SuzukiSavage.com - Print Page

SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl
General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Welding and Transmission Question
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1421202152

Message started by RobSutt on 01/13/15 at 18:22:32

Title: Welding and Transmission Question
Post by RobSutt on 01/13/15 at 18:22:32

The previous owner didn't do me any favors by welding the front sprocket to the engine. See pic below.

So two questions...
1) Is it possible to remove the sprocket and welds so the shaft is clean and usable again? Just don't know anything about welding.
2) If not how involved is replacing this drive shaft? From what I looked up in the parts schematic it seems it would almost equal a tranny rebuild in terms of the labor to get to it.

http://https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-EZt5qtm2qOs/VLXRw4hmdqI/AAAAAAAAAnw/NZ6DUy3GJ1o/w591-h788-no/IMG_0583.JPG

Title: Re: Welding and Transmission Question
Post by paulmarshall on 01/13/15 at 19:57:10

Who ever welded that wants shooting. >:( If you carefully use a cutting wheel on a angle grinder to remove the sprocket and very carefully remove as much weld as possible without damaging the thread. You may be able to use a die from a tap and die set to re-cut the thread.

Title: Re: Welding and Transmission Question
Post by RobSutt on 01/13/15 at 20:41:23

2A3B2F36373B2829323B36365A0 wrote:

Seriously right? Grrr ppl sometimes.

Perhaps the shaft is hardened steel while the weld may be softer. Not sure. I was thinking the same as you suggest as I can grind and tap. Even soften the steel with a torch. Just not a welder, hence the question. Thanks for the suggestion.

Title: Re: Welding and Transmission Question
Post by 12Bravo on 01/13/15 at 21:46:02

It can be repaired, you just have to go slow and pay attention to detail so that the shaft and threads can be saved.

Title: Re: Welding and Transmission Question
Post by Dave on 01/14/15 at 03:34:47

You have to wonder why the sprocket was welded on.....was the shaft already damaged and the splines chewed up?

Careful grinding work may only reveal that the shaft was "toast", and the shaft could have been damaged before the welding occurred.

And yes.......replacing the shaft gets you deep into the bowels of the engine including splitting the cases. You need a puller for the rotor, and a nice big deep socket to remove the flywheel nut.

Also.....the pressure on the spacer and sprocket is what seals the connection so oil does not come out the shaft. It appears the weld does not hold the sprocket on tight enough to make a seal....as it looks like it is covered in oil.

Title: Re: Welding and Transmission Question
Post by koehlerrk on 01/14/15 at 03:48:33

Not only should the welder be knee-capped for welding a sprocket in place, he also did a piss-poor weld to boot!

No, I'm no a welder, but my father is, and I've seen enough good welds to know what they look like... that one is NOT a good weld. The sprocket stays on more by virtue of the boogered up threads than the weld itself.

You might be able to remove the weld and keep the threads intact, but if it was my bike, I'd cut the sprocket off and replace the shaft.

Let us know what you wind up doing.

Title: Re: Welding and Transmission Question
Post by Demin on 01/14/15 at 05:26:23

I'm betting the splines were already shot on the shaft.Probably cheaper to get another bottom end.

Title: Re: Welding and Transmission Question
Post by Dave on 01/14/15 at 09:25:14

Your current engine has low compression, a welded output shaft...who knows what else is wrong.

Maybe you need to make a road trip.....between the two engines you will have enough good parts to make a working engine - and a lot of left over parts to sell and get some money back.
http://ventura.craigslist.org/mcy/4840298554.html

Title: Re: Welding and Transmission Question
Post by verslagen1 on 01/14/15 at 10:07:31

looks to me like another F up.

Quote:

Selling my 1998 Suzuki savage . You can either use it for parts or try and fix it yourself . It doesn't start due to the top end getting no compression . Selling as is besides that there is nothing wrong with it . Have pink slip in hand and tags good Until October great first bike . 33xxx miles on it great commuter rode it daily to work and took it on rides with friends . Asking 800 Obo txt or call

Title: Re: Welding and Transmission Question
Post by Skiprrdog on 01/14/15 at 12:38:11

I am a certified stick, wire and TIG welder, and yes, those are pretty crappy welds, but that actually probably works in your favor. Not sure what he used to weld it, but its a safe bet it is nowhere near as hard as the parts he welded. If it was me, I would take a small angle grinder with a cutoff wheel on it and *carefully* and slowly go in with the blade parallel to the shaft and try to take off some weld, all the way around trying not to hit the threads, take a tap and die and go in as far as you can, rinse and repeat until you are up next to the sprocket. At that point you could probably take a hammer and lightly tap it all the way around, and I would bet it would pop right off. 8-)

Title: Re: Welding and Transmission Question
Post by gizzo on 01/14/15 at 17:16:23

172C2136272B30362D252837440 wrote:

Makes me sick seeing the cheap cheap bikes you guys can buy for almost nothing over there. :'(
What's the bet that CL one stopped working at 33xxx because the chain tensioner jumper out?

Title: Re: Welding and Transmission Question
Post by verslagen1 on 01/14/15 at 20:01:34

4D575351506E5F4C4A4C575A595B3E0 wrote:

Makes me sick seeing the cheap cheap bikes you guys can buy for almost nothing over there. :'(
What's the bet that CL one stopped working at 33xxx because the chain tensioner jumper out?

That's what I'm thinking.

Of course... otherwise it runs fine. :-?