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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> "new" ryca bike /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1422756049 Message started by swing69 on 01/31/15 at 18:00:49 |
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Title: "new" ryca bike Post by swing69 on 01/31/15 at 18:00:49 I have a "new" to me, 06 Ryca S40. Its not finished, but its close. Original owner started the build - #2 owner got it running, as it sits for a year or two. now this is the condition "as bought". Its needs some love for sure, but bones are good. Anyone know THIS bike? Questions: 1) there is no rear brake light switch. How is this handled? OEM switch? repositioned? aftermarket? 2) I think stock, it will not start without the clutch pulled, is this maintained in the Ryca build? 3) foot operated decompression lever is broken. Can a small hand lever be used instead? I'll need some parts: stock headlight, belt cover, maybe a rear stoplight switch? (see question 1). Thanks.......Mike |
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Title: Re: "new" ryca bike Post by LS650THUMPER on 01/31/15 at 18:35:57 Try the rycamotors website, And contact info. 8-) Also try drumhillcycle.com they have used parts. |
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Title: Re: "new" ryca bike Post by justin_o_guy2 on 01/31/15 at 19:42:22 I dunno how stout you are, but I THINK the decompression gizmo requires some horsepower,which could explain the busted linkage. A manual decompression CAN be managed.. neat and tidy.. |
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Title: Re: "new" ryca bike Post by Dave on 02/01/15 at 02:58:13 The stock brake light switch is used - the cable gets mounted in a different way. Go to the RYCA website or YouTube and watch their instruction videos for their CS-1/ I do believe that RYCA maintains the clutch safety in their build. They do offer an alternative wiring change - that eliminates the clutch safety but will only allow the bike to be started in neutral. This is somewhat open to debate......as trying to find neutral when you stall at a traffic light is a bit problematic - it is better to just be able to pull in the clutch and start the bike in a hurry. http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1417551210/3#3 They do make a hand operated lever that mounts on the decompression shaft......I don't know how you are supposed to pull in the clutch with your left hand, and also operate that lever as well with the same hand. If the weather is warm....90% of the time your engine will start just fine without the compression lever being used. Every now and then the engine ends up right at the compression stroke when you hit the starter, and at least with my Wiseco piston that has high compression the starter motor cannot push the piston up over TDC. I made a hand operated lever using a BMX bicycle lever and a cable....it works really well, and with my controls I can pull in the clutch lever and reach the decompression lever with my index finger. Go to reply #170 in my build to see what I did. http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1358099938/165 The RYCA kit has their own belt cover - I don't know if you can use the stock belt covers anymore, as the long rear shocks change the angle of the belt in relation to the swing arm pivot point - the belt is much lower at the pivot point. And lastly....I dunno' what you are planning on doing for a tail light and turn signals - but the stock RYCA CS-1 tail/brake/turn signal combination is not bright enough to keep you safe. In the sunlight the turn signals and brake light won't get the attention of the distracted folks behind you. I believe you need good turn signals and a supplemental brake light. |
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Title: Re: "new" ryca bike Post by Art Webb on 02/01/15 at 09:01:06 I know nothing about the LS650's decomp system, but I've had two GN400s, both used a manual decomp, and both used a hand lever, and you didn't have to hold it open: on this Kickstart only bike, you 1 use the kick lever to get the piston to the compession stroke 2 pull the decomp lever, which will 'click' as it sets the valve open 3 push the kick lever until the decomp klick again 4 reset the kick lever and kick it over there was nothin hard about pulling the lever, it locked into place, so you didn't have to hold it How could the decomp on a savage be all that much harder? it's only 250cc more |
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Title: Re: "new" ryca bike Post by Dave on 02/01/15 at 09:48:47 64777172606767050 wrote:
The Savage is harder because it is not kick start, and you have no choice where the engine is turned when you pull the decompression lever. Sometimes you get lucky and the exhaust valves are open....and you can move the decompression lever in to place with a single finger. However - if the exhaust valves are closed, the lever has to lift both exhaust valves off their seats - which requires pushing against both exhaust valve springs. It take a lot of pressure with the little hand lever they sell that goes on the decompression shaft. |
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Title: Re: "new" ryca bike Post by swing69 on 02/01/15 at 11:29:17 I have had older british singles that the starting routine included nudging it by TDC by holding the compression release and moving the kickstarter. As said, with an electric starter, you don't have the luxury of knowing or changing where it shut off in the stroke process. The clutch kill is still there, so I'll fix the foot operated decompression release and call it a day. where is the RYCA rear brakes switch? |
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Title: Re: "new" ryca bike Post by Dave on 02/01/15 at 18:05:12 4B4F51565F0E01380 wrote:
Same place it is on the stock bike....they just move the cable to work with the relocated brake pedal. And from looking at the photo....you need to buy their new brake stop. It prevents the pedal from rotating up too far and allows you to adjust the rear brake properly. |
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Title: Re: "new" ryca bike Post by justin_o_guy2 on 02/01/15 at 19:29:38 you need to buy their new brake stop. Or build... |
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Title: Re: "new" ryca bike Post by swing69 on 02/01/15 at 20:05:17 Its part of the "finishing" that I need to do. Yes, I need the stop AND another plate bracket, the PO sawed it off. Also: I haven't checked the accuracy of the mini speedo from ryca with the new 18" rear tire. IS it close? I'm thinking about doing a chain conversion....I guess I can make things better? or worse? anyone have experience with this? thanks. I'm learning as I go...... |
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Title: Re: "new" ryca bike Post by justin_o_guy2 on 02/01/15 at 21:02:04 I dunno how long till you get to riding weather, but I'd be shooting to get things done so you can ride as soon as weather permits. You can ditch the belt next winter, or after you're sure that needs done. Maybe you should get a few thousand miles on it before you spend more time and money on it. Learn how to maintain it, get used to it, then Do whatever. |
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Title: Re: "new" ryca bike Post by gizzo on 02/01/15 at 21:21:48 003B3621303C27213A323F20530 wrote:
The Savage is harder because it is not kick start, and you have no choice where the engine is turned when you pull the decompression lever. Sometimes you get lucky and the exhaust valves are open....and you can move the decompression lever in to place with a single finger. However - if the exhaust valves are closed, the lever has to lift both exhaust valves off their seats - which requires pushing against both exhaust valve springs. It take a lot of pressure with the little hand lever they sell that goes on the decompression shaft.[/quote] And I once had a DR500 that also had the little decompressor lever on the handlebar. Like Art Webb's 400, could pull it in quite easily with the piston anywhere on the stroke. Was handly for bump starting while still moving, like if the motor stalled using too much brake going down a steep incline or something. Anyway, my DR250 has the same thing, same thing. Maybe it would work ok on the 650? Looks like this : |
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Title: Re: "new" ryca bike Post by justin_o_guy2 on 02/01/15 at 21:48:16 If you could get a spark plug hole added to the head, isn't that how some of the old dirt bikes installed the compression release? |
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Title: Re: "new" ryca bike Post by gizzo on 02/01/15 at 22:38:49 I've seen that too, JoG. A twin plug head that has a small valve in the spare hole. But the cabbage already has a valve lifter, just needs some way of working it. |
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Title: Re: "new" ryca bike Post by Dave on 02/02/15 at 03:58:07 There are several different systems for "compression release" on engines. Some engines only "reduce" the compression - while still retaining enough compression to allow the engine to start. These systems can be operated by a hand lever - or are sometimes activated by a small movable weight on the camshaft. On the lever systems there is usually a small orifice that allows only a small portion of the exhaust to escape - or there is a little hole part way up the cylinder that is then closed off when the piston passes above the hole. My big chainsaw has a compression release "button" on the top of the cylinder - you push it in and it releases a small amount of compression, and when the engine starts the force of the explosion forces the button into the closed position. For the camshaft operated systems - when the engine is not running the exhaust valve is held open a little longer by a pin or ramp, and by releasing the compression out the exhaust valve for a portion of the compression stroke the compression is reduced.....then when the engine starts the weight moves outward on the cam and the exhaust valves work normally. Most lawn mower engines have this system, and a lot of motorcycles use this camshaft operated system as well....and you don't have to do a thing as it is all automatic. The compression release on the Savage holds the exhaust valves open so far that the engine will never start or run - and the electrical release only functions long enough for the engine to turn over once or twice and build up some momentum to ease the work of the starter. When you remove the electrical system you need a way to hold the exhaust valves just long enough for the starter to turn the engine over to build up some momentum - then you have to release the lever for the engine to make compression and start. The lever up on the handlebars is half of the system....the part down on the engine has to be compatible with the lever. Buying and using the handlebar lever from another bike has some problems. Most of the bikes that use a compression release lever have 7/8" diameter handlebars - while the Savage is a 1" diameter bar. I switched my bike to use 7/8" diameter handlebars, and I tried using a Honda CRF450 clutch lever with a "Hot Start" lever built into it. The 2 problems I ended up with is the clutch lever did not have a long enough pull to get the Savage clutch to release completely, and the Hot Start lever did not have enough leverage to pull the compression release shaft on the Savage. IF the exhaust valves happened to be open when you pulled the lever it worked fine....as the valves were already open and you did not have to lift them off the seats. If the exhaust valves were closed the lever just couldn't be pulled hard enough to overcome the valve spring force to open the valves. http://i61.tinypic.com/21ew93m.jpg I ended up using a BMX bicycle left brake lever, and I had to modify the compression release lever down on the engine to provide a longer lever that provided more leverage and matched the cable pull length of the BMX lever. It also required a new cable mount to move the cable end in line with the longer lever, and I had to build a cable. http://i60.tinypic.com/j61klf.jpg http://i59.tinypic.com/20fcb2c.jpg http://i58.tinypic.com/30rtt38.jpg And now a plug for a future sale. I have found a way to bore the hole in the BMX lever to fit the 1" handlebars, and I am making 5 kits to install this manual compression release. I have not yet established a price, as I need to finish the kits and see how much money and time I have in them. It does take a lot of time....probably about 4 hours for each kit plus parts cost. I had to make all the cable ends, make a holding jig for boring the levers to 1", cut the cables to length and solder the ends on, make the longer levers for the engine, and either make of modify the cable mount (not sure yet which way to go). I have all the parts purchased, the levers have been completed, and I will have the engine related parts and cables finished in about a month. |
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Title: Re: "new" ryca bike Post by Dave on 02/02/15 at 05:16:30 4D4957505908073E0 wrote:
Well their listing says it is designed for the 18" rear wheel...but I dunno' how close it is. If you do the chain conversion to obtain better gearing, the speedometer accuracy will be changed. http://shop.rycamotors.com/mini_speedometer.html |
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Title: Re: "new" ryca bike Post by Gary_in_NJ on 02/02/15 at 07:38:34 Count me in Dave. I've been thinking about a manual comp release as I don't like the RYCA foot solution nor do I want to monkey with the clutch lock-out in the wiring harness. I'd be happy to pay you for doing all of the heavy lifting [ch128516] |
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Title: Re: "new" ryca bike Post by swing69 on 02/02/15 at 07:53:14 Let me know how much Dave...I'm interested too! nice work. |
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Title: Re: "new" ryca bike Post by caseyLA on 02/02/15 at 11:19:53 Just to clarify: The RYCA clutch mod allows the bike to be started in neutral without the clutch engaged. This allows you to reach down with your left hand (while in neutral) and press the manual thumb lever while starting the bike. You can also start the bike in gear by engaging the clutch as usual without pressing the thumb lever (in case you stall at a light). Casey RYCA |
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Title: Re: "new" ryca bike Post by swing69 on 02/02/15 at 12:11:44 Casey; that is assuming that the wiring mod was done per spec. SInce I'm the 3rd owner (previous 2 started and 98% finished the build)....I'm not sure exactly what was done until I start a teardown. I do plan to fully evaluated the mod., and teardown / unwrap / verifiy the build to spec as I go. It also needs to have the spraypaint removed from the rims and the rattle can, matte green reshot professionally. Since there were apparently corners cut during the build., I cannot trust what was done by the POs. Ryca parts I will be needing: R. brake stop, license plate bracket ....and probably more when I get into it. I also need to decide what exta tabs should be removed from the frame. Is there a hardcopy builders instruction book? or one online? thanks |
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Title: Re: "new" ryca bike Post by Dave on 02/03/15 at 03:20:54 3236282F267778410 wrote:
I guess you haven't looked around on the RYCA website very much? You do need to spend some time watching their videos, and reading the instructions. Even if the work is already done - it will help you to know how your bike got converted. RYCA has a page full of the instructions....video and printed. http://www.rycamotors.com/resources/index.html |
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Title: Re: "new" ryca bike Post by swing69 on 02/03/15 at 16:14:29 Dave: found the stuff. Now i have a very tired printer..... lol Good resource. Well thought out conversion. Definitely NOT what you get from most special parts source. Some have no instructions at all. RYCA: good job! |
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Title: Re: "new" ryca bike Post by swing69 on 02/03/15 at 16:16:16 Found a picture and a name to the first owner / builder of mine on the RYCA website. That fills in the gap for me. He's another NJ guy. |
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Title: Re: "new" ryca bike Post by Philmh on 02/03/15 at 16:49:49 Mike, Id love to take a look at the headlight if you are going to revert to stock. PM me and lets chat. |
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Title: Re: "new" ryca bike Post by swing69 on 02/03/15 at 17:14:51 here is the headlight that is on the bike. the first owner cut the top edge back to get rid of the visor effect. Its an ABS jobber. Not very high quality. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-Custom-Black-Bullet-Headlight-Head-Light-Lamp-For-Harley-Davidson-/281509999121?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ASuzuki&hash=item418b4db211&vxp=mtr |
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Title: Re: "new" ryca bike Post by Gary_in_NJ on 02/03/15 at 17:49:42 Hey Swing, I'm also building a RYCA. Let me know if you need some "local" help. |
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Title: Re: "new" ryca bike Post by swing69 on 02/04/15 at 11:39:04 Darn guy must have used the compression release foot lever as a brake lever. Easy enough to do as there is not positive stop on it. It was broken at the bottom threads; the small link up top was bent 20 degrees. I fixed the bottom with a sleeve and silver braze. The top piece snapped when I straightened it. SO...out comes the torch again and another repair. :o The bottom lever pivot was also missing the inner sleeve, so it was on "loose" so it would pivot. Man....not real confidence inspiring..... |
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Title: Re: "new" ryca bike Post by Dave on 02/04/15 at 11:45:42 The top link does have a bit of a bend in it....but not 20 degrees. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LZrAdongjIE&feature=youtu.be |
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Title: Re: "new" ryca bike Post by Art Webb on 02/04/15 at 12:26:32 Man IO like the looks of the RYCAs, especialy the 'standard' kit, but the seat are so thinly padded |
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Title: Re: "new" ryca bike Post by Dave on 02/04/15 at 12:57:49 584B4D4E5C5B5B390 wrote:
Yea....I hope to do something about that. I am taking my seat to Kent Auto Upholstery in Indiana. I am going to get it modified to have some padding that looks a bit like this...without the green and/or the passenger portion. |
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Title: Re: "new" ryca bike Post by justin_o_guy2 on 02/04/15 at 13:00:02 That seat says I have hemorrhoids. |
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Title: Re: "new" ryca bike Post by Dave on 02/04/15 at 13:27:30 4B545255484F7E4E7E46545813210 wrote:
Nope.....Gifted! ;) |
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Title: Re: "new" ryca bike Post by verslagen1 on 02/04/15 at 15:13:48 53686572636F747269616C73000 wrote:
Nope.....Gifted! ;)[/quote] 2 mallets, but only 1 key to play. ;D |
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Title: Re: "new" ryca bike Post by Dave on 02/04/15 at 16:00:51 607364657A7771737827160 wrote:
Nope.....Gifted! ;)[/quote] 2 mallets, but only 1 key to play. ;D[/quote] Jog.....Did we just get a compliment? :-? |
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Title: Re: "new" ryca bike Post by justin_o_guy2 on 02/04/15 at 17:15:54 Well, I don't know,, I still think it says hemorrhoids, but hey, what do I know? |
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Title: Re: "new" ryca bike Post by Art Webb on 02/05/15 at 19:48:02 Racing bicycle saddles have a cutout like that, as riding the old style suppositories is hard on the veins that supply blood to your manly bits don't thing you have to worry about that on a wide moto seat, but it is diferent And yeah I could always add extra padding |
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