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/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Removing the plastic spacer. /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1438294089 Message started by norman breedon on 07/30/15 at 15:08:09 |
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Title: Removing the plastic spacer. Post by norman breedon on 07/30/15 at 15:08:09 Hi, everybody. I modified the spacer on my new 2014 S40, as follows. The stock spacer is(was) .111" (2.8mm). Mikuni standard groove width is .035" (.9mm) I decided to be conservative and only shaved the spacer by that amount, .035". Anyway the bike proved to be practically un-rideable. It would bog down just off idle. After putting in a #4 washer to more or less restore the spacer thickness the bike was almost normal (.108" thickness.) Here in El Paso the elevation is 4000-4500' and the temp at the time was 85-95 degrees. Also the plug was wet and I could smell gas. A small change like that doesn't seem to be enough to affect the carb as it did. Any thoughts? :-/ Norman. |
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Title: Re: Removing the plastic spacer. Post by verslagen1 on 07/30/15 at 15:37:26 what year is your bike? |
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Title: Re: Removing the plastic spacer. Post by norman breedon on 07/30/15 at 15:48:40 It is a new 2014 bike. |
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Title: Re: Removing the plastic spacer. Post by Steve H on 07/30/15 at 18:16:24 The higher the altitude, the richer it is already because of the altitude. If it's sloppy rich, you might have to go down a jet size. How is it wide open or nearly so, still sloppy rich? |
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Title: Re: Removing the plastic spacer. Post by norman breedon on 07/30/15 at 18:34:50 I've never had it wide open except when I was having the problem. The engine simply refused to rev but when I closed the throttle it surged. The reason I thought it was lean was that at at a quarter throttle and steady speed if I cracked the choke the engine picked up a bit. I've never seen such a dramatic change from such a small change:one notch on the needle so to speak. |
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Title: Re: Removing the plastic spacer. Post by Kris01 on 07/30/15 at 20:07:41 Before you modified anything, did it surge at a steady cruising speed? That's a dead giveaway for being lean. |
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Title: Re: Removing the plastic spacer. Post by norman breedon on 07/30/15 at 20:56:26 Kris01, The only thing I noticed was that it seemed to have a lean misfire when it was cold. As I said, at a steady speed and about a quarter throttle if I cracked the choke it was like a bit more throttle. The first thing I did was to remove the brass plug and adjust the idle for best speed. Then based on this site and my own gut feeling I judged it to be lean at low power settings. After shaving the spacer .035" the engine would not produce power. With my situation at 4000' I knew the bike wouldn't be as lean as most of the other bikes. However one " notch" and the bike would not do much more than idle? I've adjusted many carburetors but have never seen such a dramatic result from what appeared to be a small change. ???? Do you think it is possible for the spring to get misassembled and cause this? After I reversed what I did I erased the evidence of course. :'( |
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Title: Re: Removing the plastic spacer. Post by verslagen1 on 07/30/15 at 21:04:51 You should probably test your petcock it's in the tech section index. |
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Title: Re: Removing the plastic spacer. Post by norman breedon on 07/30/15 at 21:11:17 I would never have thought of that since it is a new bike. I did try every position of the petcock and it didn't make a difference. |
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Title: Re: Removing the plastic spacer. Post by Serowbot on 07/30/15 at 22:09:55 Stock bikes, (all, not just ours),... are jetted lean at sea level, for EPA reasons... At 2500 to 5000ft,.. that jetting is pretty good... (varies with temps and humidity)... Over 5k,... and you may well be rich with stock jetting... Jetting is never perfect,.. it's just a good average for where when, and how, you ride... ;)... |
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Title: Re: Removing the plastic spacer. Post by verslagen1 on 07/30/15 at 22:33:25 33203736292422202B74450 wrote:
checking each position is not the same. |
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Title: Re: Removing the plastic spacer. Post by norman breedon on 07/31/15 at 10:13:58 Check the petcock on a brand new bike? Other than running a bit lean it ran ok until I tried to raise the needle. I hope it is not the petcock because if it turns out to be I will replace it with the petcock that you recommend. Norman. |
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Title: Re: Removing the plastic spacer. Post by Gary_in_NJ on 07/31/15 at 10:21:54 Lot's of things in play here. Chances are that at your altitude the needle is just fine where it is. A rich condition will present as "two-stroking" (burbling) while a lean condition will present as a hesitation at throttle input and surging at steady throttle. "The only thing I noticed was that it seemed to have a lean misfire when it was cold." Never jet for a cold engine. You only ride in that condition for a few minutes. |
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Title: Re: Removing the plastic spacer. Post by Kris01 on 07/31/15 at 11:01:52 Would you consider it worth it to remove the carb and check your work? Maybe the diaphragm has slipped or a jet is clogged or.... |
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Title: Re: Removing the plastic spacer. Post by norman breedon on 08/09/15 at 13:00:19 Hi, Thanks for all the suggestions for my problem.(self induced?) Today I got around to tackling the problem. I fitted a Yamaha petcock as recommended, it of course worked as advertised. I have never liked vacuum petcocks, why complicate such a simple system. I put back my shaved plastic washer .076" which is one Mikuni notch, .9mm. The bike ran perfectly with quite an improvement in pick up off idle! What happened last time- no power- could be due to my putting only a pint of gas in the tank or faulty reassembly of the top of the carb. I did try running on prime but it was the same as reserve. I put a pint of gas in it because I didn't want to have to drain a lot of gas if I didn't like the results. :-[ Does anybody think it is possible to thingy the slide spring when putting the top of the carb together? Changing the subject: New Bonneville .com sells no tool seat screws which fit the Suzuki perfectly and of course make the seat removable with "no tools" :D Thanks to everybody who gave me the benefit of their experience.!! Norman |
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Title: Re: Removing the plastic spacer. Post by chzeckmate on 08/09/15 at 14:35:21 I'm glad you got that sorted... As for the newbonneville tool free screws, those are cool but expensive. I replaced mine with thumbscrews from the hardware store 2 for $1.19 IIRC. You can get them cheap on ebay too. See here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-M6x20mm-Male-Thread-Black-Knurled-Thumbscrew-Grip-Knobs-/201400844521?hash=item2ee46d00e9 |
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Title: Re: Removing the plastic spacer. Post by norman breedon on 08/09/15 at 17:43:25 I cheated since I already had the screws. |
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Title: Re: Removing the plastic spacer. Post by KennyG on 08/09/15 at 17:54:36 The push pins that Verslagen sells are a whole lot easier to use then any threaded fastener for attaching the seat. Kenny G |
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