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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Clutch slippage. /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1437528161 Message started by Iceman4193 on 07/21/15 at 18:22:41 |
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Title: Clutch slippage. Post by Iceman4193 on 07/21/15 at 18:22:41 Hey guys, looking for advice. 2002 savage with 25.5k miles. I think I have some clutch slippage because around 55 - 60 MPH when I give it gas the engine RPM increases fine, but with very little increase in speed. Ill bring it up another 1k RPM for like 5mph increase. I have used either Shell Rotilla or Valvoline V Twin oil designed for wet clutches. Occasionally a little Lucas Oil but not to much. I am thinking the friction plates are worn and the clutch may be slipping (I might be wrong on this but it is my best guess) so if it is true, is it best to replace the friction disks and the metal plates or is just the friction disks fine? |
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Title: Re: Clutch slippage. Post by justin_o_guy2 on 07/21/15 at 18:28:15 How long has this been going on? How much free play is in the clutch lever? |
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Title: Re: Clutch slippage. Post by Iceman4193 on 07/21/15 at 18:47:53 Hey Justin, to be honest I have only recently noticed (Within 3 months or so) because I did not often take it on the highway and get to those speeds. I tried adjusting the clutch lever and it has maybe 1/8" play or so. |
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Title: Re: Clutch slippage. Post by Kris01 on 07/21/15 at 18:59:52 From what I've learned from this site, if you do replace the clutch, don't try to "improve" it with stiffer springs, etc. It'll lead to explosive clutch failure. Just stick with the standard replacement stuff. |
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Title: Re: Clutch slippage. Post by justin_o_guy2 on 07/21/15 at 19:27:51 The more it happens, the less likely you are to not buy parts. I dunno about that Lucas stuff. Rotella is proven to keep these things alive. Your Not too much may have not been correct. There's one guy here who has made a real study of clutch plates. People sent him plates they replaced. Several have flushed out and saved them. |
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Title: Re: Clutch slippage. Post by verslagen1 on 07/21/15 at 19:49:38 check the position of the clutch lever arm... http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1377479692/0 |
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Title: Re: Clutch slippage. Post by justin_o_guy2 on 07/21/15 at 21:04:00 tried adjusting the clutch lever and it has maybe 1/8" play or so. As long as it has slack... |
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Title: Re: Clutch slippage. Post by Iceman4193 on 07/21/15 at 22:07:05 4E5D4A4B54595F5D5609380 wrote:
With the slack fully out of the lever (pushing up slightly) the bottom edge of the lever sits slightly above the lower line. So it is sitting a bit lower than the picture on the thread you linked. |
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Title: Re: Clutch slippage. Post by Dave on 07/22/15 at 03:54:18 252F29212D22787D757F4C0 wrote:
Since the adjustment and clutch rod appear to be OK....the clutch is not worn. You have contaminated it with "friction modifiers". Take the clutch apart and scrub the plates with Simple Green, Purple Power or a similar cleaner. Get several pieces of 360 or 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Lay the sandpaper on a flat surface and then rub the fiber discs lightly on the sandpaper until the shine is gone, then do a similar cleaning on the steel discs using a Brillo Pad or Scotch Bright. Clean off the plates again, dry them off, and then put a light coat of oil on the plates and put the clutch back together. From now on......no Lucas or other oil additives except some Redline ZDDP if you want to add it. Only use oils that are compatible with wet clutches. |
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Title: Re: Clutch slippage. Post by wolfsgrin on 07/22/15 at 04:44:52 Posted by: Kris01 Posted on: Yesterday at 18:59:52 From what I've learned from this site, if you do replace the clutch, don't try to "improve" it with stiffer springs, etc. It'll lead to explosive clutch failure. Just stick with the standard replacement stuff. Is this an isolated incident with the trowout arm being made of sintered meta and the heavier clutch springs damaging it? I know Lancer is running the heavy duty barnett clutch springs and hasn't had a problem. Verslagen, Dave have you ran heavier springs? If so did you use washers with them? Or a new billet machined throwout arm? Whose engine got grenaded on here from using heavier springs? Just curious, as I have the rbc clutch plates and barnett springs on mine haven't got to the piont of running yet. But have a couple grand in the engine as it sits and dont want to grenade it if i can. |
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Title: Re: Clutch slippage. Post by Dave on 07/22/15 at 05:31:15 I have the stock clutch plates and stock springs and I don't have any clutch slippage with my modified motor and taller gearing. I only use Rotella T and an ounce of Redline ZDDP with each oil change. Most of our bikes can slip the clutch if you accelerate hard before the engine is warmed up - the thick oil between the plates provides less ability for the clutch to grab until the oil warms up and things out. I believe JOG had a clutch pivot come apart after placing a washer under his clutch springs. I bought some new "10% stiffer" springs and a set of Kevlar friction discs - but I have not yet installed them and cannot comment on them being any better (or not). I am currently running on the "if it aint broke don't fix it" mode.....my stock clutch is working fine. REMEMBER - All those oil additives that make the oil more slippery, more energy efficient, or more clingy might be good for the bearings and cylinder - but they most likely will not be good for your clutch! |
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Title: Re: Clutch slippage. Post by Kris01 on 07/22/15 at 07:39:42 Something I've always wondered about with wet clutches, if the oil lubes the transmission/clutch and catches a lot of dust from same, it gets circulated through the engine's bearings (assuming the oil filter doesn't catch it). This can't be good. Has any manufacturers bike ever had any problems with bearing failure due to clutch friction material eroding the bearing surfaces? |
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Title: Re: Clutch slippage. Post by verslagen1 on 07/22/15 at 07:44:50 574F4C46534752494E200 wrote:
I put the heavier springs on my '96 and the throwout arm did crack. But I replaced it with another stock arm and it's been fine (knock knock) ever since. My feeling on this is if you maintain the correct geometry on the throwout arm, you'll maximize leverage and travels such that heavier springs aren't needed. I will custom grind the throwout rod so the ends are spherical. I also will fit the rods so there is 12 to 12.5mm extended out of the clutch pack. 13mm is too long and will bottom out throwing out the clutch permanently. |
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Title: Re: Clutch slippage. Post by Dave on 07/22/15 at 08:35:49 6B5249531011200 wrote:
The "dust" from the friction plates is not gritty or abrasive, it is a soft material and most likely doesn't hurt a thing. The fiber friction disc is lubricated and slides on the relatively smooth steel plate.....and it is more burnished than it is abraded away.......I really doubt that there is much of any material being worn away from the fiber disc. The clutches that cause trouble most often are "burned" from being used while slipping.....the plates are seldom worn away like a "dry" clutch can be. |
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Title: Re: Clutch slippage. Post by justin_o_guy2 on 07/22/15 at 11:59:27 Some reports of the throw out breaking by people who had done nothing. If I intended to keep riding I dunno what I'd do. I'd hafta at least consider having one machined. |
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Title: Re: Clutch slippage. Post by Kris01 on 07/22/15 at 13:50:50 Thanks Dave! |
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Title: Re: Clutch slippage. Post by Iceman4193 on 07/24/15 at 09:45:36 I guess this next oil change ill take the clutch plates out and get some degreaser up in there. |
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Title: Re: Clutch slippage. Post by justin_o_guy2 on 07/24/15 at 10:33:20 Testing |
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