|
SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Savage lady needs help /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1470252257 Message started by Xbeaus on 08/03/16 at 12:24:17 |
|
Title: Savage lady needs help Post by Xbeaus on 08/03/16 at 12:24:17 06 blvd. Trying to find out why oil leaks out, covers rear tire. There is a blue electrical wire going into clutch side. Seems to be losing oil out of there but unsure. Running Castrol 20-50 oil and level is good. Gear engagement is also very hard . Almost have to force it in gear. Any input what to do and where to look would be helpful. Thanks! |
|
Title: Re: Savage lady needs help Post by stewmills on 08/03/16 at 12:35:17 Can you post a pic? Might help others to see if it appears to be something someone rigged up or an issue with a stock bike. One thing to know/note is that the bolts holding the footpegs on are thru-bolts that hold the engine case together. If these are loose, that can allow fluids to leak out of the case seal although that may not be your issue here. Have you traced your clutch cabling to make sure it isn't pinched anywhere? Also make sure that the cable is seated properly at the case in the little silver clutch arm. |
|
Title: Re: Savage lady needs help Post by McWj on 08/03/16 at 12:40:30 The thin blue wire is for the neutral light indicator. It should pass through an obvisious rubber "seal" in the cover. If you or someone else had done some work it might have been pulled. Give it close look to make sure it's in place and then I might start by wiping the cover down good, have someone hold the bike vertical (not on the side stand) so the oil pump works properly, start it up and see if you can pinpoint any leakage. |
|
Title: Re: Savage lady needs help Post by youzguyz on 08/03/16 at 12:45:03 oil leak: Check the "puke tube" that comes out of the bottom of the air box. It should have plug in it. Oil that is blown out through the breather will collect in there. You empty it when the oil is changed. It is possible that the blue wire (neutral indicator) is leaking oil where it goes into the case. In the same area, where the clutch arm goes into the case. That has an o-ring that can only be replaced by taking off the clutch cover. Clean the area really good, then run it a bit to see if you can isolate which is the culprit. Hard to shift: Unless you have some miles of experience on the bike, it could be technique. Sometimes, the clutch has to be let out a bit while you are shifting for the gears to change easily. You certainly don't want to force it, or you will bend the rod in the shift linkage. It may be bent already, as that will make it hard to shift because the rod will flex instead of transferring motion from the shift pedal to the transmission. |
|
Title: Re: Savage lady needs help Post by Xbeaus on 08/03/16 at 12:56:52 Thanks for all the input. This bike is my girlfriends bike and has about 6000 miles on it. I'm a very experienced rider but not familiar with the Suzuki. I will take into consideration all input here. The "Puke" tube does not have a plug in it and she says that it looked like it was coming out of there. I sprayed brake cleaner over the case and cleaned it up so I can re-create the leak but I would like to get it to shift better. I'm going to change the oil out completely and start from there for now. As hard as it is to shift I'm wondering if something isn't bent in there. Just doesn't feel right at all. |
|
Title: Re: Savage lady needs help Post by Dave on 08/03/16 at 13:17:11 That tube that comes out of the air box and drains down to the area behind the engine - but in front of the tire is supposed to have a plastic plug in it. The line is a drain from the airbox, and it should be drained at the same time you change oil. The rest of the time it is supposed to be sealed - so the vapors from the engine do not exit this little tube. |
|
Title: Re: Savage lady needs help Post by Johnny57 on 08/03/16 at 13:18:39 Look under the shift lever for the linkage and the rod. Sometimes the rod can bend or be set up in such a way as to be hitting the bottom of the case during a shift. Shifting might not be difficult at all. It may just be the setup of the linkage. The linkage can be set up such as to not bind while shifting. I have and know of others who have actually replaced and broken the shift rod after it has been bent a few times. |
|
Title: Re: Savage lady needs help Post by verslagen1 on 08/03/16 at 14:05:29 clutch maybe dragging a bit which would cause the hard shifting. while the owners manual does list the 20w-50 for high temp areas, the 50wt limits cooling flow. And I don't see an improvement to go to the high wt. oil. Also could be causing the clutch drag. Back by the neutral wire coming out of the case, are two marks that show the limits of the clutch throwout lever. Hold the lever up with you hand to take the play out and compare the lever with the marks. oil leaks are difficult, the dam stuff goes everywhere. Plug the puke line, clean the engine, take a short ride and check. It can even come from the oil fil cap up front or the speedo cable on top of the case. There's a couple of threads at the top of the RSD you should read thru. http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1344399573 http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1366651397 |
|
Title: Re: Savage lady needs help Post by justin_o_guy2 on 08/03/16 at 14:20:00 How many miles? When you leave from a stop, do you slip the clutch? Gear engagement.... If that's From Neutral, into first, and you've stomped the lever to force it into first after sitting through a light in gear with the clutch lever pulled in, then the odds that the rod is bent are pretty good. If you're able to shift up from first pretty easily, but down shifting doesn't work so good, then certainly check it. Heck, check it out anyway. The cheapest and, so far, best oil has been Rotella 15/40, though I think I recently saw that the zinc content is no longer up to what the bike needs. Redline ZDDP added will solve that. We have people who have over 100,000 miles on their bikes and and have not pulled the head. So, go lay down and look under the shifter, pull down on it, gently, see what the rod does. |
|
Title: Re: Savage lady needs help Post by jcstokes on 08/03/16 at 20:23:32 Make sure the speedo cable is tight where it joins the gearbox, this shouldn't cause a huge leak but it can put a little on the rear of the cover. |
|
Title: Re: Savage lady needs help Post by Xbeaus on 08/04/16 at 06:49:53 I'll get to it this weekend and report what I see. What a helpful place this is! I ride a yamaha Warrior 1700. This cycle is pretty light compared to mine! lol |
|
Title: Re: Savage lady needs help Post by justin_o_guy2 on 08/04/16 at 06:55:42 658 pounds,,, no Way, at no time in my life.. |
|
Title: Re: Savage lady needs help Post by Xbeaus on 08/04/16 at 07:13:34 3D2224233E3908380830222E65570 wrote:
But she rips the pavement ;) |
|
Title: Re: Savage lady needs help Post by SavageMan99 on 08/04/16 at 07:24:11 Does speed shifting while also using the clutch help on our bikes? |
|
Title: Re: Savage lady needs help Post by Dave on 08/04/16 at 07:29:28 7042554244466E424D1A1A230 wrote:
Helps with the destruction of the clutch and belt....I betcha! :-? |
|
Title: Re: Savage lady needs help Post by verslagen1 on 08/04/16 at 08:27:31 wotchutalkanaboutwillis ? speed shifting, as in winding it out, WFO, clutchless progression through the gears... Bonneville style speed run. Clutch, not being used, assuming no slip therefore no heat. easy peasy. Belt, max tension, tear jerking pulses damped by rubber duckies all yelling aflac in progression. Gears, all crying for mercy. Dogs, each in turn are slammed into the house with barely a let up of the throttle and nary a wimper. |
|
Title: Re: Savage lady needs help Post by SavageMan99 on 08/04/16 at 08:39:42 I usually combine the two, Rev it and quickly shift on the down side of the Rev. |
|
Title: Re: Savage lady needs help Post by Dave on 08/04/16 at 09:05:30 675C5146575B40465D555847340 wrote:
Helps with the destruction of the clutch and belt....I betcha! :-?[/quote] I thought "speed shifting" was pulling in the clutch without letting off the gas.....then shifting to the next highest gear and popping the clutch to let the high revving engine momentum slam through the drive train! |
|
Title: Re: Savage lady needs help Post by verslagen1 on 08/04/16 at 10:39:41 12292433222E353328202D32410 wrote:
Ouch... that's just harsh. |
|
Title: Re: Savage lady needs help Post by SavageMan99 on 08/04/16 at 12:02:49 When I had my dirt bike, the chain bent the clutch rod, so I speed shifted it for a good year. |
|
Title: Re: Savage lady needs help Post by KennyG on 08/04/16 at 12:18:00 For What It Is Worth To me there is no worse repair to make than a motorcycle transmission in a modern unit constructed engine, clutch, transmission unit. Before anyone gets in the habit of slam shifting and speed shifting they should have to pull the transmission and rebuild it. Most guys will never learn to split the cases and repair a transmission. Kenny G |
|
Title: Re: Savage lady needs help Post by WD on 08/04/16 at 20:08:28 In order: Check shifter linkage. Rear pivot "finger" must point straight down to ensure proper shifting. Pull and reset, adjust rod length to suit. Change the oil for 15w40 big rig oil. Modern motorcycle oils and car oils are not compatible with antique cam/followers or wet clutches. Remember, the rocker arms (followers) in our bikes debuted during the 19th century (yes, late 1860s technology). Tighten the clutch cable. Savage/S40 LOVES nothing as much as it does stretching clutch cables. My 98 would demolish a couple of them a year. They suck unless you spend the coin for a Barnett cable. Motion Pro and stock cables are cheap Chinese junk. |
|
Title: Re: Savage lady needs help Post by engineer on 08/05/16 at 13:13:41 We seem to have two definitions of speed shifting. I googled the topic and found that there is no consensus. Does anyone know of an "official" definition of speed shifting and how it differs from power shifting. |
|
Title: Re: Savage lady needs help Post by justin_o_guy2 on 08/05/16 at 13:22:51 The technique I outlined is smooth, quiet, quick, and limited to never shifting out of or into first. I never saw a change in the feel or sound of the transmission or the feel of regular shifting. |
|
Title: Re: Savage lady needs help Post by verslagen1 on 08/05/16 at 13:31:46 From wiki... Quote:
This seems to be what Dave described as speed shifting... and yeah, it's hard on the clutch. Whereas, speed shifting as described here, let's off the throttle to shift. The savage is quite capable doing it clutchless. |
|
Title: Re: Savage lady needs help Post by justin_o_guy2 on 08/05/16 at 13:44:47 Rider skill matters. I've driven eighteen wheelers and shifted without the clutch more than with. Downshift without a tach? Oil pressure gauge. |
|
Title: Re: Savage lady needs help Post by Xbeaus on 08/18/16 at 07:04:49 Tightened the clutch cable, plugged the breather hole and changed the oil. Had wayyyyyyy to much oil in it so that could have been an issue. Shifts like butter and doesn't lose any oil! Thanks again for all the help :) |
|
Title: Re: Savage lady needs help Post by justin_o_guy2 on 08/18/16 at 08:19:08 Why did you tighten the cable? You need some slack there... Enough to wiggle the lever with a fingertip. Some small gap between the lever and the pivot. |
|
Title: Re: Savage lady needs help Post by CarnivalOfRust on 08/19/16 at 20:26:55 647760617E7375777C23120 wrote:
I powershift my dirt bikes when I think I'm going fast, or if I'm showing off and they can handle it, I do all of my own wrenching and haven't had to replace the frictions and steels in over 8 years. They are much lighter than the Savage though. I am not super comfy with street riding yet, but I doubt I'll ever be powershifting, maybe speed shifting, but only because that can be done smoothly. I believe it's the impact that shocks transmissions apart. I've worked on a couple dirt bike trans that were worn out, but I've seen far more that kinda exploded. The broken parts always involve a story about some sudden impact. I don't want my Savage to explode, I won't be powershifting. ;) |
|
Title: Re: Savage lady needs help Post by Mnheights on 01/08/18 at 09:38:12 52415657484543414A15240 wrote:
How dose it limit cooling flow? |
|
Title: Re: Savage lady needs help Post by verslagen1 on 01/08/18 at 10:02:18 4764626F636D627E790A0 wrote:
thick oil doesn't flow as fast as thin oil so oil doesn't carry the heat from the hot parts to the cooler very quickly. This was seen as higher operating temps for the same conditions. |
|
Title: Re: Savage lady needs help Post by LANCER on 01/08/18 at 15:59:32 In a multi weight oil, the oil should not thicken until higher operating temps are reached. OR ... does our engine normally operate at those higher temps routinely ? |
|
Title: Re: Savage lady needs help Post by Dave on 01/08/18 at 16:30:59 3538373A3C2B6B6E590 wrote:
The oil doesn't thicken as it gets hot - it just thins out less as the temperature rises. I wonder if the heaver viscosity oil actually pulls more heat away from the piston skirt to the cylinder - which would increase the cylinder/engine case temperature while reducing the piston temperature? |
|
Title: Re: Savage lady needs help Post by batman on 01/08/18 at 17:47:07 There are two things that cool our motors ,air passing over it and oil moving through it . Pressure can be provided by oils as low as 5w or 10w-30 ,but this oil can only be used when outside temps are below 86 F. 10w-40 and 15w-40 provide better FLOW being thinner than 20w-50, they flow faster through the motor passages providing a thicker film layer between parts and greater quantity of oil removes more heat. All three oils are rated to protect the motor to outside temp in access of 104 F, but the motor will run cooler with one of the 40 weight oils.(Verslagen- 1, tested with his bike in CA ) |
|
Title: Re: Savage lady needs help Post by verslagen1 on 01/08/18 at 18:30:08 7A77787573642421160 wrote:
This is a trick question (and dave is right) But lets consider normal operating engine temp only. 40wt oil is 40wt and 50wt oil is 50wt... whatever the viscosity is. 40wt will slip thru the orifices faster than 50wt. At freeway speed you have 50psi, and whatever flow that might be. It goes to the top of the head and out the cam journals... for the most part. Thicker at this point will mean less flow, less heat carried away. http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1283117891/0 |
|
SuzukiSavage.com » Powered by YaBB 2.2! YaBB © 2000-2007. All Rights Reserved. |