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/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Exhaust question /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1431100374 Message started by Neilap on 05/08/15 at 08:52:54 |
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Title: Exhaust question Post by Neilap on 05/08/15 at 08:52:54 Hello, I was curious in your opinion. what are the sound depth differences in short mufflers compared to long and short dragpipes compared to long ones? I have an idea I may be implementing once I get jets. |
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Title: Re: Exhaust question Post by Art Webb on 05/08/15 at 08:54:43 This one i can't help you with ;D |
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Title: Re: Exhaust question Post by Neilap on 05/08/15 at 08:57:20 50434546545353310 wrote:
Hah it happens. im not familiar with bikes yet so it isnt like I can just swap in a muffler like a car without having to change things |
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Title: Re: Exhaust question Post by Art Webb on 05/08/15 at 09:03:42 The majority here will tell youm the savage sounds best with a Dyna muffler After hearing them in person, I agree, I can't imagine drags or a glasspack sounding any better at all than a Dyna muffler and it keeps backpressure (so long as the baffles are in place) which will give better performance on a basically stock bike I thought this was a more technical question involving sine waves and stuff like that ;D |
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Title: Re: Exhaust question Post by verslagen1 on 05/08/15 at 09:16:51 a long exhaust will give you a deep tone, and short will be so freaking loud you won't hear anything. :-? |
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Title: Re: Exhaust question Post by justin_o_guy2 on 05/08/15 at 09:17:12 Dyna or Supertrapp, with 14 disks. I had a Supertrapp. If I had it to do over id go with the Dyna. Much prettier, MUCH cheaper, about equal sound and power boost. I would have kept stock air filter, but the modification to increase the volume between carb Aaaand filter I would probably still do. Really, changes like that SHOULD get a dyno run before and after. |
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Title: Re: Exhaust question Post by old.indian on 05/08/15 at 09:36:17 After re-jetting, and adding a K&N air filter, I installed a 22' Helix (no baffles). Too loud.. I replaced with a 27" EMGO (nice tone) with no loss of power or gas mileage. (Note: My riding is done at 5,000 to 9,000+ ft. above sea level.) |
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Title: Re: Exhaust question Post by Neilap on 05/08/15 at 09:39:48 I thought of a Dyna but for myself I just dont find the sound 'gritty' enough for personal taste. It may be a cultural thing for where im from. motorcycles usually were so loud they would make you deaf in a car when they passed |
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Title: Re: Exhaust question Post by Art Webb on 05/08/15 at 09:49:32 we have a culture like that here, too, but I prefer a good sound to just as loud as possible, and value performance over sound I'm also not a fan of obnoxiously loud exhaust, car or bike, as it's, wait for it, obnoxious Also, I value my hearing If you just want loud, just drill your baffles out, cheap, easy, and loud |
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Title: Re: Exhaust question Post by Neilap on 05/08/15 at 10:14:05 687B7D7E6C6B6B090 wrote:
note taken. I have hearing damage from the frac field (I get to be the unlucky person that disposable earplugs cause my ears to swell up yay) my exhaust right now has 3 additional holes drilled out from previous owner about the size of the original center hole. I had an idea of adapting a short glasspack. but I shall research lol I did find a savage on youtube with a turnout muffler by Emgo that I liked |
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Title: Re: Exhaust question Post by Dave on 05/08/15 at 10:14:56 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q_mp76ouFUg [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q_mp76ouFUg[/media] |
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Title: Re: Exhaust question Post by Neilap on 05/08/15 at 10:29:51 LOL that was hilarious, so true though. my bike pretty much commutes for work being interstate then 1 lane road and some gravel |
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Title: Re: Exhaust question Post by Art Webb on 05/08/15 at 10:59:42 I used to like loud, too, I was the guy with Cherry bombs on my car ;D even then I preferred performance over noise, so once I did my research re exhaust, my car had a single three inch exhaust, rater than duals This makes better low to mid range torque, as opposed to high end power, and most car engines live their lives between 2-3k RPM, or did back then (V8 era) this is an a basically stock engine of course, on a car with a 3/4 race cam, you want an exhaust more biased to High end power, to match the engine's power characteristics nowadays I guess I've mellowed, my cars have stock, quiet mufflers, and I find it more restful and less tiring to drive them that way I tend to prefer stock muffs on bikes, too, but the S40s muff sounds wrong, especially mine, that has a bit of a whistle to it The Dyna muff, though, sounds ....right, on an S40, a little louder, but a lot deeper |
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Title: Re: Exhaust question Post by Neilap on 05/08/15 at 11:13:11 I can understand that. I run into the issue of ofcourse being 6'4 and 350 lbs (I look like someone of my height at 230 lbs so thankfully I dont look wrong on a skinny bike lmao) its kindof nice in a way. I can steer my bike with normal bicycle weight shifting easily. but ofcourse I top out at 85-87 mph going flat out. at 55-60 i get 49mpg and 40 at 70. im using rotilla T6 synthetic. More or less I do want performance but im suffering from.. poof's.. my exhaust says, Poof poof poof poof it reminds me of a fart can on a 4 cyl. a sound I despise. hence why im trying to figure out how I can get a sound I agree with while retaining performance and im assuming its going to be all about muffler length. being a 1cyl I dont believe I have to worry about scavenging effect. as long as I can keep the pulsing vibration down and keep proper backpressure. Can motorcycle exhaust valve's pop like a car without proper backpressure? |
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Title: Re: Exhaust question Post by Dave on 05/08/15 at 11:41:30 You need a muffler with a baffle system to break up pressure pulses that can affect the performance. Drag pipes allow the pressure pulses too easy of a path in and out of the pipe, and at certain rpm's the pulses create a flat spot in the power curve. Try the DYNA....it works really well and has a very nice sound, and they are pretty cheap and very well built. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KjKUKhHQLHg |
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Title: Re: Exhaust question Post by Jeff71 on 05/08/15 at 16:02:40 That video is killing me!!!! ;D Jeff |
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Title: Re: Exhaust question Post by WD on 05/08/15 at 23:54:38 12 inch glasspack (no packing) and a 29 inch long fishtail pipe after it. Long weld in "stick stopper" (chopper) baffle tube at the end of the round section. Sounds like a real deal English thumper circa 1940s to mid 1960s. A 38 inch long piece of chain link fence top rail, angle cut to 75 degrees, makes a Savage sound EXACTLY like a single engine Huey UH-1... and will set off car alarms in a 50 foot radius. ;D |
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Title: Re: Exhaust question Post by Rylee on 05/09/15 at 00:29:13 I started with a RYCA header and 19" reverse cone muffler on the bobber. Swapped it out for a custom setup. Started with a 6" baffle welded in mid pipe and it was perfectly quiet but to much baffle and I lost most of my mid to top end response. Tore it apart 3 times relocating and shortening the baffle and never found that sweet spot. |
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Title: Re: Exhaust question Post by Rylee on 05/09/15 at 00:33:06 Tired of cutting open the exhaust to "adjust" the baffle I decided to 90 thru the frame and dump out the left side. Ended up with 30" of pipe length and settled with a slightly drilled out crumb cup. And it's perfect. Just the right sound without having that drum thumping back tone or rasp yet loud enough to hear me coming. The crumb cup gave me the right amount of baffling that I only had to adjust the idle mix screw a tad bit. |
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Title: Re: Exhaust question Post by Rylee on 05/09/15 at 00:34:46 Dump side Note* Now the right side of the rear is open to a hardtail bag that can carry an auxiliary fuel can. Having that made now should be done soon. |
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Title: Re: Exhaust question Post by strang on 05/09/15 at 02:43:12 I found the youtube clip that Dave posted really informative - geez there's a lot of other mis-information about exhausts out there. I could never get my head around all the talk of backpressure. I now get why the straight pipe won't work well, even if you baffle it. I'm off to redo my straight pipe... |
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Title: Re: Exhaust question Post by Neilap on 05/09/15 at 04:32:13 6C7F3B0 wrote:
WD I have to say you litterally hit the nail on the head for the sound im wanting with the 40s to mid 60s english thumper. Any part specifics? But also.. I like the idea of a huey... My inner child says helicopter lol |
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Title: Re: Exhaust question Post by LANCER on 05/11/15 at 08:31:44 765D51545948380 wrote:
WD I have to say you litterally hit the nail on the head for the sound im wanting with the 40s to mid 60s english thumper. Any part specifics? But also.. I like the idea of a huey... My inner child says helicopter lol [/quote] Well, you cannot go wrong with that inner child. ;D |
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Title: Re: Exhaust question Post by WD on 05/12/15 at 08:14:50 Part specifics? Any Harley aftermarket catalog has them. Generic 12" glasspack and a generic 29" fishtail pipe, add a couple Autozone or similar pipe adapters. Weld it up, tune the sound with copper or stainless steel pot scrubbers, dropped in at the head end of the assembly. The scrubbies don't last very long, tend to come out on fire... 8-) Finished pipe looks like...http://i1277.photobucket.com/albums/y490/mphsgal/Jeffs%20pix/Sam/f4e723a2-3498-4570-a862-3e02bd606def_zps2sliglbz.jpg...I hate chrome exhausts. |
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Title: Re: Exhaust question Post by Neilap on 05/12/15 at 12:24:41 Well, you cannot go wrong with that inner child. ;D[/quote] True, and my ride to work is very un-populated so disturbances arent that high given jacked up trucks with straightpipes and gutted cat's are found everywhere you look. But I am curious Lancer I was reading through posts and do you still sell those bored out jugs and pistons to match? |
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Title: Re: Exhaust question Post by Neilap on 05/12/15 at 12:26:38 4350140 wrote:
im kinda curious on what inlet/outlet diameter's id be looking for to keep from using adapters with a huge difference in them |
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Title: Re: Exhaust question Post by LANCER on 05/12/15 at 15:10:09 644F43464B5A2A0 wrote:
True, and my ride to work is very un-populated so disturbances arent that high given jacked up trucks with straightpipes and gutted cat's are found everywhere you look. But I am curious Lancer I was reading through posts and do you still sell those bored out jugs and pistons to match?[/quote] Yes I do. There is a correction though, the jug is the one you send to me. For both the camshafts and jugs, there are hardly any in decent condition for a reasonable price available on the market so it is necessary that you send me yours in order to make the camshaft/big bore needed. The price is $575 for the Big Bore High Compression Set. |
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Title: Re: Exhaust question Post by Neilap on 05/12/15 at 16:21:43 Yes I do. There is a correction though, the jug is the one you send to me. For both the camshafts and jugs, there are hardly any in decent condition for a reasonable price available on the market so it is necessary that you send me yours in order to make the camshaft/big bore needed. The price is $575 for the Big Bore High Compression Set. [/quote] I will get with you on that later. what all do you offer? since I will more than likely be doing all my upgrades in steps as the money rolls in. |
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Title: Re: Exhaust question Post by LANCER on 05/13/15 at 07:31:44 143F33363B2A5A0 wrote:
I will get with you on that later. what all do you offer? since I will more than likely be doing all my upgrades in steps as the money rolls in.[/quote] Savage Beast Performance Package -Performance Camshaft: ... the 3 profiles available are a moderate midrange and higher midrange that I call Stage 1 & Stage 2. Stage 3 is also available, which is a combo of 1&2 with the duration of Stage 1 and the higher lift of Stage 2. The machine work is done by Webcam Inc. which does a Hard Weld cam lobe surface, in business for over 60 years. **Your cam core in exchange is required to make the Performance Camshafts. ($50 core charge otherwise) Shipping cost is included in the price. ($299 ebay/$269 here) -Performance Carburetor Kit: ... Includes 36mm Mikuni VM Performance Carburetor; custom throttle cable by Barnett; new rubber mounting flange; Sudco/Mikuni Carburetor Manual (lots of info on carb theory, tuning, jetting, exploded parts views and part numbers, etc...a virtual carb course); Jet Pak with 4-5 extra pilot jets and 9-10 extra main jets; main jet tool; spark plug; fuel filter. ($429 ebay/$389 here) -Big Bore Kit:...Includes forged high compression piston and bored cylinder to match. The pistons range from 95mm (665cc), 96mm (680cc) & 97mm (695cc). Compression ratio with these pistons is raised from the stock 8.5:1 to 10.5:1. The cylinders are reworked by Bore Tech, and includes boring, honing, silicone carbide treatment to cylinder wall, bead blasted and painted black. The silicone carbide treatment significantly reduces friction and heat which increases power, and cylinder life is increased by a factor of 10X. The larger bore and especially the boost in compression ratio adds a significant increase in power. **Your usable cylinder required ($575 ebay/$525 here) -Reworked Cylinder Head:... Hand lapping of valves (includes new valve stem seals) & intake/exhaust porting to maximize air flow to increase power and efficiency. The head is blasted on the outside and inside the ports as well. $250 If you purchase a head from me ( if available ) then that cost is separate and will be determined based upon the condition of the head. (camshaft is purchased separately) **Higher milage engines often require new or reworked rockers. Rockers can be Hard Welded by Webcam if additional durability is desired. Heavy duty racing valve springs kit with titanium keepers is also available. -Standard Rocker set ($110) -Hard welded rockers ($240) … hard welding only; your usable old rockers required, or purchase of new rockers. -Race valve spring kit ($250) … not recommended for street use.performance dual springs, Titanium retainers, shims -Custom front brake line & throttle/clutch cables. Price varies based on length needed and type of sheath desired. Sheaths can be Black Vinyl, clear coat Stainless Braid. They are made to my specifications by Barnett to match the 3 model year LS650 type of throttle connections and stock or Performance Carburetor used. Contact with spec's desired for a cost estimate. -Heavy Duty Barnett Clutch Pak Set (Friction disc set + springs ) ($125) -Kevlar Front/Rear Brake Set ($85) -Camshaft chain ($110) -Cam chain guide set ($120) -Cam chain adjuster assembly ($75 ) with bolt & clip -Complete Gasket Set ($125) -JETSET ($39.95 ebay/$29.95 here) … #50, 52.5 & 55 pilot jets; #150, 152.5 & 155 main jets; 3 washers to replace the white plastic spacer on the needle; float bowl gasket. Any single or combination of the above Performance Parts will improve efficiency and power, but a better flowing exhaust system is a key factor in maximizing efficiency and performance. A stock LS650 engine makes 30hp at the crank and 25hp at the rear wheel. Expect about 45hp at the rear wheel with the above improvements, along with a good flowing exhaust system. The transformation of the bike is dramatic … it is a totally different animal. |
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Title: Re: Exhaust question Post by Neilap on 05/13/15 at 08:03:39 Alright I saved that information. Thank you LANCER and I believe its safe to say I know someone who will be putting in overtime and someone else who will more than likely be getting money from me Lol |
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