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Message started by Spedie on 04/28/16 at 06:09:38

Title: Battery Change Steps
Post by Spedie on 04/28/16 at 06:09:38

I own a 2013 S40.  It has 2100 miles on it. I bought it used at just over 500 miles nearly two years ago. I had the 600 mile service done at a Suzuki dealer.

I own a trickle charger and have not been using it like I should lately.  I last rode the bike about a month ago for a good 150 miles and it was fine.  It has nearly a full tank of gas because I filled it up right before I parked it.

I went out yesterday to start her up and it turned a time or two, then nothing.  I put it on the trickle charger overnight. I tried again this morning.  The lights come on but when I go to start it...nothing.  Yes, I made sure the right hand switch was not in the "kill position".  The kickstand was up. The bike was in first gear and I had the clutch engaged.

I noticed this morning that as soon as I tried to start it that the lights immediately dimmed greatly and stayed that way.

I took off the seat.  I opened the accessory box and removed it to expose the battery. I have not removed the battery until I gain some knowledge as I don't want to pull on any wire and make things worse.

I checked the white box that houses the 20 amp fuse and both fuses in there looks good.

The battery is original.  I am headed off to the store to get a new battery.

I do not have much experience changing batteries out in this bike. It seems to me that the negative wire will be hard to get to. I can see the red, positive wire at the top of the battery.

Any suggestions for battery removal?  If the new battery doesn't work (I'll charge it up first) then I will post and ask what I should check next.

I have all basic tools but I do not own a meter.

English is my primary language.  I bought the bike in Missouri and had it shipped to southern Texas.  The bike has been in Texas since November 2015. The bike has always been garaged while in my possession. It looks like a brand new bike. I have made no modifications mechanically.  I have added only a windshield.

Title: Re: Battery Change Steps
Post by jajke on 04/28/16 at 06:42:59

I have a 2002 model and the repair manual recommends disconnecting the Negative first and then the Positive; to reconnect do it in reverse order: Positive first then Negative.
Hope this helps!

Title: Re: Battery Change Steps
Post by Spedie on 04/28/16 at 06:56:39

It seems that I cannot reach the negative lead without first pulling the battery out.  Is it OK to go ahead and pull it out before disconnecting the negative?

I will disconnect positive last.

Title: Re: Battery Change Steps
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 04/28/16 at 07:14:46

If it's Truly the OEM battery, then, yeah, I wouldn't even mess with testing it. It's probably very low on water, and it's Old.
Consider the glass mat type. Big Crank was the hot ticket a few years ago, notvsure what the latest and greatest is today.
Recommend you shop around. And be sure to get one with the proper orientation of the terminals.

Trickle chargers/float chargers won't raise the dead.
I've recently revived a battery that was seriously dead..
Hit it with a charger, 8 amp,took an hour for i t to even start taking a charge. I keep a volt meter on the connections, unplug the charger and check the battery voltage. Then, hook up the battery tester, hit the button, load the battery, just for a second..

Charge it up.
Rinse and repeat.
It took quite a few hours, but, it's working, it's on a mower and it was much neglected.

The battery tester is under twenty bucks at harbor freight.
Volt meter is sometimes free with purchase, and not exactly the best, but, good enough for messing with a battery.

As old as yours is, naaah.. time for a new one.

A mower battery can fail and I'm not exactly stranded.
I always kept a healthy battery on the bike. That's just not a place for cutting corners.

Title: Re: Battery Change Steps
Post by verslagen1 on 04/28/16 at 07:40:57

look again, you should be able to get to the neg term from the left side.
May take a long screwdriver.
May have to take the seat and left cover off.

Title: Re: Battery Change Steps
Post by Art Webb on 04/28/16 at 07:54:02

the reason for removing the neg first is because it provides ground for the bike
if you remove pos first and your wrench touches metal it may short the system and fry the battery, maybe lightly weld your wrench to the metal you touched, and blow a fuse or three
other than that, removing pos first has no consequence

Title: Re: Battery Change Steps
Post by pam on 04/28/16 at 07:54:48

Use and off set screwdriver ... thats what i did ,,

Title: Re: Battery Change Steps
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 04/28/16 at 08:10:26

IIRC I was able to move the cover to the left just enough to get a screwdriver in on the connection on the right s i de.
Ideally, negative is removed first, connected last.

Title: Re: Battery Change Steps
Post by Serowbot on 04/28/16 at 08:51:30

Yup, remove the negative first...unless you want things to get sparky... :o

Title: Re: Battery Change Steps
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 04/28/16 at 09:03:22

And sparks near a battery can get ugly, real ugly and OMG Fast.

Title: Re: Battery Change Steps
Post by verslagen1 on 04/28/16 at 09:13:03

In a pinch, put tubing on the tool you're using to prevent shorts.

Title: Re: Battery Change Steps
Post by Rayven on 04/28/16 at 10:08:00

I made the sparky mistake once  ;) ...luckily I didn't hurt anything, but the screw driver has looked a little funky ever since  ;D

Title: Re: Battery Change Steps
Post by Spedie on 04/28/16 at 10:15:43

I have the battery out of the bike.  The battery that was on there was the type you must put distilled water in.  All cells were dry. I had no idea to check this once in awhile.  It was several steps to get that blasted battery free from the location.

I bought a new battery after getting the part number and it is an exact match to my original battery. It is outside on a rubber mat charging on the trickle charger.  It is the sealed water kind.

I got the top of the battery box off on the left hand side to expose the negative lead. I had to buy a number 1 GearWrench to get it off. I don't know why they call this tool such a thing. The gear wrench is basically a phillips on one end and a straight screwdriver on the other - with a 90 degree bend on both ends.  It came in a two pack with different sizes. I was able to use the smaller one to get that blasted screw out of the top left side of the top part of the battery box.

After that, I was able to disconnect and free up the negative lead and slide the battery out - after disconnecting the positive before moving the battery.

I removed both 20 amp fuses before touching the battery - to keep them from blowing while I reinstall if I do something stupid.

I hope this thread helps someone in the future.

I will report back with any issues once the charged battery is hooked up.

Thank you everyone!  I am a total newbie with this bike - although I owned a Savage back in the 80's.


Title: Re: Battery Change Steps
Post by Kris01 on 04/28/16 at 12:17:31

My '08 is running the stock battery and I have no problems with it. Do I need to be checking the water in it or is it sealed? You've got me worried now! I don't want to be stranded!   :-?

Title: Re: Battery Change Steps
Post by Spedie on 04/28/16 at 12:22:09

Kris01:  I would definitely check your battery out. I don't know if it is just the newer bikes (mine is a 2013) that has the crappy battery as stock.

I read today that most motorcycle batteries don't last more than 2 or 3 years.  However, there are exceptions to every rule.

Title: Re: Battery Change Steps
Post by norm92de on 04/28/16 at 14:09:10

When I got my 2014 s40 the first thing I checked was the battery.
The Suzuki "dealer" didn't connect the breather pipe and even in a  few miles it was dripping acid, also the distilled water needed to be topped off!!!

Needless to say they will never touch my bike again. >:(

Title: Re: Battery Change Steps
Post by KennyG on 04/28/16 at 14:14:54

Norm,

I had the same experience when I bought my S40.

The battery only had about an inch of liquid in the bottom.

The tires had about 5 or 6 LB of air in them.

The carburetor was clogged up so bad I had to disassemble it and clean it to get the bike running properly.

The Suzuki dealer fully serviced the bike before they delivered it and stole the tool kit.  LOL

Kenny G

Title: Re: Battery Change Steps
Post by norm92de on 04/28/16 at 14:31:48

Kenny,
It is hard to believe that a business would expect you to return with the sloppy treatment we received. :(

Title: Re: Battery Change Steps
Post by norm92de on 04/28/16 at 14:51:14

Kenny,
Another thought.

It is easy for us, since we have some experience but what happens to a complete newbie?
What about a really modern electrobike? I don't think I would like to dive into fly by wire. :'(

Title: Re: Battery Change Steps
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 04/28/16 at 15:14:09

If people wanna buy something that requires an electrical engineering degree to work on, that's their business.
Me? I like old stuff. Or, old designs, anyway.
I wish my 87 F150 wasn't injected...

Title: Re: Battery Change Steps
Post by norm92de on 04/28/16 at 15:20:59

Jog,
I hear you: my Triumph is just like the Zuki, carbs and all.

I'm just a dumb old fart but I can fix anything that goes wrong with my bikes. I can't quite say that about my cars. :'(

Title: Re: Battery Change Steps
Post by Kris01 on 04/28/16 at 17:01:37


607F797E63645565556D7F73380A0 wrote:
I wish my 87 F150 wasn't injected...


Had an '89 for a while. It was beat to death as a work truck. Still ran as good as new! Built Ford tough!!  ;)

Title: Re: Battery Change Steps
Post by KennyG on 04/28/16 at 17:08:54

Norm,

The only way I would buy a modern motorcycle in my area would be a Harley, because they do have really good service departments for those that can afford them.

I go to the Harley shop almost every Saturday for lunch and all the riders there just rave about how good the service department is.

Kenny

Title: Re: Battery Change Steps
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 04/28/16 at 17:39:57

Hmmm,,  not sure I want a bike that has its cheering squad excited about how good the mechanics are. Personally, I wish the pharmacist didn't know my name. What does it say about the bike if you're having lunch with the mechanics?
My bike saw the dealership twice.

Uhh, we can't get it to do what you are saying.

Thankfully, it stopped doing that eventually.

Title: Re: Battery Change Steps
Post by norm92de on 04/28/16 at 18:16:47

Kenny,
I have never owned a Harley, they are too heavy and expensive for me.

When I see one on the road the low revving loping power sounds good.

Title: Re: Battery Change Steps
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 04/28/16 at 19:02:40

You can put a tool on the positive side and slam it on the frame and the fuses won't know. The current flow isn't through the fuse. But the tool ain't gonna be happy. Snot good for the bat tree, either. Just an all round bad idea.
It's good to be able to check the battery voltage.
It's bad to not have water in them.
The darn thing is hard to get to, there is a slot in the battery box   that allows inspection of One whole cell, IF you can get some light behind it. PHHHT, funk shun less..
And, getting water In? Yeah, good luck.  Need a veterinarian type syringe..

Title: Re: Battery Change Steps
Post by norm92de on 04/28/16 at 19:18:55

I installed a Battery Tender pigtail on my Suzuki for charging, it is also good for checking voltage.

I like the battery tender charging system. Some people are not as much of  fan as me, but it has worked out so far. I haven't had a battery let me down in a long time.

Title: Re: Battery Change Steps
Post by Art Webb on 04/28/16 at 19:47:35


4F6C797875791C0 wrote:
I got the top of the battery box off on the left hand side to expose the negative lead. I had to buy a number 1 GearWrench to get it off. I don't know why they call this tool such a thing. The gear wrench is basically a phillips on one end and a straight screwdriver on the other - with a 90 degree bend on both ends.  

Sounds like a Gear wrench brand offset screwdriver, phillips / straight
the actual tool called a gearwrench is a combination wrench with a box end that ratchets, like a socket wrench, or that was the original tool they introduced, the brand now make all sorts of tools
I have a full set of early stubbies like that, made by matco, my shop foreman had the actual GearWrench brand
almost impossible to get the thermostat out of a 95-2001 Lumina with the 3.1 V6 without one of those babies in 13 mm IIRC

Title: Re: Battery Change Steps
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 04/28/16 at 21:09:41

I have a wobble socket that is stubbier than any other I've seen. You will Not get the end bolt on a six cylinder Mack manifold without it. No wrench will get in, no standard socket, nothing. I called a big truck shop and a mechanic told me to call the Mac tool man.. He brought it to me.. I've never needed it for anything since.

Title: Re: Battery Change Steps
Post by Boofer on 04/28/16 at 22:07:32

I have a 2001 LS650P. Here is how I change the battery.

1. Take off the seat and the left side cover.
2. Use your key to open the chrome battery cover on the right side.
3. Notice the 2 screws at the bottom and 1 screw at the top of the bracket holding the battery in. PAY ATTENTION to the orientation of the bracket and locking arm for the tool pouch cover.
4. Use a 4" or longer screwdriver to remove the battery leads from the top--negative first. (If you have a pigtail wired in, it may be necessary to remove the right side cover for convenience and a little room.)
5. Slide the battery out the right side keeping an eye on the overflow tube, if equipped. It needs to go back to keep acid liquid or fumes off your frame. (Unless you get an Absorbed Glass Mat or similar design battery.)
6. IMPORTANT. Charge your new battery according to instructions BEFORE installing it. Skipping this step will cause premature battery failure.
7. Installation is reverse. Attach negative cable last for safety.

I believe that is all. But I am old, so I assume no responsibility for a really bad outcome.  :'(

Title: Re: Battery Change Steps
Post by Kris01 on 04/29/16 at 17:12:56


7978657A2E257372170 wrote:
I installed a Battery Tender pigtail on my Suzuki for charging, it is also good for checking voltage.


I have one. That's good to know.  ;D

Title: Re: Battery Change Steps
Post by Dave on 05/02/16 at 05:03:22


754C574D0E0F3E0 wrote:
[quote author=7978657A2E257372170 link=1461848978/15#26 date=1461896335]I installed a Battery Tender pigtail on my Suzuki for charging, it is also good for checking voltage.


I have one. That's good to know.  ;D[/quote]

These work in your tender pigtail!

http://www.batterymart.com/p-081-0157-digital-voltage-indicator-lcd.html?gclid=COXh49Gsu8wCFVNZhgodto0N3g

http://www.advdesigns.com/bateusbch.html?gclid=CKrB1vCsu8wCFQZkhgodenYBTg

Title: Re: Battery Change Steps
Post by Kris01 on 05/02/16 at 19:35:42

Thanks Dave.

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