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Message started by rong on 09/02/15 at 13:07:15

Title: Procedure for checking the chain tensioner
Post by rong on 09/02/15 at 13:07:15

First of all, sorry for the wordiness.  Couldn't figure out how to make it less wordy.  Thanks for bearing with me.

Having a relatively new S40, I don't have to worry about replacing the chain tensioner with a verslavy tensioner right away.  But I wondered what the actual procedure is for determining when to open the engine case for a visual inspection of the chain tensioner.
By the way, the less I have to open the case to check it, the happier I will be!   :-)


METHODS OF CHECKING THE TENSIONER THAT I HAVE READ ON THIS WEBSITE.
1.  Of course, by opening the case up, you can visibly inspect the chain tensioner.
2.  Somewhere on this website I've heard that the engine will make a distinct noise at engine idle, which is a giveaway that the chain tensioner needs replacing.  Is this a reliable way to check it?
3.  Somewhere on this website, I've read that when sitting on the seat, by placing both ankles on the engine case while it is running, you can tell if the tensioner needs replacing.  Is this a reliable way to check it?
Given the above three ways, I assume the only reliable/safe way is to open the case and visibly inspect it.  But open to your thoughts.


UPDATING THE CHAIN TENSIONER ... HOW MANY TIMES?
If I read the chain tensioner procedure correctly, there could be chain tensioner updates/changes at three separate times. (Providing you keep the bike for many many miles)
 1.  The first update is when the original chain tensioner gets loose (after many miles).  At that time you replace it with the verslavy chain tensioner.  But the verslavy chain tensioner has two adjusting holes.  So replace the original tensioner with the verslavy in the 1st  hole.
2.  Then, after many more miles of driving, the verslavy (adjusted to the first hole), will get loose.  So adjust the verslavy chain tensioner by moving from the first hole to the second hole.  This will give you more miles of use.
3.  Finally, after many more miles of driving, the verslavy chain tensioner adjusted to the second hole may get loose.  It's then time to get a new cam chain.
Would I be correct about these three update/adjustment steps?


AT WHAT MILEAGE SHOULD THE CASE BE OPENED TO CHECK THE CHAIN TENSIONER?
Again, my desire is to open the case as few times as possible.  Also, I read on this website that a good time for inspection is when one changes the oil.  (One person indicated that you could lay the bike on it's side for inspection and not have to change the oil.  I won't be doing that!)
So, given a very low mileage bike that is being well maintained, when is the first time to open the case to check the chain tensioner?  If one changes the oil at 4000, 8000, 12000, 16000, 20000 miles, would any of those mileage milestones be a good time for the first inspection?
Once the case is open, and the chain tensioner is inspected, if it extends out to 19mm, it is time to replace it with the verslavy (I think that 19mm is what I read).
But what happens if it is only extended out  to 15mm (as an example)?  I assume you then close the case and ride ... But for how many miles before you have to again to go back and reopen the case?  Or could I just replace it with a verslavy at this time, even though it only extends out to 15mm?
Then, after the verslavy is installed, how many miles before you have to reopen the case to check to see if it's time to change the verslavy from the first hole, to the second hole?  Finally, how many miles before it's time to reopen the case to check if the verslavy in the second hole is getting loose (indicating that it's time to get a new cam chain)?


Again, sorry for the wordiness.  Feel free to correct anything I have wrong.  The ultimate goal is to update the chain tensioner, but also to open the case for a visual inspection as few times as possible!  :-)  The less, the better!  (I hope I don't  have to do it at every oil change!)


Thanks for answering the questions above and for any guidelines you can provide.

Ron G

Title: Re: Procedure for checking the chain tensioner
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 09/02/15 at 13:42:33

first hole on Verslavy is the stock position, second one is to wring the last of the miles out of the chain. Then, time for new chain a maybe a guide, maybe both. One of them is easy, the other, not so much.
A good quarter inch ratchet, not Harbor Freight, my favorite is S and K,
hard to find, and expensive, but internal friction is low and the ratchet still ratchets on pretty loose bolts, the socket set, HF is okay on that.
Some silver antiseize, ,. Some guys wanna locktite the header studs, I'd rather keep them from oxidizing with the aluminum and just snug them up a little ever so often. And that's done on a cold engine and paying attention to the little ridges that make the threads and realizing they are screwing into aluminum. Better to need to snug again than repair once.


ETA.

Get whatever you like, naturally. Some people never seem to notice the difference. I do, because ive used, and own and Do use lower quality ratchets.  I use them, the Craftsman ones, when I'm gonna be using a cheater.

Title: Re: Procedure for checking the chain tensioner
Post by verslagen1 on 09/02/15 at 14:18:02


647978717A77637B160 wrote:
METHODS OF CHECKING THE TENSIONER THAT I HAVE READ ON THIS WEBSITE.
1.  Of course, by opening the case up, you can visibly inspect the chain tensioner. Most reliably way.
2.  Somewhere on this website I've heard that the engine will make a distinct noise at engine idle... Is this a reliable way to check it? No
3.  Somewhere on this website, I've read that when sitting on the seat, by placing both ankles on the engine case while it is running, you can tell if the tensioner needs replacing.  Is this a reliable way to check it? Better
Working on 4th way.


UPDATING THE CHAIN TENSIONER ... HOW MANY TIMES?
If I read the chain tensioner procedure correctly, there could be chain tensioner updates/changes at three separate times. (Providing you keep the bike for many many miles)
Would I be correct about these three update/adjustment steps?  correct


AT WHAT MILEAGE SHOULD THE CASE BE OPENED TO CHECK THE CHAIN TENSIONER?
Again, my desire is to open the case as few times as possible.  Understood
So, given a very low mileage bike that is being well maintained, when is the first time to open the case to check the chain tensioner?  If one changes the oil at 4000, 8000, 12000, 16000, 20000 miles, would any of those mileage milestones be a good time for the first inspection?  When you get a New2you bike in otherwise unknown condition
Once the case is open, and the chain tensioner is inspected, if it extends out to 19mm, it is time to replace it with the verslavy (I think that 19mm is what I read).
But what happens if it is only extended out  to 15mm (as an example)?  I assume you then close the case and ride ... But for how many miles before you have to again to go back and reopen the case?  Or could I just replace it with a verslavy at this time, even though it only extends out to 15mm? Yes, now you're protected from plunger fallout and a sudden stop
Then, after the verslavy is installed, how many miles before you have to reopen the case to check to see if it's time to change the verslavy from the first hole, to the second hole?  Approximentally 1mm=1000miles
Finally, how many miles before it's time to reopen the case to check if the verslavy in the second hole is getting loose (indicating that it's time to get a new cam chain)?  In these cases, you will hear chain noise when the plunger pin hits the stop


Title: Re: Procedure for checking the chain tensioner
Post by rong on 09/05/15 at 22:04:54

Really appreciate the input.  

So, from what everyone has written: ... With a new bike, you don't have to replace the chain adjuster until it extends to 19mm.  And 1 mm equals about 1000 miles.  So this would mean: 1000 miles x 19mm = 19000 miles on the odometer before opening up the case to check it for the first time.  So I can wait until the 16000 mile oil change before opening up the case to look at it for the first time?... or if I feel lucky, wait until the 20000 mile oil change before opening the case to look at the adjuster for the first time?  

Would this be correct thinking?

Thanks,
Ron G

Title: Re: Procedure for checking the chain tensioner
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 09/05/15 at 22:21:48

My 05 was at 17 mm @ 15,000 miles. I did run the snot outta the thing.

Title: Re: Procedure for checking the chain tensioner
Post by verslagen1 on 09/05/15 at 23:29:40


5B46474E45485C44290 wrote:
Really appreciate the input.  

So, from what everyone has written: ... With a new bike, you don't have to replace the chain adjuster until it extends to 19mm.  And 1 mm equals about 1000 miles.  So this would mean: 1000 miles x 19mm = 19000 miles on the odometer before opening up the case to check it for the first time.  So I can wait until the 16000 mile oil change before opening up the case to look at it for the first time?... or if I feel lucky, wait until the 20000 mile oil change before opening the case to look at the adjuster for the first time?  

Would this be correct thinking?

Thanks,
Ron G

1. the adjuster doesn't start out at 0 at zero miles.
2. 1000 miles per mm is only meant as a rough estimate from your last measurement.

Title: Re: Procedure for checking the chain tensioner
Post by HJH on 09/06/15 at 14:33:50

My adjuster was at 18mm at 6,000 miles, but I am the third owner and know not what the previous owners might have done.  We all ride differently, so don't presume you know what the wear on the adjuster might be.  Had I not checked my adjuster and installed the Verslavy, I would have likely had major engine trouble much sooner than the 1mm=1,000 miles "standard" might suggest.

Title: Re: Procedure for checking the chain tensioner
Post by russ on 09/09/15 at 02:54:46

bought my 97 for 1400 with 5 thou on it , rode till 8 thou . most trips 50 miles to 100. fair amount of stops ,30 miles or so. 1 nice trip to Maryland but still stop every 75 or so miles. when I opened er up past mon the adjuster was all out an on a slight angle just like in pics  on forum.

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