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General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Maintenance Schedule
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Message started by JutMan on 07/30/15 at 06:07:54

Title: Maintenance Schedule
Post by JutMan on 07/30/15 at 06:07:54

I searched and did not find a reference to a Maintenance Schedule. I know what the book typically says, but I see more knowledge here that is sometimes in the books. I was looking for a single sheet I would print or forum post that would have all the "general" maintenance sometimes outside of the normal. I see at lot of information, but each time i come here and browse through the posts there is always another thing that I need to make a mental note to check.

Does anyone have their own sheet or something they could share?

Overall topics would be something like:

1. Check
Oil - Daily before riding
Battery - Check water level (interval ?)
Valves - Adjust 5,000 miles
Brake Fluid - Check window

2. Lube
Swing Arm - ????
Clutch Cable - 5,000 Miles
Rear Brake Cable - ??? Miles

3. Refill
Brake Fluid - Change but never top off (shows break wear)

4. Replace
Oil - 3,000 Miles
Brake Fluid - Less than 5 years, or if discolored (brown/orange/milky)
Rear Brakes - Wear gauge on rear hub
Front Brakes - ???
Fork Fluid - ???

Title: Re: Maintenance Schedule
Post by Dave on 07/30/15 at 06:56:12

My maintenance schedule is.......winter.

I ride about 3,000 miles a year on the Savage, and I do an oil change before the bike is put away for the winter, and one in the summer before I go on the Dragon trip. My bike is stored inside and only ridden in dry weather....except for when I get caught in the rain while chasing Oldfellor and MMRanch around the mountains.

Changing brake fluid should be done every couple of years....no longer than 5 years - if the fluid in the sight glass is not clear and is getting milky or orange colored....it is time to flush it out.

If your bike is stored outside, ridden in a lot of wet weather, or on dusty roads....you may need to clean and lube more frequently. Same with the air filter....dirty/dusty riding will require more frequent attention. A schedule from a book doesn't really take into account your riding conditions. I tend to tinker on the bike when I have 15 minutes before dinner or bedtime....and I will remove a clutch lever and clean and lube the pivot points, and get the quick and easy things done when time allows. Same with checking the air in my tires or the water level in the battery....or the engine oil level. Major things like removing the rear wheel and cleaning and lubing the brakes is a winter project.

Title: Re: Maintenance Schedule
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 07/30/15 at 07:30:59

Check oil every few days, and immediately after a good hard ride that saw high RPM. An identical run on fresh oil , on mine, YMMV, wouldn't use hardly any, but once I had 1500/1800 miles on the oil, consumption increased. I carried a little 2 stroke oil container with a tip from a 90 weight, rear end oil jug and a short piece of wood with a slot to put on the oil fill plug. I finger tighten it, but, needed help getting it loose, especially hot, pliers goober it up. The oil usage rate was something I was never at ease with once I had miles on the oil. The oil in the two stroke oil container got used several times. If you're on the road and low on oil and no MC shops are open, hit the Wal-Mart or parts store, a cheap oil with low standards and No Friction modifiers beats low( oil not in the window ) oil. The oil is part of the cooling, or so I've heard.
Valves, check every five thousand. Once you have twenty thousand on it the tips of the adjusters will be mushroomed and work hardened. I had a Stage One cam and adjusted them on the tight side of specs.it's my opinion that that decreased the SLAP of the tip hitting the valves and gave me another
1.5ish thousandths of lift.

I recommend a pigtail to the battery. I bought two wire connectors and cut the clips off of the float charger. The charger just plugged in. Also provided a real easy voltmeter connection. Check any time you have a problem. Check when you park after a good ride. Check again next day. See how it's acting now, while it's good. Then, as it ages, you'll know. It's okay to write stuff down. Packing tape secures and protects notes on a wall.

I never add brake fluid to anything. It shows pad wear.
Get a big syringe and suck the fluid in. Compare to the color of new.
If it's brown, dump it..
Beware, the master cylinder is a mean dude if you let it drain and lose prime. Take the lid off, crack the bleeder, poke tubing on, quart jar, keep adding till it's flushed.

Notebook
Start list and any details.
Play with it, refine it, then type and print.

Title: Re: Maintenance Schedule
Post by Tocsik on 07/30/15 at 11:44:48

Related question here.
My bike is now over 8K miles and 6K of that is from me in the year that I've owned her.
I bought cable lube and the adapter but have a question on the process. Do you disconnect the cable from both ends to lube it, leave it connected at the bottom end or completely remove the cable to lube it?
I know one recommendation is to remove it and soak it in a pan of oil but I'm not going that route.
Same or similar question(s) for the rear brake cable. Lube that one, too?

Title: Re: Maintenance Schedule
Post by koehlerrk on 07/30/15 at 18:35:59

I'm with Dave on this... I keep up on the "small stuff" during the summer, try to save the big jobs for winter.

Title: Re: Maintenance Schedule
Post by youzguyz on 07/31/15 at 04:43:12

655E5242585A310 wrote:

The only cable you can lube easily is the clutch. Disconnect at both ends. Lube it from the top (obviously).
You disconnect from the bottom so you can move the cable inside the sheath to work the lube down the cable.
Squirt the lube for about 2 seconds. Work the cable a bit, give it another squirt. Repeat until you get lube coming out the bottom.
OH.. and have rags available. It is a messy job. :D

To lube the rear brake cable, you pretty much need to take it all the way off to do a good job.