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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Start With Key Wiring /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1466249347 Message started by Jeremy on 06/18/16 at 04:29:07 |
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Title: Start With Key Wiring Post by Jeremy on 06/18/16 at 04:29:07 Getting closer to wiring up my stripped down Savage and I'm trying to use an automotive style ignition switch to start the bike instead of a button. The switch I bought is self-grounded and has 4 terminals on the back... Bat, Acc, St, and Ign. Just want to make sure I have this right before I jump in. I've got a printout of the stock wiring diagram, but I'm basing my wiring off of the "Simplified / Chopper Wiring Diagram" found here... http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?board=tech;action=display;num=1173898705 Does this look correct? Bat - connects into the starter relay, which is connected to the battery. Acc - all the stuff needing power is connected here (headlight, signals, etc) St - connects into the decomp controller, which is connected to the starter relay. Ign - connects into the regulator / rectifier. |
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Title: Re: Start With Key Wiring Post by Armen on 06/18/16 at 15:30:20 Not sure what a 'self-grounding' switch is. Of the 4 terminals, a little clarification.... Many starter solenoids have a main fuse sitting next to them. The key switch would get it's juice (positive feed) from the fused side of this. I get it that the 'start' position would go to the start relay and decomp control. I'm assuming this is an automotive style 'momentary on' starter switch? Not sure why you have some stuff on the 'ign' terminal and some on the 'Acc' terminal. If you wanted to make the key switch a headlight switch as well, then put the headlight, tail light, and instrument lights onto the 'Acc' position, then the bike would start without the lights (a little more cranking juice), and you'd then turn the bike to the 'Acc' position and ride. Just run the ignition on the 'Ign' terminal. I'd run fuses downstream of the key switch to both of those. You are getting juice from the battery and/or regulator rectifier to the key switch. It then goes to the ignition, and when you want, the lights. To further simplify, you can put a toggle switch on the headlight bucket to switch between lo and high beams. With no turn signals, all that would be left on the handlebars would be the horn button (connected to the 'Acc' lead if you run with the lights on all the time). Use the key as a kill switch. And you can take it a step further, and ditch the decompression crap. Just use one of the manual ones like RYCA sells. Might get a bit tricky using the hand-job ones, as you'd be turning the key with one hand, and holding the decomp with the other. Really tricky if you stalled in gear ::) -Armen |
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Title: Re: Start With Key Wiring Post by Jeremy on 06/19/16 at 06:48:14 Yeah, it's an automotive style switch. Off / On / Start, with a spring loaded return to On. http://https://photos.smugmug.com/Other/Savage/i-h6bvvpT/0/O/Screen%20Shot%202016-06-11%20at%2011.17.58%20AM.png I was basing my wiring off of this generic diagram... http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=34798.0;attach=50968;image Planning on using a Posh Mini toggle switch for the headlight. Not sure about turn signals yet. Planning to mount the ignition switch underneath the seat. |
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Title: Re: Start With Key Wiring Post by Armen on 06/19/16 at 07:55:14 Are there 2 'on' positions? One for just running and one for running with lights? |
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Title: Re: Start With Key Wiring Post by Armen on 06/19/16 at 07:58:37 On the older cars, there was an 'Acc' position which energized lights, radio, etc, but not ignition. This looks like one of those. Poke around with a continuity meter. If that is the case, run the ignition on the 'Acc' leg, so that the bike can run in that position, then add the other stuff to the 'Ign' leg. This way you canon with no lights (if you want), or at least let it warm up without the lighting load and charge at idle. |
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Title: Re: Start With Key Wiring Post by Jeremy on 06/19/16 at 08:32:43 Yup, off position, on position, and momentary start. I'm assuming if you move the key to On without going to the third "momentary start", it'll power the lights and stuff. |
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Title: Re: Start With Key Wiring Post by Armen on 06/19/16 at 09:04:29 If it is just the 3 positions-off/on/start, then it doesn't much matter what you wire all the non-starter stuff to. |
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Title: Re: Start With Key Wiring Post by Armen on 06/19/16 at 09:14:23 You sure about that? The blueprint seems to say 4 positions. Off/Acc/run/start |
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Title: Re: Start With Key Wiring Post by Jeremy on 06/19/16 at 11:48:58 D'oh! I'll have to look at the actual switch again. |
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Title: Re: Start With Key Wiring Post by WD on 06/19/16 at 21:28:26 A 3 position switch only energizes the ignition system and starter (solenoid if so equipped). Requires a separate start button/pedal/knob. You want the generic 60A 4 position heavy duty switch. Run a 20A circuit breaker or fuse between battery and switch. Wire the starter solenoid to ign post, everything else to the run post. If you get confused, the wiring diagram for a Slant 6 Dodge engine is close enough, post 1974 with electronic ignition only. A post 1973 Ford diagram works as well. Easiest way? Buy the mc specific switch. Check with LowBrow Customs or similar. |
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Title: Re: Start With Key Wiring Post by Jeremy on 06/20/16 at 06:01:49 1D2E3139325C0 wrote:
I guess it's 4 positions, but 3 physical key positions. Off, on, and the spring loaded Start. |
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Title: Re: Start With Key Wiring Post by Dave on 06/20/16 at 06:59:07 The key switch has 3 positions according to the diagram. In the OFF position the key can be removed and nothing is connected in a circuit. If the switch is turned 40 degrees the battery terminal is connected to the ACC & IGN teminal. The next 40 degree rotation of the switch is spring loaded.....and the ACC & IGN stay connected - but and the starter circuit is energized until you release the the key to rotate back to the ON position. I am really not sure why you wouldn't want to use a starter switch up on the handlebar that you can push with your thumb.....if you stall this bike at an intersection it is going to take some real gymnastics to get the bike started again.....as they are just not enough hands to hold in the clutch with your left hand, the throttle with your right hand.....and then somehow get to the key switch. |
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Title: Re: Start With Key Wiring Post by Jeremy on 06/20/16 at 07:27:49 Not necessarily opposed to a handlebar mounted button. Now that I've cleaned up all the mess where the battery and air box used to be, I don't have any good way to mount the stock ignition switch. The one I bought can be mounted in a hole drilled in the tray I fabbed under the seat. Figured as long as I was re-doing everything, I might as well start the bike with the key. |
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Title: Re: Start With Key Wiring Post by justin_o_guy2 on 06/20/16 at 12:59:04 Dave's point is valid. That you have a switch that won't do what you need is not something to let get you in an unsafe position. What happens if you stall it on seriously uneven ground? And you screwed up and stopped in third? You need to fire it up and get out of the way. Left foot on the ground. Right, working the shifter. Left hand, clutch, and starter button Right hand, gas and brake. If the start button is anywhere else, you're in a bad situation. Okay, you're going Already in a bad situation, but it just got wurser. I hung the left peg in a pothole doing a u turn. Stalled in oncoming traffic, fired up, ran down the gears and hauled butt. |
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Title: Re: Start With Key Wiring Post by Kris01 on 06/20/16 at 16:29:08 081711160B0C3D0D3D05171B50620 wrote:
You been riding English bikes or something, JOG? ;D |
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Title: Re: Start With Key Wiring Post by justin_o_guy2 on 06/20/16 at 18:06:40 I guess,, dang.. I hope if I get to ride again my feet are smarter than my head. |
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Title: Re: Start With Key Wiring Post by Kris01 on 06/20/16 at 18:22:54 That's ok. I downshifted the other day trying to go from 2nd to 3rd. My foot knows better. I think it was just feeling rebellious! |
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