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General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Plug Cap leak repair question
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Message started by DesertRat on 09/24/15 at 06:52:44

Title: Plug Cap leak repair question
Post by DesertRat on 09/24/15 at 06:52:44

found the write up in the Tech section and was wondering if this repair can be done without engine removal?

also need clarification: does the engine have to be at TDC?

Title: Re: Plug Cap leak repair question
Post by youzguyz on 09/24/15 at 07:21:35

Yes and Yes

Title: Re: Plug Cap leak repair question
Post by Dave on 09/24/15 at 07:22:14

The engine can remain in the frame.

The engine should be at TDC so that the cam lobes are not pushing on the rocker arms. If you attempt to take off (or replace) the cylinder head cap while the cam is pushing a valve open.....it is applying a lot of pressure on the cylinder head cap and will make it impossible to remove or replace properly.

Title: Re: Plug Cap leak repair question
Post by verslagen1 on 09/24/15 at 08:36:03

I was pleasantly surprised the last time I removed the cover upon removing the last bolt (the center most one fortunately) that the cover slowly rose with the bolt. 8-)

So while it may be good technique, not mandatory for removal.
But you will need to set it to TDC for replacement.

Title: Re: Plug Cap leak repair question
Post by DesertRat on 09/24/15 at 13:35:08

THANKS GUYS ... y'all rock!

Title: Re: Plug Cap leak repair question
Post by DesertRat on 09/24/15 at 14:06:27

Ive read here that quite a few folks broke old ones during the torque process, should I buy all 13 bolts as new replacements instead of reusing the old ones?

Title: Re: Plug Cap leak repair question
Post by verslagen1 on 09/24/15 at 14:54:55

6F4E584E595F794A5F2B0 wrote:

Ive read here that quite a few folks broke old ones during the torque process, should I buy all 13 bolts as new replacements instead of reusing the old ones?

Most times they don't break, sometimes you just need new threads, sometimes you need a longer bolt to reach new threads.
You certainly can circumvent the breakage and worn threads issue by doing this.

Title: Re: Plug Cap leak repair question
Post by Dave on 09/24/15 at 18:50:51

And don't over-tighten the bolts...they are small and thread into aluminum. They should only be made snug.....not tight. The proper torque is only 6-8 ft.lbs.....you can't use a 150 ft/lb torque wrench and get any kind of a click at those low settings.

Title: Re: Plug Cap leak repair question
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 09/24/15 at 20:14:31

Ya don't torque them. You start in the middle and work out, just snug, and as you repeat the process, and just use finger closing against a thumb on the head of the tool, be slow and careful.
The time it takes to repair a mistake is too much. At the end you'll be moving the bolt almost none.
It's okay if you make the pattern eight times, who cares? Try it in two,, probably not gonna be a good day..

Title: Re: Plug Cap leak repair question
Post by old_rider on 09/24/15 at 21:36:54

Kinda like torqueing aircraft parts..... start by snugging... then in lower increments first (usually 5 inch/or if in foot lbs 2-3ft pounds)

Like JoG says... snug...again.....snug....again....little pressure....

I think I did mine about five times, with the fifth time of no movement..... mine doesn't leak at the head...LOL... I have a bad valve cover seal... (which I plan to fix this cold season).

If you don't feel safe with your hand judgement.... go to an auto parts store and rent one..... that has the proper torque values..... :)