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Message started by HovisPresley on 05/03/15 at 09:19:16

Title: carb...electrical unit?
Post by HovisPresley on 05/03/15 at 09:19:16

Hi folks!
I know this has been covered before but I can't find the thread :(
My Clymer's manual doesn't seem to mention it.
So can I 'pick your brains' to help me identify the small 'thing' that is joined to the right-hand side of my carb, please?
It is next to (what I presume is) the TEV, and has 2 electrical wires coming from it which then disappear under the tank.
The bike is a '96 model, and it's a UK bike (as far as I'm aware).
Many thanks in advance. I hope this picture works .....
http://i520.photobucket.com/albums/w323/unclechickenman/savage-carb_zps0gbfocdq.jpg (http://s520.photobucket.com/user/unclechickenman/media/savage-carb_zps0gbfocdq.jpg.html)

Title: Re: carb...electrical unit?
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 05/03/15 at 10:09:16

It LOOKS like a switch activated by the lever on the shaft so close to it.

Why it's there, beyond me.

Title: Re: carb...electrical unit?
Post by Dave on 05/03/15 at 10:24:30

We had the first forum member show us one of these a few months ago. It is some kind of a switch that activates something when full throttle is applied - but we have no proof of what it does. Speculation is that under full throttle the spark advance would be reduced a bit to prevent detonation....but that is just guessing on our part.

It is not on any US bikes.....only to European countries have weighed in on seeing them on their bikes.

Title: Re: carb...electrical unit?
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 05/03/15 at 10:37:43

That puts you in line to trace the wires and see if you can figure out where they go, which will hopefully tell us what it does.
Id have to get a volt meter and see if either side is hot,
Ohms, is the switch open or closed.
Some are normally open, some, closed, you need to know.
When the lever presses the switch, any number of things could happen.
Voltage applied or removed.
Ground applied or denied.
Denied ground circuits are common. The switch Provides the ground to activate the circuit.
Horns on cars commonly use it. Push the button, create the ground connection.

Title: Re: carb...electrical unit?
Post by HovisPresley on 05/03/15 at 11:15:30

Thanks for the swift replies, gentlemen.

I'm going to remove the tank very soon so that I can: 1. fit the (genuine) Raptor fuel-tap that I bought, and 2. do the "anti-rattle-speedo-mod".
With the tank off, I'll trace the wires back from the 'carb-mystery-device' to see where they go, and I'll test it with my multimeter and post the results.

I'm also thinking of smearing some silicon sealant on the outside of all the electrical connection blocks (where the wires enter) that are under the tank, just to add a bit of waterproofing. Getting caught in the rain is a hobby of us Brits!

Is there anything else that I should consider doing whilst the tank is off?

Many thanks 8-)

Title: Re: carb...electrical unit?
Post by old_rider on 05/03/15 at 14:01:18

Could it be a "throttle limiter or stop"? I know some countries have them for younger riders... just thought I would throw that out there.

Do you have a cycle shop nearby? with an old codger that has been working on them for centuries? LOL.... we have a couple of those in my area here in florida, nice guys even if they look tough!

Title: Re: carb...electrical unit?
Post by Dave on 05/03/15 at 18:42:14

3C3F37213A373621530 wrote:

From the previous thread...it switches something on/off when the throttle is opened fully.

Title: Re: carb...electrical unit?
Post by Dave on 05/03/15 at 18:47:00

04233A253F1C3E293F2029354C0 wrote:

I'm also thinking of smearing some silicon sealant on the outside of all the electrical connection blocks (where the wires enter) that are under the tank, just to add a bit of waterproofing. Getting caught in the rain is a hobby of us Brits!

The wiring harness has a piece of black electrical tape over the boot that covers the connectors. Remove that small piece of tape, pull the boot back, and then take the connectors apart and put the dialectric grease in the female sockets. Then push them back together and slide the boot back over the connector - then be sure to put a new piece of tape to seal the boot to the wiring harness.