|
SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> stripping engine paint /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1408447242 Message started by Jsud04 on 08/19/14 at 04:20:42 |
|
Title: stripping engine paint Post by Jsud04 on 08/19/14 at 04:20:42 I need to strip the paint off of my engine. Currently I have the jug and head off for boring and valve work, so no issues there, then I have the sides off for brushing, so that leaves the case...I am not pulling the tranny cover. So what I need to accomplish is stripping the paint from the case without penetrating my center gasket...odviously the engine is not on the bike... Any ideas, will MKE substitute dissolve the case gasket? |
|
Title: Re: stripping engine paint Post by Dave on 08/19/14 at 05:19:00 Stripping the paint off the center case will be a huge job. The paint/powder coat is very durable and will not come off easy. The aluminum underneath is not very durable and will have to have some kind of a coating or it will oxidize very quickly. I have polished my outer cases, wheel hubs and other aluminum parts - and they need to be polished regularly to keep them looking good. On my next set of wheel hubs I am going probably going to clear coat the center of the hubs.....as it is difficult to get in there and keep it polished. For the center seam....if you are painting again I would probably not use any stripper there. I would suggest you strip up near the seam, and then sand the existing paint off the seam. Any kind of stripper or solvent could compromise the sealant. And if you are painting...then maybe you don't need to strip as the existing paint could work as a good base if you clean, sand or Scotch Bright the paint to remove the gloss, and then clean really well before you paint (careful with the solvent on the center seam). Dave |
|
Title: Re: stripping engine paint Post by Jsud04 on 08/19/14 at 06:09:28 OK. So. I stripped the paint off of the covers, someone had painted them, do ya think aluminum wheel clear coat would be a good idea, I believe its heat resistance to 600 degrees. I'll just sratch up and paint the case with engine block paint. |
|
Title: Re: stripping engine paint Post by Dave on 08/19/14 at 08:41:34 My engine side cases are not coated with anything - and I like it that way. But I could not imagine trying to do that to the center case. About once a month I have to polish them, and I am OK with that. I ride in the dry most of the time, I ride in the rain when I get caught in it, the bike is stored inside and kept dry. My dog is a drooler and shoock her head and put some spit on the polished cases....and it etched the shiny aluminum! :o You can clear coat the brushed or polished alumium - Eastwood makes some products, wheel coat might work if it can take 300+/- degrees, clear engine enamel might work, clear powder coat may work as well. The factory clear coat is not all that durable as a lot of us have found out. Dave |
|
Title: Re: stripping engine paint Post by Jsud04 on 08/19/14 at 08:57:47 Did you paint that case in the photo? |
|
Title: Re: stripping engine paint Post by Dave on 08/19/14 at 09:04:26 6A5355444552531014200 wrote:
Nope.....factory engine paint with only 1,200 miles on the engine. Dave |
|
Title: Re: stripping engine paint Post by Spamy on 08/19/14 at 09:33:00 Ive clear coated all my polished aluminum parts. A good 2 part automotive clear is best. 2k rattle can works great. Duplicolor or the wheel paint will work also. Just gas will make it peel and oil overtime will discolor it. It also doesnt stick as well, so it has to be prepped well. Additionally it will make the polished surface look a bit different, no so polished, but still very nice. Ive always clear coated my parts like this and it works great. Especially on wheel hubs where its a serious pain to come back and polish. Ive got some dirt bike hubs that look great after 10 years of abuse and minor maintenance. By the way, after polishing to a nice shine. I do a lacquer thinner scrub to ensure there are no residues before painting. Thats my solution of choice and has worked great. On other motors Ive done the cases also. Its come out ok. Ive used paint stripper and gasket remover to remove the paint. The gasket remover works amazingly well for some finishes. But obviously it will eat gaskets too. My opinion is that if you split the cases it may be worth it, if the case is intact, Im not sure I would do it. Too much rolling around a heavy case in awkward positions to get it polished out. |
|
Title: Re: stripping engine paint Post by Jsud04 on 08/19/14 at 09:39:39 Thanks. Its been painted with silver engine paint by a po and some spots are flaked due to some corrosion ... So I am likely gonna scrub it down with soap water and an Scotch pad and giver the old black rattle job... |
|
Title: Re: stripping engine paint Post by Dave on 08/19/14 at 10:00:28 4467767A6E170 wrote:
Nice to know the two part clear will hold up on aluminum. I am currently polishing some wheel hubs....and was trying to figure out what to do with the center. Clear coat.....or powder coat chrome or clear. The center holds up OK on my bike as it is not outside in foul weather too much - but it does require polishing often. Dave |
|
Title: Re: stripping engine paint Post by rapfohl on 08/19/14 at 14:26:42 Dave, how do you go about doing your "polishing"? I would like to do the same thing this winter, as my covers are looking a little sad and nasty. |
|
Title: Re: stripping engine paint Post by Dave on 08/21/14 at 03:45:05 74677660696E6A060 wrote:
I should do a write up.....but in a nutshell. 1) Take the parts off the engine. 2) Strip the clear coat off using a real paint stripper from an auto paint supply store. Something like Tal Strip or the Aircraft stripper. The stuff you get at Lowe's and Home Depot won't work. 3) Wet sand the parts to get rid of the corrosion or nicks and scrapes. You can start with 360 on the bad spots.....or even 240 if the pitting is bad. Don't sand the smooth parts with the rough paper as it will make scratches you have to sand out later. Then go to progressively finer grits. The paper wears out pretty quick so you will have to change the paper often - I use pieces about half the size of a dollar bill. If the parts are smooth start with 400 and work down to 600 grit. At this point you can start buffing if you have a good bench mounted buffing wheel - and it will take about 1 hour each case to do a really good job. If you are doing this by hand than you keep sanding with finer grits until you get down to 1,000 or more. Then you can start buffing the aluminum with rags and a metal polish. Meguires makes one that is a fast cut and it comes in a tube - then a fine grit that is in a little tub. Flitz, Simi-chrome and similar products work fine for the final polish. Dave |
|
Title: Re: stripping engine paint Post by justin_o_guy2 on 08/21/14 at 08:09:16 I used 3M green scrubbing pads on a little palm sized orbital and kept alite Mist of water on the piece. Gave it a nice finish.not mirror,looked stock.But,if a guy wanted to go full on polished,that's a great start. The oxidation lines are polished off. |
|
Title: Re: stripping engine paint Post by Spamy on 08/21/14 at 12:52:35 Ive used this kit several times and it works pretty dang good for the price. If you dont have a buffer, but have a drill, its great. http://www.harborfreight.com/14-piece-aluminum-polishing-kit-98707.html |
|
Title: Re: stripping engine paint Post by Srotag on 08/22/14 at 11:25:58 To paint the case since you have to, take a look at POR15. I have brushed it on high temp coolant pipes and it flows smoothly, and has glass like finish when dry. It would make a very nice look. IMO |
|
SuzukiSavage.com » Powered by YaBB 2.2! YaBB © 2000-2007. All Rights Reserved. |