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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Tire and Tube Question /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1478540070 Message started by whoisrawb on 11/07/16 at 09:34:30 |
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Title: Tire and Tube Question Post by whoisrawb on 11/07/16 at 09:34:30 Hello All, I just ordered replacement Tires for my 650 i ended up with metzeler 888 ultra marathons 100-90-19 for the front and 140-80-15 for the rear. For Inner Tubes I found Inner Tube for 100/90-19 Tire | Part #ZZ21720 For the Front Now for the questions.....I am having a hard time finding the rear size...i found one : Color - PV-78 Size - 140/90-15 Sku #305639 Will this work even thought its 140/90 not 140/80 ....sorry to be a total newb but appreciate the input Thanks Yall |
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Title: Re: Tire and Tube Question Post by ohiomoto on 11/07/16 at 09:59:18 The short answer is, yes it will work. The long answer is just a few posts down on this page: http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1478216078 |
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Title: Re: Tire and Tube Question Post by justin_o_guy2 on 11/07/16 at 10:26:32 The people at Revzilla were comfortable selling the 140/90/15 tube to be installed in the 140/80/15 Metzler . The guy at the Suzuki shop was comfortable with it, too. Don't forget about the rim strips... I did, and it's not cheap at the dealership.. And if you're wanting to balance the tires with the beads, get them now, with the tires, tubes, and get free shipping. |
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Title: Re: Tire and Tube Question Post by ero4444 on 11/25/16 at 19:54:56 these balancing beads are fascinating. I've never heard of them before. Do you use these completely instead of spoke weights? I am still riding on my original 2001 IRC tires, 3400 miles. It's been 100% garaged and I only see one crack in the tread, rubber feels good, but I know that I'm tempting fate. Up to now I've stalled on getting them replaced because when I called 2 shops around here for service, they did not even ask what tires I wanted, just spit out a price - weird, gives me a bad feeling about having them do the work. They're the only nearby shops. I'm debating mounting my own tires. I have some tools and a lift, but no bead breaker. I've done bicycle tires, nothing bigger. 1. Should I be able to get the tire off with 2-3 irons and some rubber/cut garden hose to protect the rims? I am thinking I'd use a big wooden handscrew clamp to break the bead. I'll buy the cheap Harbor Freight breaker if the clamp doesn't work. Maybe a compressor too. 2. Can I balance tires myself on the bike? I've never added weights before. EDITTED LATER - now I see a bunch of motorcycle tire tools on Amazon, balancing beads too - I'm gonna just do it. Thanks for the comment below - it is reassuring. |
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Title: Re: Tire and Tube Question Post by Steve H on 11/25/16 at 20:30:33 You don't really have to break the bead as such since these aren't tubeless tires, it is pretty easy to push down to the drop center. A couple tire irons and something to protect the rim and you're golden. |
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Title: Re: Tire and Tube Question Post by piedmontbuckeye on 11/26/16 at 05:06:00 36213C67676767530 wrote:
Maybe I can add my 2 cents worth. NEVER use screwdrivers as tire tools! For a bead breaker when doing my own tires, I use a fairly good size "C" clamp and a few pieces of wood (1/2" thick plywood to spread out the pressure) and squeeze tire together (on the bike at first to hold wheel) until beads break down off rim in a single place - usually tire will then release from all around. To help with making sure that you don't mar the wheel, you can purchase some tire changing protectors (plastic) but a friend showed me a cheaper way: use some plastic from a gallon jug - best is the thick type of jug like on a Prestone anti-freeze jug. Works great! My son used the balancing beads and personally I didn't like them. I went for the stick on 1/4 oz. weights. I have found that you need about 3 hands and about 4 tools to get tire to go over rim at first - after that, it is easy to pull the rest by hand. When installing new one, be sure to put only one side on first, then the tube, and then the second side - this is where it is easy to pinch a hole in the tube. Be careful! |
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Title: Re: Tire and Tube Question Post by batman on 11/26/16 at 07:38:31 JUST A LITTLE HEADS UP,the tires have a red or yellow dot on the sidewall ,this is the lighter side of the tire and should be lined up with the valve stem,( the heavy side of the tube).After you insert the new tube you can slightly inflate it, just enough to make it rounded this may help to keep it back from the rim when putting on the final bead.I often use large screwdrivers as tire irons they provide better leverage and the handles a better gripe,BUT I do take a grinder ,and radius the tips and remove any sharp edges.I use 6" c clamps as bead breakers, they also are used on my car/truck to push the wheel brake cylinder back to make room for new disk pads. |
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Title: Re: Tire and Tube Question Post by piedmontbuckeye on 11/27/16 at 07:02:24 766D34373631333C050 wrote:
Just an add on: Some M/C tire irons are pretty much straight but with a "duckbill" on the end and these are great, however, some are sold with a bit of a "dip" just above the flat "duckbill" that provides a help when rotating over the rim. Helps keep the tire iron from slipping up and out - making things more frustrating. If you can get this type of tire iron, maybe a little more expensive, it will pay for itself in frustration and in the middle of a tire change, eliminating frustration is worth a bunch!! Believe me, been there, done that!! |
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Title: Re: Tire and Tube Question Post by ero4444 on 11/27/16 at 10:38:25 I get you on the tire dots... I've read about Metzler 880 for years and figured that is the way to go - of course now they are discontinued - do they even make 880 for front? The 888 seems to be harder compound and worse rain performance. What's the next best for Savage, for a stickier tire? I'm a low-miler and I don't mind paying up for a stickier tire with lower life. Might just scrounge the last 880's but I don't really want to get them from Ebay. Leaning to Shinko now, bargain pricing doesn't hurt. |
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Title: Re: Tire and Tube Question Post by Kenny G on 11/27/16 at 10:45:59 I have had the Shinkos on my S40 for over a thousand miles and they are holding the road very well. I admit that I have not yet been in the rain with them. I have been in all kinds of temperatures, ranging from 34 degrees to 106 degrees. I do check the tire pressure before every ride. Kenny G |
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Title: Re: Tire and Tube Question Post by ero4444 on 12/04/16 at 15:55:10 Got Shinko 712's from Bikebandit.. I did the front tire and got it BACKWARDS. Too tired to fix it yet. Wore out my arms, two tire irons is not enough. It's kinda fun but sheesh - so outta shape. I used "Motion Pro BeadPro Forged Steel Tire Bead Breaker" - a pair of fork + spoon-like levers that can scissor the tire out the bead and the other ends are decent tire irons with smooth bend end. Need one more iron. Decided to use tire balancing and sealant liquid, instead of the beads. EDITTED LATER - had some ice cream and got a burst of energy. Man, that felt good and I got the wheel turning the right way on the bike. Looks like I need new pads and brake cleaning too . |
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Title: Re: Tire and Tube Question Post by MadSavage on 05/26/19 at 00:44:48 47504D16161616220 wrote:
I know this is an old post but us newbie savages scavenge this site. You mentioned the bead balancing and sealant liquid. From what I read you are staying with tubed tires. It is my understanding that you can not use balancing beads with a tubed tire. Has anyone have a successful experience? How has the balancing/sealant liquid worked out (if used with a tubed tire)? Thank you |
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Title: Re: Tire and Tube Question Post by Dave on 05/26/19 at 03:18:36 You can use Dyna Beads in a tube...or tubeless. http://www.innovativebalancing.com/motorcycle.htm |
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Title: Re: Tire and Tube Question Post by MadSavage on 05/28/19 at 23:11:38 Thank you for the quick response Dave. I went back to the article I read and indeed there were a lot of reaction to the "no beads with tubed tire" information. Unfortunately I can not find the page I was on previously, the main tire discussion page where the list of best tires for the Savage was posted. I ordered a set of the shinko 230 tour master to replace my rock hard tires. The rear is a 2018, ok. But the front is a 2017, two years old (can't remember the month right now) knowing that it's said bike tires shouldn't be older than 5 years old, is it normal or should I return it? |
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Title: Re: Tire and Tube Question Post by Dave on 05/29/19 at 03:26:53 72575B5F5758360 wrote:
I really like the Shinko 230 tires on the Savage - good choice! ;) Is it normal to get a tire that is 2 years past the manufacture date?....unfortunately it does occur. My 2010 Honda NT700 had a factory rear tire that was dated 2008 - so even the factory will mount a 2 year old tire on a new bike. If you bought your tire from an online retailer - they likely had the tire shipped from a "warehouse" that was close to you, and they have no idea how old the tire was they shipped to you (and the warehouse employee are probably rotating stock and shipping older tires first. Since you will likely wear out two rear tires for each front tire - your front tire is likely going to be on the bike for a long time and will likely last for 10,000 - 15,000 miles..........unless you ride enough to wear this tire out in 3 years - I would suggest you contact the seller and request a newer tire. When I ordered tires for my ST1100 from Bike Bandit the front and rear tire came from different warehouses (rear tire was a common size the front is a bit less common) and the front tire was 4 years old when it arrived. I contacted Bike Bandit and they had a newer front tire shipped from a different warehouse, and they sent me a shipping tag and arranged for the "old new" tire to be picked up at their cost. I used Dyna beads in a tubed tire before I made a rig to balance my tires, and they seemed to work fine. If you are going to mount your tires yourself and don't have any way to balance.....I guess it is fine to use them. One reason I stopped using them is that sometimes when you mount a tire.....it is badly out of balance and I like to let the air out and rotate the tire on the rim to see if I can use less weights. (Tires often have a spot on the sidewall that is the lightest part of the tire and it is mounted in alignment with the valve stem - but on a spoked wheel the heavy spot is not always at the valve stem). |
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Title: Re: Tire and Tube Question Post by MadSavage on 06/01/19 at 12:06:02 Thank you Dave for you quick and in depth response. I contacted the company, Chaparral Motorsports, about the front tire. Their response was that I could return it with a 15% restocking fee and paying $19 for shipping. Basically better off buying a new tire in three years considering the original price $59 with shipping.they shipped fast, the two tires taped together. Idk what is the shipping standard for motorcycle tires but I wasn't troubled by the 'packaging' . While doing a little research to back up my argument and to be sure I sounded technically correct I did find a few articles that say we exaggerate to demand fresh tires (produced the year of) from the middle men. Of course, someone gets the short end of the stick in the end. So I guess more choice in tires with competitive prices, or fresh tires every time is the question. I'm not unhappy with a 2017, considering I'm rolling with the original tires right now ;D :o In your case with a 4 year old (new) tire I would definitely put up a stronger fight. I was leaning towards spoke weights for the balancing, but a set is pricey. And I like the beads because they are invisible. I will indeed be doing the work myself, I'll check the rims after removing the tires, then again after mounting and see from there I guess. |
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