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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Tuning /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1456018869 Message started by cheapnewb24 on 02/20/16 at 17:41:09 |
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Title: Tuning Post by cheapnewb24 on 02/20/16 at 17:41:09 I've been doing some tuning on my Savage lately. I swapped the 145 main for a 150. I started to go for a 147.5, but the amount of trouble I had changing the jet, I went ahead with the 150. I currently the 3 washer spacer mod with stock air and exhaust. I worried that it was a bit rich, but it's better slightly rich full throttle than lean, right? :-/ She's got plenty of power and takes off like a rocket, but don't most people with 150's have air/exhaust mods? I am at 1000-2000 ft, but the weather is still cool which would compensate. :-/ I can tell the difference, particularly in the sound. The last bit of throttle had more of a dry sound before, now it's more gurgly. Not sure about pulling. It might pull better on the last bit of throttle than before. It still pulls alright with the enrichment knob all the way out, but part throttle seems to suffer noticeably. The greatest difference the enrichment gives is in the idle circuit. Running with enrichment does seem make the engine run smoother, but hurts idle and may hurt power. I do know one thing... I used a lot of gas. ::) Started going up the mountain, and it felt weak, so I pulled over and turned around to a flat spot and checked the oil. When I put it on reserve, the idle sped up. Then I checked the tank. There was some gas still visible, but there was a lot of bare metal down there. When I filled the tank (spilling over), it came to around 2.3 gal. Might have gotten 100 miles out of it. Not positive of the exact number. I guess running the snot out of it hurts gas mileage. ;D Another thing is that, when warm, it often knocks upon cranking. Does this mean it's getting too hot, or is the idle mixture just too lean, or does everyone have that? :-/ I've been working on the suspension again. This time the rear shocks. By the way, my homemade fork oil is working fine. ;D On the other hand, I wish it had a better VI. In freezing temps it was a bit too stiff. Now, since temps are milder, I wish it were stiffer. :-/ I guess that's the way it always is. Anyway, I've been messing with the rear shock settings. I noticed that if you turn it too far, it'll reset itself to zero. That doesn't hurt anything, does it? :-/ I really liked the stiffest setting, but I was worried that if I set it too stiff compared to the front, I would encourage a wobble. :(. I tried all the way out (softest), and that was nice, but I felt like I could feel the increased squat. It's kinda like sitting in the bike as opposed to sitting on it. I liked the firm support of the stiffest setting, but it also worried me that it didn't squat much when I sat on it. When set a click below firmest, I got good support, but the ride seemed rough. I seemed to feel more bumps. Could it ride better firm or soft and worse in between? It's probably just me. ;) The front has a huge amount of travel and is soft, but the rear doesn't have much at all. If I set it firm for support, will I cause a suspension imbalance? Should I make pvc spacers for the front forks and put in even thicker oil? Should I just get some used Progressive Sportster shocks from Ebay? Do those cheap used shocks tend to have issues... like being worn out? I am considering the 140/90 tire. Do I need to use the firmest setting for that or, better yet, get some taller shocks? I weigh around 200 lb, by the way. |
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Title: Re: Tuning Post by cheapnewb24 on 02/20/16 at 17:52:55 And, please, for the sake of all Savage owners, and humanity, if it's not already there in the tech documents, let them know this: When changing the main jet, be very careful not to push the needle jet up into the carb, or you'll likely end up removing the whole carb like I did. That thing drove me crazy! >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( I tried to do it by just removing the bowl. It took me a long time of futile efforts trying to screw the main jet into a hole that it couldn't reach. >:(. I even lost my washer and jet a time or two and had to straighten the washer after it got bent. After I figured out what happened, I tried to use dental hooks to pull it down, to no avail. It not only was pushed up there, but also turned so that the pin would not align with its slot. Had to take the thing off and take it apart. I think I even bent my float a little. :( I think it's okay now. Interesting how such a little thing can ruin everything. :-? Should have been a simple procedure, but it turned into open heart surgery (slight exagerration ;)). ::) At least I coated the new bowl gasket with petroleum jelly for easy removal. 8-) Another awesome bonus--No leaks!!!! :) [smiley=thumbsup.gif] |
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Title: Re: Tuning Post by cheapnewb24 on 02/20/16 at 18:06:50 Another thing, the shifting is getting (I'm not sure if I'm using the word correctly) notchy. It sometimes doesn't want to downshift smoothly--well, at nearly a stop, anyway. The pedal will go down but no shift. I guess that means it needs an oil change? That's what people mean by "notchy?" I don't have very many miles on the oil. Maybe it needed a flush? :-/ Maybe running it hard got it dirty? :-/ Am I getting it too hot? Does that cause bad shifting? I have the constant issue of mud getting in the cooling fins. My driveway stays muddy. I wonder if I should have said that... Now everyone will automatically blame all my problems on mud in fins, right? ::) How do air-cooled dirt bikes survive? |
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Title: Re: Tuning Post by Kris01 on 02/20/16 at 19:36:40 To fix my shifting "problems" I learned to not coast with the clutch pulled in. Shift immediately after squeezing the clutch. If you get stuck in between gears then let off the clutch a little and let the bike roll (push it, if you have to, at red lights and such) and then it should smoothly engage the gears. Motorcycle transmissions are not as smooth and forgiving as car transmissions. ;) |
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Title: Re: Tuning Post by oldNslow on 02/20/16 at 19:50:02 Quote:
With lots of cooling fins, loose tolerances, and fairly low compression ratios. Which is why almost all modern, high performance,dirt bike engines are liquid cooled. |
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Title: Re: Tuning Post by gizzo on 02/20/16 at 22:21:37 Check the shifter rod isn't bent, the ball joints move nicely and give everything a bit of lube. And when you shift down gears, you are matching revs with a little blip of throttle to speed the engine up to the new gearbox speed? And this might sound crazy but I get smoother shifts on my older bikes by lifting the clutch lever as I pull it in. Dunno if it gets a smidge of extra pull by compensating for the worn out perch and pin or its psychosomatic but there it is. The new bikes don't seem to make a difference. FWIW Suzuki are not famous for butter smooth transmissons. They do make hella strong ones though. If you loosen the two big hose clamps on the carb you can rotate the whole thing enough to remove the float bowl and work on it easily. |
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Title: Re: Tuning Post by Serowbot on 02/20/16 at 22:23:25 Gas mileage... There's a tendency, when you make performance changes... to try them out... Vroom Vroom... ;D... That might explain the excess fuel usage... Give yourself a week or so to calm down... A richer mix, will use a bit more... (there are no free power gains)... but wait and see... Stiffer rear shock preload,... will transfer weight forward... and that won't increase wobble... When wobble happens,.. you want to increase weight forward... |
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Title: Re: Tuning Post by cheapnewb24 on 02/21/16 at 06:31:54 Interesting... Keep it coming. There's a lot to talk about. |
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Title: Re: Tuning Post by justin_o_guy2 on 02/21/16 at 08:17:44 Look at Bots mudflap. That boy has a fine mudflap, And a purdy mouf. |
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Title: Re: Tuning Post by Art Webb on 02/21/16 at 09:09:01 7462756870656873070 wrote:
well darn, maybe I needed even more preload on my S40 |
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Title: Re: Tuning Post by Tocsik on 02/21/16 at 12:03:38 716B6F6D6C52637076706B666567020 wrote:
which direction is easiest/best to rotate the carb with this method? Bowl toward the shifter or bowl toward the rear brake pedal? I ask because my carb rides against my battery box and I have to take apart a buncha stuff to get the carb off. and JOG, if i'da been drinking anything, it woulda shot out my nose. ;D |
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Title: Re: Tuning Post by verslagen1 on 02/21/16 at 12:08:45 724945554F4D260 wrote:
which direction is easiest/best to rotate the carb with this method? Bowl toward the shifter or bowl toward the rear brake pedal? I ask because my carb rides against my battery box and I have to take apart a buncha stuff to get the carb off.[/quote] simple method to get the bat box outta the way... hook a ratchet strap to the top right shock mount run it around the bat box and put the other hook on the axle. tighten till you got a little clearance. |
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Title: Re: Tuning Post by cheapnewb24 on 02/21/16 at 21:56:40 Any other comments? Is a 150 good for stock setup, or is that too rich for my altitude? Is a "crack" upon warm cranking a sign of lean idle mixture or overheating? Or is it something everyone deals with? |
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Title: Re: Tuning Post by Kris01 on 02/22/16 at 07:14:33 At your altitude it may run great while it's cold outside. Once the weather turns warm you may be slightly rich. Only time will tell. Each engine is a little different. I'm running a 150 main at probably 100-200 ft ASL. It's slightly lean in the winter but runs great on those hot humid days. |
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Title: Re: Tuning Post by cheapnewb24 on 02/22/16 at 21:36:35 I sometimes hear/feel a "thunk, thunk" when pulling out. Is the belt jumping teeth? |
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Title: Re: Tuning Post by gizzo on 02/23/16 at 03:21:03 Oh wow, if ever there was an opening for a dirty joke, there it was... |
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Title: Re: Tuning Post by justin_o_guy2 on 02/23/16 at 04:30:43 JOG, if i'da been drinking anything, it woulda shot out my nose. Grin.. Our job here is done, Tonto, let's go. |
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Title: Re: Tuning Post by cheapnewb24 on 02/23/16 at 19:02:31 ;D :-? What! You're kidding! ;D :-? Just like that, huh? I do suspect that my belt is jumping teeth, though. Either that, or something in the rear hub is a rye. It started a long time ago when I would hear a single thunk when goosing it hard pulling out. Now it's making the sound more than once on some relatively easy throttle pulls. Belt squeaks too. :P Maybe I should get one of those chain drive thingy's :P ::) Ahh, but money, money, money! ::) |
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Title: Re: Tuning Post by justin_o_guy2 on 02/23/16 at 19:42:08 444F424657494250451513270 wrote:
Are you the only one hearing/feeling this Thumping when pulling out? What does it sound like during insertion? |
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Title: Re: Tuning Post by justin_o_guy2 on 02/23/16 at 19:45:05 Visual inspection. Belt teeth are tall. It's gonna hafta be a Super loose belt to do that. Check the front pulley and belt tension. |
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Title: Re: Tuning Post by cheapnewb24 on 02/23/16 at 20:17:17 I think I finally fully understand the joke, and dirty it is.... :-? and graphic... :-? One reply to that-- I wish! Like Kenny's avatar says, suzukisavage.com is the singles club! :P The belt? I adjusted the tension before. Maybe my judgement is too far on the easy side tension-wise. |
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Title: Re: Tuning Post by Serowbot on 02/23/16 at 21:23:21 You better check the front pulley nut... if that goes, switching to chain drive won't save you... |
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Title: Re: Tuning Post by gizzo on 02/24/16 at 02:57:42 584B5C5D424F494B401F2E0 wrote:
which direction is easiest/best to rotate the carb with this method? Bowl toward the shifter or bowl toward the rear brake pedal? I ask because my carb rides against my battery box and I have to take apart a buncha stuff to get the carb off.[/quote] simple method to get the bat box outta the way... hook a ratchet strap to the top right shock mount run it around the bat box and put the other hook on the axle. tighten till you got a little clearance.[/quote] Sorry for that bum steer, guys. I completely forgot about the battery box being in the way. Mine is gone, and a little lithium battery taking about half the room makes it possible to get the bowl off. My bad. |
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