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Message started by Britbiker on 12/18/14 at 10:24:00

Title: Engine paint.
Post by Britbiker on 12/18/14 at 10:24:00

Hi Gentlemen.
Summer is long gone and it's time for a full teardown. 89 Savage with 27000 miles on it, runs well but is rough to look at and camchain noisy. Engine will be fully stripped down to the crank cases and painted. (Checked the camchain adjuster, screamed and put the cover back on quick, no more revs till chain and adjuster replaced.)
Reviews on the web show lots of reputable engine paints that have apparently failed, but I think most of that is down to amateur prep so the reviews may be inaccurate.
I'll strip the old paint off with Scotchbrite rather than put anything caustic on the ally before paint, lot's of elbow grease and a final wash over with acetone, then.......... Which paint?? VHT? POR?
What have you used that LASTED ? I'm not looking to strip it annually to repaint once it's done. All advice appreciated. Bb.

Title: Re: Engine paint.
Post by KennyG on 12/18/14 at 10:54:30

Brit,

I have had really good luck with paint sticking to a surface that has been scrubbed with hot soapy water and then left to dry. After letting it sit over night in a warm place I bead blast the parts.

Paint really sticks to guns, motorcycles and tools using this procedure.

Kenny G

Title: Re: Engine paint.
Post by Dave on 12/18/14 at 12:09:13

The factory paint is very tough, and will be nearly impossible to remove with a Scotchbrite pad. However....that same toughness might be a good foundation and primer for the paint you are going to use. If you first clean the engine very well to remove grease and oil, then Scotchbrite to remove the shine from the factory paint - the new paint most likely will stick really well.

If you want to remove the factory paint, here in the US you could go to the auto paint stores and buy AirCraft Stripper. It works very well and when used as directed it does not harm aluminum. Then you will need to do a thorough scrubbing, Scotchbrite pad to give the paint a good surface to adhere to, and then a good tough engine paint. The cylinder head on mine only seldom gets up to 300 degrees in the summer....so you don't need paint that can withstand 2,000 degrees. If you can find an epoxy paint that would be best....the spray can paints do not resist any fuel spills or drips.

You might try to clean up the existing paint as best you can.....you will never be able to get anything out of a spray can that will be as durable as the original paint.

Title: Re: Engine paint.
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 12/18/14 at 22:36:32

Unless the tensioner is damaged, all Ya need is a Verslavy.. well,at 27k,, a chain makes sense.But, putting a New,stock,tensioner in? I wouldn't.

Title: Re: Engine paint.
Post by Britbiker on 12/19/14 at 04:56:28

Appreciate the advice about the Verslavy tensioner but I have a new adjuster and chain already, 90 GBP. ($135? ish)
I know of the design weakness and can play with modding the old adjuster for when the new chain exhibits wear or stretch. All respect to Verslavy and I'd never begrudge a guy a wage, but the two way shipping and then we usually get whipped for Import duty as well..... Expensive!! :o

Title: Re: Engine paint.
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 12/19/14 at 12:32:01

Yeah,had not noticed that you're Over There... getting your old one fixed up to take up the slack would be the way to go... Well, I guess you could move West,

Title: Re: Engine paint.
Post by ss652 on 12/23/14 at 13:20:28

Hi Brit. POR15 I believe has been tamed due to EU restrictions and isn't as good as it used to be. It's difficult to get hold of the old stuff now. I've heard good things about both Halfords engine enamel and B&Q bbqpaint for engines.

Title: Re: Engine paint.
Post by prechermike on 12/29/14 at 04:01:45

Just my $0.02. I painted the chrome head cover things black with high temp paint, as I was told to do. Used a Scotchbright pad to rough them up pretty good, put on a few coats of the black paint, let it all dry, out them on the bike and they looked pretty good, if I do say so myself. I got caught in a little rain not too long ago and the rain seemed to blister or pop the paint off, just in specks, like where the drops were. The paint didn't come off the whole things, just spots. I'm wondering if the covers didn't get hot enough to cure the paint and regular paint would have done the trick or there is something else going on. Anyway, they don't look so good now. But they are hard to see when I am riding anyway.

Title: Re: Engine paint.
Post by Dave on 12/29/14 at 04:47:30

3B392E28232E392622202E4B0 wrote:

I got caught in a little rain not too long ago and the rain seemed to blister or pop the paint off, just in specks, like where the drops were. The paint didn't come off the whole things, just spots.

The problem with all high heat paints seems to occur with rain or water hitting the surface. The heating/cooling cycles seem to make small cracks in the paint, and water can then get in the cracks and cause problems. I had a car with tube headers back in the 70's, and the paint always held up well.....until I drove the car in the rain a few times.

I also feel that you can't get paint to stick well to chrome. Take a belt sander and strip off the chrome....or get them sandblasted next time you paint them and I bet the paint will stick better. The head only gets up to 300 degrees and most engine paints will work fine on the head cover caps....or you can get them powder coated. You don't need the 2,000 degree ceramic paint on the head cover caps.