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Message started by chzeckmate on 06/06/15 at 12:50:15

Title: No power at all
Post by chzeckmate on 06/06/15 at 12:50:15

So, I after changing the air filter I put the seat back on and got ready for a ride but when I turned the key there was nothing.  No headlight, no neutral light, no click, nothing...dead.  The battery is new (about two weeks old) and strong, I checked the fuses and they're both good.  This is the second time time this has happened.  The first time this happened it just started working again after a couple of days.  I really need help.  I need this bike to be reliable.  Please tell me there's some known issue because I don't have any diagnostic tools to go through the wiring harness.

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by TTom on 06/06/15 at 13:11:47

I know with my bike (2013) if the kickstand is down and it's not in neutral it won't turn over as a safety feature. I don't know if that feature affects the headlights though.

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by chzeckmate on 06/06/15 at 13:21:37

I appreciate the effort TTom, but the bike is in neutral and there would still be headlights and a neutral light.  I wish my issue were that simple.

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 06/06/15 at 13:29:55

Harbor Freight,Northern Tools,
Not having tools and keeping a bike on the road is like not eating and gaining weight. Ain't gonna happen.
Volt/Ohm meters are cheap and easy to use. A test light, another handy,cheap tool.
There is a connector under the tank that can do what you are experiencing.
Before you pull the tank, get yourself a place to set it down so the Speedo cable and petcock aren't in a bind. Yeah, I didn't think about that the first time. Don't lose the o ring on the Speedo connection.
If you ever decide to pull the spark plug, blow out the crud that settles down around it first.
Another mistake I made.
The kill switch is set right?
Will the horn work?
I don't know if you have, but I would pull the seat and try starting with no seat. Maybe you pinched a wire?
But I would certainly be taking the seat off.

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by jcstokes on 06/06/15 at 13:37:33

JOG2 is right, but in the meantime take the seat off and examine as may electrical connections as you can for obvious looseness or chafing. Don't forget to check the main earth wire on the battery at both ends.

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by chzeckmate on 06/06/15 at 13:40:48

I've got tons of tools, just no functioning volt/ohm meter.  The kill switch is in the on position. The horn, headlight, neutral light, signals, brake light don't work.  Tried with seat off and seat on.  Still no power to anything.  Checked all connectors under the seat for damage/looseness.  It's as if the key isn't in the on position.  I should also mention that I couldn't push start it either.  It will usually push start with a gentle push.

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by chzeckmate on 06/06/15 at 13:54:14


283731362B2C1D2D1D25373B70420 wrote:
There is a connector under the tank that can do what you are experiencing...

can you tell me more about this connector?

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by Serowbot on 06/06/15 at 13:54:21

Try disconnect and reconnect of the ignition switch plug...

Do you have a 12v test light?... This is a simple problem...
You just need to find where the voltage stops.
A meter or test light would really help.

Don't have one?,.. just solder a couple wires to a 12v bulb...

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by oldNslow on 06/06/15 at 13:55:47

Check both battery cables where they connect to the battery. Check the ground cable where it is bolted to the engine. It's a heavy black wire attached to a bolt at the right rear of the engine, near the lever that the clutch cable is attached to. There is a picture somewhere in the tech section. Maybe someone who knows exactly where can post it for you.

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by chzeckmate on 06/06/15 at 13:56:47


5C4A5D40584D405B2F0 wrote:
Try disconnect and reconnect of the ignition switch plug...

Do you have a 12v test light?... This is a simple problem...
You just need to find where the voltage stops.
A meter or test light would really help.

Don't have one?,.. just solder a couple wires to a 12v bulb...

I have a test light. Can you direct me what to test with it?


Title: Re: No power at all
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 06/06/15 at 14:07:10

Take the seat off,leave it off till you have it running.
Did you do anything other than change the air filter?
Do you have a Maintenance manual or have you found the online version?
You need to prove that power is coming to the ignition switch,then, turn it on and prove that it's going to the start button. Prove power To the start switch and I THINK that clears the connector under the tank of wrongdoing,but im not sure.

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by chzeckmate on 06/06/15 at 15:11:24


4E5157504D4A7B4B7B43515D16240 wrote:
Take the seat off,leave it off till you have it running.
Did you do anything other than change the air filter?
Do you have a Maintenance manual or have you found the online version?
You need to prove that power is coming to the ignition switch,then, turn it on and prove that it's going to the start button. Prove power To the start switch and I THINK that clears the connector under the tank of wrongdoing,but im not sure.


All I did was change the air filter. I don't have a maintenance manual. I can try to find it online. I'm not sure how to prove that power is coming to the ignition switch.



Title: Re: No power at all
Post by Serowbot on 06/06/15 at 15:45:07

Clip yer' little test light wire to a steel bolt somewhere on the engine or frame (no paint, no chrome),... then touch the other end with the pointy thing to the positive on the battery...
See if it lights..
Find the connector that runs from the back of the ignition switch (it's under the seat)... there are 3 or 4 wires on it.. one should be hot
See if it lights..
If that lights,... turn the switch to on... then, the other 3 wires should show hot...

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 06/06/15 at 15:49:45

Aaargh,, I Almost had it typed and the kindle blinked off...

Someone will point you to a manual.


Hook up the testlight clip to a ground. Prove it works, battery positive.
Check the wires on the iggy switch.
Check out all of them, even if you get a hot one first try.
Report finding s,,

Then turn key on.

See if you now have another hot wire on the ignition switch. You should.

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by chzeckmate on 06/06/15 at 16:06:09

Okay, so I've got some odd results.  I grounded my test light and touched the positive lead to the battery + and no light.  I connected the test light negative lead to the negative terminal and the positive lead to the positive terminal and no light.  I removed the battery from the bike and the test light worked.  wth?

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 06/06/15 at 16:18:07

Well, I'm not there to see,but maybe you just found it.

What,Exactly, did you clip the ground onto while the battery was in the bike?

Now would be a Real good time to have a voltmeter.
Do you have a small charger?
Do you have any charger that has a gauge?


Title: Re: No power at all
Post by oldNslow on 06/06/15 at 16:22:40

Put the battery back in. Run a temporary jumper wire from the negative battery terminal to a bolt head somewhere on the engine. If the bike powers up when you do that, and won't power up without the jumper in place, you have a problem with the negative battery cable.




Title: Re: No power at all
Post by chzeckmate on 06/06/15 at 16:28:13

I clipped the ground to several different things.  First I just clipped it to the nearest bolt head, then moved it all over the place trying to get a light.  I don't have a charger or anything that can give me an accurate reading on voltage.

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 06/06/15 at 16:42:17

Didn't you connect to battery negative?

Man, id get a voltmeter, under ten bucks.

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by chzeckmate on 06/06/15 at 16:52:26


013F3E32203C3D530 wrote:
Put the battery back in. Run a temporary jumper wire from the negative battery terminal to a bolt head somewhere on the engine. If the bike powers up when you do that, and won't power up without the jumper in place, you have a problem with the negative battery cable.


I just tried this and got the same result.  No power at all.  There are also no hot wires in the ignition plug.

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 06/06/15 at 17:04:27

There are also no hot wires in the ignition plug.

Aww, man, really? You mean it just controls ground?

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by chzeckmate on 06/06/15 at 17:11:25


2E3137302D2A1B2B1B23313D76440 wrote:
There are also no hot wires in the ignition plug.

Aww, man, really? You mean it just controls ground?


It's just that I'm not getting a test light anywhere on the ignition, but then again, I'm not getting a light anywhere.

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 06/06/15 at 17:28:55


281711160B0C24620 wrote:
Okay, so I've got some odd results.  I grounded my test light and touched the positive lead to the battery + and no light.  I connected the test light negative lead to ythe negative terminal and the positive lead to the positive terminal and no light.  I removed the battery from the bike and the test light worked.  wth?


 I connected the test light negative lead to the negative terminal and the positive lead to the positive terminal and no light.

Okay, the clip you put on the neg. terminal, did you put it on anything Other than the lead part of the battery?
I am asking again, Exactly,what did you do.

When you are wanting a ground to work out for you and you have a clip,you may need to clean up what you clip on, maybe squeeze it and wiggle it.
If you have not clieaned the ground on the motor, you should.
I'm not comfortable that the light only works with the battery out..
You said you have had this problem before...
Did you change the battery, anything, anything else you have done or someone else, anything you can tell about the history.

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by chzeckmate on 06/06/15 at 17:38:12

Yeah this exact same thing happened about two weeks ago so I had the battery replaced under warranty. That battery was only about a month old And that incident happened right after changing the headlight bulb for a brighter one

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by chzeckmate on 06/06/15 at 17:43:01

I put the positive lead on the screw on the terminal, the terminal, itself, and the cable connector. I put the negative on numerous bolt heads. I did clean the bolt heads first

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 06/06/15 at 18:20:40

And that incident happened right after changing the headlight bulb for a brighter one

The charge circuit does not have much more than the bike demands.
Your brighter bulb might be more than the bike will support.

But that doesn't explain the light working with the battery out but not in.
Do you have ten bucks?
At least haul the battery to an auto parts store and get it checked.

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by chzeckmate on 06/06/15 at 23:42:15


3E2127203D3A0B3B0B33212D66540 wrote:
And that incident happened right after changing the headlight bulb for a brighter one

The charge circuit does not have much more than the bike demands.
Your brighter bulb might be more than the bike will support.

But that doesn't explain the light working with the battery out but not in.
Do you have ten bucks?
At least haul the battery to an auto parts store and get it checked.


Here's something interesting.  I took someone's advice and tried to jump start the bike and it worked.  I'm assuming that the battery has enough juice to light my test light but not enough juice to power the bike.  I'm really confused about how two brand new batteries could go bad in an instant.  I mean both batteries were so good that the starter didn't even whine.  It would just start instantly...you'd hear the initial click of the starter and immediately the motor would begin to rumble.  What could cause a battery to go from being that strong to not being able to even dimly light the neutral light?  I've never left the bike in park.  I double check that every time.  I'm OCD about that.  I ride every day at least half an hour both ways and the revs are high enough that the charging system shouldn't struggle to put power back into the battery.  I'm really worried that I'm going to go get the battery replaced under warranty again and this will repeat itself.  

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 06/06/15 at 23:47:30

That's odd, you quoted my post,yet, overlooked a clue, a question and a suggestion.

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by chzeckmate on 06/06/15 at 23:51:15

Sorry, I meant to mention that the headlight bulb is just a brighter bulb.  The wattage is the same it's just better technology, I'm getting the multimeter in the morning, and I'll be taking the battery there in the morning.

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 06/07/15 at 00:20:28

Good plan,,

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by koehlerrk on 06/07/15 at 04:34:00


786761667B7C4D7D4D75676B20120 wrote:
Good plan,,


Good plan. Now, after you have a voltmeter...

1. Check that you have it set up to measure DC voltage. Easiest way to do that is to check the volts on the battery before putting it back into the bike. Should be around 13-13.5 volts no-load on a brand new battery.

2. Clean both battery terminals. make sure there's no paint, plastic, or other crapola on them. Then clean the cables that attach to the battery.

3. Now, with the key off, connect the battery wires, positive first, then negative. When you hook the negative, look for any tiny sparks - there shouldn't be any, these bikes draw no power with the key off. They key is off I hope.

4. Check your battery voltage again, right at the terminals. Then turn the key on and check it again.

A voltage drop with the battery connected but key off indicates a short circuit somewhere. This is bad.

A small (0.5-1 volt) drop with the key on is normal... if all the lights come on.

No voltage drop at all indicates that you have something unplugged or a broken wire.

My guess is the likely diagnosis is a bad or dirty battery connection. Start there, see what you find, report back.

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by chzeckmate on 06/07/15 at 09:04:02

1. The fresh batt off the bike measured 12.70 volts.
2. Cleaned terminals and connectors.
3. No sparks on connecting the batt.
4. Key OFF 12.14 volts.  Key ON 12.10 volts.  Bike running 12.26 volts.

For reference, this is the battery I have
https://www.batterylookup.com/AutoZone/Duralast~Gold_ETX15L

You mentioned that a voltage drop with battery connected and key off suggests a short.  It dropped from 12.7 to 12.14 so possibly a short?  You also mentioned that no voltage drop from key off to key on suggests something unplugged.  The drop from 12.14 to 12.10 would seems negligible, but truthfully, I don't know what I'm talking about.  Give me wrenches and I'm happy.  Give me something electrical and I'm cringing in the corner.  What can we make of these readings?  What should be my next move?

Side note:  I followed JOG2's advice and got the Clymer manual today as well.

Title: Dead in less than an hour
Post by chzeckmate on 06/07/15 at 10:44:34

So, an hour after putting the fresh battery in the bike I went out to make a quick trip but again...No Power.  In only one hour the voltage of the battery had dropped to 1.38 volts.  I removed the connector from the negative terminal and within moments the charge went back up to 4.43 and continued to climb at about .02 volts per second and it's still inching its way up.  I don't know what to do.  I'm in so far over my head.  Any guidance would be appreciated.  

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by old.indian on 06/07/15 at 10:55:53

You have "short" somewhere in your wiring.  The question now is where.  

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by chzeckmate on 06/07/15 at 10:57:56


33303872353238353D325C0 wrote:
You have "short" somewhere in your wiring.  The question now is where.  


Oh, no... Now I'm really worried.  I don't even know where to begin.

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 06/07/15 at 11:27:35

Wow, down to a volt,,  bbig draw, yet, no spark on install


Funny.




Get a healthy battery in it, dont ride it, dont even hook up the ground lead,
That big of a draw, something should be melted.
Eyeball every inch of wire you can,
Pull the seat. And really look good for a pinched wire.


Hook up the test lite battery neg to wire , The light will show if it's draining.
If so, pull a fuse, then the other fuse, changes need reported.

Yeah, electrical, scary,

You'll be okay, just takes time

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by chzeckmate on 06/07/15 at 11:40:03


534C4A4D50576656665E4C400B390 wrote:
Wow, down to a volt,,  bbig draw, yet, no spark on install


Funny.




Get a healthy battery in it, dont ride it, dont even hook up the ground lead,
That big of a draw, something should be melted.
Eyeball every inch of wire you can,
Pull the seat. And really look good for a pinched wire.


Hook up the test lite battery neg to wire , The light will show if it's draining.
If so, pull a fuse, then the other fuse, changes need reported.

Yeah, electrical, scary,

You'll be okay, just takes time


Thanks for the reassurance.  I'm surprised I didn't get a spark too.  I'm not sure I understand what you mean by, "Hook up the test lite battery neg to wire"...I followed Serowbot's suggestion of soldering two wires to a 12v light.  could you help me understand where I need to hook up the test light?

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 06/07/15 at 12:36:15

Put a wire on the battery negative and the other, hold it on the bikes negative battery cable. That puts the light in series with the battery and the wiring harness. If it lights, its because something on the bike is drawing current.
You're not accidentally leaving it in park light position?
Be sure,, its easy to do, and the key will come out.

This test requires that the negative battery cable is not connected to the battery.

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by chzeckmate on 06/07/15 at 13:01:12


4C5355524F4879497941535F14260 wrote:
Put a wire on the battery negative and the other, hold it on the bikes negative battery cable. That puts the light in series with the battery and the wiring harness. If it lights, its because something on the bike is drawing current.
You're not accidentally leaving it in park light position?
Be sure,, its easy to do, and the key will come out.

This test requires that the negative battery cable is not connected to the battery.


I figured out what you meant and you were absolutely right connecting the light to the neg terminal and the neg battery cable lit it up bright.  I removed the top fuse and the light stopped.  I removed the bottom fuse (after reinserting the top fuse) and the light continued to be lit.  So the short is along the path of the top fuse.  I also decided to disconnect all of the under seat connectors one by one and you can see in the image below the outlined white connector stopped the light and the outlined black connector made the light very dim.  Does this reveal anything that might help me narrow the search for this short?

I'm inspecting for pinched wires but haven't found any yet.  

http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag28/justin_fisher2/underseat2_zpswfrxymf1.png (http://s1297.photobucket.com/user/justin_fisher2/media/underseat2_zpswfrxymf1.png.html)

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 06/07/15 at 13:15:32

Dude! You just made my day..

Now you're getting it.
For now, don't concern yourself with anything but the harness the white connector runs.
You Need an ohm meter, imo, but let's muddle through for now.

Okay, pull the white one and black one apart, no light, right?
If so, connect the ground to the battery.
Now, use the test light on the connector, same way as before.
See what you learn.
Now would be a good time for someone to post a bit of wiring diagram.
I'm working blind..

Hayulp, hayulp..
Hes after me, and he has a table leg!

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by chzeckmate on 06/07/15 at 13:45:18


4A555354494E7F4F7F47555912200 wrote:
Dude! You just made my day..

Now you're getting it.
For now, don't concern yourself with anything but the harness the white connector runs.
You Need an ohm meter, imo, but let's muddle through for now.

Okay, pull the white one and black one apart, no light, right?
If so, connect the ground to the battery.
Now, use the test light on the connector, same way as before.
See what you learn.
Now would be a good time for someone to post a bit of wiring diagram.
I'm working blind..

Hayulp, hayulp..
Hes after me, and he has a table leg!


Oh, it's starting to make sense to me now (a little).  If I connect the negative terminal of the batt then I can jump the individual electrodes between connectors to trace the problem further.  I just came back from getting a fresh battery and I'll start on it as soon as I get it on the bike.  By the way, my new multimeter has an Ohm meter.

PS. I really appreciate you helping me.  :)

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by Steve H on 06/07/15 at 13:49:54

I am pretty certain this is the brake/tail light connector.

In the white connector, the black with white stripe is ground, red is tail light, other should be brake light.

See if you have any power on either the red or the one with the black stripe when the battery is connected but the switch is off.

It sounds like either the park or brake light is on when the switch is off.

Everybody else has said it...make sure it's not being left in park position. The key, when facing the ignition switch turns anti-clockwise for off and clockwise for park.

I hope you get this sorted.  I hate electrical problems.

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 06/07/15 at 13:57:39

Gotchya a meter! Very nice.
And IF that's rear brake light stuff, then it's possible that the switch is messed up. You sure that brake light isn't on?

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by Steve H on 06/07/15 at 14:03:47

Here's a clip of the wiring for that section.


Title: Re: No power at all
Post by chzeckmate on 06/07/15 at 14:31:02

Thanks for that. I'm kind of lost looking at the diagram. Where is that white connector in this diagram...also would I be correct that the black wire with a white line is negative? When I connect the negative battery terminal to that wire I get .33 volts

http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll23/JF4000/20150607_161837_zpsr3vxzgrq.jpg (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/JF4000/media/20150607_161837_zpsr3vxzgrq.jpg.html)

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 06/07/15 at 14:43:50

I gotta say, I don't remember anyone walking in the door and be so ready to listen. And not leave us waiting and wondering what is going on.
I'm gonna step back and think about it. Gentlemen, I hope you will do what you can to help.

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by chzeckmate on 06/07/15 at 14:53:55


352A2C2B3631003000382A266D5F0 wrote:
I gotta say, I don't remember anyone walking in the door and be so ready to listen. And not leave us waiting and wondering what is going on.
I'm gonna step back and think about it. Gentlemen, I hope you will do what you can to help.


I really appreciate everything you've done so far and thank you for being a champion for my cause.

I forgot to mention that the key is in the on position when I get a reading of.33 volts on the black wire with white stripe and the negative battery terminal. If they key is off I don't get that reading. Thinking about that I don't think this is the problem since my drain is happening with key off.

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by chzeckmate on 06/07/15 at 16:05:52

More info.  When I disconnect this black connector there appears to be no drain on the battery when the key is in the off position.  The R/R seems to be heating up a little while the black connector is connected.  Does this give any insight as to what I'm dealing with?

http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag28/justin_fisher2/black%20connector2_zpsi7a3edgz.png (http://s1297.photobucket.com/user/justin_fisher2/media/black%20connector2_zpsi7a3edgz.png.html)

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by Steve H on 06/07/15 at 16:33:46

Now that I see the rest of the connections, it's the rectifier trigger and charge connector (white one). The one with yellow wires going into it is from the stator.  

The R/R should not heat up at all when the switch is off. If it's pulling power just sitting there, it's probably bad.

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by verslagen1 on 06/07/15 at 16:40:16

That should be normal. That's the reverse voltage of any diode

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 06/07/15 at 16:44:00

Well, there are guys who know how the charge circuit works, I don't.
I'm gonna step back and read,if I can contribute, I will.

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by Steve H on 06/07/15 at 16:51:08

I'm a little out of my depth too when it comes to the R/R.  
Here's an article on voltage regulators and how they function with troubleshooting info

http://racetechelectric.com/ft-751-voltage-regulators.html

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by verslagen1 on 06/07/15 at 17:00:14

My answer was regarding the red question

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by old_rider on 06/07/15 at 17:11:29


29326B68696E6C635A0 wrote:
Now that I see the rest of the connections, it's the rectifier trigger and charge connector (white one). The one with yellow wires going into it is from the stator.  

The R/R should not heat up at all when the switch is off. If it's pulling power just sitting there, it's probably bad.


I agree, if the regulator/rectifier is getting warm/hot when the key is in the off position I think there lies your short.

Cheap on ebay.....http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/261712246507?lpid=82&chn=ps

While running you should have above 13v reading on the battery.... so the regulator is not "regulating".

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by chzeckmate on 06/07/15 at 18:53:50


5B485F5E414C4A48431C2D0 wrote:
That should be normal. That's the reverse voltage of any diode


Just to be clear I had the probes on the multimeter going from the negative battery terminal and the ground wire on the connector.  I would naturally think that there wouldn't be any voltage reading from ground to ground.


5A5951475C515047350 wrote:
[quote author=29326B68696E6C635A0 link=1433620215/45#48 date=1433720026]Now that I see the rest of the connections, it's the rectifier trigger and charge connector (white one). The one with yellow wires going into it is from the stator.  

The R/R should not heat up at all when the switch is off. If it's pulling power just sitting there, it's probably bad.


I agree, if the regulator/rectifier is getting warm/hot when the key is in the off position I think there lies your short.

Cheap on ebay.....http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/261712246507?lpid=82&chn=ps

While running you should have above 13v reading on the battery.... so the regulator is not "regulating".[/quote]

I couldn't be certain that it was heating up.  It was a hundred degrees here today and could've been the sun heating it.  I'm going try to verify that now.  



Title: Re: No power at all
Post by chzeckmate on 06/07/15 at 19:06:15

Okay, well I went to verify that the R/R was heating up and not just the effects of the sun but when I reconnected the black connector the top fuse went pop.  I didn't put put another fuse in it because I suspect I'll just blow that one too.  I removed the R/R and have it in hand now.  Is there a way to test it to confirm this thing is the culprit?

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by Steve H on 06/07/15 at 19:11:52

Testing instructions in the link I posted

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 06/07/15 at 19:21:02

Good call not poking another fuse in.

I don't remember if it was blown earlier.

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by chzeckmate on 06/07/15 at 19:24:11


79623B38393E3C330A0 wrote:
Testing instructions in the link I posted


Right, I forgot about that.  Thanks a ton!  Just one thing there aren't any yellow wires.  This is what I'm looking at.


http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag28/justin_fisher2/rr_zpsfarg58ts.jpg (http://s1297.photobucket.com/user/justin_fisher2/media/rr_zpsfarg58ts.jpg.html)

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 06/07/15 at 19:39:42

I've never looked under one before, but the epoxy iscracked,  been getting hot?
Normal condition?

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by chzeckmate on 06/07/15 at 19:58:06


405F595E43447545754D5F53182A0 wrote:
I've never looked under one before, but the epoxy iscracked,  been getting hot?
Normal condition?


Good eye. there are three small cracks.  There are small metal fragments poking through the two bottom cracks.  You can just barely make it out.  I'm not sure if it's been getting hot, but it sure has been hot here... 100 degrees today.  Being under the seat probably doesn't get a lot of airflow either.


776C35363730323D040 wrote:
Testing instructions in the link I posted


I think I understand how the test is supposed to go.  If I'm not mistaken I'm testing diodes so I need to set the multimeter to the diode position and then place the negative probe on one of the pins in the white connector while placing the positive probe on a pin in the black connector with three pins.  Repeating the process interchanging the negative and positive probes respectively in the white and black connectors until I have the 6 readings...Is that correct?

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 06/07/15 at 20:07:16

There are small metal fragments poking through the two bottom cracks.  

Well, I would tend to condemn it based on that.

Now, is it possible for the output from the coils to cook it?
Can it be putting out too much voltage?

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by chzeckmate on 06/07/15 at 21:04:51


7E6167607D7A4B7B4B73616D26140 wrote:
There are small metal fragments poking through the two bottom cracks.  

Well, I would tend to condemn it based on that.

Now, is it possible for the output from the coils to cook it?
Can it be putting out too much voltage?


I'd be interested to hear reports from other members on the condition of the under side of their R/R's.  I have had other products arrive new with the epoxy cracked underneath looking very much like this.  Most recently a lawn mower hour meter.  They worked just fine.  In this case, I'd say you're right to be skeptical of it.  

I found a YouTube video that demonstrated the test so I tested it and I'm sure it's bad.  I would expect the diodes to measure uniformly but my results were anything but.  I'm also concerned about how it came to be bad.  I'm relying on the expertise of the fellowship here to help me through that if it comes to it.  

I've ordered the new R/R that old rider linked above.  Delivery is expected by June 13.  Keeping my fingers crossed for fast shipping.  After I get it I suppose we can do more troubleshooting if needed.  

I want to thank everyone for chipping in to help me.  I'll report as soon as I know something more.

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 06/07/15 at 21:14:33

Is the paint under it normal?

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by chzeckmate on 06/07/15 at 21:24:40


3E2127203D3A0B3B0B33212D66540 wrote:
Is the paint under it normal?


Yes the paint under it is normal but I should mention that It wasn't bolted to the fender as you might expect.  The PO had added a set of Willie and Max bags and the R/R wan attached to the the yolk under the seat.  The yolk looks quite normal with no signs of damage from the R/R.  

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by koehlerrk on 06/08/15 at 07:05:27

Sounds like the regulator is shot... get yerself a new one, and when you hook it in, make sure it gets good airflow over it to keep it cool.

Replace then, add a new fuse, charge the battery, hook it all back up and let us know what you get.

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 06/13/15 at 11:17:27

Don't give up.

Title: No power - Fixed, sort of...
Post by chzeckmate on 06/13/15 at 11:28:05


6A757374696E5F6F5F67757932000 wrote:
Don't give up.


Thanks...I have an update now.  Oh my gosh what a day I've been having.  Getting the new regulator/rectifier installed fixed the parasitic draw but didn't fix the no power problem...but then just as I was about to give up something happened.  The key was in the on position and I accidentally juggled the wires leading to the ignition switch and SHAZAM...I saw for a brief second the neutral light.  I jiggled again until I saw it again and sure enough when I held it in place in just the right spot I got a continuous neutral light.  I tightened the zip tie to keep it there and then depressed the starter button and yep she fired up.

...Now here's the crazy thing.  When I turned the key to the off position she just kept running.  What the heck?  I turned the key to park, on, off, and back...nothing just kept running.  I jiggled the key and off she went but more of a sputter not like the usual iconic shut off sound.  What can I make of this?  Do I need a new ignition switch or just splice some new wire in there?  I'm going to have to rely on the collective experience of the forum.

For what it's worth, the shut off issue couldn't for a moment wipe the smile off of my face from hearing the old girl fire up again.  You guys were absolutely right about the advice you gave me and I want to thank you all again.  Hopefully I can lean on you again for advice on the ignition issue.  Cheers!

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 06/13/15 at 11:56:49

Wiggling wires may not sound all that scientific, but its part of hunting a problem. You found where, but its not fixed.

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by chzeckmate on 06/13/15 at 12:00:25


293630372A2D1C2C1C24363A71430 wrote:
Wiggling wires may not sound all that scientific, but its part of hunting a problem. You found where, but its not fixed.

True but the parasitic draw is gone and the battery is charging correctly again that's a good start.  Now, hopefully with the help of the great wealth of knowledge here I can get that sorted out too ...fingers crossed.

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by Steve H on 06/13/15 at 12:06:57

Glad to hear that you got the one problem solved.  Now, it sounds like you've got a wiring connector or ignition switch problem.

Keep at it...You'll get it all sorted soon.

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 06/13/15 at 12:18:04


2E356C6F6E696B645D0 wrote:
Glad to hear that you got the one problem solved.  Now, it sounds like you've got a wiring connector or ignition switch problem.

Keep at it...You'll get it all sorted soon.




Yeah, location of the problem is generally found.
Now, gotta go in and find it.

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by chzeckmate on 06/13/15 at 15:15:25

Okay so I've done some tests and observations but I'm not sure how to interpret them.  I'd like to pass them along to the collective and see if we can narrow this down together.

1. When I attempt to shut off the engine by turning the key OFF all of the lights go very dim and seem to pulse with the rpm of the motor.

2.  The green connector that leads to the ignition switch (see image) switch has 4 wires.  The red wire is hot all the time and the other three are hot only when the key is ON.

3.  When I disconnect the green connector while the bike is running there is no effect.  When I disconnect it when the bike isn't running The bike will not start.

4.  Kill switch works.

5.  Side stand switch works.

6.  There is no visible damage to any of the wires I inspected.

Any help is seriously appreciated.  I really don't know how to proceed from here but I'm eager to learn and get working on it.  I have a feeling one of you Suzuki heros has some insight.  Thanks!

http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag28/justin_fisher2/IMAG0016_zpsxhhiq9l5.jpg (http://s1297.photobucket.com/user/justin_fisher2/media/IMAG0016_zpsxhhiq9l5.jpg.html)

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 06/13/15 at 16:05:37

You found the wires that changed things. Its not like the head plug or cam chain. Nobody has a
How to
For it.
You hafta study what moves, trace power, find and fixx it.
Take the zip tie off and study it.

Title: Re: No power at all
Post by Steve H on 06/13/15 at 20:30:53

Sounds like it's running on just the power being generated when you turn off the switch.

The switch completes two circuits when on.  One for the tail and tag light and one that runs the rest of the bike.

Looking at my wiring diagram, the output from the vreg only connects to two places, one switched on pole on the switch and the decomp controller.

Is your decomp controller working correctly? Do you hear two clicks when you hit the start button before the engine begins to turn over? It should take about 1/2 sec from hitting the button for the engine to start turning.

Wiring is so easy and so hard at the same time.  I hate wiring issues.  Too many little magic boxes. Not like the old days when you turned on the key, it went through the kill switch and then to the coil and also split off before the kill to the lighting circuit. Only magic box was the selenium rectifier.

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