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Message started by cheapnewb24 on 09/02/16 at 12:31:25

Title: My first ride.... and the clutch drags.
Post by cheapnewb24 on 09/02/16 at 12:31:25

Well, the title is self-explanatory. I got it up and running today and put it on the road. The clutch drags even when warm, and it's tough finding neutral. Tough call I'll have enough adjustment to get the drag out of it.

What do you think? Break in? Rod length? Something else?

Title: Re: My first ride.... and the clutch drags.
Post by verslagen1 on 09/02/16 at 12:50:53

You're asking like I can look over your shoulder and see something obvious.

Tell me,
how far did the rod stick out before you put the cover on.
Where's the throw out lever on the case marks when you take up the slack.
How much gap do you have at the clutch lever.

Title: Re: My first ride.... and the clutch drags.
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 09/02/16 at 16:09:26

Title: Re: My first ride.... and the clutch drags.
Post by cheapnewb24 on 09/02/16 at 19:54:04

203F393E23241525152D3F33784A0 wrote:

I'm not familiar with a clutch that has too short of a rod in it.
I'm gonna be shocked if the adjustment at the lever is too loose.

I'm betting it's either the installation on the pedestal down on the motor or an assembly error in the clutch.

First,
Grab the clutch arm on the motor and see how much you can move it before it hits something.
How much do you have to move the lever before you feel the load of the clutch?

Alright... I'm aware of the lever thing. I reach down and wiggle it. Now, with the cable attached, it has a lot less freeplay than without. I didn't go through the trouble of disconnecting the cable today. The clutch arm actually seems to set slightly lower than it used to when it reaches the end of its freeplay. It's still within range last I checked. Before, the clutch basket was loose and it had a thinner gasket. If there was a massive amount of freeplay in the cable, the solution would be easy. I don't think it's that easy. If I try to adjust the drag out of it, there won't be enough free play left. I read that I should have 1/8 inch gap between lever and perch. It used to disengage VERY well. Now it doesn't.

And, yes, as noted above, see where you are with the marks on the case,
Then, where the cable housing is mounted on the engine, if the nuts are allowing the cable housing to be as far into the mount as possible, that is not right.
You're gonna have to know How to set it up. I can't explain it.

C'mon Justin, Don't ya think if it were just a simple cable adjustment, I would have figured it out by now? Do you think I'm that dumb?

Sorry... Just sayin' :-/

This is something else I think.

Title: Re: My first ride.... and the clutch drags.
Post by cheapnewb24 on 09/02/16 at 20:07:28

And, in other news,

I rode it to work today, and when I got back, I was worried. I heard some noise... maybe valve train noise???

There's a new hole in the muffler, and when I'm going at high speed, it really seems to make a racket... sounding eerily like mechanical noise... unless it's mechanical noise. :-/

Dad thought it sounded the same as it always has, but I got worried that maybe the valves were noisy, and I just adjusted them slightly tighter than they were. I worried that maybe the adjusters stripped or came loose or the top end got starved of oil or something else really bad. :-/

These videos were not taken immediately after coming home, but after a little while, so the engine cooled a little.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2SI0ZYKi2c&feature=youtu.be
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2SI0ZYKi2c&feature=youtu.be[/media]

I noticed just then that pulling the clutch in neutral actually puts a slight load on the engine. Normal? Or is something not quite right?

(Never mind the end... I was just putting up the bike).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bL_08cddE14&feature=youtu.be
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bL_08cddE14&feature=youtu.be[/media]

Listen with some good earphones or something. I know my laptop speakers suck.

I listened to the videos... It makes me wonder if my mind isn't just playing tricks on me. It was dark, and the oil looked ugly and cloudy in the light of a flashlight. Maybe it's just an illusion from the light source. It's got fresh Rotella in it with a cap or two of ZDDP MAXX.

I read that Savages tend to clatter when warm. Maybe it's just mind tricks? It didn't seem to do this till I got back from my highway commute. I don't know... :-/

It always seemed to run differently after the repair. :-/

Title: Re: My first ride.... and the clutch drags.
Post by KennyG on 09/02/16 at 20:46:52

ClusterBabble,

Pull the chin strap on your helmet tighter and go for a ride.

Kenny G
:-/

Title: Re: My first ride.... and the clutch drags.
Post by stewmills on 09/02/16 at 21:02:48

Maybe it never ran right before and what you are hearing now is a good running, properly tuned bike??????

Different doesn't necessarily equal bad.

Title: Re: My first ride.... and the clutch drags.
Post by Kris01 on 09/02/16 at 21:20:32

78737E7A6B757E6C79292F1B0 wrote:

I noticed just then that pulling the clutch in neutral actually puts a slight load on the engine. Normal? Or is something not quite right?

Think about what your clutch does. Pulling the lever disengages the engine from the transmission. Something ain't quite right!

Title: Re: My first ride.... and the clutch drags.
Post by cheapnewb24 on 09/03/16 at 08:12:29

That o-ring that turns (or stays stationary) with the release bearing and throwout rod... Could it have slipped out of place during installation, causing some drag and loss of lube pressure to the clutch plates?

Could a little drag from the throwout be normal? :-?

Anybody have their valves come loose after adjusting them?

Title: Re: My first ride.... and the clutch drags.
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 09/03/16 at 09:13:01

Anybody have their valves come loose after adjusting them?

Never been reported that I know of.

It's a concern I had..

Title: Trouble
Post by cheapnewb24 on 09/03/16 at 11:36:27

Well... I'm screwed. Or am I?

Checked the valves, and the clearance was over double the allowed clearance on the exhaust. If I recall, I could slip in at least .011 inch. That's .007 over where I put it. The intake increased as well, but not as much... maybe a few thousandths. I don't remember whether the .006 went in or the .008.

The only thing I can think of would be that I adjusted it on the exhaust stroke by mistake, and it was already friggin' loose, so it fooled me into thinking it was in the right place. However, I tried to gauge it on the exhaust stroke, and the results didn't give me much confidence.

Before I put the engine in the frame, it appeared to be slightly out of spec, at .005-.007, at the most. I brought them all to .004. Now they're a mess.

If I had done it on the exhaust stroke and loosened it, the problem would be simple. That's the common screw up, I reckon. But I didn't: I actually tightened the clearances. :-/

The oil color is unsettling. It has a semi-opaque look like very fine graphite or metal. Can't say for sure... I know Rotella is dark, but after 50 miles, it turned into this mess.

Sorry it's hard to see anything from the oil video. I may have to make another one.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zY55fSQkRVM&feature=youtu.be
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zY55fSQkRVM&feature=youtu.be[/media]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nJbzc8Kgw-w&feature=youtu.be
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nJbzc8Kgw-w&feature=youtu.be[/media]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LSUcfA8F4Es&feature=youtu.be
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LSUcfA8F4Es&feature=youtu.be[/media]

Title: Re: My first ride.... and the clutch drags.
Post by cheapnewb24 on 09/03/16 at 12:17:24

Checking to make sure there's nothing wrong with that.

Title: Re: My first ride.... and the clutch drags.
Post by cheapnewb24 on 09/03/16 at 12:20:10

Title: Re: My first ride.... and the clutch drags.
Post by cheapnewb24 on 09/03/16 at 12:23:04

Well... Have I smoked my top end?

Maybe if I was smart, I could have filled the oil through the valve cover instead of through the normal way. Maybe that would have saved it.

Title: Re: My first ride.... and the clutch drags.
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 09/03/16 at 12:27:56

ment, I would have figured it out by now? Do you think I'm that dumb?

Why would I Ever question your abilities? Are you Dumb? No, I have read some things you've said. BETWEEN those lucid moments, however, you can misfire something awful..
IF the adjustments changed on their own, they would not be snugged with the jam nut.
Get it on compression, see the mark on the crank?
Rotate the nut CCW, or, Botward, or Left.
If you screw up, go around, not CW, or JoGward, or Right.

Title: Re: My first ride.... and the clutch drags.
Post by cheapnewb24 on 09/03/16 at 12:37:18

I went by the timing marks on the crank. I go mostly left, but sometimes a little right. The gears are noisy turned backwards, as if the gears were ground only to be turned one way. :-?

How could it possibly be that loose in any crank position? Unless I screwed up before somehow... Nah... Doesn't make sense. I tightened it by only a couple thousandths. It should not have changed. Period.

What could happen if turned it backwards, besides the unlikely event that crank bolt comes loose? I seem to remember reading in Versy's guide that it was okay to turn it backwards a little. :-?

I'm gonna have to get ready for work now.

Title: Re: My first ride.... and the clutch drags.
Post by cheapnewb24 on 09/03/16 at 12:46:12

7B646265787F4E7E4E76646823110 wrote:

ment, I would have figured it out by now? Do you think I'm that dumb?

Why would I Ever question your abilities? Are you Dumb? No, I have read some things you've said. BETWEEN those lucid moments, however, you can misfire something awful..
IF the adjustments changed on their own, they would not be snugged with the jam nut. Unless I burned up the cam/rockers.
Get it on compression, see the mark on the crank?
Rotate the nut CCW, or, Botward, or Left.
If you screw up, go around, not CW, or JoGward, or Right.

Title: Re: My first ride.... and the clutch drags.
Post by cheapnewb24 on 09/03/16 at 12:47:37

Here's another oil video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DHLqz4haiws&feature=youtu.be
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DHLqz4haiws&feature=youtu.be[/media]

Title: Re: My first ride.... and the clutch drags.
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 09/03/16 at 12:48:22

Maybe someone else isn't tired of this. I'm sure sick of it.

I'm gonna say this, and you're gonna have to figure it out.

I told you to turn the motor the way IT turns.
Don't Don't Don't go the other way more than a few degrees, but for you, best not At ALL.
The crank turns twice , compression at tdc, exhaust at tdc, lines line up with each.
Get it on compression, line up the marks, adjust your valves.

Title: Re: My first ride.... and the clutch drags.
Post by cheapnewb24 on 09/03/16 at 13:41:33

The thing is... It's tough telling which way the engine turns because the crank is not visible while the engine is running.

But... Yes... I understand... No more turning backwards. Not a bit... I got it.

Doubt that's gonna fix anything... but... that's what I'll do, when I go to turn it anymore.

Title: Re: My first ride.... and the clutch drags.
Post by verslagen1 on 09/03/16 at 13:44:57

3C373A3E2F313A283D6D6B5F0 wrote:

I seem to remember reading in Versy's guide that it was okay to turn it backwards a little. :-?

I guess cause it doesn't say explicitly not to do that it's ok?

475443425D5056545F00310 wrote:

Remove the timing port cover.
http://www.savageriders.com/verslagen/ValveAdj/DSCN0487.JPG

It's preferred to use a 17 mm socket with a breaker bar and turn the flywheel COUNTER CLOCKWISE. The Clymer manual has this wrong! It says to go clock wise! NO! You want to turn the flywheel in the same direction the wheels turn while going forward.

http://www.savageriders.com/verslagen/ValveAdj/timing_marks.jpg
Turn the flywheel around several times while watching the rocker arms and the adjusting screw go up and down to get a feel for what's going on. You will be at TDC on the compression stroke when both sets of rocker arms with the adjusting screws are down. The lobes on the cam will be down, but you can't see this.
The piston is at max height, use the screw driver or plastic straw in the spark plug hole to determine this. There should be a little play in the rocker arms now.
Check that the timing marks on the flywheel and the crank case more or less line up.
Don't be afraid to keep turning the flywheel counter clockwise until you get the hang of it and are confident that you are at TDC on the COMPRESSION STROKE.
NOTE: If you do not have a 17mm socket with a breaker bar, there are 2 other methods:
You can use a 17 mm deep socket w/a rachet, but this is tricky. Due to inertia, the ratchet tends to let the flywheel spin past where you want it to be. That's the way ratchets work; they are free to spin in one direction.
Put the bike in a high gear and push it forward... while watching the rocker arms and timing port. Or jack up the rear wheel and spin it in the forward direction.

Now we can actually measure the valve clearance and adjust it if necessary.

Title: Re: My first ride.... and the clutch drags.
Post by cheapnewb24 on 09/03/16 at 13:49:51

Oops....

Can turning it backwards throw off the adjustment?

Title: Re: My first ride.... and the clutch drags.
Post by cheapnewb24 on 09/03/16 at 13:52:12

Justin, I was not worried so much about adjusting the valves. I've been worried about why I'm having to adjust the valves.

Title: Re: My first ride.... and the clutch drags.
Post by verslagen1 on 09/03/16 at 14:01:16

505B5652435D5644510107330 wrote:

Oops....

Can turning it backwards throw off the adjustment?

I thought you said you were OCD?

Title: Re: My first ride.... and the clutch drags.
Post by gizzo on 09/03/16 at 14:06:25

Maybe you f...ed up when you put the clutch in, lost the oil pump drive pin, that's somehow jamming the clutch and run the top end dry, making the oil sparkly and flogging the cam lobes off, giving you the extra valve clearance.

Title: Re: My first ride.... and the clutch drags.
Post by Gary_in_NJ on 09/03/16 at 15:26:03

Cheap,

You really, really shouldn't be working on your motorcycle. You poor mechanical skills and poor judgement could cost you your life. Your threads are quite painful to read. I implore you to find a local mechanic before you wind up in the hospital or worse.

Title: Re: My first ride.... and the clutch drags.
Post by cheapnewb24 on 09/03/16 at 17:23:38

Remember when I was worried about the clutch lever position? Well, I, with my Dad's help, pulled the cover and took the back off and checked it. The oil pump drive should be okay. I used the same lock washer a second time, bending it in two new places.

I haven't checked it since I rode it, though....

Title: Re: My first ride.... and the clutch drags.
Post by cheapnewb24 on 09/03/16 at 17:31:23

It just hit me... I'm pretty confident the drive pin was engaged, but maybe it fell out if it wasn't engaged far enough. :-?

Remember I said I pulled the cover and went over it a second time. The position of the gears (I mean forward and backward from each other) wasn't significantly different the second time.

Title: Re: My first ride.... and the clutch drags.
Post by cheapnewb24 on 09/03/16 at 17:40:10

...Doubtful :-/

Title: Re: My first ride.... and the clutch drags.
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 09/03/16 at 18:03:51

Do you have a Suzuki maintenance manual or the Clymers?

If Clymers, there are mistakes in it.
If Suzuki, you're good to go.
If neither, you're not in a good place.
There's a link to a PDF manual.
You NEED a manual
We NEED you to have one

Title: Re: My first ride.... and the clutch drags.
Post by gizzo on 09/03/16 at 18:07:15

Well, it was just a thought. Thinking about it, if the pump wasn't working at all, the shavings from the camshaft should still be up there, not polluting the oil. even so, the cam chopping out is my tip for the valve clearances opening up so quickly. Maybe some gasket material restricting the oil pickup, who knows? I'm sure you'll confess when you find the problem. we'd love to know.

Title: Re: My first ride.... and the clutch drags.
Post by cheapnewb24 on 09/03/16 at 19:04:19

Looks like I wasn't the first to get the idea of dumping oil into the top end... but too late for me. I didn't tear down the top end, but with so much handling of the engine, the top end could have been a little too dry. I turned it over a few times without spark to prime it. Maybe it wasn't enough. The battery was low, and Dad was there and talked like I should go ahead and crank it.

0221292B282121283F4D0 wrote:

http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/rod1.JPG

I made my 1mm longer rod from 1/4 inch drill rod that I had on hand. There is enough clearance in the clutch hole to readily accommodate the larger size.

======================

Note from the FUTURE again .... The standard hardware drill rod material is too soft (wears too easily on the ends) and it cannot be hardened in a reliable fashion that will not get hot in use and turn blue and resoften on you.

Standard drill rod will not work, period. Go get you some full hardened 6mm real parts from Suzuki, or if you are stubborn like me go get a quarter inch diameter piece of M-2 HHS lathe tool bit material and make your push rod out of something that WILL NOT wear out or heat soften under any circumstances.

======================

http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/short_rod.JPG

This is the shorter rod installed, it moves the lever in the wrong direction removing all the adjustment travel and rendering the clutch "worn out". Shorter is incorrect, the cutch rods must be made LONGER.

http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/long_rod.JPG

Here is the 1mm longer rod, suddenly the same 13,000 mile old clutch pack is "new" again with all of the adjustment travel available again. Longer is the correct direction and 1mm step lengths are obviously the correct stepping distance. And now the "which way does it go?" question is finally answered.

=============

http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/bit_trick.JPG

Installation of a Slavy tip on the factory cam chain adjuster showing the drill bit butt method to hold the spring tension back while putting the shoulder bolt in place. I used locktite on this fastener as I didn't want it coming loose due to vibration over time.

http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/paper_gasket.JPG

$0.88/5 hand cut paper gasket going in. The stock Suzuki side cover gasket costs $17.00 plus shipping, so there is a thread on how to replace it with a hand cut paper gasket. Read the notes at the start and end of the thread, use of the black silicone gasket maker over both sides of the paper gasket (covering the inside and outside edges thoroughly) is recommended after having some weepage troubles at the oil gallery area with the bare paper gasket. You need to "rubberize" the gasket with gasket maker, let it harden, then install it with a thin wet wipe of gasket maker in the oil gallery area to provide a maximum durable oil pressure proof seal.

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1256595298

http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/Torque1.JPG

You need to torque your gasket covers to keep the force even and to hold it down to the appropriate levels. I think most leaks in this area are from uneven/too much pressure crushing and pinching the gasket and warping the cover. There is a $3.95 torque tool mentioned in the thread above, so having no little bitty torque wrench shouldn't be a show stopper to you.

http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/baggie_trick.JPG

While I was waiting through the pull downs on the cover, I also did the baggie trick to heavy gear oil lube my clutch cable. I also pulled the drain plug on the engine to make sure I didn't have any solvent contamination in the sump from all the cleaning & spraying.
(I did, a half cup of thin runny oily stuff came out on the floor)

Plan to change your oil after the first half hour of run time after a major rebuild as you have used solvents and there are tiny bits of gasket trash and some assembly lubes that will be contaminating that oil. Expect some clutch slippage if you sprayed solvents anywhere near the clutch pack (you changed the oil viscosity inside the clutch) which will heal itself in the first day or so of riding

=====================

Time to put the oil in place. I am using Rotella T dino white jug oil for the first few oil changes as they are very quickly done to get all contaminants out of the engine.

How you put the oil into the engine after a top end teardown is important. You put it in through the valve covers, not the fill screw cap hole.

http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/front9.JPG

Put a half quart in VERY QUICKLY into the front cover. Goal is to flood the area and raise the oil level right up to the bottom lip of the cover. This floods the valve springs, valve stem and stem seal with oil.

http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/back6.JPG

Put all the rest of the oil in the back cover, once again pouring it VERY QUICKLY to raise the oil level right up to the lower lip of the recess. This floods the valve springs, valve stem and stem seal with oil AND IT FILLS UP THE CAM LOBE BATHTUB AREA.

You will use more than 2 quarts of oil. Go high in the sight glass as you have lots of galleries and oil passages to fill up once you crank the engine over.

STOP AND VERIFY THERE ARE NO GRITS OF SAND ANYWHERE AROUND THE HEAD RECESS AREAS!! THIS INCLUDES THE HIDY HOLE BEHIND THE SPARK PLUG!! You are getting ready to huff and puff out the park plug hole and you don't want to blow around and then suck up any sand grits down inside your cylinder !!!

Note: put the spark plug into the rubber boot and ground it against a metal surface and then spray a little WD40 into your spark plug hole to top end lubricate your cylinder walls, rings and piston skirt. Since stuff likes to move, try lightly restraining your plug against the steel jacket of the compression release with a clamp or a set of vice grips lightly applied (compression release is a good ground, very convenient to be able to see the spark, etc.)

You carefully maintain a normal spark plug ground condition to keep from stressing your ignition electronics -- this is important because if you kill an ignitor (black box) it costs triple digit money to get a new one.

Then crank your engine over with the starter for several 5-6 second bursts. Give it 10 minutes between bursts for your starter motor to cool back down a bit then do it again. The oil level in the sight glass should drop down about a quarter of a glass. This "missing volume" will go to fill your oil galleries back up and get the oil flow reestablished back up to the head without stressing any dry parts like actually starting the engine would do.

It also gives you a chance to spot any cover oil leaks before you finish putting the bike back together -- saves time in case of a repair need.

=============

Crank up report:

Started right up, idled just fine. A little extra noise from the top end (Web Cam wants an extra thou of valve clearance on their hot cam set up). Going at it easy right now so there is no overall performance report to give quite yet.

Old bottom end torque is still there, but it is not the same, there is a mid range surge towards the top end that was not there before. Where you went flat before, you now have a slight second stage "pickup".

Clutch pack hasn't settled in from all the fiddling I did, plus all the solvents and other assembly lubes floating around in the oil -- I need to do an oil change and see if I can get the clutch calmed down some.

There were no oil leaks at head or side cover -- all is good on that front.

Title: Re: My first ride.... and the clutch drags.
Post by cheapnewb24 on 09/03/16 at 19:13:07

Which usually goes first, rockers, or cam? Both? I reckon cams are case hardened and are unusable once worn past their hard skin. What about the rockers? Can they take a beating and keep on ticking?

Do ya think I can just take a look and see what's torn up and maybe put it back and ride it? Or will it continue to wear down?

I'll have to inspect the situation in order to really know, but it wouldn't hurt to get some ideas floating around.

Title: Re: My first ride.... and the clutch drags.
Post by cheapnewb24 on 09/03/16 at 19:20:05

A quick glance at this thread is not very encouraging. http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1268653293

05262E2C2F26262F384A0 wrote:

Address is sent, now I need to go ahead and get the welding rod on the way ....

I would think our tappets are a case hardened job as it seems when you go through the case wear is pretty drastic past that point.

Some of these rods are relatively heat proof materials and the "case" will be pretty thick, so that shouldn't happen again.

Might eat the cam lobes off instead -- but Lancer can recover that with a hotter cam profile so that might not be a totally bad thing as your money gets you something better.

Dad keeps telling me I should trade it. ::) :-/

Title: Re: My first ride.... and the clutch drags.
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 09/03/16 at 19:34:12

Get something that has a warranty.

Title: Re: My first ride.... and the clutch drags.
Post by cheapnewb24 on 09/03/16 at 20:59:48

Another thing... When I first cranked it, it was on the side stand. It took a few seconds to realize and pick it up. I wonder...

Title: What to do?
Post by cheapnewb24 on 09/05/16 at 08:19:23

This whole thing has been disheartening, to be short.

Which is a better option?

A. Pull the valve cover and inspect. Possibly pull the cam for inspection. :-/

B. Adjust valves, change oil a couple times, ride, and monitor valve clearance.

I don't have a valve cover gasket handy, and I don't have a micrometer. I could possibly buy one and make the other pretty quickly. :-/ Would I need to pull the cam in order to inspect it?

I don't want to risk catastrophic damage. Knowing what's going on in there would be nice, but it's a bit of trouble.

If it's just a little bit of inconsequential rocker wear, it may not be worth taking off the covers.

Title: Re: My first ride.... and the clutch drags.
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 09/05/16 at 08:59:27

I'd drain the oil in a CLEAN container and run a magnet through it and see if you have an inordinate amount of ferrous shavings.
Look for indicators of wear before you hunt where it's worn.
The valve cover does not need a new gasket. It's an oring arrangement. Haven't you been there? Why do you not know that?

TDC compression
Slack in both rockers.

TDC exhaust
Not sure about where the lobe is on that end of the cam,but it's Not down yet.
So, if you set the lash on TDC exhaust you would screw up the adjustments. The intake is coming up on the cam, what the overlap is, IDK. I'm expecting you have all four valves loosely adjusted..
Don't go digging into it. It's not time yet. I doubt it's hurt up top.
Did you have the clutch pack out?

Title: Re: My first ride.... and the clutch drags.
Post by verslagen1 on 09/05/16 at 09:01:27

I assume he's talking about the head cover... RTV

Title: Re: My first ride.... and the clutch drags.
Post by cheapnewb24 on 09/05/16 at 09:07:45

405344455A5751535807360 wrote:

I assume he's talking about the head cover... RTV

Yep... Head cover

Title: Re: My first ride.... and the clutch drags.
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 09/05/16 at 09:08:11

Nothing needs taken apart .. just adjust the valves, By The Book.

Unless the oil is carrying the missing piece s of parts.

Title: Re: My first ride.... and the clutch drags.
Post by cheapnewb24 on 09/05/16 at 09:18:58

342B2D2A3730013101392B276C5E0 wrote:

When I inspected it the day of those videos above (Saturday), I found that it's pretty obvious about the exhaust stroke if you move the crank, and watch the timing marks and rocker move. The point at which the exhaust rocker settles is past TDC.

I haven't dug into it yet. When I first adjusted it many days ago, I set all to .004. They're all out of spec now, especially the exhaust. The exhaust is at least .011, if I remember. The intake is less severe. I don't have them adjusted right now. I took one loose though, as seen in the pics. I put it back loosely.

Title: Re: My first ride.... and the clutch drags.
Post by cheapnewb24 on 09/05/16 at 09:20:24

342B2D2A3730013101392B276C5E0 wrote:

Nothing needs taken apart .. just adjust the valves, By The Book.

Okay.

Title: Re: My first ride.... and the clutch drags.
Post by verslagen1 on 09/05/16 at 09:25:41

to check for the pin/oil gear, check oil pressure at the forward plug in the case. You'll need an adapter.

http://www.savageriders.com/verslagen/images/Oil%20flow.jpg

730A6A46444C16270 wrote:

The test port plug is a 14mm bolt. Interesting, it's the same thread as many spark plugs. Since I'm not in europe and have a limit selection of metric adapters, I made an adapter.

Went to Auto-Zone and got a 14 mm "Spark Plug Non-Fouler" , Took an old spark plug from a lawnmower and took out the ceramic. Drilled it and tapped to 1/8" NPT (included a little griding to size it better). Then used a "1/8" npt to barbed" fitting and ran a tube to the gauge. I probably could have skipped the "Spark Plug Non-Fouler" but I wanted a good grip for my socket. Used a good deal of hi temp sealer. Still have a tiny leak.

I think if I had access to a welder, I would have capped the "Spark Plug Non-Fouler" and dirlled and tapped that. Less joints so less chance of leaking.

Do you want pictures?

TMack

ADDITION: Got the gauge on Flea-bay.

1960002C2E267C4D0 wrote:

Smokin Blue,
Thanks. Your Earl's suggestion gave me the right words to Yahoo. Found the below site. Just have to go measure the old plug to see if it/s M14-1.25.

http://www.egauges.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=R7966

Also, took some pict's. Just have to get them up on the webserver.

TMack

Here's a little warning, these adapters are for checking the oil pressure, then remove them before riding.
They are not safe for prolonged use.

Title: Re: My first ride.... and the clutch drags.
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 09/05/16 at 10:37:33

Yeah, you better have a look at the oil pump drive,, that has killed a couple. Up top, I wouldn't be taking stuff apart yet.

Title: Re: My first ride.... and the clutch drags.
Post by cheapnewb24 on 09/05/16 at 10:54:40

With all this trouble I'm considering adding another bike to the collection. https://tricities.craigslist.org/mcy/5737892707.html

At least this way, I'll have something to ride, and maybe Dad will have one too with all the trouble we've had out of that Shadow.

Found a ninja 250 for 500, but it needed carb work. :-/

Title: Re: My first ride.... and the clutch drags.
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 09/05/16 at 11:00:36

Dude, buy something that runs. Something that not only runs, but runs well enough that you don't need to mess with it.
Learn on the Savage, hopefully, by the time your next bike needs anything you'll be more qualified.