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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Wiring Question /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1444349679 Message started by laurenthegold on 10/08/15 at 17:14:39 |
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Title: Wiring Question Post by laurenthegold on 10/08/15 at 17:14:39 Bought a momentary switch with an LED for my starter switch as I'm relocating it. The switch has 5 terminals: + (for the LED), -, NC, NO, and C. I originally wired it so the LED stayed on but like the idea of the LED activating when the bike's in neutral instead. Guessing I can use the neutral wire to the speedo but am not sure which terminal on the switch to wire to. Any ideas? |
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Title: Re: Wiring Question Post by justin_o_guy2 on 10/08/15 at 18:03:10 You got a multimeter? And the neutral light gets ground when the transmission is in neutral. LEDS are picky about polarity. |
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Title: Re: Wiring Question Post by laurenthegold on 10/08/15 at 21:30:14 I do. So if the neutral light activates when the transmission goes into neutral would I then connect the LED's ground to the neutral? |
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Title: Re: Wiring Question Post by justin_o_guy2 on 10/08/15 at 22:00:47 Without studying the manual/ wiring diagram, I'm gonna say yeah. The wire travels up, on the right side of the engine. I wanna say it's blue. Of course, tying in somewhere closer to the switch and out of sight would probably be the best. |
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Title: Re: Wiring Question Post by laurenthegold on 10/08/15 at 22:20:16 Yeah, wire's blue. I'm installing the switch in the speedo where the neutral was so I'll just remove the light's wiring and re-use it. Thanks! |
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Title: Re: Wiring Question Post by laurenthegold on 10/12/15 at 08:56:16 If I want to eliminate the side stand switch and the clutch switch can I just pull the connecting wires from the connectors? Or do I have to ground them out? I'm terrible with electricity... |
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Title: Re: Wiring Question Post by Serowbot on 10/12/15 at 08:58:49 You have to jumper them together... |
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Title: Re: Wiring Question Post by laurenthegold on 10/12/15 at 09:07:30 On the 95 the side stand switch has a green wire and a black/white wire. Am I to connect those 2 wires together to eliminate the switch? |
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Title: Re: Wiring Question Post by justin_o_guy2 on 10/12/15 at 09:14:05 You gotta lie to the bike. You've got to make the bike Think the kickstand is up, all the time. Now, if it's down But the bike is in neutral, it doesn't care, but when it's in gear, and the stand is down, it's just gonna shut off. Suggest you get a cheap multimeter, you'll need to check things and a classy one, well, why spend money on something you don't really know how to use and could wreck by hooking it up wrong? Everyone started off not knowing, about everything. Here is a good place to learn. |
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Title: Re: Wiring Question Post by laurenthegold on 10/12/15 at 10:03:40 I think I got it... Don't remove the connections from the circuit but jump them at the switch. |
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Title: Re: Wiring Question Post by Dave on 10/12/15 at 10:13:06 34392D2A3D362C303D3F37343C580 wrote:
The wiring system needs to have a "completed circuit" for the electricity to pass through and tell the bike that things are "OK". That either needs to be by having the switch in the "closed" position by pulling in the clutch or pulling up the kickstand......or by removing the wire connections from the switch and connecting the wires together. The exception to this is the neutral light - the blue wire goes to the switch which grounds the circuit when the bike is in neutral. |
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Title: Re: Wiring Question Post by laurenthegold on 10/12/15 at 10:58:59 This is how I wired the new start switch. |
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Title: Re: Wiring Question Post by laurenthegold on 10/27/15 at 15:27:35 95 LS650 So I thought "cleaning up" the wiring harness would be easy-ish. Probably is but I've done something horribly wrong and am blowing fuses as soon as the battery is connected (without key in ignition even). To start: I replaced the start switch with a LED momentary switch. I connected the orange/white wire that ran to the ignition coil, ignitor, and engine stop switch to the "common" and the yellow/green wire from the clutch lever to the "normally open". I then connected the black/blue wire from the side stand diode (ran to the neutral indicator) to "-" and the orange wire from the neutral indicator to the "+". Don't know if that is working yet b/c the fuse keeps blowing ;D I also changed the start/stop switch to a lighted rocker switch with the orange/white wire connected to the 1, the orange/black wire connected to the 2, and a ground on the 3. I also replaced the original turn signal switch housing with a smaller housing but am 85% sure I have that wired up correctly... I grounded everything else exactly as shown in the wiring diagram... I'm an electrical noob and shouldn't have messed with the harness at all but you can't tell me nothing ;D ;D ;D If anyone has an advice I would be greatly appreciative! |
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Title: Re: Wiring Question Post by verslagen1 on 10/27/15 at 18:41:27 1st thing to do is to pull the blown fuses and replace it with a 12v light. you can use the blown fuse to make a connector and any instrument light with wires attached. http://newcontent.westmarine.com/content/images/catalog/full/343725.jpg HF also has one... http://www.harborfreight.com/30-amp-automotive-fuse-circuit-tester.html http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_14146.jpg on sale $14, brb. ;D |
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Title: Re: Wiring Question Post by laurenthegold on 11/01/15 at 21:27:37 ;D ;D ;D I had the battery leads reversed ;D ;D ;D I'm using the battery tender clamps connected to a pig-tail adapter and at the connection point the wires reversed but I didn't realize it. Fixed it and all is well! Well, except my headlight's not on but that shouldn't be difficult to track down. |
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Title: Re: Wiring Question Post by laurenthegold on 11/01/15 at 21:50:30 Scratch that... When the rear brake light switch is activated the brake light and headlight both go out and then the "main" fuse blows :o |
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Title: Re: Wiring Question Post by justin_o_guy2 on 11/01/15 at 21:58:34 Take the bulb out , switch off, check the base connections in the socket to ground. See if you have a short. |
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Title: Re: Wiring Question Post by laurenthegold on 11/01/15 at 22:13:25 Unplugged the taillight. Still blowing a fuse. It's wired exactly as in the diagram. Bad brake switch? |
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Title: Re: Wiring Question Post by laurenthegold on 11/01/15 at 22:52:47 Front brake switch activates the tail light without blowing fuse. |
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Title: Re: Wiring Question Post by laurenthegold on 11/01/15 at 23:38:54 Turn signals not working either. Friggn heck. |
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Title: Re: Wiring Question Post by justin_o_guy2 on 11/02/15 at 18:42:37 445B5D5A4740714171495B571C2E0 wrote:
Ohm meter, from the power connection to ground. May need to pull out all the bulbs on the back end. Had the seat off lately? Done anything ? |
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Title: Re: Wiring Question Post by laurenthegold on 11/02/15 at 18:51:54 Well what had happened was... I got into the harness to relocate the start switch and the kill switch. Thinking back now the rear brake switch didn't work before, I just thought the cable needed adjusting. The start switch and kill switch work as planned. The only real problem is the rear brake switch. When activated, it cuts out the headlight and brake light and then some times blows a fuse. I'm guessing the switch is bad. |
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Title: Re: Wiring Question Post by chzeckmate on 11/02/15 at 23:36:26 You know, you could use a test light to check this. If you put the leads of the test light on each blade of an already blown fuse and then insert the fuse into it's socket, you can check these things one by one without blowing any more fuses...or you could get a multimeter and test them at the sources. |
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Title: Re: Wiring Question Post by Dave on 11/03/15 at 03:09:34 0D001413040F150904060E0D05610 wrote:
Most likely the switch is working fine....as nothing blows until you activate the switch. One wire coming to the switch has power, the other wire goes to the brake light. Unplug the wires from the switch, and then connect them - if the lights dim and the fuse blows.....then you know you have a direct short in the wire that goes from the switch to the brake light.....or you have the wire connected to the wrong wire on the tail light....or something is wrong with your tail/brake light. |
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Title: Re: Wiring Question Post by justin_o_guy2 on 11/03/15 at 15:17:54 Since you said you Went into the wiring harness that's where I would start. First thing you know is, when the brake pedal gets pushed, fuse pops. What if you pull the hand brake? Should do the same thing, I'd guess. If you don't have a wiring diagram, it's available, free, online. And I don't know how I would have survived without a test light and an ohm meter. I do know there are some guys here who can solve some serious problems with just a darn test light, but I ain't one of those guys, dangit. They can probably dance, too. |
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Title: Re: Wiring Question Post by laurenthegold on 11/03/15 at 16:49:14 Only thing popping the fuse and cutting the headlight off is the rear brake switch. Front brake switch works fine. Got an aftermarket switch housing for my dimmer and turn signals so that may be why the signals aren't working. Possibly wired wrong. Housing didn't come with a diagram. I opened it up and wired as it looked but it may just be a crap product. It was pretty cheap lol Using my old neutral light as a test light. Going to test it again now. |
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Title: Re: Wiring Question Post by Steve H on 11/03/15 at 20:11:50 With the wires off the switch, you should get continuity between the two terminals when you press the pedal. There should be no continuity otherwise. Also make sure that neither goes to ground with or without the pedal being mashed. If either pole of the switch grounds, you found a bad switch. If it passes these tests, the switch is good. One lead coming to the switch should be hot. Given that you can blow a fuse with it, I'd say it is. Check the other lead for a connection to ground without the bulb installed. If you read a connection to ground, you've got a short in that wire. In the factory harness, the wire from the front brake light switch and the rear switch connect together to one wire that goes to the back to the light so if there were a ground in it, either brake should blow the fuse. Has a separate wire been run from either switch to the light? |
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Title: Re: Wiring Question Post by laurenthegold on 11/05/15 at 15:20:14 Got the rear brake switch sorted. I had it grounded out in the wrong place. It's now grounded to the tail light and working as it should. No popped fuse! ;D Thanks for the help! |
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