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Message started by irishjake on 08/01/15 at 06:46:56

Title: Removing rotor bolt
Post by irishjake on 08/01/15 at 06:46:56

I've read through earlier posts and it would seem that the rotor bolt is a standard right hand thread. Could someone confirm this as I'm having trouble getting it off.   >:(  

Title: Re: Removing rotor bolt
Post by Dave on 08/01/15 at 07:01:21

Yep, it is a normal thread.

They can be stubborn.

Title: Re: Removing rotor bolt
Post by Steve H on 08/01/15 at 08:43:51

The factory puts red thread locker on the bolt.  It'll take a lot of torque. It took a 4 foot pipe on a breaker bar to loosen mine.

Title: Re: Removing rotor bolt
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 08/01/15 at 16:02:08

50/50 transmission fluid and acetone penetrating oil. Let it soak a while, put more on. Soak.
If you don't have a propane power soldering tool, you can get them cheap enough.  The pinpoint flame on the bolt head, get it hot, stick an ice cube on it, squirt it with water, whatever.   An impact will get a bolt out when a cheater will twist it off.
That's just my experience and opinion.

Title: Re: Removing rotor bolt
Post by Steve H on 08/01/15 at 18:12:54

I think it was Serow said impact wrench...no problem.

Title: Re: Removing rotor bolt
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 08/01/15 at 19:18:42

If red locktite is involved, heat is good.

Title: Re: Removing rotor bolt
Post by Steve H on 08/01/15 at 21:07:11

I can tell you for sure when I pulled the rotor on my 87, there was red loctite on the bolt.

The manual also recommends it be used during reassembly.

Title: Re: Removing rotor bolt
Post by Kris01 on 08/01/15 at 23:32:27

Use an impact wrench but...

Don't just pull the trigger. "Bump" the trigger. The initial force is greater when the tool first starts.

Title: Re: Removing rotor bolt
Post by irishjake on 08/17/15 at 03:29:48

Thanks for replies  sorry for late thanks I didn't get any notification of replies and just found them.  I got it off eventually with a big torque wrench. Yep it's definitely a right hand thread. I used blue thread lock in reassembly as loctite website recommends 500 degree heat for removal and although I hope never to have to take it off again you never know!  I can't see it coming loose buy let me know what you think. Regards Jake

Title: Re: Removing rotor bolt
Post by Dave on 08/17/15 at 03:48:20


38233822393B303A34510 wrote:
Thanks for replies  sorry for late thanks I didn't get any notification of replies and just found them.  


If you want notifications of replies....you have to indicate that you wan to receive "notifications" when you are replying to the topic.  You have to turn on the Notifications in the box below place where you are typing your response......there are 3 options located below the box where you type your text.  If you don't do that.....you will not be notified.

Title: Re: Removing rotor bolt
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 08/17/15 at 06:02:06

As an owner, I can't imagine not coming in and scanning topic s. Everything recently replied to goes up high on the page and has a blue mark off to the left.
There are pencil point torches available, butane power. I gave ten bucks for a small one at Lowe's and forty for a serious one at the hardware store.
It came with a soldering tip, remove it, and the catalytic converter will handle all your heat shrink. It solders using just the flame very well..
And heating a bolt head? Easy....

Title: Re: Removing rotor bolt
Post by irishjake on 08/17/15 at 17:01:49

Sorry first forum I have posted on.  Thanks for advice :)

Title: Re: Removing rotor bolt
Post by Kris01 on 08/17/15 at 17:25:02

FYI, butane burns at 2,600°F (1,430°C)

Title: Re: Removing rotor bolt
Post by irishjake on 08/18/15 at 01:45:08

Hmm I do still have the question, will the blue loctite be sufficient ? I don't really want to take  off  the rotor nut again unless its absolutely necessary

Title: Re: Removing rotor bolt
Post by Dave on 08/18/15 at 04:41:18

I believe the blue will be adequate...I used it on mine.

I believe that corrosion has as much to do with the difficulty of removing them as the thread locker does.  Most of the stubborn ones I have removed came from bikes that were stored outdoors...or the bike was put away wet after washing.

Title: Re: Removing rotor bolt
Post by irishjake on 08/18/15 at 05:12:49

That's great I couldn't face taking it off again :) I was asking before whether a 2007 stator cover would fit a 91 with starter clutch mod   Well it seems to will let you know more when I try to start it. One other question I'm putting the clutch cover back on after putting in Verslagen tensioner. In the clymer manual it says you need to put a small bead of sealant around the top of the gasket, is this really needed?  Thanks again

Title: Re: Removing rotor bolt
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 08/18/15 at 06:11:45

Last clutch gasket I did dry. I had to tighten the bolts to the absolute end of their strength. I'd rather use some goo and need a gasket next time than do that again.

To be fair, I DID use after market gaskets and they didn't have the sealing bead applied on the bottom end. An OEM style version may be fine. The leaks I fought with were low-end.

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