|
SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Drag bars and grips /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1468403480 Message started by JPSavage on 07/13/16 at 02:51:20 |
|
Title: Drag bars and grips Post by JPSavage on 07/13/16 at 02:51:20 Hi gang, I'm torn between swapping out the stock bars for drag bars and with just putting on some grips like these and calling it a day. http://shop.rycamotors.com/grips.html Has anyone done either? Any pros/cons? My fear is that I'm a bit tall for the drag bars (6'1) Do I need 7/8" grips or 1" grips? Can I expect to run in to any snags? |
|
Title: Re: Drag bars and grips Post by gizzo on 07/13/16 at 04:20:39 If you do drag bars you'll need a couple inches high risers so the bars won't hit the tank on full lock. You have 1" bars so you need 1" grips. Can't see being 6' tall being a reason not to have drag bars or to keep the buckhorns.Its all down to taste. A buddy of mine is 6'6" and he likes the ride position on my savage with drag bars. |
|
Title: Re: Drag bars and grips Post by batman on 07/13/16 at 17:45:24 I'm 6ft and had drag bars on mine for years loved 'em. but I was riding solo, the bars make you lean slightly forward which works well if your not using a windshield,the wrist position is much more comfortable and you'll feel more steering control.(I thought the buckhorn were the worst!)you might want to check out your nearest Harley dealer their bars are all 1inch. |
|
Title: Re: Drag bars and grips Post by LANCER on 07/13/16 at 18:44:37 I am 5'7", had drag bars for years and loved them. They were up on 6" risers. My body is much achier now so no drag bars, but I an not too far from them. And yes, it is just a matter of taste and desire. |
|
Title: Re: Drag bars and grips Post by Kris01 on 07/13/16 at 18:46:53 I have a 2008. It has stock drag bars, right? That's what they're called? |
|
Title: Re: Drag bars and grips Post by cheapnewb24 on 07/13/16 at 21:43:47 A related discussion: What's the best idea for bar end weights? Are those drag bars pre-weighted? I'd consider changing the bars on mine one day, and I'd be interested in the best way of getting rid of vibration. I've read about people here talking about lead shot. If I did that, I'd stuff it in a rubber tube or something that would actually dampen the vibration instead of just changing it's frequency. Here might be an idea : http://www.triumphrat.net/air-cooled-twins-technical-talk/90372-bar-ends-for-1-inch-bars-on-t100.html Make the conventional bar end weights fit. |
|
Title: Re: Drag bars and grips Post by JPSavage on 07/14/16 at 05:24:37 Seems like a lot to think about. I love the drag bars and the clubman bars. When you all changed bars did you need to get new clutch and brake lines? Or was it close enough to stock? |
|
Title: Re: Drag bars and grips Post by gizzo on 07/14/16 at 06:08:18 My cables and hose from the buckhorns are fine with the drag bars. I've never felt the need to weight the bar ends, either. But that's just me. If I was going to, i'd just pour a bunch of molten lead in there. No rattling or shifting about and I could always drill it out if I didnt like it. |
|
Title: Re: Drag bars and grips Post by batman on 07/14/16 at 08:18:33 If I where to add weight I'd go buy some rolls of plumbing solder ,melt it and pour it in.It doesn't turn to dust like lead shot,is nearly as heavy as lead,but contains little(10%?) or no lead.(they took the lead out because of use in copper piping) |
|
Title: Re: Drag bars and grips Post by zipidachimp on 07/18/16 at 00:41:30 Anyone using 'Z' bars? Looks like they would move my arms closer together, less windage. 8-) |
|
Title: Re: Drag bars and grips Post by justin_o_guy2 on 07/18/16 at 05:41:49 I'd think wheel weights would be a good start, add some solder to the mix, Id probably plug a washer with a bolt and use that to set the washer down in the bar. Same bolt, both sides, equal weight.. Heck, sinkers for fishing are cheap, drop some in, dump solder in, layer it , A Mapp gas cylinder , piece of pipe, threaded and a cap, Could use a Tee, and thread a handle into it. |
|
Title: Re: Drag bars and grips Post by verslagen1 on 07/18/16 at 07:30:29 46554C55585D5F5455514C3C0 wrote:
Depends on the width of the bars. I use 'm, but I'm a big guy and I like 30" wide bars. So that's what I buy. |
|
Title: Re: Drag bars and grips Post by batman on 07/18/16 at 10:42:15 776473726D6066646F30010 wrote:
Depends on the width of the bars. I use 'm, but I'm a big guy and I like 30" wide bars. So that's what I buy. [/quote] I'm with Verslagen on this,take a yard stick or six foot ruler ,put it in your hands,close you eyes and start with your hands at your sides and lift your arms straight in front of you,thats how wide you need your bars ,anything narrower will be uncomfortable an afford you less steering advantage.windage will depend on the size of your fist! |
|
Title: Re: Drag bars and grips Post by zipidachimp on 07/18/16 at 20:40:06 measured 28". narrow chest with pot belly, ouch! 8-) |
|
Title: Re: Drag bars and grips Post by KennyG on 07/18/16 at 21:33:20 FWIW I am 6' 0" The S40 factory drag bars measure 27" from the tip of one grip to the tip of the other grip. I do have the bars mounted on 2" risers rather that the tall factory risers. My Buell bars are SuperBars also commonly known as European Bars and they measure 30". I find both bars on both bikes comfortable, although I wouldn't object to an additional inch or 2 of width on the S40. I do not do any lane splitting, ever. Kenny G |
|
Title: Re: Drag bars and grips Post by batman on 07/18/16 at 22:46:07 Zip you can't grow smaller bars but you can cut down longer ones,get 30"s and if you think there to wide bob 'em. |
|
Title: Re: Drag bars and grips Post by zipidachimp on 07/19/16 at 03:59:15 I'm thinking with 'z' bars I can craft a sheet metal dashboard with tach, speedo and lights, bolt it to the 'z' uprights, put the key in the tank cavity. Cool, no? 8-) |
|
Title: Re: Drag bars and grips Post by justin_o_guy2 on 07/19/16 at 11:52:04 It sounds good. Be aware of the hazard it poses. |
|
Title: Re: Drag bars and grips Post by zipidachimp on 07/19/16 at 12:54:22 JOG: forgot about cable. GPS maybe, or maybe not so cool :-[ |
|
Title: Re: Drag bars and grips Post by norm92de on 07/20/16 at 12:19:45 KennyG, Did you have any tank clearance issues or control cable problems when you put the 2" risers on? I'm thinking along those lines. Thanks. |
|
Title: Re: Drag bars and grips Post by KennyG on 07/20/16 at 14:05:49 Norm, You cannot go under 2"with the risers. I would try to stay about 2 1/8" just to be safe. The cables and brake line worked out without a problem. I did leave the key in the gas cap and bent it over when I moved the bars. I cut off the existing factory risers and it would have been easy enough to cut then at 2 1/8". Kenny |
|
Title: Re: Drag bars and grips Post by verslagen1 on 07/20/16 at 14:09:45 Be aware that the throttle cable comes out the bottom or the front depending on year. So you may need more room if yours comes out the bottom. |
|
Title: Re: Drag bars and grips Post by Tocsik on 07/20/16 at 14:15:14 614F4469584B59422A0 wrote:
How did you cut down the risers? And did you need to buy some new hardware (shorter bolts)? |
|
Title: Re: Drag bars and grips Post by KennyG on 07/20/16 at 17:10:12 Tocsik, As Verslagen pointed out some model years will require taller risers. My S40 is a 2013 and 2" is just tall enough. I cut my risers off with a hacksaw, which is very hard way to get precision workmanship. I made a clamp out of a piece of 2x4 and bored a hole in it to match the diameter of the riser and then cut a saw kerf across the edge of the 2x4 so I could clamp it. I then bored and tapped the riser to match the existing metric fastener. If this is your first metal project, and you don't have a n Atlas Lathe or a Bridgeport you might want to consider buying risers. I did make risers from socket wrenches and didn't care for them. If you have a drill press and decide to cut your risers down I can walk you through the process. Kenny G |
|
SuzukiSavage.com » Powered by YaBB 2.2! YaBB © 2000-2007. All Rights Reserved. |