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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Removing Left Side Engine Cover /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1479321667 Message started by Kenny G on 11/16/16 at 10:41:07 |
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Title: Removing Left Side Engine Cover Post by Kenny G on 11/16/16 at 10:41:07 While getting ready to adjust my valves I broke a piece off of the backside of the threaded inspection cover. Naturally the broken piece fell in the inspection hole and I could see it. When I went to pickup the broken piece with a tweezers it fell into the engine. I have all of the bolts removed from the left side engine cover. Before I attempt to pull the cover what else do I have to remove from the engine to find the missing piece of aluminum? All help will be appreciated. Kenny G :'( |
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Title: Re: Removing Left Side Engine Cover Post by Dave on 11/16/16 at 11:17:45 The wiring harness comes out the backside of this cover, and it is held in place by a sheet metal shield that is held on by a single screw. You need to remove this shield to allow the wires to come forward with the cover. And when you go to pull the cover off - it will move and then feel like somebody is pulling it back on! The strong magnets make a "tug or war" out of the process. You likely will need a new gasket, as they tend to tear. |
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Title: Re: Removing Left Side Engine Cover Post by Kenny G on 11/16/16 at 11:48:23 Thank you Dave, I am thinking you are telling me that I will have to remove the guard covering the belt pulley to get at the sheet metal screw to remove the sheet metal shield to allow the wires to move? Will the cover clear the foot peg and side stand when I attempt to pull it off? I am a little dense when it comes to mechanical stuff. Kenny G :-/ |
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Title: Re: Removing Left Side Engine Cover Post by Dave on 11/16/16 at 11:55:15 406E6548796A78630B0 wrote:
You will have to remove the pulley cover/guard, and you may also have to loosen/remove some plastic ties that hold the wiring harness to the frame. Be careful to get it back together properly - more than one member has not got the wiring harness back properly and the belt has rubbed through the wires and left them "stranded" (pun intended). I have not removed a left cover on a bike with stock footpegs/sidestand in a long time.....I don't remember if the peg assembly needs to be removed. |
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Title: Re: Removing Left Side Engine Cover Post by verslagen1 on 11/16/16 at 11:58:14 143A311C2D3E2C375F0 wrote:
Yes, you need to remove the pulley cover Quote:
No, you will need to remove both. I'm not sure if the wiring comes off with the cover. You'll see it better when you take off the pulley cover. There's a rubber bit that the wires pass thru. And I think it's on the case side like the neutral wires on the clutch side. |
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Title: Re: Removing Left Side Engine Cover Post by Kenny G on 11/16/16 at 12:08:52 Dave & Verslagen Thanks for information. I am going to go to the cycle store and order the gasket and a timing cover from an Intruder that I will need, and then I will finish disassembly. Wish me luck. Kenny |
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Title: Re: Removing Left Side Engine Cover Post by DavidP on 11/16/16 at 12:51:01 Is it a big piece? I am wondering if it might flush out if you were to drain the oil. Drain it through an old pair of tights or similar and you would know if you caught it. DavidP |
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Title: Re: Removing Left Side Engine Cover Post by Steve H on 11/16/16 at 15:07:49 You do need to move the footpeg mount to get the stator cover off IIRC. The gasket has a couple of preglued spots on it to make sure it will disintegrate when removed. If you remove the wiring, make sure the rubber block seats well when you put it back together or it will leak oil. |
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Title: Re: Removing Left Side Engine Cover Post by youzguyz on 11/16/16 at 15:48:05 The wiring comes off with the cover (the rubber plug is in the cover, not on the engine case). As said before, makes sure you take off that single screw/bracket that holds the wire harness to the case, and loosen those plastic wire ties. While you CAN let the cover dangle by the wiring, you may need to get it completely off so you can clean up the mating surfaces a bit easier.. and that is also the best reason for getting the foot peg completely out of the way. |
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Title: Re: Removing Left Side Engine Cover Post by Kenny G on 11/16/16 at 17:52:21 Thanks Guyz & Steve & David, I was able to find the correct part number for the timing cover with the hex rather than the slotted cover. The hex is Suzuki Part# 09259-36008 it is available from Ron Ayers $10.62 or my local dealer for $15.95 + tax. I want to post the part number in the Technical Area. I should have the parts that I need by Friday or Saturday. Kenny G |
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Title: Re: Removing Left Side Engine Cover Post by batman on 11/16/16 at 20:15:23 I'm not sure ,but you might try taking a small piece of a magnet (Like the kind that you stick on the frig ) on a piece of fishing line and see if you can retrieve the invaders before pulling the cover . |
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Title: Re: Removing Left Side Engine Cover Post by Kenny G on 11/16/16 at 20:18:23 BatMan, I could get it with a magnet, but the piece that fell in is aluminum. Lousy day for bad luck...I will get over it. Kenny G |
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Title: Re: Removing Left Side Engine Cover Post by Kenny G on 11/16/16 at 22:32:55 I am having trouble finding the reference marks to find TDC as mentioned in Clymer's. "Align the groove on the end of the alternator rotor with the notch in the alternator cover". I have found a yellow dot on the rotor and there is a small dab of blue paint on the cover by the threads for the inspection cover. I am using Verslagen's post for the valve adjustment. Kenny G :-/ |
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Title: Re: Removing Left Side Engine Cover Post by verslagen1 on 11/16/16 at 22:44:45 You'll find the mark on the cover at 3 o'clock. the mark on the crank is probably under the paint. it's a deep scribe mark that radiates out from under the nut. http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee201/Digger109/TDC-IndexMarksE.jpg |
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Title: Re: Removing Left Side Engine Cover Post by Dave on 11/17/16 at 04:13:10 6D4348655447554E260 wrote:
The part numbers are already in the Tech Section. http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1416070003 |
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Title: Re: Removing Left Side Engine Cover Post by Kenny G on 11/17/16 at 05:45:47 Verslagen, Thanks for the picture, the picture being worth a thousand words. At this point I don't want to turn the engine over until I find the piece of broken aluminum. I will wait to finish pulling the cover until my gasket gets here. I am familiar with checking to be certain that I am at TDC on the rockers before I attempt any adjustments. Dave, I wish I had known where to find the part number before I went to the dealer to order parts. We had a heck of a time finding the timing cover using the Suzuki Model Number(s). Kenny G |
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Title: Re: Removing Left Side Engine Cover Post by Dave on 11/17/16 at 06:18:25 1C3239142536243F570 wrote:
It is listed in the Tech Section Table of Contents - But all you had to do was ask and one of the forum members could have directed you to the part numbers. (There is a lot of information on this site if you know where to look). |
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Title: Re: Removing Left Side Engine Cover Post by Kenny G on 11/17/16 at 06:39:11 Dave, I know this site is a treasure for owning a Savage/S40, but I guess I am not sure how to use some of the features to find information. After I looked in the Technical Section it wasn't hard to find "Timing Cover Replacement" what could be more obvious? As the saying goes: "There is no fool like an old fool". Thanks for being patient with some of us that are mechanically and information challenged. Kenny G |
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Title: Re: Removing Left Side Engine Cover Post by Kenny G on 11/18/16 at 07:40:14 So far it looks like the most difficult part of this for me is going to be getting the springs off of the kick stand. I am not strong enough. Anyone have any tricks on how to pull the spring off? Kenny G :'( |
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Title: Re: Removing Left Side Engine Cover Post by Dave on 11/18/16 at 07:44:38 4C6269447566746F070 wrote:
I don't think you have to take it off? Doesn't it just come off with the footpeg mount? |
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Title: Re: Removing Left Side Engine Cover Post by verslagen1 on 11/18/16 at 07:46:31 Kenny, don't mess with the springs. they come off with the mount. |
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Title: Re: Removing Left Side Engine Cover Post by Kenny G on 11/18/16 at 07:51:47 Verslagen Thank You, Kenny G |
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Title: Re: Removing Left Side Engine Cover Post by Kenny G on 11/18/16 at 09:29:31 Verslagen, Not having to remove the springs from the kickstand was a life saver. I managed to get the left cover off and found the broken piece of aluminum and removed it. Both locating dowels are intact and where they belong. I did find a washer laying in the cover that looks like it probably goes on the axel that is pressed into the cover that a small gear near the starter goes onto. I will look over the exploded view in the parts fiche online. If anyone know where it goes please chime in. I ordered 2 of the left side cover gaskets, just to be safe. As always, when there are spare parts coming, I didn't damage the gasket. Should I just clean the gasket and re-assemble using the old gasket? Kenny G |
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Title: Re: Removing Left Side Engine Cover Post by verslagen1 on 11/18/16 at 09:52:11 I'd reuse the gasket if it looks ok. Goes on the torque limiter gear. http://www.savageriders.com/verslagen/Starter%20Clutch%20Upgrade/washer-location.jpg |
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Title: Re: Removing Left Side Engine Cover Post by Kenny G on 11/18/16 at 10:17:43 Verslagen, Thank You!!! I am very glad that I asked the question about the washer. Thank you again. The axel shown on the gear with the X over it is in my cover. Should I pull the axel from the cover and insert it in the gear or leave well enough alone? Should I go ahead and adjust the valves now or should I re-assemble the cover and pegs and stuff? Kenny G |
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Title: Re: Removing Left Side Engine Cover Post by verslagen1 on 11/18/16 at 10:28:10 You're going find it easier to assemble if all the gears and axles are on the case side. At least that's the way I did it. |
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Title: Re: Removing Left Side Engine Cover Post by Kenny G on 11/18/16 at 22:39:00 Finally I am ready to adjust the valves. Working on a Savage/S40 during the day without Verslagen online to bail me out would be like trying to race a BMW in the olden times without being able to contact Reg Pridmore. Ken Crash |
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Title: Re: Removing Left Side Engine Cover Post by Kenny G on 11/19/16 at 08:11:49 I was just checking as to the torque requirements for the bolts that run trough the engine and hold the peg brackets on. Here is what I found in the technical section: Engine mounting No. 1 bolts and nuts 37.0 45.0 | 27.3 33.2 Engine mounting No. 2 bolt 70.0 88.0 | 51.6 64.9 Engine mounting No. 3 bolts and nuts 70.0 88.0 | 51.6 64.9 Engine mounting No. 4 bolt and nut 70.0 88.0 | 51.6 64.9 Engine mounting No. 5 Allen 20.0 30.0 | 14.7 22.1 How does one know which number the trough bolts are? Kenny G |
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Title: Re: Removing Left Side Engine Cover Post by verslagen1 on 11/19/16 at 09:11:22 28060D201102100B630 wrote:
Good question, although it might be in the SSM, clymers doesn't say. So we're left up to logic. Below I've grouped the torques and we can see there are 3 levels. #5 says allen, so those are the allen bolts above and below the swingarm. #1 are the lowest and the rest are the highest. All of the frame bolts are the same size, 17mm nuts. So those are the highest inc. the footpegs. The bolts at the top are smaller, 12mm nuts, so those are the #1's Engine mounting No. 1 bolts and nuts 37.0 45.0 | 27.3 33.2 Engine mounting No. 2, No. 3, No. 4 bolt and nut 70.0 88.0 | 51.6 64.9 Engine mounting No. 5 Allen 20.0 30.0 | 14.7 22.1 |
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Title: Re: Removing Left Side Engine Cover Post by Kenny G on 11/19/16 at 10:21:18 Verslagen, Thank you very much. Earlier I had taken a chance on the 27 Ft LB and double checked the degree of tightness with a breaker bar and the through bolts felt "Good & Tight". I have never used a torque wrench before with the exception of the internal bolts on an engine and torqueing a head down. Suddenly I am risking breaking bolts off, old age is wonderful. :-/ Kenny G |
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Title: Re: Removing Left Side Engine Cover Post by Kenny G on 11/22/16 at 13:31:54 The valves are finally adjusted. I buttoned up the engine and it started. No big pieces cam flying off and it sounds good. I am thankful for Serowbots epistle on finding TDC. I could have never done it without Verslagen's instructions and hand holding. At some point I will post some pictures of what I used for tools. My ham fisted hands are 2 sizes too big to use the Motion Pro feeler gauges designed for the job. Thank heaven for Amazon they came through with feeler gauges for clods....LOL Kenny G :) |
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