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/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Carb work - suggestions /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1422822908 Message started by Tannermac on 02/01/15 at 12:33:43 |
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Title: Carb work - suggestions Post by Tannermac on 02/01/15 at 12:33:43 Hey guys, I have reviewed the threads on the carb work. I have hit 3 issues I'm hoping to get help with. 1 - I can't remove the main jet. The bolt on the end removes but tapping and even pulling with a cable won't remove it. 2 - the float bowl pin won't come out. I halve tried tapping it with a driver on the end and pliers on the head end. Still can't get that out. So I can't check out the valve and pin inside. 3 - the a/f screws head looks like it was stripped from the mechanic visit. This might be the source of my problems. |
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Title: Re: Carb work - suggestions Post by Tannermac on 02/01/15 at 12:36:45 A/f screw |
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Title: Re: Carb work - suggestions Post by Tannermac on 02/01/15 at 12:43:13 Float bowl pin |
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Title: Re: Carb work - suggestions Post by Serowbot on 02/01/15 at 13:34:06 Not sure I'm understanding,.. but I think the "bolt on the end"?... is the main jet... (don't know what cable you are pulling)... :-/... Can't help you get the float pin out, other than to say it does come out,... and do not break the posts that hold it else you'll be buying a new carb... Same with the a/f screw... You may want to have an experienced mechanic look at it... :-?... |
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Title: Re: Carb work - suggestions Post by verslagen1 on 02/01/15 at 13:45:50 05303F3F34233C3032510 wrote:
silly newb, you took the main jet out, the threaded hole is the needle jet. not easy to take out, generally, I leave it in. Quote:
becareful, those posts will snap off. support and tap with a pin punch. Quote:
brass is soft, doesn't take much to chew up the slot like that. if it was driven down too hard, it will stick, have a light touch when turning it closed. |
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Title: Re: Carb work - suggestions Post by Tannermac on 02/01/15 at 13:56:01 Yes indeed this is my first time ever working on a carb. Sorry for my ignorance. 1 - Ok, I thought it was supposed to slide out so you can check all the holes on it. ( I put a wire cable through it and was trying to pull it out.) 2 - Im sure its not crucial for me to remove the floats and clean the float needle at this point but just thought I would ask in case someone else has dealt with this already. 3 - Ill take it in to a mechanic and see if they can get it out. It looks like its past the threading it goes into. I am looking for a replacement screw online but haven't hand any luck yet. Does anyone know what the part number would be for the A/F screw? Thanks for the help guys! |
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Title: Re: Carb work - suggestions Post by 1st2know on 02/01/15 at 14:08:04 1) Knowing how to work on this carb is a valuable skill for LS650 owners, stay with it. 2) Here's a well written tutorial on this carb: http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/Mikuni_BS-CV_Carburetor_Rebuild_Tutorial.pdf 3) There are certain parts of this carb that are expensive to replace. Look up the prices on those those parts so you can know where to take extra care with those parts so you don't break them (examples: slide, carb body and bowl). 4) Death, taxes, and screw extraction. |
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Title: Re: Carb work - suggestions Post by Dave on 02/01/15 at 18:21:16 You removed the main jet.....the part you are trying remove is the jet needle - it get pushed upwards to remove it. Make sure when you put the main jet back in that you also put the washer on it....the washer is what hold the needle jet in the "down" position. Have someone help you get the idle mixture screw out - if it get stuck or goobered up...the carb is junk. If you do get it out and the new one is tight - use a 6x0.50 tap to clean up the corroded threads in the carb body before putting in the new screw. (The new screw should turn in easily). |
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Title: Re: Carb work - suggestions Post by 49mack on 02/02/15 at 11:51:23 The pin that holds the floats in place has a head on one end and splines on the other. Be sure you are tapping on the headless end. I would lay the carb on its' side, soak the headless end of the pin with Kroil, put it under a Tensor lamp or other heat lamp over night - just get it warm, not too hot or the heat could ignite gas fumes. Tap gently with a pin punch while supporting the flange as others have suggested. If it still won't come out, heat the flanges with a soldering gun to expand the flanges and again tap gently. If you break the flange, the carb is toast. Kroil is great stuff (Wal-mart, gun shops). You may have to soak it a few times to get it to budge. Patience is paramount - new or used carbs aren't cheap. Good luck! |
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Title: Re: Carb work - suggestions Post by Tannermac on 03/09/15 at 17:58:08 Well I finally got the A/F screw replaced and the carb back installed. I have a few more things to finalize before putting oil in and giving her a test. Will have it running before the end of the week. My only question would be A/F screw placement. Do you have any specified positioning for this. All the way CW two full CCW ? Or is it more of a test and tune kind of thing? Cheers! |
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Title: Re: Carb work - suggestions Post by Dave on 03/10/15 at 03:20:44 71444B4B4057484446250 wrote:
Although a starting point can be given for the A/F screw - it is something that has to be adjusted for each bike. The altitude, pilot jet and other factors make this screw something that has to be adjusted for each bike. Start at 1.5 turns out from lightly seated....and do what the fellow in this video suggests. Then when you are riding....you might fiddle with it 1/4 each way and see if it makes any difference. If the maximum rpm/smoothness is achieved at settings less than 1 turn out....install a smaller pilot jet - the the maximum rpm/smoothness occurs at more then 2.5 turns out....install a larger pilot jet. Your idle needs to be a bit low for setting this screw, turn the idle speed back up over 1,000 rpm after you have set the mixture. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zm5mB3R8Ucw |
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Title: Re: Carb work - suggestions Post by justin_o_guy2 on 03/10/15 at 03:28:04 Pocket driver, city traffic, minute adjustments at the inevitable red light,, adjustment made in operating conditions.. |
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Title: Re: Carb work - suggestions Post by Tannermac on 03/21/15 at 17:16:07 Sounds good. How do you guys measure the RPM? Being there is no RPM gauge its a bit hard to judge when it wont even start. I have everything back on and she wont start. I am not 100% sure about the idle screw as the carb was removed and they turned it way up at the crappy shop I went to. Now - The carb has been taken apart cleaned up and a new A/F screw put in and I have tweaked it as suggested. - New spark plug - New Air filter - New high octane gas - Battery charged and on a tender - Idle screw set to the obvious wear line - Choke in and out (wont change it starting) - New Oil (after winterizing - Emptied oil, gas, removed petcock cleaned, sanded petcock mounting area as it was leaking gas before - Tried Petcock "on" and on "PRI" - Removed fuel lines and filter cleaned and replaced - All I get from her is a low level woof, like she wants to start but something needs tweaking. I took a video I will try to upload later and link. I dont know if anyone on the board lives on Vancouver Island but I am thinking she just needs some experienced petting. |
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Title: Re: Carb work - suggestions Post by KennyG on 03/21/15 at 17:31:42 Turn the fuel petcock to PRIME and loosen the fuel hose at the carburetor and see if any fuel flows. If you have fuel flowing try to start it again. Kenny G |
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Title: Re: Carb work - suggestions Post by Gary in NJ on 03/21/15 at 17:54:00 Is the sparkplug cap fully seated? When you installed the a/f screw did you go past the initial resistance the happens as the o-ring moves through the chamber. I'd guess that it takes a good 20 turns to get the screw all the way until it fully compresses the spring. If you stopped at the first sign of resistance the screw is too far out to start the bike. |
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Title: Re: Carb work - suggestions Post by Suzukisavvy on 03/23/15 at 07:17:32 Take a flat head screwdriver to the pin on the float on the head of the pin and wedge it beteween the head and the the hole it goes through and push up it'll pop right out. |
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Title: Re: Carb work - suggestions Post by Tannermac on 03/26/15 at 21:22:41 Good point. I'm fairly sure it's too far out then. I usually get it right to when it seems tight then back it out 2.5 ccw. I'll update after it give it a go this weekend. Speak plug should be fine. I'm betting its just tuning of the carb at this point. |
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Title: Re: Carb work - suggestions Post by Gary_in_NJ on 03/27/15 at 05:07:53 45707F7F74637C7072110 wrote:
Do you know with certainty that is the case? A simple spark plug test only takes minutes, but can reduce troubleshooting time by hours or even days. |
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Title: Re: Carb work - suggestions Post by Tannermac on 03/27/15 at 19:00:11 Gary_in_NJ - Ill run a spark plug test but I am fairly sure its working just from the way it sounds when it turns over. Its seems like it just needs some tuning. Your advice is appreciated. Suzukisavvy - I wish I could do that but the head is flattened down over the hole. There is no access to pry it out. |
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Title: Re: Carb work - suggestions Post by Tannermac on 04/03/15 at 18:57:46 So I have had my bike back to the shop for a couple things I just couldn't do. They got it running but I started having fuel come out of the bowl vent #2. Once that starts to happen the bike stutters and dies. I have tapped the bowl area and drained the gas out of it and started fresh. Other then that I am not sure what else to do. The mechanic said I might need a new float assembly although it looked good when he had it apart. Is is possible the float just needs adjustment to the proper height? Thanks, (this feels like a never ending saga) |
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Title: Re: Carb work - suggestions Post by verslagen1 on 04/03/15 at 21:16:49 Quote:
replace is the standard reply for everything, and is probably cheaper for you in the long run. His tinkering time cost money, your tinkering time is free. more than likely, you need a new float valve. |
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