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/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Tires /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1470451940 Message started by Doc on 08/05/16 at 19:52:20 |
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Title: Tires Post by Doc on 08/05/16 at 19:52:20 I need new tires, front and rear for my 2007. Found some at the correct size from Bike Bandit, but they're tubeless. Can these be used(with a tube) or do I need to keep looking for the proper sized tubed tire? |
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Title: Re: Tires Post by Kris01 on 08/05/16 at 19:54:51 We NEED tubes. You can run a tubeless tire as long as you use a tube with it. |
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Title: Re: Tires Post by justin_o_guy2 on 08/05/16 at 21:06:35 Lots of us use 140/90/15 rear. |
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Title: Re: Tires Post by Armen on 08/06/16 at 04:04:59 FWIW, I had Woody's Wheel works do the tubeless conversion on my spoked wheels. Not a cheap date, but it's nice to not worry about swapping tubes on the side of the road. |
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Title: Re: Tires Post by justin_o_guy2 on 08/06/16 at 04:15:12 You can elaborate on Woody and the not so cheap date. |
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Title: Re: Tires Post by old.indian on 08/06/16 at 11:00:10 404B474D4A474B564A240 wrote:
You will definitely need tubes installed. You might be able to re-use your existing tubes... Dependent on the area you live/ride in, you should check the size and tread pattern that best suits you. Example: Here in the high desert of New Mexico I have long straight dry stretches with few, if any, tight twisties. I use a "hard" 140/90-15 Michelin. But, if I lived and rode on the Blue Ridge Parkway area, I would want a narrower, "softer" tire. You need to decide what works best for you before you invest in a tire that may not suit your needs. |
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Title: Re: Tires Post by justin_o_guy2 on 08/06/16 at 11:32:00 If you ride 1,000 miles a year and buy a 12,000 mile tire it's probably gonna get dried out before you wear them out. |
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Title: Re: Tires Post by zipidachimp on 08/06/16 at 12:34:13 the weight I lost using a dyna muff, I regained using a kenda 140/90-15 tire! Next tire will be a 130/90 ! 8-) |
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Title: Re: Tires Post by Dave on 08/06/16 at 14:48:25 New Tire Discussion....guide. http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1448021014 |
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Title: Re: Tires Post by batman on 08/06/16 at 22:56:06 DOC, I don't believe there are tubed tires,(I may be wrong)I think all bike tires made today are tubeless,the difference is our bikes don't have sealed rims ,air would leak out of every spoke were they enter the rim that is why we must run tubes. |
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Title: Re: Tires Post by Armen on 08/07/16 at 04:15:54 Justin: Woody's Wheel Works in Colorado. I'm doing genre reassignment surgery to the bike-transitioning it from Cruiser to Cafe ;D Sent a bare (modified) hub out there. They got polished spokes and nipples from Buchannans, an 18x2.5" Excel aluminum rim and built up a wheel. Then they did their tubeless conversion voodoo. Basically they goop up the nipples (tire side) then cover with a kind of rim band. $100 to build, $100 to do the conversion, rim and spokes and polishing about another $400. So, about $600 for the whole deal, not counting the cost of the used hub. And of course the machining I did on the hub was my own labor. Beautiful! Once I put some serious miles on the bike, I'll decide whether to leave the front 19" or change to 18". Then the front hub goes out for the same treatment. I just can't see myself in the middle of nowhere with a flat on a tube bike with no center stand. The tubeless conversion was only $100, it was all the other stuff that added up. -Armen |
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Title: Re: Tires Post by justin_o_guy2 on 08/07/16 at 07:25:16 Excellent rundown, thank you. I wish it was in some sticky somewhere. |
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Title: Re: Tires Post by cheapnewb24 on 08/07/16 at 08:34:12 Hey, guys... I've noticed that cafe conversions tend run 18 inch rims. Why 18 in particular... as opposed to... say... 17? |
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Title: Re: Tires Post by gizzo on 08/07/16 at 13:59:35 Because they look nice. |
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Title: Re: Tires Post by Armen on 08/07/16 at 14:23:06 Hey Cheapnewb, I went with the 18" (as opposed to 17) for two reasons: a) Wanted to raise the gearing as much as possible without having to switch to chain drive. b) wanted to pick up the ass end of the bike to tighten up the steering head angle. Easy way to quicken the steering. And I did the +2" longer shocks. |
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Title: Re: Tires Post by WD on 08/10/16 at 22:12:54 27342D34393C3E3534302D5D0 wrote:
NOTE: just did a Shinko 130/90-15 734R on Sam. REQUIRES short shocks. Put old stock shocks on in place of the very tired Intruder spec Progressives. Stock shocks set on 4, tire at 5psi lower than sidewall maximum... Net height reduction of 5" versus 140/90 with Intruder 800 shocks. Sam launches like he was shot out of a cannon. Picked up a gain of 10mph indicated in first 3 gears. Falls flat on his face passing 60mph. 1000 fold improvement in road manners. Very little chassis squirm. Zero rut or groove tracking. Hugs the curves like a rigid, approach the curve, start to brace for the expected pitch and wobble... Look at your mirrors and see the curve disappearing behind you. Think about a shift in lane position, and the bike is there on its own. Oh, the extended tailpipe bottoms out now... And the floorboards touch down very easily... Tube is in its 3rd tire since 2013. I hate driving... |
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Title: Re: Tires Post by zipidachimp on 08/12/16 at 02:21:20 shock length? why? 8-) |
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