder head bolts, not just an oil change. I did my own service but I didn't disturb the top cap. Dumb idea! :'( |
|
Title: Re: 11000 mile service cost? Post by old.indian on 12/20/16 at 08:00:19 The three things I've done to make life easier for DYI on the Thumper. 1) Varsi's seat pins 2) Raptor petcock 3) Remove chrome head covers.... The seat comes off and goes on in a flash. No more having to empty the tank to remove it. Easy access to the spark plug and valve covers. 8-) |
|
Title: Re: 11000 mile service cost? Post by verslagen1 on 12/20/16 at 08:40:23 I had one of the tank bolts strip out the other day, found a pin to replace that too. |
|
Title: Re: 11000 mile service cost? Post by Kenny G on 12/20/16 at 09:14:58 Verslagen, If possible, please show us how you did pin for the tank. Kenny G |
|
Title: Re: 11000 mile service cost? Post by philthymike on 12/20/16 at 09:16:38 I took the bike in for the 11,000 mile service mostly because of the engine and frame bolt re-torquing. I don't have a torque wrench or the patience/time to do it right. The mechanic explained he has to torque the head bolts then wait a few hours and check the torque again a few times over to get it right. I don't have that kind of time on my hands. I also liked that the chassis was getting lubed where needed and all movement checked against the specs. And I didn't want ot have to adjust the valves if it was necessary. It's been 20 years since I wrenched on a bike's engine and I'm trying to take it slow with getting back into it again. Considering I bought the bike used from somebody who didn't maintain it properly I figured it would be good to get a baseline from here forwards and have some idea of what needs attention and in what order. The mechanic was thorough and gave me a good education about my bike and it's future needs. that alone was worth the money for me. |
|
Title: Re: 11000 mile service cost? Post by verslagen1 on 12/20/16 at 09:22:07 7658537E4F5C4E553D0 wrote:
same as the seat pins, drill out threads, shove in pin. This bike has the HD seat, so no seat lift. grip is about 7/8" Oh, I had to take out the spacer that runs thru it, the pin is Ĝ 1/4" and the ID of the spacer is 6mm. |
|
Title: Re: 11000 mile service cost? Post by justin_o_guy2 on 12/20/16 at 09:42:19 You're getting raped. Nobody, NOBODY, messes with the head bolts. Nobody has problems because of it. The number of diagnosed Head gasket problems That ARE head gasket problems is about 1%. It's nearly always the head plug. Check the valves, look at the cam chain adjuster. Ride. Get a Versy on the way. |
|
Title: Re: 11000 mile service cost? Post by verslagen1 on 12/20/16 at 10:01:09 Jog, in addition to the head plug leak, there is a leak from the head bolts that maybe due to not torquing the head bolts. or not annealing the copper washers when it's done. not sure. |
|
Title: Re: 11000 mile service cost? Post by justin_o_guy2 on 12/20/16 at 10:27:08 Well, I only had one.. And it went 20,000 fun miles. The. Oring at the clutch shaft/engine cover leaked. Some Few do have leaks. The washers and head plug seems to be the most common, but a Blown head gasket is quite rare, but not so rarely the Professional Mechanics diagnosis. Just saying, be careful. Don't fix what ain't broke. |
|
Title: Re: 11000 mile service cost? Post by Kenny G on 12/20/16 at 10:38:04 Verslagen, Pins to hold the tank on is another good idea. Kenny G |
|
Title: Re: 11000 mile service cost? Post by eau de sauvage on 12/20/16 at 12:14:20 @verslagen1, I did the valves a few days ago and my back is killing me from the bizarre contortions I had to twist myself into in order to finagle the feeler gauges past the cunningly devised visual and physical obstacles. I would be nice if suzukisavage forum could publish the a photo of the designer of this part of the engine so I can make up a voodoo doll and stick a pin in it every time I need to adjust the valves, especially the rear ones. The motion pro tool made it a little easier. I think part of the problem for me is that I have to double and triple check it. After I had them adjusted I rattled the rockers to try and get a feel for what correct adjustment feels like. I'm sure that's how they did in on Fred Fintsone's car. Coincidentally my previous LS650 had the easiest to adjust tappets that was possible. |
|
Title: Re: 11000 mile service cost? Post by Dave on 12/21/16 at 03:20:10 We have had nearly zero blown head gaskets, and this collective forum has developed an opinion that re-torquing the head isn't necessary. We have had several bikes that have developed small oil leaks when the oil "seeps" around in the layers off the head gasket. A passage at the right rear of the cylinder barrel supplies pressurized oil to the head, and that oil can creep between the layers of the head gasket and come out at the studs under the intake and exhaust port. Would re-torquing the head prevent/stop that...I dunno? Also we have had several engines leak oil at the left front cylinder head washer.....the space around this stud has a passage for the oil to drain from the head back down to the crankcase. And we had one member whose right rear cylinder stud began to leak oil from the cam housing above....the nut and copper washer is in the cam housing and is exposed to the oil in the head, and if the copper washer doesn't seal it can drip oil out onto the head in the hollow space that goes through the right side of the head from the exhaust port back through the head. If you have to take the head cover off to fix something like a leaky head plug, you need to re-seal the head cover to the head to fix a leak, or you are doing work to the cam or rockers - you might want to re-torque the head/cylinder studs. You need to remove the nut and copper washer, clean the area well, use a new copper washer or anneal and smooth the old one, apply a small amount of sealer to the bottom of the washer on the left front and right rear washers, apply never seize to the studs and nut.....then re-torque the head. I don't believe it is necessary to come back later and re-torque them.....once is enough as the torque value will not be the same once the fastener stops moving (static friction has to be overcome). Re-torquing the head may help to stop the oil weeping around in the head gasket layers - maybe. :-? |
|
Title: Re: 11000 mile service cost? Post by philthymike on 12/21/16 at 06:58:53 What is the method for annealing the copper washers? Does it involve a torch? Can someone please explain this? |
|
Title: Re: 11000 mile service cost? Post by Dave on 12/21/16 at 07:07:41 You clean the grease/oil off he washers, then heat them with a torch to a dull/dark red, and let them cool. You will then have to clean off the oxidation that occurs from the heating process. |
|
SuzukiSavage.com » Powered by YaBB 2.2! YaBB © 2000-2007. All Rights Reserved. |