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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> drive splines and pulley /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1406924942 Message started by Jsud04 on 08/01/14 at 13:29:00 |
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Title: drive splines and pulley Post by Jsud04 on 08/01/14 at 13:29:00 So I was reading and looking. I am rebuilding my top end and looked over the drive splines. The bolt was loose when I got it from the po and the pulley has play when I slip it on but once I thighten it down it seems fine and makes no noise. 20000 miles...so the question is are the photos of my spline and pully much to worry about? Seems to run fine when the bolts really tight.. http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y517/jsuders04/savage/IMG_20140801_161349_032_zpsbo92gb4r.jpg |
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Title: Re: drive splines and pulley Post by Serowbot on 08/01/14 at 14:09:33 "You want the truth?.... You can't handle the truth"... :-?... Honestly,... once it has some wear. it will continue to wear, due to the ability to now move forward and back on accel and decel... .. like a little jackhammer every start and stop... I think Oldfeller has tried some JBWeld in the splines... (somebody did)... Never heard if it worked... At least... put some locktite on it and be alert for the loose sound... Mine was loosening every 6 months of so... 'till I bought a new washer, tightened it with an impact wrench, and used locktite... it's been quiet for over a year now... There's no good fix, that I know of... just keep it tight.. and hope for the best... |
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Title: Re: drive splines and pulley Post by Jsud04 on 08/01/14 at 14:24:45 Is it worth me splitting the case at this point and Putin new spline in or buying a pulley? Or does it look like is got some life? I have the top end off and of hate to put it ogeather just to take it apart in 1000 miles... |
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Title: Re: drive splines and pulley Post by Serowbot on 08/01/14 at 14:32:35 That's for you to decide,.. based on your experience... New spline shaft, pulley, plus gaskets will cost a $100 or $200... ... and you might booger the assembly (I would)... I would never attempt it... if mine goes, I'll locate a low mile engine and start over with newer everything... JMHO... I'd make it super tight and keep an eye out... if the splines wear too much, have it welded in place...(you'll never be able to get the belt off from that point, but it can last 100k miles)... Then, when the belt finally goes, just buy a new engine... It ain't the right thing... it's just what I'd do... :-/... PS.. I can't remember if you have to remove the pulley to replace the stator... Anybody?... PSS.. actually,.. you could replace the belt,... by grinding away about 30% of the outer pulley edge... just enough to get the belt past the stator cover case... not sure if that would be too much to keep the belt in place for use... but it might stay... might be fine... |
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Title: Re: drive splines and pulley Post by Jsud04 on 08/01/14 at 15:28:16 I did pull the stator cover off by accident I didn't realize that I didn't need to should I replace the stator now with just twenty thousand miles on it? |
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Title: Re: drive splines and pulley Post by verslagen1 on 08/01/14 at 15:31:46 There was someone on here that tried to replace the output shaft once. She was a newb to the savage, but game enough to try, so musta had some skills. Don't know if she picked up the wrong shaft thru incompetence of the seller or just inscrutable mods to the tranny to make most years incompatible with others. but the one she got didn't fit the one she had. The last I recall OF doing was a RTV filler, I don't think anyone has done a proper JBweld fill. You'd have to have a pretty bad gap for jbweld to work. and getting it in there consistently aint gonna be easy. and won't be any more removable then welding. I'd want to pressure feed it into the splines. My thought was to grind a groove in the middle of the gear cutting thru all the splines of the pulley. then drill and tap a hole from the outside to the groove. slip the pulley on the shaft, fill the hole with JB and force it with a bolt into the pulley till it shot out the splines. Put the nut on tighten as required. To get it off, use a torch to burn out the JBweld. |
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Title: Re: drive splines and pulley Post by Jsud04 on 08/01/14 at 15:35:22 But that's a last resort like won't tighten anymore right? |
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Title: Re: drive splines and pulley Post by Seaweednh on 08/01/14 at 16:13:44 I haven't had first hand experience with this particular engine but.... most pulleys are made of a milder steel than the shaft. If the majority of the wear is in the pulley, I would buy a new pulley. This may take care of your problem. As for the photo, not as clear as I'd like to see it but from what I could see, it didn't look bad. |
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Title: Re: drive splines and pulley Post by Steve H on 08/01/14 at 16:49:57 Yes, you can remove the stator with the pulley in place. At least you can on an '87. |
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Title: Re: drive splines and pulley Post by oldNslow on 08/01/14 at 16:54:25 Quote:
I second Steve H. My Clymers says that the pulley has to come off, but when I polished and re-clearcoated the stator cover on my '06 I got it off without touching the pulley with no problem. |
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Title: Re: drive splines and pulley Post by Dave on 08/01/14 at 19:26:57 Well, I would suggest you clean everything to remove the grease and oil including the nut. Then apply permanent thread locker on the shaft, pulley and nut, and assemble everything to the maximum torque value. Then crimp a new genuine Suzuki lock nut with not just one...but two bends of the washer up onto the nut.....then go riding and don't worry about it anymore. You have done what you can.....it will either hold for a very long time....or it won't. There is a fellow that posted a listing in the Marketplace for a 5 speed bottom end where he has installed a new output shaft as he boogered one up - but he just went ahead and got a new engine anyhow. You could get that for a backup...just in case. Dave |
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Title: Re: drive splines and pulley Post by Jsud04 on 08/01/14 at 20:18:31 OK two more quick questions... Should I replace the can chain tensioner slides when I do the new chain or reuse em? And when I took the head off the gasket was two metallic pieces...what's that about? |
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Title: Re: drive splines and pulley Post by Dave on 08/02/14 at 04:29:47 I don't think you need to replace the plastic slides at 20,000 miles....maybe when you replace the chain at 40,000 miles. If you are talking about 2 little metal tube like pieces....those locate the head cover precisely so it is in the proper place when you put it back together. Every machined casting on the bike will have 2 of those.....or two pins......they are important - but them back on when you assemble it again. Dave |
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Title: Re: drive splines and pulley Post by Jsud04 on 08/02/14 at 04:42:49 Eh I am replacing the chain now cuz its well stretched, and I'm talking about the gasket itselfnwas metal with guest between em. |
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Title: Re: drive splines and pulley Post by Dave on 08/02/14 at 04:50:45 Yep, the head gasket is layers of metal and goo. |
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Title: Re: drive splines and pulley Post by Seaweednh on 08/02/14 at 05:09:26 4F7670616077763531050 wrote:
If you are referring to the head gasket, that is how the are made so that not only do they seal the compression but the oil passage as well (on water cooled engines the water passage to) |
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Title: Re: drive splines and pulley Post by Jsud04 on 08/02/14 at 05:25:36 Good deal |
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Title: Re: drive splines and pulley Post by engineer on 08/02/14 at 06:41:19 First, buy a new pulley like Seaweednh said along with a new washer. The new pulley will account for the greatest amount of wear (slack) in the fit up between your pulley and shaft splines. Secondly, take out the rest of the slack with a product known as bearing mount. Not all Loctite is created equal. Here is a link to a product guide with some instructions. http://www.loctite.ph/php/content_data/LT4680.pdf You'll need a thread locker for the nut but a bearing mount product for the splines on the shaft. Bearing mount is intended to fill gaps for radial loading and not the straight on hammering you get in a spline but it will fill in the gap and until it breaks down will prevent the hammering action of spline against spline. I have seen bearing mount used very effectively in a number of similar situations. But, to give it a decent chance of being a permanent repair, get that new pulley. |
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Title: Re: drive splines and pulley Post by Serowbot on 08/02/14 at 07:32:09 Huh,... never heard of this stuff before... :-?... http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-20297-Bearing-Mount-Parts/dp/B000HBM8FW http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/518YKPGQT5L.jpg |
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Title: Re: drive splines and pulley Post by Seaweednh on 08/02/14 at 08:39:49 6375627F67727F64100 wrote:
A first for me as well but you it won't be long before I have some. |
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