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Message started by nablats on 08/24/16 at 13:31:04

Title: header pipe studs
Post by nablats on 08/24/16 at 13:31:04

I sheared the studs which screw into the cylinder barrel, is there anything to help with stud extraction?

Title: Re: header pipe studs
Post by verslagen1 on 08/24/16 at 14:54:21

If you've never done this before, I suggest you find a machinist. We had another guy do the same thing and totally screw it up.

Title: Re: header pipe studs
Post by Armen on 08/24/16 at 15:06:03

A lot depends on where the break is on the stud. Is it above or below the surface?
DON'T USE EZ OUTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Title: Re: header pipe studs
Post by cheapnewb24 on 08/25/16 at 06:32:45

I was that guy. ::) http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1468203484

Yeah... EZ-OUTs are stupid. ;D

There was another guy that came after me, and he ran into the exact same problem. He broke an EZ-OUT in there as well like I did. He managed to deal with it without needing professional help. Maybe my thread helped? He sure did mention it. :-?

It cost me $100 to have that bolt professionally removed (machinist-- we mounted the whole engine under the milling machine).

You may be able to remove it yourself if you are very careful and very patient. DO NOT GET UPSET, DO NOT GET IMPATIENT. If you do, you may as well have it hired done before you make a mess like I did.

No promises. :-/ You may try and mess up and end up having to pay for it anyway in the end. If you try though, you can say you tried. ;)

And, for goodness sakes... Don't try to blow it out with a torch! Heating... maybe... No cutting. You gotta drill it out. Left-hand drill bits might be advantageous.

Title: Re: header pipe studs
Post by cheapnewb24 on 08/25/16 at 06:38:23

232C2F212C393E4D0 wrote:

I sheared the studs which screw into the cylinder barrel, is there anything to help with stud extraction?

They shouldn't be "studs." They should be chrome bolts :-?

Hey Armen, Did you say no ez-outs 'cause of what I did or because of previous experience? Interesting. You sure have been knowledgeable. I'm impressed. :)

Title: Re: header pipe studs
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 08/25/16 at 07:40:41

I explained the mechanics of using EZouts. Once the bolt is drilled out, inserting the EZout presses the thin remaining material Out, binding it up, making it impossible to get out.
Drill small, drill larger until you can tap it out.
The worst EZouts are the square, tapered ones.
Snap On makes the only ones I have Any use for, and even They are lousy, at best.
Carbide rods with ridges and a nut that engages the ridges.

Ooopsies,, Rigid..

https://www.plumbersstock.com/ridgid-35585-extractor-set-10-screw.html?gclid=CjwKEAjwrvq9BRD5gLyrufTqg0YSJACcuF81suVNOftPpSWlGlH072p4HvuIfkfcO7kAfItJgW6OrhoCkpnw_wcB

And for That$ you can pay a lot of your bill.

Title: Re: header pipe studs
Post by nablats on 08/25/16 at 22:47:48

thanks lads, my friend who is doing the job uses `tineserts`rather than helicoils, they are a threaded `sleeve` he reckons way better job

Title: Re: header pipe studs
Post by gizzo on 08/26/16 at 02:49:33

Time Serts are good.

Title: Re: header pipe studs
Post by Armen on 08/26/16 at 03:04:25

Cheapnewb,
Look at Justin's explanation. That pretty much sums it up.
If an 8mm stud broke off trying to unscrew it, drilling a smaller than 8mm hole in it and installing a smaller than 8mm thingie in it and trying to turn the whole mess often leads to a broken EZ Out. And the EZ Out is brutally hard to drill into.
Lots of better ways to remove the stud.
Yes, lots of bad experiences with them.

PS. I like Time Serts, but they require a much bigger hole to be drilled.