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Message started by JPSavage on 07/10/16 at 19:51:51

Title: Crazy neutral switch....or not?
Post by JPSavage on 07/10/16 at 19:51:51

Hey gang,

I recently bought a 98 off of a guy on C-list and I have worked out a few other issues with the help of some of the people on here.  On to the neutral switch.  

Left alone, the neutral light NEVER comes on.  The bike thinks it's in gear all the time, so even if it's in neutral, if I put the kickstand down, she turns off.  I can't let the bike warm up with the kickstand down.

So today, I took the tank off and found the blue wire that goes to the neutral switch.  Disconnected the wiring harness (one wire) and jumped the handle side (not motor side) to ground.  The neutral light comes on AND I can start the bike with the kickstand down (I don't think that the kickstand shutoff works in this setup, but didn't REALLY test that).  

Anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks!

Title: Re: Crazy neutral switch....or not?
Post by verslagen1 on 07/10/16 at 20:07:13

I say go with it, replace the switch when you can.

Title: Re: Crazy neutral switch....or not?
Post by cheapnewb24 on 07/10/16 at 20:35:17

Honestly, I bought my bike with a bad neutral switch too, and I've put around 3K on it and now I  plan on replacing it as soon as I get the stuck exhaust bolt problem solved. I tend to park and crank in gear anyway, and I use the kickstand as a kill switch. I don't use the regular kill switch much. The only major problem is that you can't get off the bike and leave it idling. However, idling on the kickstand too much may be detrimental anyway, especially if you don't have the idle speed high enough. Neutral is easy to find on my bike.In fact, my lazy foot sometimes fails to reach second during shifts, which is annoying. Maybe lacking the switch teaches you to find true neutral instead of looking for the light.

I've lived with it just fine, and it is my first bike.  :)

Title: Re: Crazy neutral switch....or not?
Post by batman on 07/10/16 at 23:19:38

The best way to warm the bike is by driving it being kind to it for the first few miles. Idling on the kickstand will wear the valve train. It is nice to be able to start in neutral though it takes some load off the starter when motor and oil are cold.

Title: Re: Crazy neutral switch....or not?
Post by JPSavage on 07/11/16 at 07:49:54

Never knew that idling in neutral could be detrimental to the bike.  I can see how that make sense.  There's something in the back of my brain (from MC safety class) telling me that I can't survive without that neutral light.

I'm still 50/50 on this.  Hopefully now that she's ship shape (otherwise), I can put a few miles on her and then make a decision about what I'll do.

If anyone has any other recommendations on how to fix it, I'd love to hear them so that I can make an informed decision.

Thanks again!   :) ;) :D

Title: Re: Crazy neutral switch....or not?
Post by Dave on 07/11/16 at 07:59:29

Have you checked the wire that leads from the connector under the tank....down to the crankcase near the oil level inspection window to see if the wire is visibly broken somewhere?

Title: Re: Crazy neutral switch....or not?
Post by JPSavage on 07/11/16 at 08:18:09

Dave - that's where it gets weird.  So, left alone, I have no neutral light, ever.  Can't start the bike w/ the kickstand down, so I'm assuming that the bike "thinks" the I'm in gear and kickstand is always down.

I jumped that wire (the handlebar side of the plug, not the engine side) to ground and I got a neutral light AND was able to start the bike with the kickstand down in neutral.  

I'm trying to figure out if the switch down by the crank case is bad or if it's something else.  Sounds kinda like the switch.  But was also looking to see if anyone has done the job and how tough it is b/c I can't even find the darn thing and by the looks of the clymers book it's "in" the crank case.

Title: Re: Crazy neutral switch....or not?
Post by cheapnewb24 on 07/11/16 at 08:31:13


5053465F535C060A320 wrote:
The best way to warm the bike is by driving it being kind to it for the first few miles. Idling on the kickstand will wear the valve train. It is nice to be able to start in neutral though it takes some load off the starter when motor and oil are cold.


You can still start in neutral, just not with the kickstand down.

Title: Re: Crazy neutral switch....or not?
Post by Dave on 07/11/16 at 08:31:19

Yes, it is in the crankcase, and you have to take the clutch cover off to access it.

However....you need to look at the wire going down the top frame rail, and then down the right frame rail by the battery box, and then down to the bottom rear of the crankcase.  It is possible that the wire is broken, and the switch might be fine.

Title: Re: Crazy neutral switch....or not?
Post by cheapnewb24 on 07/11/16 at 08:45:11


0B1112727476410 wrote:
Never knew that idling in neutral could be detrimental to the bike.  I can see how that make sense.  There's something in the back of my brain (from MC safety class) telling me that I can't survive without that neutral light.

I'm still 50/50 on this.  Hopefully now that she's ship shape (otherwise), I can put a few miles on her and then make a decision about what I'll do.

If anyone has any other recommendations on how to fix it, I'd love to hear them so that I can make an informed decision.

Thanks again!   :) ;) :D


So, lightning is going to strike, and you're going to die if you don't see a green light on your dash?

You'll be fine.

I was taught in the MSF class not to even trust that stinkin' light.  ::) What if, by chance, you had some bike that wasn't even designed with a neutral light? I'm assuming there probably were some like that. It's in neutral when it's in neutral... end of story.

Of course, I'm probably not the most disciplined when it comes to practicing MSF procedures anyway. What MSF teacher would condone actually using the kickstand for a kill switch? ::)

I'm going to pull the clutch cover and replace mine. You'll have to remove the exhaust before you do that, though, I believe. My problem is that some dummy stuck a corrosive allen bolt in the manifold, and now I'm having to drill it out of the head.  :(. The factory bolt is chrome-plated or something and is easy to remove. The muffler bolts are prone to rust, but I got them out without too much trouble. Just get some penetrating oil in there to slick it up. Acetone and Dexron ATF make a good combo... or Acetone mixed with any oil, for that matter. As long as there is not something wrong, the exhaust probably shouldn't be a hard job.

Title: Re: Crazy neutral switch....or not?
Post by verslagen1 on 07/11/16 at 08:50:18

the neutral switch is a black plastic thingy behind the clutch pack.
and you have to remove the clutch cover to get access.
when in neutral, the switch shorts to ground but is open otherwise.
You can check this at the connector of the blue wire coming from the rear of the case.

The other possible failure is the diode on the wiring harness.
gotta spare if you need it.

Title: Re: Crazy neutral switch....or not?
Post by Savageman on 07/13/16 at 08:14:40

Put a ohm meter (continuity tester) on the neutral wire coming out of the engine by the oil level window and ground. If it is working then you should have continuity when it's in neutral if the switch is bad or a wire is broken off inside then it won't' have continuity thinking it's in gear all the time.

The factory connection right at point of where the wire exits the side cover is just a cheesy little crimp. It may be corroded or loose.  :-?

Title: Re: Crazy neutral switch....or not?
Post by Ed L. on 07/13/16 at 19:32:11

I buggered up the switch or wire when installing a cam now the light never comes on and the bike can't tell if it in gear or not. I've already bypassed the kickstand switch and have started the bike once while in gear ;D, once was enough. I do miss the neutral light at traffic lights, beside that you adapt.

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