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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Oil options /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1468952938 Message started by Redryder652 on 07/19/16 at 11:28:58 |
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Title: Oil options Post by Redryder652 on 07/19/16 at 11:28:58 Does anyone run amsoil motorcycle oil? I'd like to run a thicker oil than rotella. How is it? Does it serve the same protection as rotella? |
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Title: Re: Oil options Post by Dave on 07/19/16 at 11:32:26 I give up....why do you want an oil thicker than 15W-40? Thicker doesn't improve the lubricating qualities. |
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Title: Re: Oil options Post by Redryder652 on 07/19/16 at 11:38:17 I have this thought process that I think it will last longer. Even if I didn't go 20w-50, I would feel good going to synthetic, and keep it at 10w-40. I used to run 20w-50 all the time before I went to rotella, is there something wrong with it? |
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Title: Re: Oil options Post by justin_o_guy2 on 07/19/16 at 11:47:47 These things are notorious for Not oiling the top end well. On the first start, how long will it take to get oil up to the cam? Once it's warmed up, it's fifty weight,, Do whatever, but, I don't see how it is gonna run longer. I sure don't see why that is gonna save a penny. I think you'll spend more and see problems. Why argue with success? We have some high mileage, never opened, engines. |
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Title: Re: Oil options Post by Redryder652 on 07/19/16 at 11:56:53 Okay, but now my next question is does t6 come in the same weight as t1? I really would like to go synthetic, but I don't know if I like the 5w part much. Isn't that too light? |
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Title: Re: Oil options Post by justin_o_guy2 on 07/19/16 at 12:01:43 How long have you been riding? How many miles? How many years until you see 130,000 miles? If someone could show you an oil that was good enough to accomplish that And it was relatively inexpensive, would you be interested? I don't know the answer to your question. I stopped shopping oil years ago. I found something that works and is affordable and easily accessible. So I stopped thinking about possible alternatives.YMMV.. |
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Title: Re: Oil options Post by Dave on 07/19/16 at 12:12:35 4C7B7A6C677A7B6C282B2C1E0 wrote:
You only need to worry about the 5W part....when it is winter. When it is warm out, and your engine is fully warmed up, the oil is equivalent to a 40 weight. And that 5W rating is not applicable once the engine is started and running....that is the equivalent rating at the cold "start up" temperature. The 5W rating is the attribute that will make your engine easier to start on that cold winter night....it doesn't mean the oil is thinner when used in a hot engine in the summer. Maybe this will help you understand viscosity......a 5w-40 synthetic oil is not necessarily thinner than a 15W-40 conventional oil. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tYkg0oDUXs8 |
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Title: Re: Oil options Post by Redryder652 on 07/19/16 at 12:25:47 3A252324393E0F3F0F37252962500 wrote:
I've been riding for about 5 years now and have 14000 miles on the clock. I am very interested in the oil you run. Is it t1 or t6? |
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Title: Re: Oil options Post by Redryder652 on 07/19/16 at 12:27:11 12292433222E353328202D32410 wrote:
You only need to worry about the 5W part....when it is winter. When it is warm out, and your engine is fully warmed up, the oil is equivalent to a 40 weight. And that 5W rating is not applicable once the engine is started and running....that is the equivalent rating at the cold "start up" temperature. The 5W rating is the attribute that will make your engine easier to start on that cold winter night....it doesn't mean the oil is thinner when used in a hot engine in the summer. Maybe this will help you understand viscosity......a 5w-40 synthetic oil is not necessarily thinner than a 15W-40 conventional oil. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tYkg0oDUXs8 [/quote] Thanks die clearing things up for me, but Does this mean if you don't fully let the Bike warm up, you can get startup damage? |
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Title: Re: Oil options Post by Dave on 07/19/16 at 13:07:47 I don't know what you mean by "start up damage". Multi-grade oils (5W-50, 10W-40, 15W-40, 20W-50,etc.) aren't going to cause any damage just because one has a lower "W" rating than another one does. It is currently summer and the temperatures are hot....the W rating really isn't in effect until the temperatures get very cold. I run Rotella T, 15W-40. I sit on my bike, turn on the key, start it up, use the throttle to keep the rpm up about twice the normal idle speed for about 15 seconds to get the oil moving around, then I let it idle down, click it in gear and I ride off. I don't use a lot of throttle for about 4-5 minutes while the bike is getting warm. My engine doesn't need the choke in warm weather to start.....so I don't have to bother with that until the weather drops down to around 50, and I seldom ride when it is that cold. If you want to run a conventional oil in the summer....Rotella T 15W-40 is a good oil, and you can also use 10W-40. You can run 20W-50 if you want - but there really isn't any benefit from running oil that thick that I can see - maybe if you spent hours on the interstate or did a lot of parades where the engine might get pretty hot. If you want to run a synthetic oil.....pick one that has a 40 or 50 rating, and don't worry that the oil is 5W or 10W or 15W or 20W...those don't mean anything when you are riding in the summer. Rotella T 5W-40 is a good oil and very affordable, and work just fine in the Savage. The 5W or 10W or 15W rating is an indicator of how the oil responds when the outside temperature is cold. So the lower the number the easier it is to get your engine started in cold weather. You seem to be confusing this with the oil being "thinner" at warm temperatures - which is not necessarily true....you need to pay attention to the 30/40/50 number when considering how the oil performs when the engine is hot. Suzuki recommends this, and there are no 5W ratings in this chart because it does not consider "synthetic" oils....only conventional petroleum based oils. (It is fine to run synthetic 5W-40 oil in the Savage....they just didn't include it in their chart). |
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Title: Re: Oil options Post by batman on 07/19/16 at 16:00:18 RR,I've looked at amsol ,read the small print, it said ma1-ma2 . ma2 is not something you want in your clutch it will slip! You can use anything you want ,but it will be more money and won't work as well as rotella. |
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Title: Re: Oil options Post by KennyG on 07/19/16 at 17:50:49 It seems like we beat this dead horse at least once a week. ROTELLA Is The Only Correct Answer! Kenny G |
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Title: Re: Oil options Post by Redryder652 on 07/19/16 at 21:54:34 Okay, I understand everything except one, if I go to t6, could I make the change back to conventional down the road? I know it's okay to do in a car, but is it different with a bike? |
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Title: Re: Oil options Post by sauvage on 07/19/16 at 22:02:44 @Dave, You see what I mean? Now imagine if after some time when the meta oil thread is full of links and the occasional excellent post from somewhere, and they lift all that good stuff and place it in it's own special thread in the tech section and never again will a thread like this be necessary, you'll just have to refer them to the tech section and they can keep reading until they are mentally satiated. |
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Title: Re: Oil options Post by KennyG on 07/19/16 at 22:35:56 Sauvage, Best idea on the forum all day! Kenny G |
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Title: Re: Oil options Post by justin_o_guy2 on 07/20/16 at 02:46:31 1C2B2A3C372A2B3C787B7C4E0 wrote:
I never Did understand that You can change but you can't change Back thing. Was it ever valid? Is it? Where did it come from? |
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Title: Re: Oil options Post by verslagen1 on 07/20/16 at 07:48:04 233C3A3D20271626162E3C307B490 wrote:
I never Did understand that You can change but you can't change Back thing. Was it ever valid? Is it? Where did it come from? [/quote] This mainly comes from true synthetics, as some are not compatible with conventional oils... like mixing oil and water. Most synthetics we get nowadays are just super refined conventional. So the tail end of one won't get in the way of a fresh fill... much. But you're much better off sticking to a single oil rather than mixing. |
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Title: Re: Oil options Post by Redryder652 on 07/20/16 at 08:22:19 But I should be alright going from t1 to t6 right? |
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Title: Re: Oil options Post by Armen on 07/20/16 at 09:03:50 In the late 70's and early 80's I remember using the early 2 stoke synthetics. When they'd meet up with Dino oil, they'd turn into a white goop that looked like Mayonnaise. Clog up the whole oil injection system. You had to completely flush the old stuff out when switching from synth to dino or back. I think people 'remember' that, and apply it to modern 4 stroke oils. It never was true. Every time I teach a Motorcycle Maintenance class or do a tech seminar, the question comes up. I hold up a bottle of Synth/Dino blend and ask 'If it's ok for the stuff to be in the same bottle, it prob is ok if you mix them up in your engine'. |
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Title: Re: Oil options Post by verslagen1 on 07/20/16 at 09:29:45 0D3A3B2D263B3A2D696A6D5F0 wrote:
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Title: Re: Oil options Post by Redryder652 on 07/20/16 at 10:03:37 2C3F2829363B3D3F346B5A0 wrote:
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Dang, have I been saying t1 this whole time?!? darn, why am I a human, I meant just rotella t triple. I'm a dumby. |
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Title: Re: Oil options Post by justin_o_guy2 on 07/20/16 at 16:20:55 No, real dummies are too stupid to ever see how stupid they are. You're alright.. |
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Title: Re: Oil options Post by Kris01 on 07/20/16 at 18:51:34 415E585F42457444744C5E52192B0 wrote:
It is impossible to make people understand their ignorance; for it requires knowledge to perceive it and therefore he that can perceive it hath it not. Jeremy Taylor (1613-1667)[ch8203] |
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