SuzukiSavage.com - Print Page

SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl
General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Oil change confusion
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1477671841

Message started by JIbber Jabber on 10/28/16 at 09:24:01

Title: Oil change confusion
Post by JIbber Jabber on 10/28/16 at 09:24:01

So as per the recommendation from some of you guys, I decided to do my first oil change myself. Everything went as planned until I put the oil in. I drained the oil (found the right bolt), put in a new filter (the right way, I think [ch128540]) and started the filling process. As per this forum, I put in about 2 liters, and and straightened it out but nothing was showing up in the measurement window, so I added maybe another half. I straighter the bike out, and now the oil filled the entire window, so now I'm like holy nuts!! I figured I did something wrong, went back online and read another topic on this forum and came across a similar problem. The recommendation that was given was to let it idle for a little, turn off and let cool for a few minutes, then re-check. I did just that, I checked the oil window and it was between the lines, BINGO!! Thought I had figured it all out, but then this morning (it's like 40 outside), before starting the bike, leveled it and checked again, nada window is empty, I'm like ok, let me ride to work and see what happens. Get to work, about 3-4 miles with street lights. Checked it again, now the oil fills the entire window [ch128561]. Did I put too much in? is this normal? please guide me!

Title: Re: Oil change confusion
Post by stewmills on 10/28/16 at 09:39:45

Most will tell you that after you change the oil and let the engine cycle and cool off, that with the bike vertical, the oil level should be between the lines. The reason you let it run for a minute and recheck it is so it refills the new filter and all cavities that were drained by the change.

Others will tell you that on a cool bike that is on level ground on the sidestand (leaning left), you should barely be able to see the oil peeking into the bottom edge of the window, which converts to probably just a hair above the High mark when the bike is upright, which is perfectly ok.

If you see NO oil in the window when the bike is cool and standing vertical, it's too low. If you see only oil when the bike is vertical, you have too much.

Lastly, if your oil was low and then later it is randomly super high, smell your oil as you may have a sticky float and fuel leaking into your crankcase!

Title: Re: Oil change confusion
Post by Gary_in_NJ on 10/28/16 at 09:44:59

It's all a matter of perspective.

When you say you leveled the bike, were you on the bike at the time? As you leaned over to the right to view the window, did the bike tilt to the left in the process? If you were off the bike was someone holding it for you?

The bike holds two quarts of oil, if you added two quarts, then it's in there. I'd suggest draining the oil you have in there (2-1/2 quarts give or take) and adding two quarts. Straighten the bike until the oil is between the lines on the site window - then remember the angle it's at so you are checking the same every time.

Title: Re: Oil change confusion
Post by Struch on 10/28/16 at 09:47:12

yes Stew is wright but this is the guide check it if you didi it like this you fine
http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1099572561/7#7
Best regard

Title: Re: Oil change confusion
Post by HAPPYDAN on 10/28/16 at 10:00:47

I found the window to be confusing, also. Other bike guys told me to get an extendable inspection mirror and use that while sitting upright on the bike with a cold engine. New oil is almost transparent, but after the initial run-in should show correctly. Clean the little window thoroughly before checking. Or you can just try to bend way over while trying to hold it upright, or get a pal to hold it up while you crawl around on the floor trying to read it.

Title: Re: Oil change confusion
Post by JIbber Jabber on 10/28/16 at 10:01:48

7A5D5B5C4A41290 wrote:

yes Stew is wright but this is the guide check it if you didi it like this you fine
http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1099572561/7#7
Best regard

I read that forum before I did the change. I leveled the bike with me holding it, so yeah maybe it wasn't really leveled. I will have someone help me and try to find a leveled surface and check again.

I really hope I don't have to do it again [ch128546]

Title: Re: Oil change confusion
Post by Ruttly on 10/28/16 at 10:04:30

JOG

Title: Re: Oil change confusion
Post by verslagen1 on 10/28/16 at 10:38:16

Before you drive yourself nuts (and us too) holding the bike upright or not will affect the oil level.
Straighten the front wheel, this will affect the balance of the bike.
Hold the bike upright and balance it, now get off of it.
You can easily feel if the bike is balanced now as it will get harder to hold up if its now.
Take a look at your kickstand and find a brick, a block of wood, something that'll fit under it and allow it to lean over just enough to keep it from falling over.
When ever you check the oil lever slide that block under the kickstand and you'll get it right every time.

if that's not good enough for you... you got OCD.
get a magnetic level and put it on the frame and level it to the bubble.
and let someone know when you are working on the bike and if they don't hear from you in a couple of hours to come check on you cause you could be pinned under the bike in some awkward position.

As far as being overfull, it has to be really overfull to cause harm.
If you're OCD, remove the Timing port and some oil will leak out.
It should leak out to the right level... give or take a mile.
If it takes 6 qts to get it right, see a doctor.

Title: Re: Oil change confusion
Post by Steve H on 10/28/16 at 11:06:31

Clymer says 1.9 qts for oil change. 2.1 for oil & filter change. 2.5 qts. for overhaul(completely empty engine).

Title: Re: Oil change confusion
Post by norm92de on 10/28/16 at 12:08:56

I recently changed the oil in my bike and it took 2.25 quarts US. A little more than the manual says. It was about the same last time.

I also use a method like Versy's to check the oil to get it repeatable.

Title: Re: Oil change confusion
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 10/28/16 at 22:33:06

133435352D38410 wrote:

JOG

Whut, Dude? I've been goin Awww Day, finally sitting down at 12:30 a.m....
The clutch cable that was gonna Be here Tuesday, came in today. The stock cable didn't make 5,000 miles. The plastic bushing on the Too Short pewter slug is gonna do the same thing. I'm gonna hafta do some work on the thing before I install it..

You guys have it.. Why the oil isn't in the window, IDK,
If the window is full, then there is no line to see.

IDK how much oil was put in, but I would be looking for bubbles in the oil if it was much more than recommended.

Brand new oil with the sun shining on the window is hard to see.

Title: Re: Oil change confusion
Post by sauvage on 11/05/16 at 15:54:29

4A5D5C545D4F4108080F380 wrote:

snip

Suzuki recommend 3 minutes warm up then 3 minutes standing before checking. This is of course a pain to do regularly. I keep an eye on it cold after standing all night because it's easy and quick meaning you'll do it often, it's just a matter of knowing what the level should be under those conditions. I have found that if the level of the oil is correct then checking it cold you will discover that the oil level should be just at or just barely over the top of the sight glass. https://youtu.be/Hu-iBBtdYzg

Title: Re: Oil change confusion
Post by Oldfeller on 11/08/16 at 18:35:54

A bit or two that you have all missed is that oil EXPANDS some when it it at operating temperature. Some oils expand more than others .....

Next item you have all missed is that an appreciable amount of oil goes up into the gallery system and into the clutch when the engine is running.

If you would like to see your "overfill" simply disappear, simply start the engine rev it lightly and then let it run while you look.

Final test on the side stand method has always been to let the bike idle when warm while holding it upright & vertical on a level place and watching the window -- if it stays solid black it really is overfilled. If it has any foamy partial clear air space at all, then you are fine. This takes 2 people and a flashlight and some patience to perform this check.

Too many shock mods, added puck stuff put on to the kickstands, and lots of various other mods out there require the use of this final analysis method to OK your chosen fill level and method.

Title: Re: Oil change confusion
Post by Rodger on 11/09/16 at 06:20:15

Recently, I did the 600-mile break-in maintenance on my S40, per the table in the Owner's Manual.

After a 10-minute warm-up ride, drained oil and changed the oil filter. Lightly coated both filter O-rings with petroleum jelly ( a little bit in the outer O-ring groove to hold it in place while reinstalling the filter cover). Straddled the bike, held it upright to drain the oil from the left, "downhill" side of the engine . Reinstalled drain plug & put a 3" paver brick under the side stand. Added Dino Rotella with Redline until I could see the level was just over the bottom line of the window. Started it, upright, & idled for a couple minutes, then let it sit for 3 minutes. Added oil until the curve (harking back to high school chemistry class, the "meniscus") of the oil level was just below the upper line, verified with an inspection mirror.

The "take away" of all this? It took about 2.25 quarts, and when checking with inspection mirror after a 30+ minute ride, the level is dead on.

[Let the OCD, "anal-retentive" jibes ensue. In my defense, I took special care since this was the First Time. ;) ]

BTW, KN-137 oil filters on Amazon are $5.17 each, ss an add-on item, free shipping, about 1/2 parts store price.

Title: Re: Oil change confusion
Post by Kris01 on 11/09/16 at 18:04:25