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Message started by Tocsik on 08/27/15 at 08:25:52

Title: brake pads binding?
Post by Tocsik on 08/27/15 at 08:25:52

I replaced the front brake pads last night and the wheel doesn't spin freely with everything bolted back up. I can spin the wheel by hand but it doesn't continue to spin freely. Wheel spin was perfect with the caliper off.

The pads appear to be seated in the slots and clips correctly. They're EBC organic. When I had the caliper unbolted (not the banjo, though) I cleaned things up as best as I could and applied brake grease to the visible sides of the piston before pushing it back in the caliper body.
I pumped the brakes a bunch after reassembly until the lever was firm again.

What exactly is the mechanism for the piston to retract when you let off the brake lever?
Is some amount of drag on the rotor normal with new pads?

Title: Re: brake pads binding?
Post by Serowbot on 08/27/15 at 08:33:38

Some amount of drag is normal, even with old pads... It's just the way most disc brakes work...
...(they get hotter than snot after a ride too)... :o...

Title: Re: brake pads binding?
Post by Tocsik on 08/27/15 at 08:35:24

Thanks 'bot. I forgot to mention that I did not remove the master cylinder cover when I changed the pads, if that matters.

Title: Re: brake pads binding?
Post by Dave on 08/27/15 at 08:40:03

Let's do some math. Bike is a 2008 model...it is now 2015.....that makes it 7k years old.

Time to change the brake fluid!

And a little brake drag is normal...especially when the pads are new and have not been broken in.

Title: Re: brake pads binding?
Post by Tocsik on 08/27/15 at 08:54:07

Yeah, I know. I've been reading up on the techniques, getting ready to do that. It's still perfectly clear in the view window but I've not changed it since I've owned it which is now just over a year.

Any particular brake fluid recommendations? I meant to look in my Clymer last night but forgot :-/.

Title: Re: brake pads binding?
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 08/27/15 at 08:58:40

fluid type, I dunno, but allowing the master cylinder to fully drain is a seriously bad idea, waste some fluid, and cycle new fluid in, but if you let it drain sometimes getting it primed can be a real pain.

Title: Re: brake pads binding?
Post by verslagen1 on 08/27/15 at 09:31:09

18232F3F25274C0 wrote:

If it's clear, no tint at all, it's ok. But changing once a year aint bad either. Any moisture in the fluid will cause corrosion.

I use cheap DOT 4, you'll use half a pt.

Title: Re: brake pads binding?
Post by Tocsik on 08/27/15 at 09:37:07

Thanks guys. I feel privileged to get answers from some of the top minds on this forum at the same time and so quickly!

Title: Re: brake pads binding?
Post by Sonny on 08/27/15 at 10:19:04

Do a bleed after any brake service. Hydraulic fluid is not compressible -- air is. Air in the system can cause residual pressure on the caliper piston, along with spongy brake performance.

But my experience is the same as above, There's always a little bit of contact bet. pads and rotor. The caliper piston doesn't exactly retract (there's no retraction mechanism), it just releases pressure on the pads.

Title: Re: brake pads binding?
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 08/27/15 at 18:38:39

If no bleeder is opened, just squeezed the piston back, no lines removed, no need to bleed.
I don't add fluid to the car unless there is a leak. If there is no leak and the master cylinder is getting low, tells me the brakes are wearing low. If someone
Tops it Off FOR me, then I keep a big syringe with the brake fluid, I pull fluid off and dump it in the used oil division.. otherwise, squeezing the piston in will make it overflow..
Always pump the pedal/squeeze the lever, to get the pads to contact the disk.
Spongy pedal/lever says, bleed me. Pedal dropping with light pressure, sitting, master cylinder is bleeding past the piston in the master cylinder.